HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.

To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled, and the scalp to be frequently cleansed. Pomades and oils serve for the former purpose, and hair tonics for the latter. For the preparation of pomades, fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, are principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, castor oil, almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more recently, vaseline are also employed. For the preparation of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive oil and almond oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on the one hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming, and, on the other, what is of still greater importance, rancid fat injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils above mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a drying oil, and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose.

Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, the property of strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being ascribed to them. This is especially the case as regards beef marrow and horse fat,[22] whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer (cerval medullÆ) and bear's grease were believed to possess this property. Cleopatra is said to have used the latter, and many ladies are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to their hair when they use Pommade À la graisse d'ours. Thoroughly purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned fats.

Pomades. Pomades are prepared by two different methods; the desired odor is imparted to the fat by the extraction of the flowers of various plants, or the fat in a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different volatile oils.

The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, be as fresh and pure as possible, so that they will keep for a long time. Fats intended for fine pomades, for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are generally first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly washing, so that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed, and the pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity. For the removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats are remelted. Still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting a small quantity of salicylic acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs. of fat), or of gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also renders the fats more durable.

The purification of the fat, which generally consists of 2 to 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently effected as follows: Boil for about one hour 125 lbs. of fat with about 30 gallons of water containing 1 lb. each of common salt and alum in solution, constantly removing the scum formed. After standing for several hours, the fat thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water; it is then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of pulverized benzoin, for some time heated at 167° F., and finally strained into stone jars, which, after the fat is cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years.

For coloring the pomades are used: 1. For red: Alkannin, cinnabar, carmine (triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added to the fat) and safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol and 80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. For yellow: Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. For brown: Cocoa powder and ochre. 4. For green: Chlorophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring substances, a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & Voigt, of Oker, Germany. It is manufactured in lemon color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown shades, and 10 to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful color to 100 lbs. of fat or oil.

Fine French Pomades (Flower Pomades).—In France, especially in the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such as roses, violets, mignonette, hÉliotrope, etc., is carried on on an extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously mentioned (see p. 58 et seq.).

The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added, is then stirred until cold.

Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:—

Pommade À la rose.—Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.

Pommade À l'acacia.—Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.

Pommade À la fleur d'orange.—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.

Pommade À l'hÉliotrope.—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh hÉliotrope flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an equal quantity of fresh flowers.

All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus, lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume imparted to them.

Pomades according to the German Method. Most of the pomades consumed in Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades red, while alkannin suffers alterations.

The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat, after being melted, and somewhat cooled off, is generally vigorously worked or beaten with a wooden pestle or spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like appearance. By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat is stirred until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots.

The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable foundations for white pomades:—

I. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs.

II. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs.

III. Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs.

IV. Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb.

V. Lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil 2 lbs.

VI. Castor oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1 lb.

VII. Lard 6 lbs., cocoanut oil 3 lbs.

VIII. Lard 8 lbs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 lb.

IX. Pomade fat 12 lbs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in hot water, borax ½ drachm. This mass will stand about ¼ water.

X. In summer: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 7 ozs.

In winter: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 4½ ozs.

To either mass given under X, add and combine thoroughly with it 14 drachms of borax dissolved in 1 quart of water.

The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally perfumed. For perfuming, different volatile oils and perfume substances of suitable composition are used, 1 to 1½ ozs. of perfume being generally sufficient for 2 lbs. of fat.

Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades are as follows:—

Apple pomade.—Digest for some time in the water bath 2 lbs. of fresh apple parings with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, press, color yellow, stir until cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate, commonly called "apple oil."

Bear's grease pomade.—Perfume purified bear's grease 8 lbs., or benzoated lard 6 lbs. and beef-tallow 2 lbs., with rose-geranium oil 2¾ ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs.

Quinine pomade No. 1.—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2½ lbs., quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of cantharides and distilled water each 8 ozs., Peru balsam 4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms.

Quinine pomade No. 2.—Vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 2 lbs., fat jasmine oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract ½ lb., tannin 5¼ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms.

Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peruvian bark extract previously rubbed up with as little water as possible, and stir in the tannin dissolved in the volatile oils.

Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., colored with prepared cocoa powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed with Peruvian balsam 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de Cologne each 5½ drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender, and cinnamon each 40 drops.

Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2.—Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2½ lbs., cocoa powder 15¾ ozs., Peru balsam 2¼ ozs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 2¾ drachms, oil of bitter almonds 10 drops.

Benzoin pomade.—Digest for several hours in a water bath at 167° F. 6 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, and 1½ lbs. of pulverized benzoin, and strain off the fat.

Densdorf pomade.—Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., yellow wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 4½ drachms.

Ice pomade No. 1.—Best olive oil 6 lbs., white vaseline and spermaceti each 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter almond oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms.

Ice pomade No. 2.—Fat almond oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms, palma rose oil 2¾ drachms.

Family pomade (red).—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and cinnamon each 14 drachms. Color with alkannin.

Family pomade (white).—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz.

Family pomade (rose color).—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender oil each 1¼ ozs. Color with alkannin.

Family pomade (yellow).—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms. Color with lederin or annotto.

Family pomade (brown).—Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange oil and clove oil each 11¼ drachms. Color brown with cocoa powder, lederin, or umber.

Strawberry pomade.—Fresh ripe strawberries 1½ lbs., fresh lard, 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., rose oil 5 drops.

Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest them for some time with the fat in the water-bath. Then moderately press the strawberries, color with alkannin, and finally perfume.

Fine hair pomade.—Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil and wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture 1 drachm.[23]

Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair.—Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., tincture of cantharides 10½ ozs., lemon oil 2½ ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil 1½ drachms.

HÉliotrope pomade, finest quality.—Lard treated with benzoin 6 lbs., beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 lbs., heliotropin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of the fat heated to about 111° F.; neroli oil 35 drops.

HÉliotrope pomade.—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef tallow 2 lbs., Peru balsam 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, artificial bitter-almond oil 1½ drachms.

Jasmine pomade.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef tallow 2 lbs., fat jasmine oil 2? lbs., rose oil 25 drops.

Emperor pomade.—Melt together 7? lbs. of fresh olive oil, 2 lbs. of castor oil, and 2? lbs. of spermaceti. Perfume with fat jasmine oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and bergamot oil each 2¾ drachms, neroli oil 50 drops, geranium oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops, heliotropin ½ drachm, and cumarin 1/10 drachm.

Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of the fat heated to 111° F., add the solution, together with the other perfume-materials, to the fat before it congeals, then pour the pomade into jars and allow it to cool slowly.

Macassar pomade.—Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cinnamon oil each 1 oz., rose-geranium oil 2¾ drachms.

Portugal pomade.—Fresh lard 4 lbs., white vaseline 1 lb., wax 3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., caraway oil 2¾ drachms.

Herb pomade.—Melt together fresh lard 8 lbs., Japanese wax and bayberry oil each 3½ ozs., improve the color with chlorophyl, and perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil 5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, and a few drops of curly mint oil.

Lanolin pomade.—Benzoated fat 4 lbs., benzoinized olive oil and lanolin each 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cinnamon oil 7¼ drachms, clove oil 5½ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm dissolved in a portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color red with alkannin.

Oriental pomade.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1¼ ozs., neroli oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with lederin.

Paraffin ice pomade.—Castor oil or olive oil 6 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., palma rose oil 11¼ drachms.

Neroli pomade.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each 1¾ ozs., oil of bitter almonds 2 drops, nerolin 1½ drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color pale yellow.

Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white).—Lard 5 lbs., beef-tallow or cocoanut oil 2 lbs., perfumed with about 3½ ozs. of fruit ether.

Mignonette pomade.—Benzoated lard 4 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow and fat mignonette oil each 2 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¾ ozs. Color pale green with chlorophyl.

Castor oil pomade No. 1.—Melt together 4 lbs. of castor oil and 11¼ ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., and geranium oil 6½ drachms.

Castor oil pomade No. 2.—Castor oil and fine olive oil each 2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet orange oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms.

Princess pomade.—Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoa butter and wax each 1 lb., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 14 drachms, neroli oil 6¾ drachms. Color rose color with alkannin.

Fine pomade.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs., lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. Color yellow with annotto.

Beef-marrow pomade.—Melt together 4 lbs. of lard and 1 lb. of beef-marrow, or, 4 lbs of lard, 14 ozs. of spermaceti, and 1¾ ozs. of yellow wax, color yellow and perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, and a few drops of clove oil.

Rogers's pomade for producing a beard.—Lard 7½ lbs., yellow wax ½ lb., fine cantharides powder 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., oils of lemon, cinnamon and lavender each 11 drachms.

Rose pomade.—Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., palma rosa oil 2¾ ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms, alkannin for coloring 1 to 1½ ozs.

Fine rose pomade.—Fresh lard 2½ lbs., spermaceti and fat almond oil, each 3½ ozs., rose geranium oil 1¼ ozs., bitter almond oil 1½ ozs.

Finest rose pomade.—Fat rose oil 2? lbs., spermaceti 7 ozs., white wax 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1½ ozs., rose oil and bergamot oil, each ½ drachm. Color red with alkannin.

Salicylic pomade.—Fresh lard 7 lbs., white wax 1 lb., fat jasmine oil 1? lbs. Peru balsam 5¼ ozs., salicylic acid 2 ozs., dissolved in alcohol 4 ozs.

Victoria pomade.—Melt together 3-1/5 lbs. of fat almond oil and 10½ ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture, when quite cooled off, with fat jasmine oil ½ lb., rose oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color rose color with alkannin.

Tonka pomade.—Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., cumarin 4½ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat.

Fine vanilla pomade.—Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs., vanilla 2¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat.

Vanilla pomade.—Lard and vaseline each 2 lbs., wax 3½ ozs., Peruvian balsam 1? ozs., bitter-almond oil ½ drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops.

Violet pomade.—Lard 4 lbs., vaseline 2 lbs., wax 5½ ozs., spermaceti 1¾ ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3¾ drachms, clove oil 2¼ drachms, cinnamon oil ¾ drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.

Walnut pomade.—Work in a mortar to a uniform paste ½ lb. of fresh green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum. Digest the paste with 2? lbs. of benzoinized lard and tallow in the water-bath until the fat appears clear. Then strain off the fat, stir until cold, and perfume with 1½ drachms of neroli oil and ½ drachm of rose oil.

Vaseline Pomades.—Vaseline pomades consisting neither of an animal nor of a vegetable fat, but almost entirely of a mineral fat, form a special division of pomades. On account of its good properties and cheapness, vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum residues, etc., has for several years past been much used in the preparation of pomades. The pomades prepared from vaseline are not only very suitable for oiling the hair, as they never become rancid, but may also advantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin, inflammation, cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless vaseline has to be used, 1 lb. of it requiring about 5½ to 8½ drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has been previously mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades. When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself sufficient for the purpose, frequently receives an addition of paraffin, wax (mostly ceresin), and lard. To vaseline pomades intended for export to warm climates, an addition of ¼ to ?ceresin is required.

The following mixtures give good foundations for vaseline pomade:—

I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1.
II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1.
III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1.
IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1.

The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin or ceresin and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When the fat commences to thicken, the perfume is added and the pomade poured into jars or tin boxes.

A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here given.

Bouquet vaseline pomade.—White vaseline and fresh lard each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 6¾ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, neroli oil 3¾ drachms, geranium oil 2¾ drachms.

Family vaseline pomade.—Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., oils of bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil 12¾ drachms, cassia oil 8¼ drachms, lavender oil 4½ drachms, clove oil 3¾ drachms; or, bergamot oil 2 ozs., palma-rose oil 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 5½ drachms.

Lily of the valley vaseline pomade.—White vaseline and fresh lard each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., ylang-ylang oil 2¾ drachms, licari oil ½ drachm.

Neroli vaseline pomade.—Vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 2 lbs., geranium oil 1 oz., nerolin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat.

Mignonette vaseline pomade.—White vaseline 2 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, artificial bitter almond oil 15 drops.

Portugal vaseline pomade.—Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ drachms.

Rose vaseline pomade, No. 1.—Vaseline 6 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1¼ ozs., nerolin ¾ drachm. Colored with lederin.

Rose vaseline pomade, No. 2.—Vaseline and lard each 2 lbs., ceresin 7 ozs., geranium oil 1½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with alkannin.

Fine vaseline pomade (yellow).—Yellow vaseline and castor oil each 2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, nerolin ½ drachm.

Vaseline pomade (red).—White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin or ceresin 14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil and lavender oil each 11¼ drachms. Color red with lederin or alkannin.

Vaseline pomade (white).—White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 14 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 1½ drachms.

Virginia vaseline pomade.—Digest for some time in the water-bath 2 lbs. of white vaseline, 2½ ozs. each of yellow wax and pulverized benzoin, and 11 drachms of Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with bergamot oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1½ drachms.

This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp, but is also a good remedy for tetter, cutaneous eruptions, etc.

Victoria vaseline pomade.—White vaseline 5 lbs., paraffin 1 lb., bergamot oil 1½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1 oz., lavender 8¼ drachms. Color red with alkannin or lederin.

Extra fine vaseline pomade.—White vaseline 4 lbs., ceresin 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1? ozs., lemon oil 9 drachms, palmarosa oil 2¼ drachms.

Stick pomades.—Besides the soft, unctuous pomades thus far treated of, we have a solid product—the so-called stick-pomades. These pomades, which serve for the better fastening of the hair, are brought into commerce either as wax pomades or resin pomades, the former being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow, and wax, and the latter from tallow, wax, and resin, to which some Venetian turpentine may be added.

The following mixtures give good foundations for stick pomades:—

The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is as follows: Melt the fat, wax and resin in the water-bath, then strain the mixture and cool it off by constant stirring until a thin film is formed upon the surface. Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such tin moulds of the same size are generally soldered together and are provided below either with a hinged piece, or they are open. In the latter case they are placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves for the reception for the fat escaping from any of the moulds. The cold pomades are pushed out by means of sticks of wood fitting exactly into the moulds. They are then wrapped in tinfoil, labelled and brought into commerce.

Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow, brown or black; alkannin, lederin, umber, Frankfort black, etc., being used as coloring substances.

In the following some receipts for wax and resin pomades are given:—

Rose-wax pomade.—Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white-wax 3 lbs., colored with alkannin. Perfume: Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil 14 drachms, geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 6¾ drachms; or, bergamot oil 1 oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10 drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms.

Black-wax pomade.—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 1½ lbs., colored with Frankfort black. Perfume: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 13½ drachms; or, bergamot oil 3½ ozs., citronella oil 6¾ drachms.

Blonde wax pomade.—Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white or yellow wax 3 lbs. Perfume: Clove oil 1¼ ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil and Peru balsam each 14 drachms; or, bergamot oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 5½ drachms, thyme oil 2¾ drachms.

Brown wax pomade.—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., colored with umber. Perfume: Citronella oil 2 ozs., clove oil 12¼ drachms, bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, anise-seed oil 6¾ drachms; or, bergamot oil 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms.

Cheap-wax pomade (color as desired).—Best tallow 9½ lbs., ceresin ½ lb. Perfume: Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., palma-rose oil 11 drachms; or, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., palmarosa oil 1 oz., lavender oil ½ oz.

Resin pomade No. 1.—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., pale resin 1 lb. Perfume: Bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.

Resin pomade No. 2.—Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2½ lbs., pale resin 1 lb., Venetian turpentine 4 ozs. Perfume: Cassia oil 2¾ ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and thyme oil each 5½ drachms.

Cheap resin pomade.—Best tallow 8½ lbs., pale resin and pale ceresin each 13 ozs. Perfume: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 9½ drachms, thyme oil 5 drachms; or, Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ drachms.

Hair Oils.—Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils obtained in the latter manner are known as Huiles antiques, and are the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. To make the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from becoming rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For this purpose digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, in the water-bath 100 lbs. of the oil with 1 lb. of pulverized benzoin. With the exception of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5½ to 8¼ drachms of perfume are required for 1 lb. of oil.

The Huiles antiques are obtained as follows:—

Huile antique À la rose.—Extract in the cold 1 lb. of fresh rose leaves with 1 lb. of best olive oil, and with the oil pressed off, extract, six times in succession, equal quantities of fresh leaves, leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for 10 to 12 hours. The oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered.

Huile antique au jasmin.—Extract in the manner above given 1 lb. of fresh jasmin flowers with 1 lb. of olive oil.

In the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be withdrawn and utilized.

A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given.

Alpine herb oil.—Color slightly with chlorophyl 10 lbs. of best quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil 2 ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6½ drachms.

Flower hair oil.—Color slightly with alkannin 10 lbs. of benzoated olive oil of best quality, and perfume with geranium oil 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil and lavender oil each 9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4½ drachms, and angelica oil 5 drops.

Peruvian bark hair oil.—Extract for some time 1 lb. of pulverized Peruvian bark with 10 lbs. of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil. Then color the oil red with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2¼ drachms, neroli oil ½ drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops; or, with bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1? oz., geranium oil 3¼ drachms.

Peru hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs., cassia oil 11 drachms.

Burdock root hair oil No. 1.—Digest at a moderate heat 8 lbs. of olive oil or sesame oil with 2 lbs. of fresh burdock roots; then pour off the oil from the roots, add 7 ozs. of castor oil, color with alkannin, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz.

Burdock root hair oil No. 2.—Color 10 lbs. of benzoated olive oil pale green with chlorophyl, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., geranium oil 1¼ ozs., and lavender oil 11 drachms.

Macassar hair oil No. 1.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., geranium oil and lemon oil each 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms. Color red with alkannin.

Macassar oil No. 2.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored with alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk essence 1 drachm.

Neroli hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., nerolin 5½ drachms dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, rose oil 10 drops.

Mignonette hair oil No. 1.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.

Mignonette hair oil No. 2.—Benzoated olive oil 4 lbs., fat mignonette oil 3 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 3½ ozs.

Fine hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 15¾ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil 2¾ drachms, rosemary oil 1½ drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm.

Cheap hair oil (red or yellow).—Sesame oil or purified colza oil 10 lbs., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., citronella oil 1? ozs., mirbane oil 10 drachms; or, Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½ drachms.

Portugal hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1½ ozs., caraway oil 3¼ drachms.

Jasmine hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat jasmine oil 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil 4½ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, thyme oil ½ drachm.

Vaseline hair oil No. 1.—White vaseline oil 8 lbs., white olive oil 2 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil and lemon oil each 11 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms.

Vaseline hair oil No. 2.—Yellow vaseline oil 8 lbs., olive oil 2 lbs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz.

Vanilla hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., vanillin, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru balsam, each 5½ drachms, bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk tincture 10 drops.

Ylang-ylang hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 5 lbs., ylang-ylang oil 2 drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil 10 drops.

Philocome hair oil.—Melt together benzoated olive oil and yellow wax each 2 lbs., and when about half cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat jasmine oil, each 1½ lbs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until cold.

Sultana hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., lavender oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, musk tincture 1 drachm.

Rose hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored pale red with alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 drachms.

Tonka hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cumarin 10 drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.

Violet hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat orris-root oil 3 lbs., bergamot oil 6½ drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 1 drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.

Victoria hair oil.—Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., slightly colored with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil each 1 oz., musk tincture 1½ drachms.

Cheap hair oil No. 1.—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 3, rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and thyme oil each ½.

Cheap hair oil No. 2.—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, lemon oil 2, rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium oil 1, musk tincture ¼, thyme oil 1.

Bandolines.—Bandolines are mucilaginous liquids, and are prepared from substances forming mucilage, such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic, Japanese gelatine, quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering very firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The substances above mentioned are heated with water until the mucilaginous matter is extracted. The latter is then strained through a cloth, and the mucilaginous, thick, transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed. Volatile oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an Extrait is generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for dissolving the gums. If the bandoline is to be colored, an ammoniacal carmine solution is to be used. Aniline colors should not be employed for the purpose, since they precipitate upon the scalp and hair, even if only traces of them are present.

Bandolines are not very durable; their keeping properties may, however, be improved by the addition of benzoic or boric acid.

Rose bandoline.—Gum-tragacanth 1 lb., rose water 7 lbs.

Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable earthenware or enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over it, and let it stand in a right warm place until by the swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is formed. If the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if, however, the bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a mortar 1 to 1½ drachms of best carmine with as little ammonia as possible, and distribute this coloring matter in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger to reach to the bottom are best.

Almond bandoline.—Allow 5 lbs. of rose water and 1¼ ozs. of quince seed to stand, with frequent shaking, for 24 hours. Then strain and perfume with 2 drachms of bitter almond oil.

Brilliantine.—Brilliantine is very popular for giving lustre to the hair of the head and the beard, and in fact, if correctly prepared, it has many advantages, since, owing to its composition, it considerably decreases, even if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the annoying dandruff.

Flower brilliantine No. 1.—Chemically pure glycerin 1½ ozs., alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower pomade No. 24 10½ ozs., French huile antique as much as required.

Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade extract in a glass flask until a uniform fluid is formed, which should be clear as water. To give it, however, an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little sanders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the brilliantine glasses half full with the above mixture and fill up the glasses with French huile antique of the same flower-perfume as the respective alcoholic flower-pomade extract, but do not shake, this being done only when used.

Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well known, is non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical, while it is made very agreeable by the fine French flower perfumes.

If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, pure alcohol may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for the French huile antique.

Brilliantine No. 2.—For brilliantine of quality II, the glasses are first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture. Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top.

This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so economical as the preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair hard, especially that of persons having naturally dry hair. However, this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy the demands of his customers as much as possible.

Brilliantine No. 3.—Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 lbs., Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 1 oz., cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms.

Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add the volatile oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil is pure and genuine, it forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol; if, on the other hand, traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose. The castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under no conditions, rancid.

If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color, the object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or turmeric tincture.

That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its composition. It has the further disadvantage that it plasters the hair, especially when the castor oil becomes old. However, there are consumers with whom this quality is quite popular.

The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various sources:—

I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., oil of bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil of bergamot 20 drops. Melt together the first three ingredients, and add the perfumes when nearly cold.

II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon 3 ozs. Melt the spermaceti at a low temperature; add the oil and heat until all flakes disappear. Let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm, and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals.

The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered as a good brilliantine:—

III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water each ½ fluid oz., alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix.

Hair Tonics.—Hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out. Glycerin having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the constituents. The tonics also frequently contain ingredients said to promote the growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, quinine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing tannin. Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should, however, not be too frequently used, as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp might be the result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to the growth of the hair.

Some receipts for hair tonics are here given.

Eau AthÉnienne.—Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, vanilla tincture 1¼ lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 drachms.

After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix thoroughly.

Florida water No. 1.—Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender oil 3 lbs., bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium oil ½ lb., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts.

The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately mixed in a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to three weeks when the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated. After adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires several weeks to clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, notwithstanding filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, bring a small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter.

Florida water No. 2.—Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil 7 ozs., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme oil each 3½ ozs., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 5½ drachms, rain-water 10 quarts.

Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida water No. 1.

Eau de Cologne hair tonic.—Alcohol 8 quarts, oils of bergamot and lemons each 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 11 drachms, rosemary oil 5½ drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3½ ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in 2½ quarts of distilled water.

Eau de quinine.—Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, tinctures of gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, vanilla tincture 1 quart, bergamot oil 7 ozs., African rose-geranium oil 3½ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 4 lbs., boiled with filtered rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb. dissolved in 1 quart of water.

The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought into a glass balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand 8 days for the volatile oils to dissolve. The decoction of Panama wood is then added, next the bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole is thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction should not be added while hot, as otherwise the glass balloon might burst. Color the water with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.

Eau de quinine (imitation).—Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla tincture No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., clove oil 3½ ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 3 lbs., boiled in rain-water 20 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in rain-water 1 quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine Eau de quinine. Color with henna tincture.

Honey water.—Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean extract 1¾ ozs., turmeric tincture, as coloring matter, 5½ drachms, Portugal oil 7¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 5½ drachms. After 8 days add 1 liter of orange-flower water.

Glycerin hair tonic.—Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, borax 1 oz., rose water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of petit-grain and cloves each 2 drachms, rosemary oil 4 drachms.

Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the alcohol, and mix all together. It should be clear. Color yellow, if desired, with saffron tincture.

Eau lustral (hair restorative).—Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.

Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation. Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.

Tea hair tonic.—Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs., infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and perfume to suit. The tea infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best quality) to 10 ozs. of boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and add the other ingredients.

Locock's lotion for the hair.—Expressed oil of nutmeg 5 fluid ozs., olive oil and stronger water of ammonia each 20 fluid ozs., spirit of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose water sufficient to make 20 pints. The above should be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the combined oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water of ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and afterwards slowly incorporating the rose water.

Shampoo lotion.—New England rum 1 pint, bay rum 12 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz., borax 2 ozs.

Shampoo liquid.—The readiest agent to produce a good lather upon the hair of the head is a solution of potassa or soda or a dilute water of ammonia. The latter, however, owing to its penetrating odor, is not usually liked.

The following combinations will be found serviceable:—

I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay rum ½ fluid oz., tincture of quillaga ½ fluid oz., water enough to make 16 fluid ozs. This may be scented according to taste.

II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1½ fluid ozs., carbonate of potassium 160 grains, water of ammonia 160 drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains, oils of rose and bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop, almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly beat the 3 eggs, and then dilute with the rose water. Then add the other ingredients.

Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part of cumarin with 999 parts of sugar of milk.

Dandruff cures.—I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury 1 drachm, petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair short and keep well brushed, and apply the ointment every night for a fortnight.

II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated mercury 10 grains, petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply every night.

III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid ozs., Cologne water 5 fluid ozs., water sufficient to make 15 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 1.

Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 2.

Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of benzoin 20 fluid drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 3.

Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse well, and dry thoroughly; then rub in some of solution No. 1 and allow to dry, then use No. 2 in a like manner, and finally apply No. 3. The treatment should be carried out daily for a month, and then every alternate day for a fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and the hair in a short time becomes vigorous and supple.

Dandruff lotion.—Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin 4 drachms, bay rum 8 ozs.

Bay rum.—Genuine bay rum, as brought into commerce from St. Thomas, is said to be prepared by twice distilling a fine quality of rum with the leaves and berries of Myrcia acris or the bayberry tree. The berries are much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on account of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries is connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so scanty, that the manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and berries in a certain proportion.

The following directions for preparing bay rum are given in Schimmel & Co.'s reports:—

I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., water 4 lbs., bay oil 5½ drachms, pimento oil 2¼ drachms, clove oil 10 drops. Mix, let stand for several days and filter.

II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., bay oil 15 drachms.

Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 lbs. of best Jamaica rum. This bay rum is said to be equal to the imported.

Another receipt for bay rum is as follows:—

III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit of 60 per cent. 14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs.

Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; then the spirit, and finally filter.

Mierzinski gives the following formulÆ for bay rum:—

IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace 1 grain, oil of orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz., water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest 2 or 3 weeks, and filter through magnesia.

V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves 1 drop, mace 20 grains, water warmed to 80° F. to make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, digest the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occasional agitation, for several days, and filtered through magnesia.

VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent. alcohol 36 ozs., oil of bay ½ oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4 drops. Allow to stand at least 3 weeks before using.

Hair Dyes.—The requirements of a good hair-dye are that it can be readily applied, that it contains no injurious substances, and that the coloration be as natural and durable as possible. These demands are difficult to fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one of the ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to them. Black hair dyes give the most natural coloration, but the peculiar shade of blue-black hair cannot be imitated. The medium colors, light brown and blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid coloration, though, in order to make the deception more complete, a gradual coloration is by many persons preferred. Such gradual, though only very slightly darker coloration, is attained by the use of hair oils and certain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur or iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot oil. It was formerly believed that egg oil, if used in time, would even prevent the hair from turning gray. The gradual darkening of the hair may also be effected by agents, which are converted into colored combinations only by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of sulphur in the hair, such as extract from nut shells, tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals, the latter chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter. Mothers wishing to keep the hair of their children blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash the heads of the children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration is, however, durable; it becomes in the course of time gradually weaker, and the new growth of hair always requires after-coloration.

For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed. Owing to their poisonous action the use of lead salts for the purpose is prohibited in some countries, for instance, in Germany and Austria. Silver is used in the form of nitrate of silver (lunar caustic). In the presence of organic substances, as well as under the influence of light, this combination is reduced, metallic silver in small black grains being separated. Silver salts also give a black precipitate of silver sulphide with sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening the hair with silver solution they become brown to brown-black, the coloration appearing more rapidly by previously treating the hair with pyrogallic acid, or, after the application of the silver solution, with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium. The colorations produced with nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again for some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish color, this being especially the case if they were not sufficiently freed from fat before dyeing. For freeing the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of 1 part spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry carefully.

Copper salts with certain substances, such as potassium ferrocyanide solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium sulphydrate, and pyrogallic acid give dark-brown colorations. Of the copper salts, the sulphate in ammoniacal solution is most frequently employed, though occasionally also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful brown color to the hair. Small quantities of copper salt are also frequently added to the actual black dyes; the hair by this means acquiring a brown-black, instead of a deep black color.

All the iron salts, with the exception of the chloride, may be used for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by themselves make the hair somewhat darker, but this slow, natural process is not relied on, and a second substance forming dark colored combinations with the iron, such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule, employed. To this class belongs a Turkish hair dye, which, according to X. Landerer, is prepared as follows: Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder are mixed with oil and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic vapors and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained is made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a finely pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide, copper, and antimony, the result being a deep black mass. This dye is called Rastikopetra (eyebrow-stone). It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by both men and women.

Potassium permanganate solution is reduced by organic substances, peroxide of manganese being formed. A concentrated solution of this salt imparts to the hair and skin an intense brown color, which, however, is not very durable, and requires frequent renewing.

Pyrogallic acid may be used for darkening the hair, not only in combination with metallic substances, but also by itself, or with alkalies. Hair moistened with pyrogallic acid becomes under the influence of light and air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is not handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In connection with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown to black-brown coloration.

Under the name of Kohol, an extremely fine powder, consisting of black sulphide of antimony, is used in Egypt by all classes for blackening the edges of the eyelids and the eyebrows.

A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is henna, the dried and pulverized leaves of Lawsonia inermis. By the women this powder is used for coloring the hair and nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating baths the attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women and tie it upon the finger nails. The women then frequently remain for hours in the steam bath, whereby the powdered henna is converted into an extract-like mass which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said that henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-brown, which is considered beautiful. Before treating with henna, the hair must be freed from fat with soap or fuller's earth.

Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black color when subsequently treated with indigo, this mode of dyeing black being much in vogue in the Orient. The process is as follows: The hair, being freed from fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and anointed with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized henna and lukewarm water. The hair, after being smoothed, is allowed to remain for at least one hour in contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with lukewarm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the same manner anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water, and allowed to remain in contact with it for one hour. The hairs which were colored orange-red by the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an intensely blue-black color, which is extraordinarily durable, the hair only after several months requiring to be again dyed.

The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of green walnut shells, or of unripe walnuts, gradually color light or gray hair dark to nut-brown. The coloring substance is not thoroughly known, but is very likely a phloroglucide; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, but, according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such solution. This, however, is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract, because the extract from ordinary walnut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed juice of green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing the mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, also colors brown.

Peroxide of hydrogen bleaches organic substances, dark or red hair being thereby changed to reddish-yellow or pale blonde. The coloration, or rather bleaching, does not appear at once, but is complete only after some time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 per cent.). Owing to the mode of preparation, the solution always contains some nitric acid and readily decomposes, when exposed to light and air, whereby it becomes useless.

In the following, a number of formulÆ for hair-dyes are given. According to their constitution, they may be divided into two groups, viz: A. Dyes which contain the coloring matter in a finished state; and, B. Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process. The dye should first be applied in a dilute state, and the application repeated in case the desired shade is not produced, since by the use of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored black acquiring, for instance, a metallic blue-black lustre.

A. Single Hair Dyes. Teinture Orientale (Karsi).—Ambergris 2¾ drachms, gall-nuts 4 lbs., pulverized iron 1¾ ozs., pulverized copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder, and roast the powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together with the metallic powders, and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp place. For use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to the hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair acquires a deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, the tannin-substances contained in the gall-nuts are converted into gallic and pyrogallic acids, which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color, and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin bodies).

Teinture Chinoise (Kohol).—Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese ink 1¾ ozs., rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-arabic and Chinese ink to fine powder, and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. Collect this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining rose water. Kohol is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for dyeing the eyebrows. The coloring matter of this preparation consisting only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it is perfectly harmless.

Potassium permanganate hair dye.—Potassium permanganate 5 ozs., distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the solution in contact with an organic substance—paper, linen, skin, horn, hair—it rapidly discolors, imparting to the substances a brown color, which originates from peroxide of manganese. Free the hair from fat by washing, and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The color appears immediately, and according to the degree of dilution, all shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this perfectly harmless agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing the beard.

Bismuth hair dye.—Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, 10 per cent. solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity, glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient to make 300 parts. Intimately mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then heat the mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solution of potassa, under constant stirring, until the bismuth salt is dissolved. Next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight alkalinity remains. Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and perfume according to preference.

Walnut hair dye.—Bruise 40 parts of fresh green walnut peel with 5 parts of alum, digest with 200 parts of olive oil until all moisture has been dissipated, strain and perfume the oil according to preference.

Pyrogallic hair stain.—Pyrogallic acid ½ oz., water 3 ozs., alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown color.

B. Double Hair Dyes.—These and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, kept in bottles I and II. The bottle II, which serves for the reception of the silver preparation, must be of blue or black glass, since silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some of the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair with it by means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid in bottle II into another cup, and apply it with another brush.

For dyeing brown. I (in the white bottle).—Liver of sulphur 7 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 4 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.

For dyeing black. I (in the white bottle).—Liver of sulphur 8 ozs., alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart.

Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily soluble in water. The solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles. By bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed, which effects the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which is, however, readily removed by washing.

The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle II as follows: Add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate, kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved.

Tannin hair dye. I (in the white bottle).—Pulverized gall-nuts 14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil the gall-nuts in the water, strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the rose water, and bring the fluid thus obtained, while still hot, into the bottles, which should be immediately closed. (It is absolutely necessary to bring the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould is readily formed.) II (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver 5 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to the silver solution until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved.

MelanogÈne. I (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver 5½ drachms, distilled water 2¾ ozs., water of ammonia 1 oz. II (in the white bottle).—Pyrogallic acid ½ drachm, 40 per cent. spirit of wine 17 ozs.

Eau d'Afrique. I (in the dark bottle).—Nitrate of silver 1½ drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs. II (in the white bottle).—Sodium sulphide 4½ drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs.

Krinochrom. I (in the white bottle).—Pyrogallic acid 5½ drachms, distilled water 6¼ ozs., alcohol 5½ ozs. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 6¾ drachms, water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled water 10½ ozs.

Copper hair dye. I (in the white bottle).—Potassium ferrocyanide (yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).—Cupric sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color, but great care has to be exercised in its use, the yellow prussiate of potash being very poisonous.

Depilatories.—While the number of agents for promoting the growth of the hair is a very small one, and their efficacy not above doubt, there are, on the other hand, quite a number of very effective agents for the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most frequently used for the purpose. Rhusma is a depilatory which has long been known, and is still almost exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1 part orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix intimately by passing the ingredients through a sieve, and preserve the mixture in tightly-closed vessels. For use, stir some of the powder to a paste with water, and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a thin shaving of wood. Owing to the energetic action of this depilatory upon the skin, ladies are advised not to use it for the face.

Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline earths are much used as depilatories. Of these, sodium sulphydrate, however, should never be used, without the advice of a physician, as it acts very energetically upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind. Calcium sulphide is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It is usually prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely-closed crucible an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90 parts of precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus obtained, mix 1 lb. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of lemon oil. Apply the paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing it to remain 20 to 30 seconds. The action of barium sulphide, which is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic than that of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a constituent of Bartholow's depilatory, which consists of barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1 part, and starch 2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol.