INSECT BOXES AND CABINETS.

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General Directions.—The boxes or cases which are used to keep insects in permanently may be made of any dimensions to suit the fancy, 12 by 16 inches inside being a convenient size and allowing economic use of cork. They must, however, be perfectly tight and should not be more than 2½ inches deep on the inside. The bottoms should be lined with something which will hold the pins, and the whole inside covered with white paper, which, if delicately cross ruled, will facilitate the regular pinning of specimens. While the size and style of the box and cabinet may be left to individual taste, some choice must be had of material. Red cedar should never be used. I have learned, to my sorrow, the baneful effects of this wood, notwithstanding it is recommended—evidently by those who are guiltless of having used it—as having the advantage over other wood of keeping off museum pests. It seems impossible to get this wood so seasoned but that a certain amount of resin will continually exude from it; and insects in boxes of this material are very apt to soften and become greasy. Paper boxes are also bad, as they attract moisture and cause the specimens to mold. Well-seasoned pine and whitewood are the most satisfactory; and, in such boxes as have glass covers and are intended to form part of a neat cabinet for parlor ornament, the fronts may be of walnut or cherry.

The character of the boxes and cabinets used for storing insects will depend largely on the nature and extent of the collection and the object of the collector. For temporary use, nothing is more convenient and economical than a cigar box lined with cork or pith. Such boxes, however, should be employed only for the temporary storage of fresh specimens, as they afford free access to museum pests, and insects kept in them for any length of time are apt to be destroyed or rendered useless.

The Folding-box.—The use of folding-boxes for the working collector is to be especially recommended in the case of those orders comprising small insects like Coleoptera, Hymenoptera, etc. These boxes have the great advantage of being readily rearranged on the shelves and of being very easily used in study. The boxes of this type now manufactured by John Schmidt, of Brooklyn, N. Y., and John Burr, of Camden, N. J., based on the experience which I have had, have proved so serviceable and satisfactory in this respect that I have employed them for the bulk of the collection in the National Museum. These boxes (Fig.117) are constructed as follows:

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Fig. 117.—The Schmidt folding insect box, opened and showing arrangement of insects (original).

They are of white pine, shellacked and varnished, the bottom and top double and crossgrained, to prevent warping, and projecting slightly at all sides except the hinged back. They are 13 by 8¼ inches outside measurement. The inside measurement is 11¾ by 7. The sides, back, and front are five-sixteenths of an inch thick, with a machine joint, which is neat and very secure. The boxes are 2? inches in outside depth, unequally divided, the lower portion 1½ inches outside depth, lined inside with a thin whitewood strip, projecting three-fourths of an inch above the rim of the outside box. Over this projecting lining the lid closes as tightly as practicable and is kept from springing by hooks and eyes. The bottom is cork-lined and covered with a fine, white, glazed paper.

Similar folding boxes with both sides of equal depth and both lined with cork, when properly covered, may be made to look like books and be set on end in an ordinary bookcase, but the single lining is preferable, as there is less danger of the breakage of specimens and the boxes may either be laid flat one on the other on shelves, or, what is more convenient, placed side by side resting on the front edge, so that the label is attached to one of the narrow ends. The rows of insects are then pinned crosswise, not lengthwise, of the box, with the abdomens turned toward the front which rests on the shelf.

All the boxes are furnished with neat brass label-holders, in which a card containing a list of the contents can readily be placed and removed at pleasure. The chief demerit of this box which I have endeavored to overcome by the above details is the tendency to warp and crack in the trying steam heat of our Government buildings.

The Cabinet.—For larger insects, such as Lepidoptera, Neuroptera, etc., a larger box is desirable, and for these orders I have adopted for use in the National Museum a cabinet which resulted from a careful study in person of the different forms and patterns used for entomological collections both in this country and Europe, whether by private individuals or public institutions. The drawer and cabinet are essentially after the pattern of those used in the British (South Kensington) Museum, but adapted in size to our own requirements. In the use of the National Museum these cabinets have proved eminently well adapted to their object.

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Fig. 118.—Construction of insect cabinet drawer of the National Museum. A, cross-section f front; B, same f side; C, view of front end of side, ? natural size (original).

The drawers (Fig.118,A,B,C) are square, with an outside measurement of 18 inches and an outside depth of 3 inches. The sides and back have a thickness of three-eighths of an inch, while the front is five-eighths of an inch thick. The pieces are firmly dovetailed together, the front being clean and the dovetailing blind. The bottom, a, is of three-ply crossgrained veneer, run into a groove at the sides, leaving a clear inside depth of 21/16 inches to the frame of the cover. The bottoms are lined in all but forty of the drawers with first quality cork, b, one-fourth of an inch thick. At a distance of one-fourth of an inch from the sides and back and three-eighths of an inch from the front there is an inside box of one-eighth inch whitewood, c, closely fitted, and held in place by blocks between it and the outer box. There is thus between the inner and outer box a clear space, d, all round, in which insecticides or disinfectants can be placed to keep out Museum pests, making it impossible for such to get into the inner box containing the specimens without first passing through this poison chamber. The entire inside is lined with white paper, or, in the case of the uncorked boxes, painted with zinc white. The front is furnished with a plain knob. The cover is of glass, set into a frame, f, three-fourths of an inch wide, three-eighths of an inch thick, with a one-fourth inch tongue fitting closely into the space between the inner lining and outer box, which here serves as a groove. This arrangement furnishes a perfectly tight drawer of convenient size and not unwieldy for handling when studying the collection.

The material of which these drawers are made is California red wood, except the cover frame, which is mahogany. The cabinets containing these drawers are 36 inches high, 40 inches wide, 21 inches deep (all outside measurements), and are closed by two paneled doors. Each cabinet contains twenty drawers in two rows of ten each, and the drawers slide by means of a groove, g, on either side, on hard-wood tongues, and are designed to be interchangeable.

The Lintner display Box.—For beauty and security and the perfect display of the larger Lepidoptera, I have seen nothing superior to a box used by Mr.J.A.Lintner, of Albany, N. Y. It is a frame made in the form of a folio volume, with glass set in for sides and bound in an ordinary book cover. The insects are pinned onto pieces of cork fastened to the inside of one of the glass plates and the boxes may be stood on ends, in library shape, like ordinary books. For the benefit of those who wish to make small collections of showy insects, I give Mr.Lintner's method, of which he has been kind enough to furnish me the following description:

Figs. A, B, and C represent, in section, the framework of the volume, a showing the ends, b the front, and c the back. The material can be prepared in long strips of some soft wood by a cabinet-maker (if the collector has the necessary skill and leisure for framing it) at a cost of 60 cents a frame, if a number sufficient for a dozen boxes be ordered. Or, if it be preferred to order them made, the cost should not exceed 80 cents each.

Before being placed in the hands of the binder the mitering should be carefully examined and any defect in fitting remedied, so that the glass, when placed in position, may have accurate bearings on all the sides. The interior of the frame is covered with tin foil, made as smooth as possible before application, to be applied with thoroughly boiled flour paste (in which a small proportion of arsenic may be mixed) and rubbed smoothly down till the removal of the blisters, which are apt to appear. The tin foil can be purchased, by weight, at druggists', and the sheets marked off and cut by a rule in strips of proper width, allowing for a trifle of overlapping on the sides. Its cost per volume is merely nominal.

First-quality single-thick glass for sides must be selected, wholly free from rust, veins, air-bubbles, or any blemish. Such glass can be purchased at 15 cents a pane. The lower glass, after thorough cleaning, especially of its inner surface, with an alkaline wash, and a final polishing with slightly wetted white printing paper, is to be firmly secured in its place by a proper number of tin points; the upper glass is but temporarily fastened. The binder must be directed to cover the exposed sides of the frame with “combed” paper, bringing it over the border of the permanent lower glass and beneath the removable upper glass.

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Fig. 119.—Construction of the Lintner box.

The covers of the volume are of heavy binders' board (No.18), neatly lined within with glazed white paper. On one of the insides of the lids may be attached, by its corners, a sheet with the numbers and names of the species contained in the volume, or these may be placed on the pin bearing the insect. If bound in best quality of imitation morocco, with cloth covers, lettered and gilded on the back, the cost (for a dozen volumes) need not exceed $1 each. If in turkey morocco, it will be $1.50.

The lettering and ornamentation of the back will vary with the taste of the individual. The family designations may be permanently lettered, or they may be pasted on the back, on a slip of paper or gum label, as are the generic names, thus permitting the change of the contents of a volume at any time if desired.

The bits of cork to which the insects are to be pinned are cut in quarter-inch squares from sheet-cork of one-fourth of an inch in thickness. If the trouble be taken to trim off the corners, giving them an octagonal form, their appearance will be materially improved and much less care will be required in adjusting them on the glass.

The cement usually recommended for attaching the cork to the glass is composed of equal parts of white wax and resin. My experience with this has not been favorable, for, after the lapse of a few years, I have invariably been subjected to the serious annoyance of being compelled to renew the entire contents of the volume, clean the glass, and replace the corks with new cement. From some cause, inexplicable to me, a gradual separation takes place of the cork with its cement from the glass, first appearing at the angles of the cork, and its progress indicated by an increasing number of iridescent rings which form within until the center is reached, when, if not previously detached, the insect falls with the cork, usually to its injury and that of others beneath it.

A number of years ago I happened to employ, in attaching a single piece of cork in one of my cases, a cement originally made for other purposes, consisting of six parts of resin, one of wax, and one of Venetian red. Several years thereafter my attention was drawn to this piece by finding it as firmly united as when at first applied, and at the present time (after the lapse of twelve years) it is without the slightest indication of separation. Acting upon this hint, I have, of late, used this cement in the restoration of a number of my cases, and with the most satisfactory results. It is important that the cement, when used, should be heated (by a spirit lamp or gas flame) to as high a degree as it will bear without burning. An amount sufficient to cover the bottom of the small, flat metal vessel containing it to the depth of an eighth of an inch will suffice and prevent the cork from taking up more than its requisite quantity. It should be occasionally stirred to prevent the precipitation of its heavier portions. The cork may be conveniently dipped by the aid of a needle inserted in a handle, when, as quickly as possible, it should be transferred to the glass, for the degree of adhesion seems to depend upon the degree of fluidity of the cement. From some experiments made by me, after the corks had been attached as above, in heating the entire glass to such a degree as thoroughly to melt the cement until it spreads outward from beneath the weight of the cork, and then permitted to cool—the glass meanwhile held horizontally, that the corks might not be displaced—the results appear to indicate that the above cement, applied in this manner on glass properly cleaned, will prove a permanent one. It is scarcely necessary to state that this method is not available where the glass has been bound as above.

Preparatory to corking the glass for the specimens assigned to it, the spaces required for them are to be ascertained by arranging them in order on a cork surface or otherwise. On a sheet of paper of the size of the glass, perpendicular lines, of the number of the rows and at their proper distances, are to be drawn, and cross lines equal in number to the insects contained in the rows. The distances of these lines will be uniform, unless smaller specimens are to occupy some portion of the case, when they may be graduated to the required proportion. With the sheet ruled in this manner and placed beneath the glass, the points where the corks are to be applied are indicated by the intersections of the lines. The sheet, marked with the family of the insects for which it was used and with the numbers designating its divisions, may be laid aside for future use in the preparation of other cases for which it may be suitable. In a series of unbound cases in my collection, in which the glasses measure 11 by 14½ inches, I have used for my Lepidoptera and laid aside the following scales, the citation of which will also serve to show the capacity of the cases: 3 by 8, Catocalas; 2 by 7 and 3 by 9, SphingidÆ; 4 by 11 to 4 by 14, BombycidÆ; 5 by 13 to 6 by 16, NoctuidÆ; 8 by 16 and 8 by 20, LycÆnidÆ and TortricidÆ.

The unbound cases above referred to are inexpensive frames, made by myself, of quarter-inch white wood or pine, the corners mitered, glued, and nailed with three-quarter inch brads, lined within with white paper (better with tin foil), and covered without with stout manila paper. The glasses are cut of the size of the frame, and when placed in position thereon are appressed closely to it by laying upon them, near each corner, a heavy weight, and strips of an enameled green paper, cut to the width of 1 inch, are pasted over their edges, extending a little beyond the thickness of the frame, and brought downward over the outside of the frame. On its back two gum labels, indicating the insects inclosed, are placed at uniform heights (7 and 12 inches), when, if all has been neatly done, they present a tasteful appearance upon a shelf. When there is reason to believe that the case will need to be opened for the change or addition of specimens, it will be found convenient to employ, for the fastening of the left-hand side of the upper glass, paper lined with a thin muslin, to serve as a hinge when the other sides have been cut.

Should it become desirable to bind these cases, outside frames may be constructed after the plans above given, with the omission of the inside quarter inch (the equivalent of these frames), in which these may be placed and held in position by two or three screws inserted in their sides.

The Martindale Box for Lepidoptera.—Mr.IsaacC.Martindale, in the October, 1891, number of Entomological News, pp. 126, 127, describes a new form of cabinet for butterflies, the drawers of which present some new features. They are for the same end as the Lintner box described above—namely, for the display of the upper and under surface of the wings of Lepidoptera, and promise to be more useful. The drawer is described as follows:

The especial feature is the drawer itself, which, instead of having a cork bottom, as is usually the case, has both the top and bottom of glass. The top part of the drawer frame fits tightly over a ledge one inch in height, effectually preventing the intrusion of destructive insects, the pest of the entomologist; but it is readily lifted when it is desirable to add to the contents or change the location of the specimens. For the inside arrangement I have taken a strip of common tin, one inch wide, and turned up each side five-sixteenths of an inch, thus leaving three-eighths of an inch for the bottom. The length of the strip of tin, being about two inches longer than the width of the drawer, admits of each end being turned up one inch. Into this tin trough is tightly fitted a cork strip three-eighths of an inch square. The whole being covered with white paper, such as is usually used for lining drawers, conceals the inequalities of the cork and makes a fine finish. They should be made to fit neatly in the drawer, and can be readily moved about to suit large or small specimens. For LycÆnas, Pamphilas, etc., as many as fifteen of these strips may be used in one drawer, and as few as five for Morphos, Caligos, etc. The upturned ends are fastened in place by using the ordinary thumb tacks that can be procured at any stationer's. The frame work of the drawers should be of white pine, well seasoned. Into this the thumb tacks are readily inserted and as easily withdrawn when a change in the position of the cork strips is needed.

Horizontal vs. vertical Arrangement of Boxes.—I have elsewhere discussed the availability of the upright vs. the horizontal arrangement of insect boxes.[9] In the case of Lepidoptera and large-bodied insects I have found the horizontal drawer or box to be preferable. If large-bodied insects are placed in a vertical position they are very liable to become loose on the pins, swing from side to side, and damage themselves and other specimens; but for the smaller insects of all orders, the vertical arrangement is quite safe and satisfactory. If the pin is slightly flattened, as described on p. 69, the danger of large specimens becoming loose is to a great extent avoided.

Lining for Insect Boxes.—The old lining of insect boxes was the ordinary sheet cork of commerce, and if a good quality of cork is procurable it will answer the purpose. A better substance, however, for the lining of insect boxes is the prepared or ground cork, which is now almost exclusively used. It is simply ground cork mixed with a small amount of glue, compressed into sheets and covered with paper. This gives a very homogenous composition, and is much better than the ordinary cork, having a more uniform and neat appearance, and admitting the insertion of the pins more freely. It may be purchased from H. Herpers, 18 Crawford street, Newark, N. J.

Fig. 120.—Paper lining for insect box.
(After Morse.)

A less expensive substitute is paper stretched upon a frame. Prof. E. S. Morse has given in the “American Naturalist” (Vol. i, p. 156) a plan which is very neat and useful for lining boxes in a large museum, which are designed to be placed in horizontal show-cases (Fig.120). “A box is made of the required depth, and a light frame is fitted to its interior. Upon the upper and under surfaces of this frame a sheet of white paper (drawing or log paper answers the purpose) is securely glued. The paper, having been previously damped, in drying contracts and tightens like a drumhead. The frame is then secured about one-fourth of an inch from the bottom of the box, and the pin is forced down through the thicknesses of paper, and if the bottom of the box be of soft pine, the point of the pin may be slightly forced into it. It is thus firmly held at two or three different points, and all lateral movements are prevented. Other advantages are secured by this arrangement besides firmness: when the box needs cleaning or fumigation, the entire collection may be removed by taking out the frame; or camphor, tobacco, or other material can be placed on the bottom of the box, and concealed from sight. The annexed figure represents a transverse section of a portion of the side and bottom of the box with the frame. A A, box; B, frame; P P, upper and under sheets of paper; C, space between lower sheets of paper and bottom of box.”

Other substitutes are the pith of various plants, especially of corn. Palm wood and “inodorous felt” are also used, being cut to fit the bottom of the box.

Pita wood or the light porous wood of the Agave or Century plant when cut into proper strips also makes a very light and satisfactory lining, while good close bog-peat cut into proper thicknesses is not infrequently used in France and Germany. Druce&Co., 68 Baker street, London, W., England, have lately been manufacturing what is known as cork carpet, which seems to be a combination of ground cork and rubber. It comes in various colors and of the proper thickness, and makes a very smooth and desirable lining, holding the pins very firmly. It cost 90 cents per square yard in England, and I have had one cabinet lined with it as an experiment, as there is a probability that the pins may corrode in contact with the rubber.

Footnote:

[9] American Naturalist, Vol. XV, p. 401, 1881.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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