COSMETICS.

Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints.

The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the following receipts.

Skin Cosmetics.—Toilet vinegars.—Perfumed vinegars, when added to wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in the room.

Vinaigre de Bully.—Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs.

Vinaigre de toilette À la rose.—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., extrait rose No. 1, 1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

Vinaigre de toilette À la violette.—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11 drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

Vinaigre de toilette hÉliotrope.—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.

Vinaigre de toilette orange.—Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each 8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.

Vinaigre de toilette.—Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root tincture 1? lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs.

Aromatic vinegar.—Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1? oz., acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs., oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops.

English aromatic vinegar.—Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor 2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve.

The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not, sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.

Toilet vinegar.—Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs.

Washes.—Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much employed as an addition to wash-water.

Virginal milk (Lait virginal).—Alcohol of finest quality 2½ quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin tincture 1 quart.

Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves.

Rose milk (Lait de rose).—Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., Extrait rose No. 1 8 ozs.

Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved, the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving. When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth (best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to cool. When cold add the Extrait rose, shake thoroughly and fill it into bottles for sale.

If the Lait de rose is to be rose color, add very carefully a small quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously.

Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become rancid.

Almond milk (Lait d'amandes amÈres).—Distilled water 5 lbs., bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in extract from Pomm. Tubereuse 8 ozs.

Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water, and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is dissolved in the extract from Pomm. Tubereuse and added last of all to the liquid mass.

Lily milk (Lait de lys).—Rose water, orange-flower water, and jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½ ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture 1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for Lait de Rose.

In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid.

Perfumed glycerin with rose odor.—Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., Extrait rose No. 1, 8 ozs.

By adding the Extrait rose, the glycerin becomes turbid, but clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and besides entirely useless.

Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor.—Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality.

Perfumed Meals and Pastes.—The perfumed meals are frequently used for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer.

Farin de noisette (nut meal).—Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs., almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

Farin d'amandes amÈres (almond meal).—Best quality wheat flour and almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz.

Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine sieve.

Pate d'amandes au miel (honey almond paste).—Best quality almond meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs., fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20 eggs.

Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain boxes.

Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands, face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent.

Poudre de riz À la rose.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms.

The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for Poudre de riz. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for 14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water.

If rose-colored poudre de riz rose is demanded, add to the proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass the whole through a fine sieve.

These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters.

Poudre de riz hÉliotrope.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil 2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, Extrait hÉliotrope No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz À la rose.

Poudre de riz À la violette.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms, Extrait Violette No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms.

Proceed as directed for Poudre riz À la rose.

Poudre de riz orange.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from Pommade Orange 1 oz.

Proceed as directed for Poudre riz À la rose.

Poudre de riz muguet.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms, Extrait Muguet No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz À la rose.

Poudre de riz ixora.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz., bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from Pomm. Cassie or Extrait ixora 1¾ ozs.

Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz À la rose.

Poudre de riz bouquet.—Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs., bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, Extrait ess-bouquet No. 1, 3½ ozs.

Proceed as directed for Poudre de riz À la rose.

Cold Creams and Lip-Salves.—The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes of temperature.

Cold cream.—Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., spermaceti 5¼ ozs., white beeswax 7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose oil 5½ drachms.

Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes.

Vaseline cold cream.—White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms.

Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream.

Glycerin cream.—Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil 1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½ drachms. Proceed as above.

CrÊme de concombre.—Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms, spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs., volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms.

Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of the process being the same as with cold cream.

Glycerin gelÉe.—Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water 10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, 1¾ ozs.

Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and Extrait rose, mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin.

Glycerin jelly.—Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs., orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.

Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the perfume.

Cream of roses.—Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol ½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and bergamot each 1 oz.

Boroglycerin cream.—Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands, lips, etc.

RÉcamier cream.—The following formula is said to produce something quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1 fluid drachm.

Preparations for chapped hands.—I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16 ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and benzoin.

II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit.

III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly disappear.

IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10 grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.

Wash for the hands.--Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water 4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly dried and then well rubbed with the lotion.

Nail-powder.—The following preparation serves for the purpose of imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until they show lustre.

Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients.

Lip-salve No. 1.—Pomm. Rose No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine nacarat 2½ drachms.

Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the Pomm. Rose in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish coloration.

If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame.

Lip-salve No. 2.—Pomm. Rose No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., Huile antique rose No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine nacarat 2¾ drachms.

Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is the same as given for No. 1.

Paints.—The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to impart to it a different color—as a rule a youthful one—from that bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.

Pulverulent Paints (Powders).—The simplest powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described (p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc franÇais," is obtained.

Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according to circumstances, with subnitrate of bismuth (flake-white), magnesia, chalk or zinc-white. White lead, though frequently used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.

Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:—

I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.

II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.

The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about ? of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.

A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix 100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red. To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be carefully bolted through silk.

Solid Paints.—Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution.

Ordinary red paint (rouge).—Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much as required.

Fine red paint (rouge).—Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, Extrait rose No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as much as required.

White paint.—Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, Extrait rose No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as required.

The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes, which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must, however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too much glycerin may also make the paint blue.

Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared 3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and 3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½ drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the mass, mix in the 1 oz. of Extrait rose or alcohol, and again work the mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon porcelain plates.

The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover 6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation. With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then, to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly, cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moirÉ of the silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth. In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing, labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described, but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article, the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive designs, without too much imitating others.

Red stick-paint (Stick rouge).—Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine 5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth mucilage as much as required.

The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth mucilage are to be used.

For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.

White stick paint is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with the exception that the carmine is omitted.

Rouge en feuilles.—Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms, olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth mucilage 1¾ ozs.

The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water, and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the separate pieces.

Liquid Paints. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors.

Liquid rouge.—Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., Extrait rose No. 1, 1 lb.

Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge is cold add 1 lb. of Extrait de rose, mix the whole intimately, and filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The rouge has to be protected from sunlight.

White liquid paint.—Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange water 3½ quarts.

In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.

Fat paints.—Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of Blanc fard or Blanc franÇais, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine, eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; or paraffin 1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously slightly warmed.

Besides the above-mentioned fat paints in sticks, there are also fat paints in porcelain boxes, which are of a somewhat softer consistency. They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts for them are as follows:—

CrÊme de Lys.—Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with 3? lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with 1? lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until entirely cold, and perfume.

CrÊme de rose.—Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., Blanc FranÇais 3? lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs.

Proceed as directed for crÊme de lys.