Appetizers play a very important part now-a-days in all up-to-date establishments and even in modest homes where they are not only employed as introductory to the course dinner, but as a pleasing accessory to the afternoon tea service. They are supposed to whet the appetite for the heavier dishes that follow. In Europe one always finds them. They are considered very "smart" and as they are but little trouble to prepare in Paper bag cookery, when one has learned the trick, there is no reason why the hostess who aims to keep abreast of the times should not make frequent use of them. At very formal affairs, they are placed on the service plates after the guests are seated, but usually they are at each place when the meal is announced. CanapÉs (which means "toast cushions" or bouchees, small patties or "bites") with their accompanying spread of appetizing fish, cheese or potted meats, are newer than the cocktails of oyster, clam or grape-fruit that used to lead the feast.

Bouchee Cases.—These are usually made from pastry by covering tiny but deep patty pans with rich pastry, cutting narrow strips to make the rim for the cup. Put on a tin in a buttered bag and bake. When cool they will slip from the pan. They may be made the day before using if preferred.

Another way of preparing them is to cut good sized circles of bread; then with a smaller cutter, scrape out a hollow, spread with butter, put in the bag and bake ten minutes until browned. When ready to serve, fill with any mixture desired and serve hot or cold as appetizers or with the salad course.

Bonne Bouchee.—Make the pastry cases and when ready to serve fill with pate-de-foie gras, made soft with whipped cream, seasoned with salt, cayenne or paprika. Decorate each one with an olive or bit of aspic jelly.

Bouchees of Caviare, Olives and Mayonnaise.—Spread circles or dominoes of bread with a thin layer of caviare. In the center place a pitted olive, green or black, with its pit removed and the cavity filled with minced red peppers. Hold the olive in place with a few drops of mayonnaise, red or the usual yellow, and put tiny dots of the same about the border.

Bouchees of Sardines.—Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar, together with a small quantity of cheese. Season with salt, pepper and chili vinegar, and add, if you like, a few chopped oysters. Spread this mixture on circles of "bagged" bread about the size of a silver dollar, and add a garnish of hard-boiled yoke of egg, rubbed through a sieve and a little finely minced parsley.

Bouchees of Sausage or Tongue.—Cover circles of "bagged" bread with red stars cut from boiled tongue or the red imported sausages. Lay on the top of each star, log cabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled gherkins and crown with a sprig of watercress.

The Making of CanapÉs.—Bread two days old is best for the foundation. Trim free from crusts, then cut in uniform oblongs, diamonds, triangles, circles or fingers as desired, using for this the cutters that come on purpose. Butter lightly, spread with the prepared mixture and slip into the well-greased paper-bag for five minutes just long enough to brown the toast delicately and heat the savory.

Anchovy CanapÉs.—Cut white bread in oblong strips, spread lightly with butter, and anchovy paste, and tuck into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes, then serve hot, adding, if liked, to each canapÉ two strips of boneless anchovy laid across it diagonally and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Caviare CanapÉs.—Cut bread in circles and spread with a mixture of three tablespoonfuls caviare paste, one teaspoonful lemon juice, one half teaspoonful paprika, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half cupful minced cress. Pop in the buttered bag and cook five minutes.

Hot Cheese CanapÉs.—Take circles or strips of Vienna bread, spread lightly with butter, grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on top a little cayenne pepper and salt and put in bag. Cook five minutes.

Cheese and Cracker CanapÉs.—Split Boston crackers and soak ten minutes in cold water. Lift out carefully and place on a well-buttered baking tin. Drop on each a generous bit of butter, a sprinkling of grated Parmesan or American cheese and a dusting of paprika. Put in the bag, seal and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.

Cheese Toast Sandwiches.—Cut slices of white bread rather thicker than for sandwiches. Chop fine one cupful of American cheese and two green peppers with the seeds removed. Season with salt and pepper and work to a paste. Spread one slice of bread with butter and its mate with creamed filling. Press firmly together, take off the crusts, and put into the buttered bag. Bake five minutes and serve very hot.

Cracker Crisps.—Dip oyster crackers or dinner biscuits in melted butter, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and put in a paper bag. Bake ten minutes.

Deviled Crackers.—Mix three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, one-fourth teaspoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon of anchovy paste, a dash of cayenne and a pinch of butter. Spread over the crackers and put in bag in a hot oven to brown.

Diables À Cheval.—Have ready large French prunes that have been soaked twenty-four hours in water, then cooked and the pits removed. Insert almonds in the cavity left by the pit. Toss in olive oil or refined cotton seed oil or roll in thin slices of bacon, fastened with a tooth pick, put in the bag, seal and cook eight minutes. Serve piping hot.

NUT APPETIZERS.

Salted Almonds.—Shell as many nice large nuts as desired. The Jordan nuts are best, but the paper-shelled ones will answer. Put into a bowl and cover with boiling water. Spread a towel over the bowl to retain the steam and let them stand five minutes. Pour off the water and replace with cold, then rub off the brown skins between thumb and forefinger. Shake in a colander until dry, then put in a shallow dish adding for each cupful of nuts, one tablespoonful melted butter, olive or refined cotton seed oil (preferably either of the oils, which will give the richer glaze). Stir well together. Let stand an hour, then put into the well-greased paper bag, first sprinkling with dry salt, allowing one tablespoonful to each cupful of nuts. Fasten and roast ten minutes, shaking the bag occasionally. You can do this by the aid of two trivets.

Deviled Almonds.—To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne pepper with the salt.

Roasted Chestnuts.—Make a cross on the shell of the nut using a sharp penknife. Put in the oiled bag, dredge lightly with salt, and let cook twenty minutes giving an occasional shake.

Salted Chestnuts.—Throw into boiling water as many shelled nuts as desired. Blanch and dry, patting with a soft towel. Then add olive oil or melted butter to the nuts, allowing a teaspoonful to each cup of nuts and let them remain in oil half an hour. Dredge with salt, a heaping teaspoonful to each cup, then put in oiled bag and let them brown in the oven from 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the bag frequently to keep them from scorching and make them an even brown. These should be crisp and delicate. To devil them, add a suspicion of cayenne with the salt. Serve at dinner after the cheese.

Deviled Chestnuts.—Shell and blanch a quart of chestnuts. Dry thoroughly, then brown in paper bag in hot olive oil or butter. Have ready a mixture composed of two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed pickle, one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, one quarter teaspoonful salt and a dash of cayenne. Turn this over the hot nuts, and serve at once.