Report on the Dominion Government Expedition to Hudson Bay and the Arctic Islands on board the D.G.S. Neptune, 1903-1904

Sir,—I have the honour to submit herewith my report on the expedition to Hudson Bay and northward thereof, in the steamship Neptune; to which, on your kind recommendation, I was appointed officer in charge by a commission authorized under an order in council of August 13, 1903.

Permit me to here acknowledge the kindly and valuable assistance afforded me by Colonel F. Gourdeau, Deputy Minister of the Department of Marine and Fisheries, by Commander G. O. V. Spain, and by all the officers of the department at Ottawa and Halifax, with whom it was my duty and privilege to work.

The greater part of the credit for the complete and successful accomplishment of all the instructions for the voyage is due to Captain S. W. Bartlett, the officers and the crew of the Neptune. Their prompt and cheerful attention to orders and their willing co-operation in all matters relating to the expedition deserve the highest praise.

I have great pleasure in calling attention to the valuable work of the scientific staff of the expedition. Dr. L. E. Borden, by his skill and attention, kept everybody in a good general state of health, and in addition rendered great assistance in the collection of specimens and data relating to ethnology, botany and zoology. Mr. Andrew Halkett, Naturalist of the Department of Marine and Fisheries, was indefatigable in the work of collecting specimens in all branches of natural history. Mr. C. F. King, who was attached from the staff of the Geological Survey, took charge in an able manner of the topographical work, and was willingly assisted by Messrs. Caldwell and Ross and by the officers of the ship.

In the preparation of this report, I have received much valuable assistance from Dr. Robert Bell, Acting Director of the Geological Survey, who has not only helped personally, but who also kindly allowed the very necessary assistance of the following members of the staff of that department: Mr. J. M. Macoun, who named and described the plants in the collections brought home; Mr. L. Lambe and Dr. H. M. Ami, who determined and named the collections of fossils, and Mr. F. Nicolas, who kindly edited the report and prepared the index to it. The map which accompanies the report was prepared under the direction of Mr. C. O. SenÉcal by Messrs. C. F. King and P. Frereault.

My thanks are due to Mr. W. McMahon, Superintendent of Printing, for his kindly advice and assistance in the publication of this report, and it is entirely due to him that the volume presents its creditable appearance.

I have the honour to be, sir,

Your humble servant,

A. P. LOW.

MINTO.

CANADA.

Edward the Seventh, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and of the British Dominions beyond the Seas, King, Defender of the Faith, Emperor of India, etc.

To Albert Peter Low, of the City of Ottawa, in the Province of Ontario, in our Dominion of Canada, Esquire,—

Greeting:

E. L. Newcombe,

Deputy of the Minister of Justice,

Canada.

Know you that reposing trust and confidence in your loyalty, integrity and ability, We have constituted and appointed, and We do hereby constitute and appoint you the said Albert Peter Low to be officer in charge of the expedition to Hudson Bay and northward thereof in the Steamship Neptune,—

To have, hold, exercise and enjoy the said office of officer in charge of the expedition to Hudson Bay and northward thereof in the Steamship Neptune unto you the said Albert Peter Low, with all and every the powers, rights, authority, privileges, profits, emoluments and advantages unto the said office of right and by law appertaining during pleasure.

In Testimony Whereof, We have caused these Our Letters to be made Patent, and the Great Seal of Canada to be hereunto affixed. Witness, Our Right Trusty and Well-beloved Cousin and Councillor the Right Honourable Sir Gilbert John Elliot, Earl of Minto and Viscount Melgund of Melgund, County of Forfar, in the Peerage of the United Kingdom, Baron Minto of Minto, County of Roxburgh, in the Peerage of Great Britain, Baronet of Nova Scotia, Knight Grand Cross of Our Most Distinguished Order of St. Michael and Saint George, etc., etc., Governor General of Canada.

At Our Government House, in Our City of Ottawa, this Thirteenth day of August, in the year of Our Lord one thousand nine hundred and three, and in the third year of Our Reign.

By Command,

P. PELLETIER,

Acting Under Secretary of State.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO THE BAY.
Introductory—Preparations—The Neptune—The Crew—Coast of Labrador—Port Burwell—Cumberland Gulf—Hudson Strait—Walrus Hunting—Hudson Bay—West Coast of Hudson Bay—Chesterfield Inlet—Arrival at Fullerton	1

CHAPTER II.
WINTER QUARTERS AT FULLERTON.
Fullerton Harbour—Preparations for Winter—Natives—Amusement and Work—Spring Explorations—Mr. Caldwell’s Trip to Wager Inlet—Surveys about Fullerton—Exploration of Coast to Chesterfield Inlet—Trip in Whaleboats to Southampton Island	25

CHAPTER III.
SUMMER CRUISE OF THE NEPTUNE.
Fisher Strait—Ice in Hudson Strait—Supply Ship at Port Burwell—Voyage North—North Greenland Coast—Parker Snow Bay—Smith Sound—Crossing to Cape Sabine—Peary’s Headquarters—Neptune on the Rocks—Taking Possession of Ellesmere Island—East Coast of Ellesmere—Lancaster Sound—Franklin’s Headquarters at Beechey Island—Record of the Gjoa—Port Leopold—Ponds Inlet—Natives—Arctic Salmon—Baffin Bay—Cumberland Gulf—Wakeham Bay—Sugluk Bay—Salisbury Island—Voyage Home	35

CHAPTER IV.
HISTORICAL SUMMARY.
Frobisher—Davis—Weymouth—Knight—Hudson—Button—Baffin—Munck—Fox and James—Hudson’s Bay Company—Knight—Middleton and Dobbs—Hearne—Ross and Parry—Parry and Liddon—Parry and Lyon—Franklin—Ross—Back—Dease and Simpson—Rae—Franklin and Crozier—The Franklin Search—Kane—Hayes—Hall—Nares—Markham—Greely—Nansen—Peary—Sverdrup	71

CHAPTER V.
ARCTIC ISLANDS.
Divisions—Physical Features dependant upon Geology—Islands of Hudson Bay—Baffin and Bylot Islands—Islands south of Lancaster Sound—Ellesmere—North Devon—The Parry Islands—The Sverdrup Islands	112

CHAPTER VI.
ESKIMOS.
The Central Eskimos—Annual Routine—Winter Months—Snowhouses—Cooking Utensils—Dog Sled—Dogs—Seal Hunting—Seal Spear—Foxes—Trade—Spring Occupations—Summer—Summer Tent—Kyak—Umiak—Harpoon—Caribou Hunting	131

CHAPTER VII.
ESKIMOS—Continued.
Manners and Customs—Government—Marriage and Divorce—Murder—Death—Burial—Superstitions and Beliefs—The Goddess Nuliavok—Origin of Races—Future State—Taboos—The Angekok—Amusements—Garments—Adornments—Moral Characteristics	162

CHAPTER VIII.
GEOLOGY.
Sources of Information—Succession of the Rocks—Earth Movements—ArchÆan Backbone—Silurian Sea—Devonian and Carboniferous Uplift—Mesozoic and Miocene Tertiary—The Glacial Period—Details of Geology—ArchÆan—Hudson Bay, Baffin Island, Islands of Group III., Ellesmere and North Devon Islands	183

CHAPTER IX.
GEOLOGY—Continued.
Silurian—West Coast of Hudson Bay, Baffin Island, Islands of Group III., Northeast Part of Ellesmere, Jones Sound, North Devon Island, Devonian. Carboniferous—Parry Island, Coal, Ellesmere Island. Mesozoic—Parry and Sverdrup Islands. Tertiary—Banks Island, Ellesmere Island, Coal, Baffin Island. Glacial—Distribution of Boulders—Ice Movements—Hudson Strait, West Coast of Hudson Bay, Labrador, Greatest Intensity of Ice-cap—Marine Terraces. Economic Minerals Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Mica, Graphite, Molybdenite, Lignite and Coal	210

CHAPTER X.
WHALING.
History—The Whaling Fleet—Whaling in Davis Strait and Baffin Bay—Whaling in Hudson Bay—The Right Whale—Whalebone—Scottish Whalers—Ships and Methods—American Whalers—Ships, Crews and Methods—Whaleboats—Spring Whaling—Whaling Stations—Future of the Industry—Other Whales—Porpoises—The Seals—Walrus	248

CHAPTER XI.
NAVIGATION OF HUDSON BAY.
Need of Hudson Bay Route—Historical—Navigation of Hudson Strait—Navigation in Hudson Bay—Ports—Currents—Ice from Davis Strait—Ice in Hudson Bay—Period of Navigation—Sailing Directions—Trade—Natural Resources—Advantages of Hudson Bay Route—Storage of Grain—Railway	283

APPENDIX I.
Meteorological Observations taken on the Neptune	300

APPENDIX II.
List of Birds and Eggs collected on the Voyage	314

APPENDIX III.
List of Plants collected in 1904	320

APPENDIX IV.
Notes on the Fossils collected on the Voyage	322

APPENDIX V.
List of the principal Works and Papers consulted in the Preparation of the Report	337

APPENDIX VI.
Notes on the Physical Condition of the Eskimos	343

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

	Page.
The Chief of the Aivillingmiut	Frontispiece
A Davis Strait Iceberg	1
Neptune and Era, Fullerton harbour	4
Crew of the Neptune in winter costume	6
Head of Nachvak bay, Labrador	8
Port Burwell at eastern entrance to Hudson strait	10
Blacklead island, Cumberland gulf	12
Kekerten harbour, Cumberland gulf	14
Walrus in Smith Sound	16
Fullerton harbour	18
Wreck camp, Chesterfield inlet	22
Neptune in winter quarters	24
Southampton island	25
Snowhouses on ice near Neptune	28
Hauling the winter water supply	30
Mr. Caldwell starting North	32
American Whaleboats in Roes Welcome	34
A Greenland Iceberg	35
Midnight in Smith sound	36
Ice off Cape Wolstenholme	40
Parker Snow bay, North Greenland	42
A Glacier of Bylot island	44
Cape Herschel, Ellesmere island	46
Franklin Monument at Beechey island	52
Provisions left for the Gjoa at Port Leopold	54
Cliffs of Bylot island	58
Eskimo Encampment at Ponds inlet	60
Women’s Boat at Wakeham bay	64
South coast of North Devon island	71
At Beechey island	96
Frenchman Cove, Cyrus Field bay	112
Head of Cyrus Field bay, Baffin island	120
Shore of Cumberland gulf from Blacklead island	122
Kenipitu from Chesterfield inlet	130
Lower Encampment, Chesterfield inlet	131
Eskimos at Blacklead, Cumberland gulf	136
Aivillik Women at Fullerton	140
Snowhouses at Fullerton	142
Interior of Snowhouse at Fullerton	144
Loaded Sleds from Chesterfield inlet	146
A Small Team and a Heavy Load	148
Interior of Snowhouse at Fullerton	150
Eskimo kyak off Cape Haven	154
Summer Tents at Wakeham bay	158
At Ponds inlet	162
Aivillik Woman in gala dress	168
Nechillik Woman	170
Kenipitu Belles at Fullerton	176
Kenipitu Woman in winter dress	178
Upper Encampment, Chesterfield inlet	183
Contorted Gneiss and Granite at Fullerton	196
Cape Haven harbour	202
Scottish Whalers in Ponds inlet	210
Limestone Cliffs of North Devon island	220
Scottish Whaler Eclipse	248
Crew of the American Whaler Era	250
Bundles of whalebone on the Era	260
Preparing for Spring Whaling	264
Whaleboats on the ice, in Roes Welcome	268
Scottish whaling station at Blacklead island	270
The Launch	283
Rafted Ice in Roes Welcome, June, 1904	290
Ice in Cumberland gulf, September, 1904	292

SHIP’S COMPANY.

SCIENTIFIC STAFF.

A. P. Low, Commander and Geologist.

L. E. Borden, M.D., Surgeon and Botanist.

G. B. Faribault, M.D., Assistant-Surgeon.

A. Halkett, Naturalist.

C. F. King, Topographer and Meteorologist.

G. F. Caldwell, Photographer.

OFFICERS AND CREW.

S. W. Bartlett, Master.		W. Babstock,	Seaman.
J. Hearn, First Mate.		F. Kearny,	”
M. Bartlett, Second Mate.		W. Crossman, First Engineer.
L. Guay, Third Mate.		J. Crossman, Second Engineer.
W. Aldred, Cook.		S. Bruchett, Third Engineer.
J. Harding, Second Cook.		J. Killey,	Fireman.
H. Borgle, Steward.		A. Romaine,	”
D. Tierney, Second Steward.		M. Baldwin,	”
M. Ross, Purser.		F. Froude,	”
M. Ryan, Carpenter.		G. Willis,	”
C. King, Boatswain.		J. Rousseau,	Boy.
J. Clark,	Seaman.	L. Deschesneau,	”
J. Murphy,	”	E. Bourque,	”
C. Pomeroy,	”	J. Gouin,	”
F. Wells,	”	F. O’Connell,	”

NORTH-WEST MOUNTED POLICE.

Major J. D. Moodie, Acting Commissioner.
Staff Sergeant Dee.
Constable Tremaine.
”	Jarvis.
”	Connelly.
”	Donaldson.

H. Ford, who had served as Eskimo interpreter on the Diana in 1896, was again engaged in that capacity, at Port Burwell, on the way north.

A Davis Strait Iceberg.

CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO THE BAY

The present report contains a narrative of the voyage of the D.G.S. Neptune, during the seasons 1903-04, to the northern parts of Hudson bay, and to the northeastern Arctic islands. Following this, under their respective headings, are a short historical account of earlier explorations and discoveries in northeastern Arctic America; a geographical sketch, together with summaries of what is at present known of the inhabitants and geology of the unorganized northeastern territories of the Dominion; short descriptions of the important whaling and sealing industries; and opinions as to the possible navigation of Hudson strait and Hudson bay.

The appendices contain the meteorological observations taken on the voyage, interesting notes on the thickness and growth of the ice; also lists of the birds, plants and fossils collected in these northern regions. All the collections, except that of the marine invertebrates, have been fully determined. The amount of new material in the latter required greater time for study than could be given before the publication of this report, and the results will be included in a future publication.

This report is based largely upon the knowledge obtained, during the voyage, by the scientific staff of the expedition; this has been freely supplemented by information taken from the reports of previous northern explorations. For the convenience of the reader, constant references are not made to these authorities in the text, a list of them being given in an appendix.

Special mention is here made of the indebtedness of the author to the valuable information contained in the works of Richardson, McClintock, Dawson, Bell and Sverdrup.

The accompanying map has been compiled by Mr. C. Frank King. It contains all the corrections to coastline made from his surveys. The ship’s track marked on the map will be found convenient in following the text of the narrative.

All bearings mentioned in the text refer to the true North, on account of the confusion arising from the great change in the variation of the compass at different localities included in the area covered by the report. For example, at Chesterfield inlet the compass points true North; while at Beechey island, in Lancaster sound, the variation amounts to 160 degrees, so that the north end of the needle points south-southwest.

The illustrations in the text of the report are from photographs taken by the author.

Acknowledgment is made of the kindness of Admiral Sir Arch. L. Douglas for his willing assistance in fitting out the Neptune at Halifax, where suitable Welsh coal and a fine steam launch, on his recommendation, were supplied by the Admiralty.

To Captain George Comer, of the American whaler Era, special thanks are due for his uniform kindness and courtesy during our long winter together, and for the valuable assistance rendered, by advice, information and services, to the expedition and to myself, personally.

The writer gratefully acknowledges a large amount of interesting details relating to the natives, whaling industry, geography and natural history obtained from the Rev. Mr. Peck, and from the Scottish whaling Captains Milne, Adams, Guy and Murray.

Clyx.com

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

SHIP’S COMPANY.

CHAPTER I. VOYAGE TO THE BAY

CHAPTER I.
VOYAGE TO THE BAY