From Stratton to Bodmin; through Launceston, Callington, Saltash, St. Germains, and Liskeard.

The country between Stratton and Launceston, a distance of 12 miles, does not present anything requiring particular notice, except perhaps, within a few miles of the latter place bordering on Devon, Werrington Park, the seat of his Grace, the Duke of Northumberland. The house is rather a low building, and in point of architecture, is by no means imposing. The situation of the park, however, is particular fine, being highly diversified and embellished with some of the finest trees and foliage in the kingdom.

On entering St. Stephen’s, the attention of the traveller is immediately arrested by the handsome appearance of its Church, which is embellished with a handsome Gothic Tower, of great height. This edifice was rebuilt in the sixteenth century, and before the Conquest, was made collegiate; but suppressed through the influence of William Warlewast, Bishop of Exeter, who founded a Priory of Austin Monks in the adjoining parish of St. Thomas. This continued until the dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIII., when its annual revenues were valued at 354£. 0s. 11½d.; yet not a vestige of it has been in existence for many years.

A most interesting view of Launceston presents itself from the bridge of Newport, and the Keep of its venerable castle rises with awful dignity over the surrounding houses. The accompanying view is taken from the position alluded to.

Newport Church, generally called St. Thomas, is a small fabric of a very antient appearance, and here are several decayed houses, which exhibit the nature of domestic architecture a few centuries past.^[39]

After ascending a steep hill, and passing through the north gate, stands Launceston, one of the most antient towns in the county, on the great western road to the Land’s End, distant 214 miles from London. This town ranks as one of the principal in the county, and from the influence it formerly possessed, from being fortified with a noble castle and embattled walls, it has enjoyed in early reigns, many privileges and immunities; but was not, however, incorporated until the reign of Queen Mary, in the year 1555. It has returned members to Parliament, however, since the reign of Edward I. The right of election is in the Corporation and free Burgesses.

The assizes for the county were formerly held wholly in this town; but an act was passed in the first of George I. to empower the proper authorities to hold the summer assizes at Bodmin.

The magnificent ruins of the Castle are still highly interesting to the antiquary, and few subjects are better calculated for the pencil of the artist; their form being highly picturesque, and which are highly pleasing from being richly over-grown with ivy. The accompanying view exhibits the remains of the principal entrance, with the majestic and venerable keep rising above, together with the walls now fast falling to decay.

Regarding the origin of this antient fortress, little is known that may be deemed authentic; but, according to historians, it is said to have been in existence long prior to the conquest, which opinion is materially strengthened, from this neighbourhood having been the scene of many severe contests with the antient Britons and Saxons. After the conquest, it was given to the Earl of Morteyne, to whom no less than 288 manors in this county were also granted by William the Conqueror.

The remains chiefly consist of a Gateway, a small Tower at the south-east angle, some decayed walls and the keep. The latter is 93 feet in diameter, and the height of the parapet from the base of the conical rocky mount on which the keep stands, is upwards of 100 feet. The ascent to it is on the south side, but the steps are mostly wanting, and to get its summit is now become even dangerous. It consists of three wards, each surrounded by a circular wall; the outer one, or parapet wall, is not more than three feet thick; the second wall is about six feet from the former, near four times as thick, and considerably higher; but between these two, a staircase leads to the top of the ramparts. The inner wall is 10 feet thick, and 38 feet high, and the diameter of the inclosed area is about 18 feet. This is said to have been divided into two apartments, and the lower one, having no light, is supposed originally to have been a dungeon, but the whole pile has become so extremely ruinous, that it is impossible to state exactly how, and for what purpose it was originally constructed. The doorways of the keep are chiefly composed of round arches, and a curious Saxon doorway, now forming the entrance to the White Hart Inn, is supposed to have belonged formerly to the castle. Lysons, however, concludes that it came from the antient priory at St. Thomas, above alluded to.

This fortress, like most others in the county, had in former reigns a governor; but the mode in which buildings of this kind are in general constructed, render them ill calculated as places of residence. It appears that Launceston Castle was in ruins as early as the reign of Edward III., although it was a post of much consequence during the civil wars in after times. At the Restoration it was granted to Sir Hugh Pyper, Knt. (who lies buried in the church here,) and was in the possession of his grandson, till the year 1754. It now belongs to his Grace, the Duke of Northumberland.

The Church is a large handsome structure, composed of square blocks of granite, each of which is enriched with carved ornaments. The porch on the south side is particularly beautiful, and has a very striking appearance from the street adjoining. At the eastern end, also highly sculptured, is a curious figure of a Magdalene, in a recumbent posture. The interior contains several monuments, but none meriting particular observation. On the north side of the church is a very pleasant promenade sheltered by an avenue of trees, which is enlivened by a very extensive and beautiful prospect of the distant country.

Part of the old wall that surrounded the town and two Gateways still remain: the one on the eastern or Exeter road, has a very antient and interesting appearance. The accompanying view which represents this gateway, is taken from the road leading to Callington.

The houses in the town are in general well built, but the streets are very narrow and badly paved. There are two Charity-Schools maintained by voluntary subscriptions, and a Free School founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and endowed with an income payable out of the revenues of the Duchy of Cornwall.

The market at this town is well supplied with all kinds of provision, and remarkably cheap. There are also no less than six fairs, held here annually. The town suffers much inconvenience in the summer season, from a scarcity of water.

The number of inhabitants, according to the late returns, amounted to 2163, and in 1811 to 1758, exclusive of the adjoining parishes of St. Thomas and St. Stephen’s.

Trebursy, near this town, a handsome modern residence, erected some distance from the site of the old house, is the property of the Hon. W. Eliot, M.P. late Colonel of the Cornwall Militia.

From Launceston to Callington, the distance is about 12 miles, and the country, as far as the first nine miles extend, is very beautiful and romantic. About three miles from Callington, in the parish of Stoke Clainsand, is Whiteford House, the seat of Sir William Pratt Call, Bart. It is a handsome building, standing in a beautiful and luxuriant valley, which, with the meandering water in front, has a very pleasant aspect. The fish ponds and gardens here are extremely fine, and kept in a high state of cultivation.

Callington is a market and Borough-town, situated in a flat and open part of the county, distant 214 miles from London. The houses are chiefly disposed in one broad street, and being very irregularly built, have rather a poor appearance.

The Church is an antient and spacious fabric, consisting of three aisles, the centre one very lofty, and was built chiefly at the expense of Nicholas de Asheton, one of his Majesty’s Justices of the Court of King’s Bench, who died in the year 1645, and lies buried in the chancel, where there is a handsome brass plate with effigies of himself and lady.

There is also a handsome alabaster tomb, to the memory of Lord Willoughby de Broke, lord of the manor, who died in the year 1502. In the church-yard is a very antient octagonal cross, surrounded with some antient sculpture, but it has been most shamefully defaced.

This town is governed by a Portreve, who is chosen annually, at the court leet of the lord of the manor. The elective franchises of the inhabitants were lately determined by a committee of the House of Commons, but the members are usually returned by the freeholders and resident leaseholders.

Callington has a weekly market on Wednesday, and four fairs annually.

The prospects from the summit of Kitt Hill on Hengeston Downs, near Callington, are very extensive; comprehending the windings of the Tamar, the Hamoaze, Plymouth Sound, Mount Edgecumbe, and surrounding country. About five miles from Callington, in the parish of Calstock, is Cotehele or Cuttayle House, one of the most antient and curious constructed mansions in England. It is situated on a pleasing eminence on the western bank of the Tamar; but being almost surrounded with wood, the river can only be seen from some of the windows of the higher apartments. There is no account when this mansion was erected; but from the style of architecture, is supposed to have been built about the time of Henry VII. It is a very irregular pile of building, inclosing a small quadrangle, the approach to which is through a square gateway tower on the south side. At the north angle, is a large square tower, which contains the principal apartments.

This place from the beauty of its situation and other local circumstances, has excited great curiosity, and parties of pleasure make frequent water excursions to it in the summer: boats for such purposes are to be hired at Plymouth or Saltash.

The entrance hall opening from the quadrangle, is embellished with a collection of antient armour, and warlike instruments; and gives a true picture of the feudal dignity of antient times. The several apartments in the house are enriched with a great variety of curious old articles of furniture, such as carved ebony chairs, cabinets, &c. There is besides, some very fine tapestry, ornamented with the figures of Romulus and Remus, &c., in good preservation. The chapel connected with the dining room is small, and was originally ornamented with painted glass windows. The altar cloth, composed of rich velvet embroidered, is ornamented with the figures of the Twelve Apostles, and other appropriate embellishments.

This mansion has belonged to the Edgecumbe family since the reign of Edward III.; and here Sir Richard Edgecumbe, who was attached to the House of Lancaster, concealed himself from the tyranny of Richard III. In remembrance of his miraculous escape, he erected the small chapel which stands on a rocky precipice, close to the river.

In the month of August, 1789, their late Majesties, with the Princess Royal and the Princesses Augusta and Elizabeth, honoured this old mansion with a visit, and breakfasted with the Earl and Countess of Mount Edgecumbe.

Calstock Church stands about half a mile from the village, on a commanding eminence, and is a small antient fabric, containing several memorials of the Edgecumbes.

About a mile from the church, is Harewood House, the seat of Salisbury Trelawney, Esq. It is a handsome building, erected on one of the most delightful spots of the banks of the Tamar. Mason in his poem of Elfrida, has made Harewood the scene of the loves of Ethelwold, and of the misfortunes consequent to his union with the fair daughter of Edgar.

The village of Calstock is situated close to the side of the river, and here is a regular ferry to Beer Alston, in Devonshire.

About three miles from hence, is Pentillie Castle, the seat of John Tillie Coryton, Esq. which was erected a few years ago, from designs by Wilkins, on the site of an old family mansion. It is a very beautiful Gothic structure, with a majestic portico on the south side, surmounted with pinnacles, and being built on a bold eminence rising abruptly from the river Tamar, it really possesses a commanding and dignified appearance. The interior contains a number of spacious apartments finished in a handsome and costly manner.

The approach to the house is embellished with a neat Gothic Lodge, on the road leading to Saltash; and the grounds are enriched with a variety of beautiful plantations. In the grounds is a Tower or Sepulchral Building, erected for Sir James Tillie, whose interment here has given rise to a tale, that being of Atheistical principles, he had directed himself to be placed after his death, in a chair therein, with bottles, glasses, &c. to perpetuate his derision of a future existence. The fact however, of his being buried in a coffin, was proved a few years ago; and from his will, it is clear that he died in the “hope of a glorious immortality.”

From hence to Saltash, the distance is six miles, and about a mile and a half to the left, in the church of the village of Landulph, is the following remarkable inscription:

There is also a large tomb in the chancel, with a handsome marble slab to the memory of Sir Nicholas Lower and his lady.

The Parsonage House has been greatly improved, and commands a beautiful prospect of the river and Saltash. It contains a good library, and a few paintings by some of the antient masters. Much praise is due to the present incumbent, the Rev. F. V. I. Arundell, for having raised an embankment round the house, and for bringing the grounds into a high state of cultivation, and for improving the plantations.

About two miles from hence, in the parish of Botus Fleming, is Moditonham, the seat of Charles Carpenter, Esq. a commodious modern building, most delightfully situated, and commanding some extensive views of the surrounding country.

In the Church, a small venerable pile, is a recumbent figure of a crusader with a sword and target, which was accidentally discovered about three years ago, on the removal of some old wainscot.

In the centre of a field, at the north side of the village, stands a pyramidical monument, erected in memory of Dr. William Martin, of Plymouth, who died in the year 1762.

The town of Saltash principally consists of one long street rising abruptly from the Tamar, to a considerable eminence, and the houses in general have an antient appearance. It is a place, as Carew observes, which, owing to the steep ascent on which it is situated, “every shower washes clean.” It is also of great antiquity, and in the year 1393, the assizes for the county are said to have been held here. During the civil wars it was considered of much importance, being one of the principal passes into the county. It was first garrisoned by the Parliament, and surrendered without opposition to Sir Ralph Hopton, in the autumn of 1642. General Ruthen, finding it open after his defeat at Bradock-down, in January, 1643, took possession, and hastily fortified it; but it was soon afterwards taken by assault, by Lord Mohun and Sir Ralph Hopton: a garrison was left in it in the month of May that year, but on the approach of the Earl of Essex, it was given up the latter end of July, 1644. We are told that on this occasion Sir Edward Waldegrave gallantly defended the pass, and, as it appears, with temporary success. After the capitulation of Essex, Saltash was again taken possession of by Sir Richard Grenville: in the month of October following, it was taken by a detachment from the garrison at Plymouth: Sir Richard Grenville afterwards recovered it by assault: and it was finally abandoned by the King’s troops in the month of February, 1646.

Saltash is governed by a Mayor, six Aldermen, and an indefinite number of burgesses; but they generally amount to about 30. It was made a free borough in the reign of King John, or that of Henry III., by Reginald de Valletort, who confirmed to the burgesses various privileges which they had enjoyed under his ancestors: these privileges were confirmed by King Richard II. In the year 1682, Charles II. granted this borough a renewed charter of incorporation, under which the body-corporate was defined to consist of a Mayor and six Aldermen, styled the council of the borough, who had liberty to chose a Recorder: but the charter first mentioned, in virtue of which the town is now governed, was procured in 1774. It has returned members to Parliament since the reign of Edward VI. The right of voting is confined to the freeholders of the borough, amounting to about 70 persons. Some names of eminence appear in the list of its representatives; as Sir Francis Cottington, Edward Hyde, afterwards Earl of Clarendon, and Edmund Waller the poet.

The Chapel is an antient structure, having Gothic windows and a massive tower. It contains a handsome altar piece. In the north aisle there is a superb monument to the memory of three brothers, named Drew, officers in the navy, who were unfortunately drowned.

Saltash has a market weekly, and four fairs annually; and over the river is a constant ferry; boats are to be had at a short notice, for Plymouth Dock, or any place in its vicinity. The market mentioned as attached to the castle of Trematon, when the survey of Domesday was taken, was probably held at Saltash: it is spoken of in that survey as a new market of the Earl’s, which had been prejudicial to the Abbot’s market at St. Germain’s. The small weekly market for butcher’s meat is held on Saturday: an old writer says, that the burgesses claimed another market on Tuesday, but that it was not in his time held. The present fairs are on the Tuesday before each quarter-day, (the remnant, probably, of the Tuesday’s market,) February 2, and July 25: the two last are for horned cattle and sheep. The tolls of the market and fairs belong to the Corporation, who are entitled to the proceeds of the ferry over the Tamar, the privilege of dredging for oysters, the farm and tolls of oysters, and certain duties payable by masters of ships; which altogether produced about £300 per annum in 1714.

Leland speaks of “Asche (Saltash) as a praty quick market town. The tounesmen,” he says, “use boothe merchandise and fischery.” Norden says, “the towne increaseth daylie in merchandise and wealth: there belonge unto the towne some 8 ships besydes small boates. The haven is capable of anie burden. The great carrack that Sir Frauncis Drake browghte home so rich, arrived here, and was here disburdened, and after fatally fyred.”

The remains of Trematon Castle are situated on a commanding eminence on the northern bank of the river Lynher, just below Saltash, but the carriage road to it, a very pleasing ride, extends at least two miles from the town. Proceeding in the latter direction, about half way, the tower of St. Stephen’s Church has a conspicuous appearance. It is remarkable as containing a variety of antient memorials, but many of them are much defaced. Carew relates, that in the church of St. Stephen’s a leaden coffin was found about the middle of the sixteenth century; but the grounds on which he supposes it to have been that of Orgarius, Duke of Cornwall, are very weak; for it appears that all he learned from his informant, who had been an eye-witness of the discovery fourscore years before, was, that an inscription on the lead imported it to contain the body of a Duke, whose heiress married a Prince. One of the monuments in this church, is for Master Hechins, as Carew calls him, lessee of the great tithes in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The church was given to Windsor College by Edward the Black Prince.

On approaching the Castle, its venerable Keep arises majestically amidst the surrounding foliage, and with the little bridge and cottages in the valley, forms altogether a very picturesque subject. The entrance is through a small arch on the north side, and a circular road, leading to it, has been lately cut through the hill on which it stands. The site of the area covers more than an acre of ground, and is enclosed by embattled walls, six feet in thickness. The keep stands on the summit of a conical mound at the north-west angle, embattled with walls 10 feet thick and 30 high. The space enclosed is of an oval form, and was formerly divided into apartments, but as there are no marks of windows, they would appear to have been lighted from the top. The entrance to it was through a circular arched doorway on the western side, from whence an irregular path leads to a small sally-port; but the most perfect part of the building is the principal gateway, composed of three strong arches, with grooves for portcullises between them. These arches support a square tower, embattled, containing an apartment, which has been fitted up as a museum for natural curiosities. The walls are decorated with some of the finest tapestry in England, the colours being as bright as if it had only lately been finished.

Regarding the origin of this antient fortress, little is known, that may be deemed authentic; but it is generally believed, like most other buildings of a like nature, to have been originally erected prior to the Conquest. Afterwards it was given to Robert, Earl of Moreteyne and Cornwall, and in subsequent reigns was annexed to the Duchy of Cornwall. During the civil wars of the eighteenth century, we find no account of this castle’s having been occupied by either of the contending parties: but Carew relates, that during the Cornish commotions in 1549, Sir Richard Grenville held Trematon for a while against the rebels; but that having been induced to quit it, for the purpose of holding a parly with the beseigers, they intercepted his return, seized on the castle, sent him a prisoner to Launceston gaol, and plundered and ill-treated his lady and her attendants.—A few years ago it was leased to Benjamin Tucker, Esq. Surveyor General of the Duchy of Cornwall, and who was for many years Secretary to the gallant Admiral, Earl St. Vincent. This gentleman has erected a very comfortable residence within the area, and embellished it with a great variety of choice paintings and other works of art. Among the most valuable is “La fameuse Aurore de Natier,” a picture well known on the Continent, besides the Twelve CÆsars, by Goltzius. There is also the celebrated organ which was made by Mr. Moore, of Ipswich, for the Empress of Russia, at the price of £16,000, and a most beautiful specimen of shell-work, which was formed in the Brazils, and the construction of which is said to have occupied two nuns the whole of their lives. The garden round the house, is laid out with great taste, and embellished with a good hot-house. In one part of it, on a marble slab, is a bust of Admiral St. Vincent, with the following inscription from the eclogues of Virgil.

A short distance from the castle, near the ferry across Anthoney Passage, are some small remains of an antient Chapel, called Shillingham, which is richly over-grown with ivy.

The manor of Ashe-torre, or Esses-torre, the site of which is a rock at the bottom of Saltash town, abutting on the water, has an extensive jurisdiction, although it was itself held as seven fees under the honor of Trematon. Carew speaks of this rock as “invested with the jurisdiction of a manor, and that it claymed the suites of many gentlemen as his freeholders in knights’ service.” This manor, which extends its jurisdiction into several parishes in Cornwall and Devonshire, belonged to the ancient family of Fleming of Devonshire, Barons of Slane in Ireland: it was sold in the sixteenth century, by Nicholas and Robert Dillon, sons and heirs of Anne, one of the sisters and co-heiresses of Christopher Fleming, Baron of Slane, to Thomas Wyvell, Esq. from whose family it passed, by a female heir, to the ancestor of Francis Wills, Esq. of Saltash. The site of this manor is thus described in old papers:—“All that messuage, dwellinghouse, palace, &c. and waste ground in and nigh Ashe-torre Rock, with the remains of houses, on which premises manor-courts were held, all unconnected with any other person’s land, and forming a peninsula, situated at the bottom of Fore street or road, in the borough of Saltash, on a rock, part of which abutteth into the sea.”—A record of the year 1620 is said to have claimed Wadsworthy as parcel of the demesne of the manor of Ashe-torre.

Ince Castle, the seat of Edward Smith, Esq. is an interesting building, situated on the banks of the Lynher, and forms a conspicuous object in this part of the county.

Returning to the high road at the distance of three miles, is Landrake, the Church of which is remarkable for its high tower, which is visible for many miles round. In the interior is a curious brass plate, dated 1509, with an effigy of Edward Courtenay, Esq., and a monument to the memory of Nicholas Wylls, Gent., who died in the year 1607.

Wootton, an antient seat in this parish, has long since gone entirely to decay.

Near Landrake is Stockton, the seat of Admiral de Courcy, a modern mansion, commanding many interesting views. The interior contains a number of war-like instruments, and a variety of natural curiosities.

From Landrake to St. Germains, a decayed market and Borough-town, the distance is three miles. This place is remarkable as having been in early time, the seat of the episcopal government of the diocese of the county; and it takes its name from St. Germain, Bishop of Auxerre, who is said to have resided here for a time, during his visit to England. It is situated in a very romantic dell, on the borders of a creek formed by the river Lynher, about nine miles from Plymouth and eight from Liskeard; but is one of the largest parishes in the county, being 20 miles in circumference. It has been represented in Parliament since the year 1562; the right of electing the members being vested in the inhabitant householders, who have resided 12 months within the Borough. The town, as it is called, which contains less than 100 dwellings, is governed by a Portreve, chosen annually at the Court Leet. Leland spoke of it as “a poor fischar town,” and he adds, that “the glory of it stood by the priory.” Carew observed, “the church-towne mustereth many inhabitants and sundry ruines, but little wealth, occasioned eyther through abandoning their fishing trade, as some conceive, or by their being abandoned of the religious people, as the greater sort imagine.” Its market scarcely existed even when the survey of Domesday was taken; having been reduced almost to nothing in consequence of the Earl of Moreton’s market (most probably Saltash) then lately established in the neighbourhood. This market was at that time held on Sundays; but the day was afterwards altered to Friday: in Browne Willis’s time it was very inconsiderable, and has long been wholly discontinued. There are two cattle fairs, held May 28, and August 1.

Whitaker supposes the bishop’s see to have been established at this place, so early as the year 614. That St. Germains was the episcopal see as long as an episcopal see existed in the county of Cornwall, he has proved in the most satisfactory manner; but of its existence at that early period, his learned volumes on the subject of the Cathedral of Cornwall afford no proof; nor have we any intimation from history of any Bishop of St. Germains before the year 910, when Athelstan was appointed to that see. King Athelstan, who founded a college of Seculars here, made Conan Bishop of St. Germains in 936. After the death of Bishop Burwold, Livingus, Bishop of Crediton, procured this bishopric to be annexed to his own, and his successor Leofric made interest to have them both united to that of Exeter. Leland says, that Bartholomew (Iscanus) Bishop of Exeter, who died in 1172, changed the Monks of St. Germains into Canons Regular, on account of the laxity of their lives. At the suppression of this monastery in 1535, it was valued at £227. 4s. 8d. clear yearly income. King Henry VIII. leased the site of the priory and other lands to John Campernown and others; relative to which grant, Carew has the following story. “John Champernowne, sonne and heir apparent to Sir Philip of Devon, in Henry the Eighth’s time, followed the court, and through his pleasant conceits, of which much might be spoken, wan some good grace with the King. Now when the golden showre of the dissolved abbey lands rayned wellnere into every gaper’s mouth, some two or three gentlemen (the King’s servants,) and Master Champernowne’s acquaintance, waited at a doore where the King was to passe forth, with purpose to beg such a matter at his hands: our gentleman became inquisitive to know their suit; they made strange to impart it. This while, out comes the King: they kneel down; so doth Master Champernowne. They preferre their petition; the King grants it: they render humble thanks; and so doth Master Champernowne. Afterwards, he requireth his share; they deny it: he appeals to the King: the King avoweth his equal meaning in the largesse; whereon, the overtaken companions were fayne to allot him this priory for his partage.” Norden has strangely mistaken this story, and says, that King Henry VIII. bestowed the priory of St. Germains upon an ancestor of the Eliots, “being full of pleasant conceytes wherewith the Kinge was delited.” It is certain that the Champernownes became sole possessors of the priory estate, and that in 1565 they conveyed it to Richard Eliot, Esq., of Coteland, in Devonshire, in exchange for that manor. Sir John Eliot, son of Richard, was a distinguished patriot in the reign of James I., and an active opposer of the Duke of Buckingham and the court measures, particularly that of raising taxes without the consent of Parliament: for some bold speeches on this subject he was committed to the tower, where he died in the year 1632. Daniel Eliot, his grandson, left an only daughter, married to Browne Willis, the celebrated antiquary, by whom we are informed that his father-in-law, in order to keep up the family name, bequeathed his estates of Edward Eliot, grandson of Nicholas, fourth son of Sir John above-mentioned, from whom they descended to the present possessor.

It appears that the Cathedral, now the Parish Church, was first built in the reign of Athelstan, when it formed a part of the Priory, founded at the same time for Secular Canons. On the removal of the diocese to Exeter, the manor of St. Germains was divided between the Bishop and the Prior of the convent. On the Priory site a spacious mansion has been erected for the residence of the Eliot family, and is now the property of the Right Hon. the Earl of St. Germains. It is called Port-Eliot, but was formerly called Porth-Prior. The exterior is not very striking; perhaps “its simplicity,” says a late writer, “is more correspondent to the scenery by which it is surrounded, and which is rather to be called pleasing than picturesque or grand.” The interior, however, is embellished with some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Rembrant, Opie, &c.

The Church almost adjoins Port Eliot House, and in point of architectural beauty, is equal, if not superior to any in the county.

At the west end are two towers, both of which are said formerly to have been octagonal, but the south one is now of a square form, and contains the clock. Between the towers is a remarkably fine entrance doorway, or circular receding arch, 20 feet wide, with four pillars on each side, having plain square bases and capitals. The arch contains seven mouldings, with alternate zig-zag ornaments, which is also continued between the pillars. Over the arch is a pediment, with a cross at the top resembling an heraldic cross. Above are three narrow round-headed windows, and as great part of the edifice is richly mantled with ivy, it forms a very interesting and beautiful subject for the pencil. The interior is spacious; and the capitals of the pillars which divide the aisles from the nave, are curiously ornamented with Saxon sculpture. It contains a great variety of memorials, but the most remarkable are those for the learned Walter Moyle, who died at the age of 49, in the year 1721, and the superb monument by Rysbrack, in memory of Edward Eliot, Esq. who died in the following year. A white marble tablet, to the memory of Elizabeth, wife of John Glanville, Esq., has the following beautiful lines inscribed on it.

In the south aisle is a low ornamented recess, said to have contained the effigy of an abbot of the convent. Another recess is called the Bishop’s throne; and among other relics of antiquity, is preserved a curious carved oaken chair, supposed to have belonged to one of the monks.—“A great part of the chauncell” of this church, as Carew relates, “fell suddenly downe upon a Friday, very shortly after the publick service was ended, which heavenly favour, of so little respite, saved many persons’ lives, with whom immediately before it had been stuffed; and the devout charges of the well-disposed parishioners quickly repayred this ruine.”

Cuddenbeck the antient seat of the Bishops, has long been occupied as a farm, and now exhibits but little of its ancient episcopal grandeur.

Quitting St. Germains, at the distance of about a mile, is the direct coach road from Tor Point, and within four miles of Liskeard is Catchfrench, the seat of Francis Glanville, Esq., which being built on an eminence, has a commanding effect; although it is a very comfortable and spacious building, yet it does not possess much architectural beauty. The west front is embattled and faced with slate, and at a distance, with the surrounding scenery, has a pleasing effect.

The road from Tor Point to Liskeard is extremely hilly, and in many places even dangerous.

Coledrimick, another spacious mansion like Catchfrench, is also in the parish of St. Germains. It stands about a mile from the road, and within three miles of Liskeard.

Near this also on the right, is the village of Menheniot, the Church of which is a very large edifice with a lofty spire, visible at a considerable distance. This building contains memorials for the families of Carminow and Burell; J. Trelawney, of Coldrinnick, Dean of Exeter; and Lady Charlotte, daughter of James, Earl of Errol, Lord High Constable of Scotland, and wife of William Holwell Carr, B. D., incumbent of the parish, who died in 1801. The vicarage is one of the most valuable benefices in Cornwall, being endowed with the great tithes, subject only to an annual payment of £20 to Exeter College, Oxford. The Dean and Chapter of Exeter are patrons, but pursuant to the directions of Bishop Courtenay, must nominate a fellow of Exeter College. William of Wykham was vicar of this parish: and Dr. Moreman, a learned divine, who was instituted to the vicarage in the reign of Henry VIII., is said to have been the first in these parts who taught and catechised his parishioners in the English language.

The parish of Menheniot abounds with beautiful scenery; its numerous vallies being pleasingly diversified with rock and wood.

Here is a very antient and curious building called Pool, now occupied by the poor of the parish; but remarkable as having been the seat of the ancestors of the present Sir Harry Trelawny; though Carew speaks of it as being far beneath the worth and calling of its then possessor, Sir Jonathan Trelawny. It is now fast mouldering to decay, but displays some very interesting specimens of antient architecture. On the south front, which was the principal entrance, (and exhibited in the accompanying view) is a massive chimney, which age and other circumstances have inclined three feet from its perpendicular; and at this time perhaps, it is chiefly, if not wholly, supported by the ivy which grows about it.

Liskeard is a large and populous market town, situated on rocky hills, and partly in a bottom, about 16 miles from Plymouth, and 223 from London. This place ranks as one of the oldest towns in the county; and it had once a Castle, supposed to have been erected by one of the Earls of Cornwall. It stood on the north side of the town, and its site is still called the Castle Hill; but, even in Leland’s time, it was little more than a heap of ruinous walls. The manor of Liskeard formed a part of their ancient possessions; Liskeard having been made a free borough in 1240, by Richard Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans, who bestowed on the burgesses the same privileges which he had already granted to those of Launceston and Helston. His son Edmund, in 1275, granted them the fee of the borough, with the profits arising from the markets, fairs, &c., subject to a rent of £18 per annum, which rent King William III. granted to Lord Somers: it is now paid to Lord Eliot, who purchased it of the late Lord Somers.

The Church is a spacious edifice, standing on an eminence at the eastern entrance to the town. It is composed of three aisles, with a low embattled tower at the west end, on which are some curious grotesque heads. The southern part of the building is the most handsome, and over the porch are three Gothic niches. It contains but few monuments worthy of notice.—In the south aisle, is a neat cenotaph to the memory of Lieut. Joseph Hawkey, who was killed in action with some gun boats in the Gulph of Finland, in July 1809, in the 23rd year of his age. There is another for Joseph Wadham, who died in 1707, “being the last of that family, whose ancestors were the founders of Wadham College in Oxford.”

Liskeard has returned members to Parliament, since the reign of Edward the I.; the right of election being vested in the corporation and freemen. The former, according to the charter of Elizabeth, consists of a Mayor, Recorder, eight capital Burgesses, and 15 Assistants.^[40] In the list of representatives for this borough, we find the name of Lord Chief Justice Coke.

Leland speaks of the Market at Liskeard as “the best in Cornwall, savyng Bodmyn.” In his time the market was held on Monday, and there are still three great markets on that day; Shrove-Monday, the Monday after Palm Sunday, and the Monday after St. Nicholas’s Day. Browne Willis tells us that this market much exceeded that of Bodmin: it was then held, as it now is, on Saturday. It is most amply supplied with all sorts of provisions; a great portion of which is purchased for the supply of the market at Plymouth Dock. There are three large cattle-fairs; upon Holy Thursday, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, and St. Matthew’s Day. Liskeard is one of the four towns for the coinage of tin; but there has been no coinage held there of late years.

The Town Hall was erected about the year 1707, at the expense of Mr. Dolben, one of the representatives for the borough. It is a curious structure supported by granite columns; and the meat market is held in the space between them.

A new Market House is about to be erected on a very commodious plan.

The trade of the town is not of any particular description; but such as most country towns enjoy, where the neighbouring agriculturists carry on the farming business to a great extent. There is, however, a Paper Mill in the neighbourhood, which perhaps does not so particularly affect the place.

The population of the town, according to the late census, amounts to 1896, being an increase of but 101 persons, since the year 1811. Browne Willis speaks of Liskeard as the largest town in Cornwall, containing as he was informed, 1000 houses. He must have been much misinformed; as the population appears, by the parish-register, to have been considerably increased within the last century, and in 1801 there were but 323 houses, and 1860 inhabitants.

The town consists of several streets very irregularly built; still the houses are in general substantial, and slate-roofed. It has two good Inns, called the Bell, and the King’s Arms.

Here was formerly a Nunnery of Poor Clares, founded and endowed by Richard, Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans, but of which we have not been able to obtain any further account. A great part of the conventual buildings, known by the name of the Great Place, yet remains, converted into dwelling-houses; and the Chapel is now a bake-house.

A battle was fought near Liskeard on the 19th of January, 1643, between Sir Ralph Hopton, and the Parliamentary forces, in which the latter were defeated; Sir Ralph marching into the town with his army that night. King Charles, on his entrance into Cornwall in 1644, halted at Liskeard on the 2nd of August, and stayed there till the 7th.

A survey of the year 1337, in the Treasurer’s Remembrancer’s Office, speaks of a new Park at this place, in which were then 200 deer: it was disparked by Henry VIII., and the land which it comprised (still called the Park) is now held on lease by Lord Eliot. There was formerly a chapel in this park, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, to which there was a great resort of pilgrims.—There are three Meeting-houses in the town, belonging to the Independents, Quakers, and Methodists: the former was originally built by the Johnson family, for the Presbyterians. Defoe, in his Tour through Great Britain in the early part of the last century, speaks of it as a large new-built meeting-house; and observes, that there were only three more in Cornwall. A volume of Poems by the Rev. Henry Moore, some time minister of this Meeting, was published after his death, under the superintendance of Dr. Aikin.—The Grammar-School here is supported by the corporation, with a salary of £30 per annum: Dean Prideaux, and Walter Moyle, were educated at this school. A Charity-School for poor children, in which 10 girls are now taught, was founded by the trustees of the charitable donation of the Rev. St. John Eliot, who died in 1760, and endowed by them with £5 per annum.

The Church of St. Cleer, a village three miles north-west of the town, is an interesting fabric, with a lofty tower, surmounted with pinnacles at the angles, and the buttresses which support it are embellished with purfled fineals. The antient Well of St. Cleer, about a mile from the church, is a pleasing subject for the pencil, the top being richly overgrown with ivy. Near it is a Stone Cross, ornamented at the top with some rude sculpture.

In this neighbourhood are several other objects highly interesting to the antiquary. The Hurlers, when perfect, consisted of three circles of upright stones from three to five feet high, but several of them have been removed. According to historians, these monuments of antiquity are said to have been of Druidical origin; but the name of hurlers is most probably derived from an opinion among the common people, that the stones were once men, who were transformed for Hurling (a favorite game among the antient Cornish people) on the sabbath day.

The Cheese-Wring is a natural pile of rocks 32 feet high, of eight stones, or layers, apparently placed one above another, the largest at the top: considering its perilous form and exposed situation, how this pile has withstood the rage of storms for so many ages, is a matter of just astonishment.

The Cromlech, or Trewethy Stone, as it is generally called, standing on an eminence some distance from the Cheese-Wring, may be ranked as one of the greatest antiquities in the county. It consists of six upright stones, and one large slab, covering them in an inclined position. This impext measures 16 feet in length, and 10 broad, and is, at a medium, about 14 inches thick. It rests on five of the uprights only, and at its upper end it is perforated by a small circular hole. No tradition exists as to the time of its erection; but, its name at once designates its being a work of the Britons, and sepulchral.^[41]

The village of St. Neot’s, four miles from Liskeard, has long been celebrated for possessing a church, embellished with some of the finest painted glass windows in the kingdom. They amount to 17, and display various subjects connected with the legend of St. Neot, Portraits of Saints, the History of the Creation, &c., but some of them have unfortunately been defaced by ignorant or malicious depredators.

The Church is a handsome fabric, built of granite, and from the style of architecture is supposed not to be older than the reign of Henry VI. It stands on a rising ground at the head of the village, and has a dignified appearance, especially when contrasted with the humble dwellings near it.

A correspondent has favoured us with the following additional particulars relative to St. Neot’s:—

This village is about four miles west of Liskeard. Until the close of the ninth century, it was called Ham-stoke; from that period till the Conquest, or later, it had the name of Neot-stoke; it received its present name soon after. About the middle of the ninth century, St. Neot (a pious hermit, who had been Sacristan at Glastonbury Abbey) retired here. His pool is still shown; respecting which there are some curious traditions.^[42] The Saint erected a College of Priests, and a church here, (on the site of the more antient Chapel of St. Guerir,) in which he was buried in 877: the edifice was rebuilt in 884. The present Church was erected in 1480.^[43] It is an elegant building, consisting of a nave and two side aisles. Its greatest ornament is its beautifully stained glass; of which a considerable portion remains in a mutilated state. Many of the legends of these richly “storied windows,” have perished: Mr. Gorham^[44] has preserved 85: in 1786, Mr. Forster published a coarse outlined engraving of the windows, containing the legends of St. Neot, and of St. George.

On the north side of the Chancel (where was doubtless the Saxon Chapel) is a small recess, from which projected one end of a stone casket, 18 inches by 14. Here were preserved some remains of Neot; the founders of St. Neot’s Priory in Huntingdonshire, having left “one arm”^[45] of the Saint for the Cornish Church, when they stole the greater part of the treasure about 974! In October, 1795, this little cemetery was broken open by some intoxicated workmen, whose curiosity had been excited by a visit of Mr. Whitaker. The casket above-mentioned, was found to be a shallow cenotaph: behind it was a stone, closing the mouth of an aperture rudely formed in the solid wall; in this inner recess was discovered “about a quart of mould-earth, very fine in itself, yet adhering in clots, and dark in colour.”^[46] By the side of this cavity is a wooden tablet; on which are inscribed some quaint and puerile verses, supposed to have been written just before the Reformation: the narrative which they detail, is extremely inaccurate.

Returning from St. Neots to the high road, within four miles of Bodmin is Glynn House, the residence of E. J. Glynn, Esq., which has lately been rebuilt on the site of an elegant mansion, unfortunately destroyed by fire, about three years ago. This misfortune not only was a great loss to its worthy owner, but the literary world has suffered an irreparable one; for it contained one of the finest libraries in the county. The family also narrowly escaped, being all in their beds at the time, but were luckily apprized of their dangerous situation by a female domestic.—The present mansion is built at the bottom of a gentle declivity, in a very pleasing valley, and is therefore sheltered from the violence of the north-east winds. It is certainly a low structure, but contains a number of commodious apartments. The grounds round the house have been greatly improved, and now have a very pleasing aspect from the road.

After crossing an antient bridge over one part of the river Fowey, at Resprin, the antient mansion of Lanhydrock, situated at the head of a noble avenue of trees, nearly a mile in length, has a very striking effect. It is an embattled structure of granite, occupying three sides of a quadrangle, and the windows are divided by stone mullions. On the north side is a gallery 116 feet long, covered with a profusion of uncouth and ill-executed plastered figures. There are, however, a few family portraits, but none remarkable. In front of the house, is a large irregular building, with a fine circular arch, once a porter’s lodge; but as the owner of it, the Hon. Mr. Bagnal Agar, has not resided here for some years, the whole building is getting much out of repair, though as interesting a spot, perhaps, as any in the county.

The Church of Lanhydrock, almost adjoining the house, is a beautiful small edifice, with an embattled tower, finely mantled with ivy. The whole fabric has recently undergone a complete repair, and at the same time the antient character of the building has been judiciously preserved as much as possible.

The plantations in the grounds near the grand entrance lodge, are daily improving; and in a few years time will tend materially to the beauty of the domain.

About three miles from hence, is Bodmin, a large town, situated on the high western road, 243 miles from London, 30 from Plymouth, 21 from Launceston, and about 12 from the two channels on the north and south sides of the county. The late learned Mr. Whitaker, in his History of the Cathedral of Cornwall, has with much ability, proved the fallacy of the grounds upon which it was supposed to have been a bishop’s see; an error into which Dr. Borlase, Browne Willis, and other eminent antiquaries, had fallen; and has shewn very satisfactorily, that it was not the monastery at Bodmin, but another religious house dedicated to St. Petroc, near the sea-side, at Padstow, that was burnt by the Danes.

In early times, however, Bodmin possessed a Priory, a Convent of Grey Friars, and several other religious structures, of which there are now but few remains.

The Priory, which stood near the church, has gone entirely to decay, but a handsome modern house, called the Priory, erected on its site, is now the residence of Walter Raleigh Gilbert, Esq. This spot was first selected for religious retirement as early as the sixth century, by St. Guron and St. Petroc. It owed its origin to the circumstance of St. Petroc, its founder, having taken up his abode in a valley, now occupied by the town of Bodmin, but then the residence of St. Guron, a solitary recluse, who having resigned his hermitage to St. Petroc, it was by him enlarged for the residence of himself and three other devout men, who accompanied him with the intention of leading a monastic life according to the rules of St. Benedict. Here St. Petroc died before the middle of the sixth century. His shrine was preserved in a small chapel, attached to the east end of Bodmin church, as we learn from Leland and William of Worcester. The hermitage which he had founded, continued to be inhabited by monks of the Benedictine Order, till the reign of King Athelstan, who, in 926, founded, on or near the same spot, a priory of Benedictines: but this convent having been dissolved at an early period, and its possessions fallen into the hands of secular canons, Robert, Earl of Moreton and Cornwall seized them for his own use, and, after the death of his son William, Earl of Moreton and Cornwall, they became vested in the crown. Algar, to whom it is probable they had been granted, with the King’s license, and that of William Warlewast, Bishop of Exeter, re-founded the monastery, and replenished it with Austin Canons, who continued till the general dissolution of religious houses, when its revenues were valued at 270£. 0s. 11d. clear annual income. The Prior had, among other privileges, a market and fair, gallows, pillory, &c. as proved in a quo warranto, in the reign of King Edward I. The site, with the demesnes, was granted to Thomas Sternhold, one of the first English translators of the Psalms.—Various relics of antiquity have been found at different times on this consecrated spot; among which were some columns with ornamented mouldings and a mutilated effigy of a skeleton, finely executed, which has been placed against a gateway in the garden belonging to the Priory House.

The Convent of Grey Friars is said to have been founded in the year 1239, under the patronage of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, and principally supported by the benefactions of Sir Hugh and Thomas Peverell, of Egloshale, who were buried in the friary church. In the year 1565, it was conveyed to the Corporation of Bodmin, to whom it still belongs. Since the early part of last century, it has been fitted up as an Assize Hall, 150 feet long and 60 in height; but the removal of its two beautiful Gothic windows is to be lamented. The two ends are appropriated for the Courts of Assize, and the intermediate space for the business of the Corn Market, &c. Above is the Grand Jury Room, and a large Ball Room, often used during the races in August.

The only remains of the Chapel of Bery, is a ruinous tower, standing on a hill north of the town.

Some ruins of St. Leonard’s and St. Nicholas’ Chapels were standing when Dr. Borlase published his work on the Antiquities of the County; but they have long since been entirely removed.

The Church, which is the largest in the county, and stands at the north-east end of the town, on rising ground, was rebuilt in 1472, as appears by the inscription on the cornice of the south chancel, viz.

It is a handsome edifice, consisting of a lofty nave and side aisles, separated by clustered columns and pointed arches. The capitals of the pillars, which are of very fine moorstone, are ornamented with roses.

The Tower stands on the north side, and has a venerable appearance. Over the porch on the south side, there are three handsome niches. The whole building (particularly the interior) has, within the last seven years, undergone a thorough repair. It contains a fine altar-tomb, erected in memory of Prior Vivian, Suffragan Bishop of Megara, in Greece, who died in the year 1533, and on which is the effigy of the deceased in his pontifical robes, with a mitre and crozier, his hands clasped on his breast, and two angels supporting shields charged with the Vivian and Priory arms.

The Font is the most interesting piece of antiquity in the church, and of large dimensions. It is supported by a pedestal in the middle, and four pillars on the outside, with angel’s heads for capitals; and the basin in the centre is highly ornamented in the Saxon style, with grotesque animals, foliage, &c. A handsome painted window, by Lowe, of London, representing the Resurrection of our Saviour, will be put up in the course of a short time. It is the gift of Lord de Dunstanville, who is the patron of the vicarage.

A very particular account of the expense of rebuilding the church, is preserved among the town records. The whole cost, exclusive of presents of timber, amounted only to 194£. 3s. 6½d. The timber for St. John’s aisle cost 20£. 13s. 4d. Sir John Arundell gave several timber-trees for the building. The lead for roofing, came to 16£. 2s. 3½d. The rate of wages at this time appears to have been, for a labourer, four-pence by the day; for a mason, hewing stones, five-pence; for making the pillars, &c. sixpence; for a plasterer, five-pence half-penny. The following is a specimen of some of the charges:—“Forty-nine journeys (days work) for the windows above the Vyse, 24s. 6d.; fourteen journeys on the gabell window, 7s.” There was formerly a spire on the tower, said to have been built by Prior Vivian, and esteemed, as Tonkin tell us, the loftiest and finest in the West of England. It was destroyed by lightning in 1699.—Jasper Wood, 37 years vicar of Bodmin, who died in 1716, a man, it may be supposed, of deranged intellects, fancied himself bewitched, and that he was delivered from the witches’ power by his guardian-angel. Tonkin says there was a printed account of this man, and various traditions relating to him are still current in the town.

The Corporation consists of a Mayor, 11 Aldermen, 24 Common Councilmen, and a Town Clerk. This town was regularly incorporated by charter of Elizabeth, which was lost, by lapse, previously to the year 1798, when a similar charter was granted by his late Majesty.

The right of electing two representatives in Parliament is vested solely in the 37 members of the Corporation.

Among the antient corporation accounts, are the following curious items, relating to the election of members of Parliament, and the payment of their wages, in the reign of Henry VII.

“19, 20 Hen. VII, paide to Richard Watts and John Smyth, burgesses of the Parliament for the towne, 13s. 4d.

“Paide for the endentes for the burgesses of the parliament, 20d.

“Paide and yeven in malmesey to the under-sheryff, 4d.

“Paide for the makyng a payr of endentes and an obligation, 12d.

“It. Paide and yeven onto Thomas Trote in rewarde, 20d.

“It. Paide to Sir Richard Downa, the wich was promysed by the maier and the worshipfull in a reward towardes his wagys, 13s. 4d.

The town principally consists of one long street, running nearly a mile from east to west; the houses in general, are low, decayed, and irregular; but much improvement has been made within the last 20 years. Some centuries ago, Bodmin appears to have been of much greater extent, and more populous, than at present: it was probably largest, and contained the greatest number of inhabitants, about the fourteenth century. It is now smaller than either Helston, Liskeard, Megavissey, and Penryn; and considerably smaller than St. Austell, Truro, Redruth, Penzance, or Falmouth; yet in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it appears to have still taken precedence of all the other Cornish towns.

The Grammar School, said to have been founded by Queen Elizabeth, and endowed with 5£. per annum, (which the Corporation have increased to 100£. per annum) was held in an old chapel, in the church-yard, until the last year, when a new school-room was opened in a more commodious situation.

The population, according to the late returns, amounts to 2902, but the whole parish contains 3278, being 802 more than the number returned in 1811.^[47]

The market on Saturday is much frequented, and well supplied with provisions; but some judicious regulations are necessary, (particularly to remedy the want of a market house,) which would render it more generally useful and commodious. There are also three fairs held here annually, chiefly for cattle.

There was a market at Bodmin when the survey of Domesday was taken, the profits of which, belonging to the Prior, were then valued at 35s. per annum: the tolls were afterwards let at a fee-farm rent to the burgesses, in whom the market and fairs are now vested. Leland speaks of the market at Bodmin as being like a fair for the confluence of people; and Hals compares it, in point of supply of all kinds of provisions &c., to those of Exeter and Tavistock. The fairs, which are great marts for cattle and horses, are on the feast of the Conversion of St. Paul, Saturday after Midlent Sunday, Saturday before Palm Sunday, Wednesday before Whitsuntide, and on the feast of St. Nicholas the Bishop (December 6.) Leather-shoes are made in great quantities at this town, and exposed to sale in standings at the markets and fairs.

Bodmin is said to have been one of the coinage towns which had the privilege of stamping tin; but it appears that it had been lost before the year 1347, when the burgesses petitioned parliament, complaining, that although by royal charter they were authorised to deal in all kinds of merchandise, tin as well as other, in the county of Cornwall, they had of late been hindered by the Prince and his men from buying or coining tin: they were unsuccessful in their application, the answer of Parliament being, that the Prince might order the tin to be sold where he pleased.

The Summer Assizes for the county have been held in this town, with few exceptions, since the year 1716, and the Michaelmas Quarter Sessions are also held here.

The races usually commence the week following the assizes, and are held about a mile and a half from the town, on the left of the road leading to Launceston. The course is considered one of the finest in England.

The County Gaol was erected in the year 1780, from the designs of Sir John Cull, on the principles recommended by the great philanthropist, the late John Howard, Esq. It stands in a healthy situation, on the side of a hill, to the north of the town.

Within the last three years a very handsome and commodious Lunatic Asylum has been erected at the western end of the town, and is fitted up in a very comfortable manner, for persons afflicted with that dreadful malady.

The earliest historical event, of any importance, connected with this place, is, that it became the head-quarters of Thomas Flanmauck and Michael Joseph, the ringleaders of the rebellion of 1496, both of whom indeed appear to have been inhabitants of this parish.—Perkin Warbeck, after his landing in Cornwall, in the year 1498, assembled at Bodmin a force of 3000 men, with which he advanced to attack Exeter.—In 1550, the Cornish rebels, under the command of Humphry Arundell, encamped at Castle-Hynock, near this town, and marched thence to the siege of Exeter. After the suppression of this rebellion, which soon followed, Sir Anthony Kingston, the Provost-marshal, came, with the King’s commission, to punish some of the chief offenders; and, it is said, he hanged the mayor at his own door, after partaking of the hospitalities of his table.—Bodmin does not appear to have had any garrison during the Civil War, though it was occasionally occupied by both parties. General Fairfax finally took possession of it for the Parliament in 1646, a few days before the capitulation with Sir Ralph Hopton, near Truro.

At St. Lawrence, about a mile north-west of Bodmin, are some remains of the Hospital for Lepers, founded by Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1582, but which was abolished a few years since owing to certain abuses, and the lands belonging to it, worth about £140. per annum, appropriated to the Infirmary at Truro. The remains chiefly consist of three fine arches, springing from clustered columns, with ornamented capitals, and some ruinous walls, now fast mouldering into decay. On one part of the old buildings, is the following inscription:

The seal of this hospital is a curious relic of antiquity, containing the figure of St. Lawrence, under a Gothic canopy, and another figure below it, in the attitude of prayer, with this inscription:—“S. Sci Lawrencie Bodmons de peupo.”

St. Lawrence is merely a hamlet to Bodmin, but is remarkable as having two very large fairs for cattle annually.

At Lanhwit, the adjoining village, about three miles from Bodmin, are some remains of an antient Monastery, called St. Bennet’s, which, although greatly defaced some years ago, by the removal of the cloisters, still displays a fine tower, richly mantled with ivy. The other parts have been fitted up at the expense of the proprietor, the Rev. F. V. I. Arundell, as a family residence. The remains are seated in a narrow valley, almost surrounded by wood, with a rapid stream in the front, which adds greatly to the beauty of this romantic spot.

Tremere, an ancient seat of the Courtenays, in this parish, is now a farm-house.

A ride from hence to the Roach Rocks, will be highly gratifying to the curious traveller, or an admirer of natural curiosities. They consist of three immense piles of craggy ponderous stones, rising to a considerable height, and at a distance resembling an antient castle. On the summit of the pile, in the centre, stand the remains of a small building, which formerly contained two apartments, and is supposed to have been erected for religious purposes.

These rocks, says Dr. Maton, “consist of a white sparry quartz, mixed with schoerl, which appears in innumerable needle-like crystals. Two or three varieties of this substance are observable; in one the schoerl being more sparingly interspersed, and in another more abundantly.” A pile of rocks starting abruptly out of a wide green surface, and covering some space with enormous fragments, on which there are only a few vestiges of incipient vegetation, form a singular scene, exhibiting a kind of wild sublimity, peculiar to itself. The accompanying view was taken from the south side, and the chapel on the summit is a very beautiful and picturesque feature in the picture.