From the Land’s End to Stratton; through St. Ives, Camborne, Redruth, St. Columb, Padstow, and Camelford.

St. Just, about five miles from the Land’s End, is the first place of any note in this direction, and is situated about seven miles from Penzance; but chiefly remarkable as the birth-place of the celebrated Dr. Borlase, the historian of the Natural History and Antiquities of this county.^[29]

“The road to St. Ives,” says Dr. Maton, “when returning from the western part of the county, passes near numerous shafts of mines, which render a journey over this part of the country by night extremely dangerous. The moor stone or granite lies dispersed in detached blocks, many of them huge enough for another Stone Henge. Scarcely a shrub appears to diversify the prospect, and the only living beings that inhabit the mountainous parts are the goats, which browse the scanty herbage.”

St. Ives is a very antient and populous sea-port town, situated near the north-east angle of a very fine bay, about eight miles from Penzance; seven from Marazion; 13 north-west from Helston; 14 west from Redruth; and 277 from London. In antient records, this town was called Porth-Ia; and it is said to have derived its name from St. Hya, or Ia, an Irish saint, who came over to Cornwall accompanied by St. Breaca and others, and was buried in the church at this place.

It has a good Pier, erected by Smeaton, about 40 years ago; but the streets being very narrow, irregular, and dirty, the town has but a poor appearance in itself, yet when viewed from the environs, it has a very picturesque effect. It is also one of the Borough-Towns of Cornwall, and the right of electing the Members of Parliament, is vested in the Corporation and all the inhabitants of the town and parish paying scot and lot. According to the late returns, the parish contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants. A considerable traffic is carried on at St. Ives, with the Bristol merchants, besides the Pilchard Fisheries; but this port, like most others on the north coast, is much incommoded by the quantity of sand driven in by the north-west winds.

Speaking of St. Ives, Leland observes that “most part of the houses in the peninsula be sore oppressid or overcovered with sandes that the stormy windes and rages castith up there. This calamte hath continuid ther litle above 20 yeres.” Again he says, “the best part of the toun now standith in the south part of the Peninsula, toward another hille for defence from the sandes”. Norden describes the haven as much annoyed with sands, and unfit for receiving ships of any burden. “The town and port of St. Ives,” says Carew, “are both of mean plight; yet with their best means (and often to good and necessarie purpose) succouring distressed shipping. Order hath been taken,” he adds, “and attempts made for bettering the road with a peer; but eyther want or slacknesse, or impossibilitie, hitherto withhold the effect: the whiles plentie of fish is here taken and sold verie cheap.” Holinshed has mention of a light-house, and block-house, near St. Ives, to the following effect. On “a little byland cape or peninsula, called Pendinas, the compass not above a mile, standeth a Pharos or light for ships that sail by those coasts in the night. There is also a block-house and a peer on the east side thereof, but the peer is sore choaked with sand, as is the whole coast from St. Ives unto St. Carantokes.” There is still a battery on the eastern side, and the old pharos, which still exists, is used for depositing government stores.

Sir Francis Basset, member for this town in the reign of Charles I., gave the Corporation a handsome cup, on which is the following singular inscription:

This Sir Francis Basset, (who was of Tehiddy) procured for St. Ives, from King Charles, in the year 1639, its first charter of incorporation; under which the body-corporate consisted of a Mayor, 12 capital Burgesses, and 24 inferior Burgesses: but by the subsequent charter of James II., granted in 1685, the Corporation consists of a Mayor, Recorder, Town clerk, 10 Aldermen, and 12 Common-council-men. Four of these are Justices of the Peace, and hold a Sessions. It appears that before the incorporation, the chief officer of this town was called the Mayor or Portreeve; and it is said that one Payne, who held that office in the reign of Edward VI., was executed by order of Sir Anthony Kingston, for being concerned in Arundell’s rebellion.^[30] The Borough has sent members to Parliament ever since the reign of Philip and Mary.

The Rev. Jonathan Touss, the learned annotator on Sudidas, and editor of Longinus, was born at St. Ives, and died at the age of 72, in the year 1785, after being 34 years rector of St. Martin’s, near Looe.

The Church is a low antient fabric, situated near the seashore, and contains a curious Font, the body of St. Ia, the foundress of the church, and the patroness of the town.

On the summit of a hill, near the town, is Treguma, a modern castellated building, the seat of S. Stephens, Esq. which commands a fine prospect of the sea. About a mile from the house, is a pyramid erected to the memory of the late John Knill, Esq., of Gray’s Inn, London, and secretary to Lord Hobart, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, who by will, directed that at the end of every five years, an old woman, and 10 girls under 14 years of age, should walk in procession with music, from the market-house at St. Ives, to this pyramid, round which they should dance and sing the 100th Psalm, and for which purpose he gave some freehold lands.^[31]

About four miles from St. Ives, at a place called Hayle, situated on the eastern bank of the river of that name, were, till lately, several houses for smelting copper, but which have been discontinued, owing to the too great expense necessary to be incurred. The process of smelting the ore and rolling the metal, was brought to great perfection at these works, but materially effected the constitution of the poor men employed in them. A very considerable trade is however carried on at Hayle, in timber, iron, limestone, and Bristol wares.

On the west side of the harbour, is Trevethoe, the property of Wm. Praed, Esq. The house stands in a very pleasant situation, and the grounds have been much improved by the introduction of the pine-aster fir, which flourishes extremely well in this part of the county.

The county between this place and Redruth, has long been celebrated for its numerous mines, some of which have produced a golden harvest for their proprietors, and have given employment to many hundred persons.

In the midst of them stands Camborne, which has in consequence become a considerable market town, and has four fairs annually. The market-house was erected at the expense of Lord de Dunstanville.

The Church is an antient fabric, and contains some elegant memorials of the Pendarves family, a handsome marble altar-piece, and a curious carved stone pulpit; but its antient font has been removed to the gardens at Tehiddy. According to the late returns, the population of Camborne is stated at 6219, or an increase of 1005, during the last 10 years.

Pendarves, in this parish, the seat of Edward William Wynne Pendarves, Esq. is a large handsome building, situated on a commanding eminence, and has lately undergone many judicious improvements.

About four miles to the left of the road to Redruth, and the same distance north-west of that town, is Tehiddy Park, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord de Dunstanville, which forms a noble feature in this part of the county. It is a handsome edifice, chiefly built of Cornish free-stone, with detached wings at the angles, and erected in the early part of last century. It is embellished with a number of fine paintings, of which the following are most worthy of notice.

King John signing Magna Charta.—Miller.

The Cascade of Terni, and another of the

Cascatellis of Tivoli, with Mecoenuskilla.—More.

The Lake of Nirni.—Dulancy.

The Death of Lucretia, & a Venus and Cupid.—Gavin Hamilton.

The Three Graces.—Rubens.

A Philosopher with a skull in his hand.—Rembrant.

A Nativity, and a Flight into Egypt.—G. Bassan.

Herodias, with the Head of John the Baptist.—Bonomi de Ferrari.

Sketch of our Saviour appearing to St. Bruno.—Lanfrane.

A small picture of a Nun.—Carlo Dolcii.

A Battle Piece.—Burgognon.

Portrait of a Venetian Senator.—Pordenon.

A whole-length Portrait of Gen. Massey.—Vandyke.

Ditto of Sir Francis Basset, Vice-Admiral of Cornwall.—Ditto.

Chief Justice Keybridge and his Wife.—Peter Lely.

Lady Masters, aged 74, sister to Sir Francis Basset.—Godfrey Kneller.

The late Sir John St. Aubyn and the late Francis Basset, Esq.—Hudson.

Lord de Dunstanville and his Lady.—Gainsborough.

Ditto, when about 18 years of age, in a vandyke dress.—Sir Joshua Reynolds.

Sir John St. Aubyn.—Ditto.

John Prideux Basset.—Ramsey.

The extent of Tehiddy Park amounts to about 700 acres, and the grounds have been much improved and beautified by extensive plantations, since the present nobleman succeeded to this estate.

Two miles south of Tehiddy, and within the same distance of Redruth, is Carn-bre’ Hill, a very interesting spot, and considered by Borlase, (from the numerous remains of cromlechs, basons, circles, and kairs, in its vicinity) to have been the principal seat of Druidical worship in this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding many other writers have coincided in this opinion, yet it is evident from the observations of one of the most learned Antiquarians, that these remains do not exhibit a complete system of Druidical worship, and Dr. Maton also observes, “these rocks exhibit awful vestiges of convulsions, and the immense detached masses of granite, which appear about to roll down their declivities, awaken sublime ideas in the mind of a spectator.” Neither is there any appearance of systematic designs in the remains alluded to.

On the eastern side of the hill, stands Carn-bre’ Castle, erected on a vast ridge of rocks, which not being all contiguous, are connected by arches turned over the cavities. One part of this fortress is very antient and pierced with loop holes, but the other seems more modern, and is supposed to have been erected to embellish the prospect from Tehiddy, and from its elevated situation, being nearly 700 feet above the level of the sea, commands a most extensive view of the surrounding country. In the year 1749, several gold coins and other relics of antiquity, were found in digging a part of the hill, and a plate of them is given in Borlase’s Work.

Redruth, which is supposed to be one of the most antient places in the county, is now become a very considerable and populous market town. It principally consists of one long street, built on the side of an eminence, in the very bosom of the mining district.

The Church, which was rebuilt about 50 years ago, is a neat edifice, standing nearly a mile from the town; and the rectory is in the gift of Lord de Dunstanville.

Redruth has two markets weekly, and three fairs annually. The population of the parish, according to the late returns, amounts to 6,000.

Scorrier House, about two miles from Redruth, the seat of John Williams, Esq., contains a very valuable collection of minerals.

The country between Redruth and St. Agnes, appears extremely desolate and barren, as a late writer has observed—“like the shabby mien of a miser, it’s aspect does not correspond with its hoards;” since there are more mines in this part of the county, than any other.

St. Agnes is a small town, on the northern coast, nine miles from Truro, and 267 from London, and had formerly a considerable harbour, now choaked up with sand; and the quay has been partly washed down by the impetuosity of the waves, but is now in tolerable repair.

The lover of the picturesque, however, will be highly pleased at the grandeur of the rocks, which face the shore at this part of the coast; and here is a remarkable stupendous mountain, called St. Agnes’ Beacon, rising pyramidically to the height of more than 600 feet above the level of the sea. The beacon on the top is greatly dilapidated, yet is particularly valuable to vessels passing this coast. An antient well at this place, has been much extolled, and many miraculous stories are told regarding its virtues.

St. Agnes has to boast of the birth of that celebrated painter, Opie, and one of the members of the Royal Academy, who died so much lamented, at an early age. His Lectures on Painting have since been published, with his portrait, and are highly interesting and useful to the artist.

The Church is an antient edifice, and is consolidated with the vicarage of Piranzabuloe, being in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Exeter. There are also several antient manors in this parish. The population, according to the late returns, amounted to 5,762, being an increase of 738, since the year 1811.

In Piranzabuloe, the adjoining parish, is of a circular amphitheatre, with a rampart and fosse surrounding it, called Piran Round. The area is about 130 feet in diameter, and it is supposed to have been originally designed for the performance of Cornish interludes, or where plays were acted.

Perraw Porth in this parish, is much resorted to during the bathing season, on account of its fine sandy beach, &c.

Trerice in Newlyn, is one of the most interesting antient buildings in the county, and although going to decay, still displays much of its original grandeur. The principal entrance hall being very spacious, is lighted by a fine large window of 24 compartments, and over the chimneypiece in the drawing-room, (which is in a very deplorable state,) are the arms of the Arundel family, who resided here at a very early period. It is now the property of Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart., and at present is occupied by a respectable farmer.

About three miles from hence, in the parish of St. Columb Minor, are some considerable remains of Railton Priory, and which is said to have been founded by Prior Vivian of Bodmin, who is noticed in a subsequent part of this work.

The remains are seated in a romantic valley, and principally consist of the entrance gateway, and an inner court with an embattled dwelling, lighted with three Gothic windows. There is also a very antient Well, at the back of which is a curious carved niche, with a pedestal for an image. At different parts of the building are several coats of arms of the founder, and a stone with some curious characters upon it. The accompanying view exhibits the most interesting and entire part of this religious building.

Quitting this sequestered spot, on ascending the hill leading to St. Columb, on the left, stand the ruins of Nanswhyden House, the seat of the late Robert Hoblyn, Esq., and which was unfortunately destroyed by fire, in 1803, together with the whole of the furniture in it. The house was one of the handsomest buildings in the county, and erected from the designs of Potter, at an expense of upwards of £30,000. It had a very valuable library, which fortunately escaped this catastrophe, having been sold before by auction in London, after the sale lasting 25 days. The catalogue was embellished with a portrait of the owner, and is now a valuable relic of literature.

At Mawgan, a romantic village three miles north-west from St. Columb, is Lanherne, formerly the residence of the Arundels; but remarkable as being the abode of several Carmelite Nuns from Antwerp, and the only nunnery now existing in this county. It is a very antient building, and contains a neat Chapel adorned with a few good paintings, brought hither at the time the nuns emigrated to this country. The east front of the house being the principal, displays much of its original character, but the whole is an interesting pile of building. It is now the property of Lord Arundel, of Wardour Castle, who takes great pleasure in affording an asylum, and attending to these unprotected women:

The nuns are very strict and regular in their devotions, and employ their leisure time in the manufacture of fancy articles, which are disposed of to those persons who visit the place. Although this indulgence is allowed, the nuns are seldom seen, except at a funeral, when the whole of them attend the corpse, to the end of the lawn in front of the house.

The Church of Mawgan almost adjoins Lanherne, and is a very antient fabric, containing a great variety of curious brass monumental inscriptions, but several of them have been defaced. The carving of the screen which separates the chancel, is a fine piece of workmanship. In the church-yard stands a very curious and antient Gothic Cross, on the east side of which is a niche containing the Crucifixion, sculptured in pretty high relief. In the niche on the west side, is carved a subject, taken no doubt from some legend, consisting of the figures of a king and queen; the latter in the dress of the fourteenth century, kneeling on one side before a desk. On the other side, is a large bolt with a serpent coiled round it, which seems to be biting the face of the king, whilst an angel holds its tail.^[32] The whole is in tolerable fine preservation, but for whom, or for what purpose it was erected, has never been ascertained.

Carnanton, in this parish, the seat of James Willyams, Esq., is a neat and commodious building, but almost surrounded by trees. An earthen vessel was lately found near this house, containing near 700 silver English coins of different reigns, in fine preservation.

Trewan, the seat of Richard Vyvyan, Esq, the late Sheriff for the county, is situated on the brow of a hill facing the south, commanding a fine view of the town of St. Columb. It is an irregular building of granite, said to have been erected in the year 1633, and the interior contains several handsome apartments; but the drawing room being richly ornamented with sculpture, representing the principal events of the Book of Genesis, is highly deserving of notice.—There are also a few good portraits, and a fine picture of a Shipwreck, by Vandervelde.

St. Columb Major, as it is called, to distinguish it from a parish of the same name adjoining the village, but of less consequence, is a considerable market town; and although not situated on the high mail road to Truro, yet is a town of some importance on the northern side of the county. It is built on an eminence, and contains a few good houses; the Market-house has an antient appearance. It is situated 11 miles north-west of Bodmin, and 15 from Truro; but after leaving the regular high mail road, the other roads winding to the town are very bad and dirty.

The Church is a large antient fabric; but has, perhaps, been injudiciously altered from its original design. The interior contains a variety of memorials, one of which has a handsome bust of the deceased Robert Hoblyn, Esq. of Nanswhyden, who represented the City of Bristol in three Parliaments, and died in the year 1756. The living of St. Columb is the best in the county, and computed to be worth at least £2000 per annum, and in the gift of the Rev. George Moore, of Garlennick, near Grampound.

The population of the parish, according to the late returns, amounted to about 2,493. It has a market every Thursday, and two fairs annually.

About two miles from the town, to the left of the road leading to Bodmin, but in St. Columb parish, is Castle-an-Dinas, a noble entrenchment, originally fortified with three circular walls, and an immense ditch. It is generally supposed to have been constructed by the Danes, and was a permanent fortified residence of some Scandinavian Chief. The diameter of the space enclosed, is 400 feet; and the principal ditch is 60 feet wide. Castle-an-Dinas, Dr. Borlase says, consisted of two stone walls, built one within the another, in a circular form: the ruins he describes as fallen on each side the wall, shewing the work to have been of great height and thickness: he also mentions a third wall, built more than half way round, but left unfinished. This remain is seated on the highest hill in the hundred of Penwith.

From St. Columb to Padstow, the distance is eight miles, but the country between those places does not present any thing deserving particular observation.

Padstow has long been noted as the principal sea-port town on the north coast of Cornwall, and in a commercial point of view is of the greatest advantage to the county. Here also the first religious house was founded by St. Petreock, as early as the year 432. It is situated 11 miles from Bodmin, and about 243 from London, and is noted as one of the most antient places in England. The town is built on the western side of the harbour, sheltered by an immense hill, and at high water has a pleasing appearance.

A very considerable trade is carried on here in iron, coals, timber, groceries, and merchandize in general. Padstow has a market weekly, and two fairs annually. These are now little more than mere holiday fairs; though within these 60 years they were well supplied with cattle, cloth, hats, &c. Leland, speaking of this town, says—“There use many Britons with smaul shippes to resorte to Padestowe, with commodities of their countrey, and to by fische: the town of Padestowe is ful of Irisch men: there is a large exporte of corne.” Carew again says—“It hath lately purchased a corporation, and reapeth greatest thrift by traffiking with Ireland, for which it commodiously lieth.” We have not been able to learn any thing about the charter of corporation alluded to by Carew, and are assured that the town has no such charter. The principal import-trade, for iron, is from Cardiff; coals, from Wales; timber, from Norway; and groceries, and bale goods, from Bristol: and considerable quantities of corn are still exported; the other principal exports are malt and block-tin.

In the Church, an antique building, situated at the head of the town, are several handsome memorials: that of Sir Nicholas Prideaux, Knt., who was Carew’s contemporary, and died in 1627, commemorates also Sir William Morice, who married a daughter of Humphrey Prideaux: “he was knighted,” says his epitaph, “by King Charles II., on his landing at Dover, and afterwards made Secretary of State and a Privy Counsellor, in consequence of his great services in bringing about the Restoration, by his influence with General Monk. He died at Werrington, in 1676, aged 75.” The learned Dr. Humphrey Prideaux, Dean of Norwich, was a grandson of Sir Nicholas above-mentioned, and was born at Padstow, in 1648. Dr. Prideaux, who was educated at Liskeard school, besides his well-known work on the connexion between the Old and New Testaments, published “The True Nature of Imposture fully displayed in the Life of Mahomet.”—The Font, in this antient building, is in itself a curious relic of antiquity, decorated with effigies of the twelve Apostles.

There are several antient Chapels in this parish. That of St. Saviour, of which the east wall remains, stood on the brink of the precipice which overlooks the town: near Place-house, at the top of the town, was St. Sampson’s chapel: at Trethyllic, near Place grounds, was a chapel with a cemetery: between St. Saviour’s, and Stepper-point, was another chapel, the name of which is not known: and about a mile and a half from the town, that of St. Cadock, which had a tower, the pinnacles of which were used in rebuilding that of Little Petherick church.

One of the schools founded by the trustees of the Rev. St. John Elliot’s charitable donations (1760;) and endowed with £5 per annum each, was established in Padstow. Two Sunday-schools, and several Day-schools, have also been established; by which several institutions for relieving the poor, and encouraging the industrious, are supported.

Padstow contains, according to the late returns, 1702 inhabitants, or an increase of 204, since the year 1811.

On Sander’s Hill, a handsome residence was erected a few years ago, at a very considerable expense, by the late Thomas Rawlings, Esq., but which is about to be taken down, owing to the death of that gentleman, and as the property cannot be disposed of.

Place-House, the seat of the Rev. Charles Prideaux Brune, situated a little distance above the church, is an antient embattled mansion. It contains a few remarkable fine family portraits, and other works of art. The house has been lately beautified and enlarged at a considerable expense, and may now be ranked as one of the finest residences in the county. The western front with its circular tower and Gothic library window, has a very handsome effect.

The Rocks off the coast in the neighbourhood of Padstow, and the sand banks on the coast, not always visible at low water, have been the cause of many shipwrecks, and scarcely a winter passes without the occurrence of such dreadful calamities. The Rev. Mr. Warner, in his Tour through Cornwall, speaking of the dangerous rocks off this coast, says, “their black perpendicular heads frown inevitable destruction on every vessel that approaches them, and seldom does one of the unhappy crew survive to tell the horrors of the wreck.”

Quitting Padstow, the lover of the picturesque will be much delighted with the village of Little PETHERICK, where a bridge across the road, an old mill, the church, a few rustic cottages, and some luxuriant foliage, form a picture highly interesting.

After crossing the river Camel at Wadebridge, over which there is a bridge, built in the year 1485, of 17 Gothic arches, and 320 feet long, in the parish of Egleshale, is Peucarrow, the handsome seat of Sir Arscott O’Molesworth, Bart. The house has lately undergone a complete repair, and is fitted up in an elegant style, with a good library, billiard room, and the usual comforts attached to a gentleman’s residence. Here are also a few good pictures, but mostly portraits. The gardens and hot-houses are very beautiful, and kept in excellent order.

In the Church of Egleshale, is a very handsome carved stone pulpit, and a neat monument to the memory of Sir John Molesworth and his lady.

The road from hence to Camelford, a distance of 11 miles, contains little to interest the traveller, excepting perhaps, the celebrated Slate Quarry of Delabole, in the parish of St. Teath, and which has been already described in page 7.

The town of Camelford is a place of considerable antiquity, and has returned members to Parliament, since the reign of Edward VI. The right of election is vested in the freemen, and the town is governed by a Mayor and eight Burgesses.

Although it is a place of but little trade, yet it has a market weekly, and four fairs annually, at which great quantities of cattle are bought and sold.

The Town Hall is a neat structure, built a few years ago, at the expense of the late Duke of Bedford.

According to tradition, the neighbourhood of Camelford is remarkable as having been the site of a memorable battle fought between King Arthur and his treacherous nephew, Mordred; in which the former was slain, and his troops routed with considerable loss.

About five miles north-west of Camelford, is Tintagell, in which parish, the small Borough-town of Bossiney is situated; but as far as regards appearances, this town can only rank as a village of the meanest description, although it has returned members since the reign of Edward VI. It contains about 140 houses, but the number of voters seldom exceed 14 or 15, the right of election being chiefly confined to certain individuals possessing the property.

Among its noble representatives are ranked the great Sir Francis Drake, Sir Thomas Cottington, Secretary of State to Charles I., and Sir Richard Weston, afterwards Earl of Portland and Lord Treasurer in the same reign.^[33] But the most interesting circumstance relative to Tintagell, is its being the reputed birth-place of the renowned King Arthur; respecting whom, it was the opinion of Lord Chancellor Bacon, that there was truth enough in history to make him famous, besides that which was fabulous. His history, however, has been so blended with the marvellous, by the monkish historians, that some authors have been disposed to doubt even his having ever existed; and certainly the circumstances connected with his asserted birth at Tintagell, are not among those parts of his story which are most entitled to credit.

The certainty, however, that there has been a Castle at this place, cannot be imaginary, even if we only judge from the ruins now existing; but as far as regards its origin, there are many different accounts, and none, perhaps, whose authority can be relied on. That there should have been a castle erected here, in the time of the antients, is very probable, as few places are so well calculated for the mode of warfare then in practice. The commanding and open situation of this spot, with other concurrent circumstances, leave but little doubt that this fortress was erected long previous to the Conquest. “The ruins now existing, consist of two divisions, one scattered over the face of the main promontory, and another over the peninsula, which is severed from it. The walls of the former are garetted and pierced with many little square holes, for the discharge of arrows. They seem to have included within them, two narrow courts. At the upper end of the most southern of them, are the remains of several stone steps, leading probably to the parapet of the walls. Here the ramparts were high and strong, this being the quarter overlooked by the neighbouring hill. As they wound round to the west, however, less labour had been expended upon their structure, for a hideous precipice of 300 feet deep, to the edge of which they were carried, prevented the fear of any assault in that quarter. The works on the peninsula had been anciently connected with those on the mainland, by a draw-bridge thrown across the chasm, in the division above mentioned.”^[34] This however had gone to decay in Leland’s time, and the only means of approaching this part are by a dangerous and narrow ascent, winding up the cliffs on the western side.

Leland’s description is curious.—“This castelle hath bene a marvelus strong and notable forteres, and almost situ loci inexpugnabile, especially for the dungeon, that is on a great high terrible cragge, environed with the se, but having a draw-bridge from the residew of the castelle unto it. There is yet a chapel standing withyn this dungeon of S. Ulette alias Ulianne. Shepe now fede within the dungeon. The residew of the buildinges of the castel be sore wetherbeten and yn ruine, but it hath beene a large thinge.” In another place he says—“The castel had be lykhod three wardes, wherof two be woren away with gulfing yn of the se: withowte the isle renneth alonly a gate howse, a walle, and a fals braye dyged and walled. In the isle remayne old walles, and yn the est parte of the same, the grownd beyng lower, remayneth a walle embatteled, and men alyve saw ther yn a postern, a dore of yren. There is in the isle a prety chapel, with a tumbe on the left syde.” Carew’s and Norden’s accounts of Tintagell castle are nearly similar; the latter of these, indeed, appears to have been taken from the former. “Half the buildings,” says Carew, “were raised on the continent, and the other halfe on an iland, continued together (within men’s remembrance) by a drawebridge, but now divorced by the downefaln steepe cliffes, on the farther side, which, though it shut out the sea from his wonted recourse, hath yet more strengthened the iland; for in passing thither you must first descend with a dangerous declyning, and then make a worse ascent, by a path, through his stickleness occasioning, and through his steepnesse threatning, the ruine of your life, with the falling of your foote. At the top, two or three terrifying steps give you entrance to the hill, which supplieth pasture for sheepe and conyes: upon the same I saw a decayed chappell. Under the iland runs a cave, through which you may rowe at full sea, but not without a kinde of horrour at the uncouthnesse of the place.” Norden is rather more particular in his description of the ascent to the island “by a very narrow rockye and wyndinge waye up the steepe sea-clyffe, under which the sea-waves wallow, and so assayle the foundation of the ile, as may astonish an unstable mayne to consider the perill, for the least slipp of the foote sendes the whole bodye into the devouringe sea; and the worste of all is the highest of all, nere the gate of entraunce into the hill, where the offensive stones so exposed hang over the head, as while a man respecteth his footinge, he indaungers his head; and lookinge to save the head, indaungers the footinge accordinge to the old proverbe; Incidit in Scyllam qui vult vitare Charybdim. He must have his eyes that will scale Tintagell. Most of the iland buyldings are ruyned.” It appears by the view of Tintagell annexed to Norden’s description, that a great part of the building on the main land was in his time standing.

The immense height of the cliffs on which these ruins are situated, the desolated aspect of the surrounding country, and the grandeur of the ocean raging beneath, all conspire to form a scene truly sublime, and cannot fail to make a lasting impression on the mind of those who have visited this interesting spot.

After the Conquest, Tintagell Castle became the occasional residence of several of our English Princes, and here Richard, Earl of Cornwall, entertained his nephew, David, Prince of Wales, when the latter rebelled against the King in 1245.

In subsequent centuries, almost within a few years of the commencement of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it had, like other fortresses in this county, a governor, (being annexed to the Duchy of Cornwall) and was occasionally used as a state prison. The remains are now fast mouldering to decay; and in a few years, perhaps, not a vestige will be standing, to shew where grandeur had once usurped its despotic power.

The Church of Tintagell was formerly appropriated to the abbess and convent of Fontevralt in Normandy, and having passed in the same manner as Leighton-Buzzard in Bedfordshire, was given by King Edward IV. to the collegiate church at Windsor; the Dean and Chapter of which church have now the great tithes, and are patrons of the vicarage. There were chapels in this parish dedicated to St. Piran and St. Dennis, besides that in the castle of Tintagell.

At Tintagell is a Charity-school, supported by the mayor and free burgesses, who pay a salary of £10 per annum to the master.

About two miles from hence, over a rocky road, is Boscastle, a small village, in a very romantic situation. Here a pilchard fishery has been established some years, but with little success to the adventurers.

The Quay has been greatly improved, and several new buildings erected.—This place had formerly a Castle, the antient residence of the Bottreaux family; but it was entirely gone prior to Leland’s time.

In the Church is the following epitaph for the Rev. W. Cotton and his wife, who died within a short time of each other.

The road from hence to Stratton, is highly pleasing, and presents many fine prospects of the surrounding country.

The village of St. Mary Week is noticed by Carew, as the birth-place of Thomasine Bonaventure, who, although a poor cottager’s daughter, had the good fortune to marry for her last husband, (the last of three,) Sir John Percival, a wealthy merchant, and Lord Mayor of London; at whose death she became possessed of a large property. She retired to this, her native village, where she spent the remainder of her life and fortune in acts of unbounded charity.

Stratton is a small market town, standing rather in a low situation, 223 miles from London, and 18 from Launceston, but noted in history as the place where a great victory was obtained during the civil wars by the King’s forces, in consideration of which, Sir Ralph Hopton was in 1643, created Lord Hopton of Stratton. The parliamentary force amounted to upwards of 5000 men, with 13 pieces of ordnance, and although the troops of the King were very inferior, they fought with such desperate fury, that the enemy were completely defeated, their baggage, ammunition and ordnance, being all lost. A few years after the death of Lord Hopton, Sir John Berkeley was created Baron Berkeley of Stratton, but the title became extinct in 1773. In the year 1797, Lord de Dunstanville was created Baron Basset of Stratton, with remainder to his daughter and her issue male.^[35]

The market is on Tuesday, and there are here held three fairs annually. The former appears to have been held by prescription: it is for corn and provisions. Camden states this parish to have been famous for gardens and garlick: there are now no gardens in the neighbourhood, but such as are cultivated for private use, nor is it remarkable for the culture of garlick, although it is occasionally to be seen in the market, where it is purchased by the cattle doctors.

The manors of Stratton and Binamy belonged, at an early period, to an antient family, called in various records, De Albo Monasterio, Blanchminster, and Whitminster. Sir John de Blanchminster dying without issue, towards the latter part of the fourteenth century, these estates passed to Emmeline, only daughter and heir to Sir Richard Hiwis, who had married Alice, daughter of Sir Ralph de Blanchminster, and aunt of Sir John: this Emmeline first married Sir Robert Tresilian, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench, and after his death, Sir John Coleshill, to whom Guy de Blanchminster, rector of Lansallos, released in 1393 all right in the manors of Stratton, Binamy, &c. Sir John Coleshill, son of the above, who was killed in the battle of Agincourt in 1415, left an infant son; after whose death, in 1483, the large estates of this family passed by a female heir to a younger branch of the Arundells, soon extinct, and were afterwards in severalties among its numerous representatives. The manors of Binamy and Stratton, having been purchased by the Grenville family, passed with the Kilkhampton estate, and are now the property of Lord Carteret. Binamy Castle, which appears to have been built by Ralph de Blanchminster, in or about the year 1335, is spoken of as a seat of the Coleshills by William of Worcester, who made a tour through Cornwall in the reign of Edward IV. Borlase describes the house of the Blanchminsters as having been situated half a mile from Stratton, and a furlong from the antient causeway made by that family: on this estate, now called Binhamy, is a farm-house, a little to the west of which is a moated orchard, described in Camden’s map as a square fort, and called Binnoway.

The Church contains several antient memorials, one of which, with the effigy of a knight in armour, is supposed to be intended for Ralph de Blanchminster, who was Lord of the Manor at a very early period. In the parish-register occurs the following remarkable instance of longevity:—“Elizabeth Cornish, widow, buried March 10th, 1691. This Elizabeth Cornish was baptized in October, 1578: her father’s name was John Veale: she was, when she died, in the 114th year, having lived at least 113 years, four months, and 15 days.” It appears also by the register, that not less than 153 persons died of the plague in this small town, in the year 1547: and in 1729, out of 49 persons buried, 42 fell victims to that destructive distemper the small-pox.

The lands given to the church of Stratton, for the maintenance of the poor of the parish are very considerable, and chiefly vested in eight persons, who have the appropriation of the rent of them.—There is also in the church, the following epitaph, to the memory of one of these eight trustees, and which is rather a curious piece of composition.

About two miles north from Stratton, is the small port of Bude, which is much resorted to in the summer season for sea-bathing. The trade of this place will be greatly increased when the Canal, now making, is completed: the chief exports are timber, bark, and oats; the imports, coal and lime-stone from Wales, and groceries, &c., from Bristol. The harbour, on account of its sands, is best adapted to vessels not exceeding 60 tons burden: but occasionally, vessels of from 80 to 90 tons enter it; and one of more than 90 tons was built at Bude in 1813 for the trade of this port. Great quantities of sea sand are carried from hence for manure, not only into the neighbouring parishes, but into the north of Devonshire, to the distance of 20 miles and upwards.

Kilkhampton, about four miles north of East Stratton, is remarkable for the singular beauty of its Church. It is a large edifice, said to have been erected by a Baron of the Grenville line, who came into England with William the Conqueror, and whose arms are sculptured in many parts of the building.

The whole fabric is a light and rich piece of workmanship, particularly the southern entrance, a semicircular arch, round which is a very curious zig-zag Anglo-Norman moulding, in fine preservation. The interior contains three aisles, divided by slender pillars, supporting obtuse Gothic arches, and has an elegant appearance. It is embellished with several handsome memorials, but the most remarkable one is, the monument of Sir Beville Grenville,^[36] who was slain in the civil wars; and as Hervey says, “swords and spears, murdering engines and instruments of slaughter, adorn the stone with formidable magnificence.” It bears the following inscription:

“Here lyes all that was mortal of the most noble and truly valiant Sir Beville Grenville, of Stowe, in the county of Cornwall, Earl of Corbill, and Lord of Thorigny and Grenville, in France and Normandy, descended in a direct line from Robert, second son of the war-like Rollo, first Duke of Normandy, who, after having obtained divers signal victories over the rebels in the West, was at length slain, with many wounds, at the battle of Lansdowne, July 5, 1643. He married the most virtuous Lady, Grace, daughter of Sir George Smith, of the county of Devon, by whom he had many sons, eminent for their loyalty and firm adherence to the crown and church; and several daughters, remarkable examples of true piety. He was indeed an excellent person, whose activity, interest, and reputation, were the foundation of what had been done in Cornwall; his temper and affections so public, that no accident which happened could make any impression upon him, and his example kept others from taking any thing ill, or at least seeming to do so. In a word a higher courage and a gentler disposition were never married together, to make the most cheerful and innocent conversation.”

“To the immortal memory of his renowned grandfather, this monument was erected by the Right Honourable George Lord Lansdowne, Treasurer of the Household to Queen Anne, and one of Her Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council, &c., in the year 1714.”

Clarendon, in his History of the Rebellion, speaks of Sir Beville Grenville’s death as “that which would have clouded any victory, and made the loss of others less spoken of: and the monument is indebted to that noble author’s own words for all the latter part of the panegyric it is so properly intended to perpetuate.

The Pulpit is a rich piece of carved work, and the Font very antient.

The magnificent and old residence of the Grenville family, called Stowe, in this parish, has been pulled down many years, and the park dismantled. It was one of the most superb residences in England, and the beauty of the grounds and scenery adjacent, have been frequently eulogized. John Grenville, Earl of Bath in the reign of Charles II., erected it. It stood on an eminence, overlooking a well-wooded valley; but not a tree near it, says Dr. Borlase, to shelter it from the north-west. That writer speaks of it as by far the noblest house in the west of England, and says that the kitchen offices fitted up for a dwelling-house, made no contemptible figure. It is a singular circumstance, that the cedar wainscot, which had been brought out of a Spanish prize, and used by the Earl of Bath for fitting up the chapel in this mansion, was purchased by Lord Cobham at the time of its demolition (the house being then sold piecemeal) and applied to the same purpose at Stowe, the magnificent seat of the noble family of Grenville in Buckinghamshire, where it still remains.

Kilkhampton is noticed in history, as the place where the renowned and pious Harvey conceived his Meditations among the Tombs.