After visiting, with a great deal of pleasure, Batalha, by far the finest ecclesiastical edifice in Portugal, we reached Coimbra, than which, with its environs, it is difficult to conceive a more beautiful prospect. The town, with its numerous churches and academical buildings rising from the opposite shore of the Mondego, and situated in a rich fertile plain, backed by the lofty and picturesque hills of Busaco, clothed with wood to their summits, with a fine old bridge in the foreground, while the Mondego is seen winding through the valley until it is lost in the sea, which forms the distant horizon, altogether made a picture which, for loveliness, was unsurpassed by anything I have seen in Portugal. We found here, a rare thing at that time in Portugal, a clean, comfortable little hotel, near the Rocio, where Mr. Cheffins and his assistant had arrived before us. We accordingly made preparations to start next morning at six o’clock, on horseback, to explore a line along the coast to Oporto.

We started punctually at six, and crossed the valley of the Mondego, which is here about three miles wide, and is quite flat. It has a rich and fertile alluvial soil, but is frequently inundated by the floods of the Mondego, so that the roads, such as they were, viz. extremely bad, were formed by rough causeways raised 3 or 4 feet above the level of the adjacent land. In fact, at the time of my visit there were no roads worthy of the name in Portugal, except the road above mentioned, from Cairegado to Coimbra; and upon this, what was still more extraordinary, a regular four-horse mail-coach, like those of England, had been just established for the first time to run from Lisbon to Coimbra, at the rate of about seven miles an hour. Another similar road had been commenced from Oporto to Braga, and had been carried only a few miles. In fact, unless you had seen and visited Portugal you could hardly have conceived such a state of things possible. All the other roads were nothing but mere horse-tracks, in the most wretched state imaginable, full of holes and great stones, so that you could seldom go faster than a walking pace without danger of breaking your neck at every step, except in those parts where the track lay through forests and open plains. Over these the rude bullock carts jolted up and down at about the rate of half a mile an hour, and the creaking of the axles might be heard two or three miles off. As for inns, for the most part there were none, and the wearied traveller had to carry everything with him, and take refuge in some miserable cottage full of filth, which he was obliged to clear away before he could establish himself with anything approaching to comfort. I had heard of this before leaving England, and I took care to provide myself with a light travelling-bed, and a canteen with the necessary provisions.

Leaving Coimbra, we reached Aveiro the next evening, after a most fatiguing journey of fifteen hours in the saddle; during a great portion of our ride we were exposed to a terrific storm of rain, and lost our way, and narrowly escaped passing the night in a pine forest. Not far from Aveiro, Messrs. Pinto, Basto, & Co. had established a large manufactory for porcelain and common crockery ware, which was in a very thriving state, and the imitations of the English porcelain were very creditable, as well as the artistic decorations; as they were well protected by high import duties on foreign porcelain, they enjoyed a monopoly for a time, and made considerable profits. These duties have latterly been greatly modified, and it has not been found worth while to continue this establishment. It has, however, I understand, answered very well for the proprietors, who have, by this and other enterprises, realized considerable fortunes. In fact, it was quite evident that such an establishment, which had to import all the materials and the fuel from England, could not compete with the superior talent and industry of England without extraordinary protective duties, which are nothing more or less than a heavy tax upon the country. Portugal is not a manufacturing country. She has a most genial climate and generally a rich soil, and can produce a variety of raw commodities which England and the north of Europe cannot. Portugal therefore, by exporting these articles, such as wine, oil, fruits, cork, salt, cattle, &c., can always realize a good profit, which will enable her to import all other articles required at a far less cost than they can be produced at home, besides contributing materially to the State revenue. Messrs. Pinto and Basto were not at the establishment when we visited it, but their manager had received notice from them that we were coming, with orders to show us everything, and to give us a handsome entertainment, which he did to the very letter, and we returned to Aveiro much delighted with our reception. Indeed, the manager regretted greatly that we had not stayed there the previous night, and if we had known it, we certainly should have done so. For although, considering all things, we were not badly off at Aveiro, still we should have been much better off at Messrs. Pinto and Basto’s establishment, and should have been saved the severe fatigue of the last ten miles of our journey.

The next day we started for Oporto, and passed the thriving little town of Ovar, situated at the north end of the Aveiro lagoon, but having a separate entrance from the sea, formed by a small stream passing through the town. Our railway passed along the base of the hills, which was very favourable. From Ovar we continued near the shore through a forest of pines for several miles; these pines would furnish excellent sleepers for the railway at a very moderate cost. From the forest we continued along the shore through most favourable ground, until we reached the entrance of the Douro: the distance from Ovar being about twenty miles. From the entrance of the Douro there was a favourable line for the railway for two miles along the banks to Oporto, where it would have been necessary to cross the river by a rather expensive bridge to reach the chief part of the city. This, however, must have been done in any case, and as all the great wine depÔts or lodges, as they are called, are on the south side, and as the wine trade of Oporto is the most important, this would have been a great advantage; moreover, there is on the south side, near the entrance, a much better position for docks.

Between Ovar and the Douro stands a rock surrounded by extensive sands. On this rock is a chapel, reputed to be of peculiar sanctity, which is annually visited by immense numbers of pilgrims. It is very curious to see the extent to which these devotions are carried, and the occasionally strange results. In going one day, on foot, from Mattozenhas to Oporto during one of these festivals, I was surprised to meet a man walking, or rather shuffling, along in an extraordinary manner, in what appeared to me to be a sack. I immediately stopped to look at him, and gazed on him with astonishment. Several persons, apparently friends, accompanied him, and I inquired what it meant; I was informed that the person whom I saw enveloped in a sack had, during a severe illness, prayed to the Saint of the church of Mattozenhas to deliver him from his illness, promising that if he recovered he would annually on the Saint’s fÊte-day walk to the church in his grave-clothes, to return his thanks for his delivery from death. The poor fellow seemed to be much fatigued, and no wonder, as travelling for two miles in such hot weather over a dusty road in such an uncomfortable costume must have been very severe work.

Next day we were off before daylight, and reached our old quarters at Aveiro the same night. I soon saw that it would be difficult to get a good line for the railway over this district; it was too hilly and expensive, and would have required long tunnels through granite rocks and heavy embankments. I therefore gave up this line, that is as far as Ovar. After leaving Aveiro we took a new route nearer to the hills, and with the exception of a part of the river Vouga, it was preferable to the coast line formerly mentioned. The summit near the Busaco hills was a little higher, but there the line was shorter, and on the hill there was plenty of fine limestone fit for bridges and any other works. This line evidently therefore was the best; I ordered it to be minutely surveyed and levelled, and the result proved that my anticipations were correct.

We reached our old quarters at Coimbra, and having examined the city again were much more pleased with it than before. The University is a very handsome building upon an extensive scale, with an excellent library, museum, extensive lecture rooms, and a competent establishment of professors and lecturers. The costume of the professors and students, although totally different from that of our own, was very appropriate; and the method of teaching and conferring degrees was extremely good, although a little too much savouring of sacerdotalism, but still greatly improved in this respect to what it was only a few years before. The city moreover was comparatively clean, and there appeared to be a degree of outer tranquillity and prosperity about it which pleased me much. I have seen many foreign universities, but none delighted me more than Coimbra. After leaving Coimbra we passed through Thomar and reached the valley of the Tagus; this we descended until we arrived at Santarem, which is but an inconsiderable place; it is situated on the highest point of the ridge, and bounded by precipitous rocks which abut on the Tagus, there being a small valley on the north, also on the east and west. Being thus isolated, it occupies an admirable position as a fortress, and might easily be made impregnable; commanding, as it does, the country all around, if it were properly defended, the approach of an enemy would be extremely difficult; and if fortified according to modern ideas, with a sufficient garrison and provisions, it might hold its own against all comers for almost any length of time; in fact, it may be considered as one of the keys of the kingdom. When I saw it, its works were in a very unfinished and dilapidated state. From Santarem we proceeded down the river to a small place termed the White House, where we embarked on board the steamer for Lisbon. The hills on either side of the Tagus alternately advance and recede; but the whole scenery is very rich, the soil being highly cultivated to the very tops of the hills, and in places abounding with cattle. In the flat country, however, bordering on the river, malaria and intermittent fever are very common, and indeed the whole course of the Tagus requires regulating.

We reached the Braganza at Lisbon in the evening, after a rough but satisfactory journey. Mr. Giles was now anxious to go to England, and a few days after our arrival he sent in a general proposal to the Government, on the part of Peto and Betts, for making railways, and then started in the packet for England, leaving his assistant, Mr. O’Neil, with me, to make any further necessary explanations. The season was getting late, and we had no time to lose, for it was now nearly the middle of October. I saw M. Fontes several times, and he always received me very civilly, and said that he was determined to meet Messrs. Shaw, Waring, and Co., fairly.

Mr. O’Neil and myself then started to survey the country for lines suitable for railways in the east and south. After being detained for a time by heavy rains at the White House, we reached Salvatierra, a wretched place on the left bank of the Tagus, about seven o’clock in the evening, fully two hours after dark; it was a nasty pestilential hole, close by the marshes; however, bad as it was, we were very glad to get there. There was no inn in the place, but after a little inquiry we found a shopkeeper who was willing, for a consideration, to accommodate us. We accordingly agreed with him, and took possession; we found the rooms full of corn, beans, &c., which we soon cleared out, swept the floors, walls, and ceiling as well as we could, and unpacked our things. I sent out my man for some provisions, we got a good wood fire lighted, and after about an hour and a half had a tolerable supper, turned into bed, and slept soundly until the morning. In fact, I never grumbled; I took the people as I found them; they were generally very civil, and did everything in their power to make us as comfortable as possible. I always carried plenty of cigarettes and cigars, and distributed them liberally, not only to the men attending the horses, but also to the people in the house and to any casual visitors that might come in; as I had by this time acquired some knowledge of the Portuguese language, I made myself as agreeable as possible, and in consequence every one did the best they could to help me. The Portuguese are a very civil, quiet people, and if you only treat them properly, as I always did, they will do everything they can to accommodate you. I of course also took good care of the horses and men, and they were so much pleased that they never grumbled, and would do anything I required. Throughout the whole of my journeys I never had a single squabble; we all went on merrily together, and whenever I could get a good laugh I always did, and this was not seldom. We left Salvatierra at daylight, and proceeded over a gently undulating country, and in three days reached the old fortress of Estremoz. The people of the district through which we were now travelling were extremely primitive, and in one large village, where we halted, as usual, at midday, the whole population, it being Sunday, turned out to have a look at us.

The country here is elevated and very well cultivated. The olive-trees are planted in regular rows, and carefully attended to, a thing I had not before observed in Portugal, as they are generally in forests, and left entirely to nature. The vines also were more looked after, and some excellent wine is made here. Upon the whole this was certainly a thriving district. We took a ride to the ridge of mountains about ten miles to the south, which, extending east and west, separates this district from the southern part of the Alentejo. They are covered with verdure to the top, afford excellent pasture for sheep and cattle, and form a very picturesque prospect. Estremoz is in a commanding position, but its fortifications were in a dilapidated state. After having spent a day here, we proceeded over an elevated, fertile, cultivated country, to Elvas, on the frontier. The Government had been employed for some time past in making a good road here, and a considerable portion had been finished, so that we made tolerable progress, and reached Elvas soon after midday, and found a very clean, comfortable little hotel.

Elvas is a very strong fortress, situated upon the summit of the ridge of hills forming the western boundary of the valley of the Guadiana, which winds through the extensive valley below, about seven miles distant, and the boundary or frontier line between Spain and Portugal is about half way between Elvas and the Guadiana.

The fortifications are very extensive, and upon the whole well laid out and tolerably well kept up. There are several large outworks, particularly that on a hill about a mile to the north, which may be said to be the citadel. It commands the town, being situated upon the highest part of the ridge. The view from this is very extensive, overlooking the dreary and bare valley of the Guadiana, with Badajoz, the Spanish frontier fortress, about nine miles distant; and farther on the bare bleak hills of Estramadura bound the horizon. On the west you have a fine view of this part of Portugal, whilst north and south you command the view of this elevated ridge, which bounds the Guadiana as far as the eye can reach.

Having explored this part of the country, and having satisfied ourselves that it would be difficult to get a good line here, we turned our attention to the southward, and again leaving Estremoz, reached the poor but considerable village of OÇana, not many miles from the frontier. I therefore determined to stop there for the night, and to my surprise found that there were two or three small inns. I selected the best, and bad was the best. I was informed that OÇana was the resort of the worst characters of all sorts, both Portuguese and Spaniards, who made this their head quarters, from whence they could easily cross the frontier of either country, according as either Spain or Portugal became too hot for them. I was told that we ought to be upon our guard, for it was not improbable that we might be attacked in the night, or waylaid on our route the next day, for the country through which we should have to pass was very wild and lonely. Therefore, as is always the case, I thought the best plan would be to put a good face upon it, and to show that we had no fear, put confidence in the people around us, and make them friends. I therefore invited as many as I could get, men and women, to a sort of ball, inquired for some musicians, and found half-a-dozen with guitars, castanettes, and tambourines, and as the inn where we were would not hold all the guests, I engaged the other two inns also. The whole population crowded to the balls at these inns, and I visited them alternately, danced with the women, and made myself as agreeable as I could. Wine and refreshments were not wanting, everything passed off in the best manner, and nothing but mirth and good humour prevailed. Soon after midnight I had had enough of it, and the guests below, excited by wine, became very noisy. I told my servants, guide, and horse-keepers to have everything ready by four o’clock on the following morning, the horses saddled and the baggage packed, outside the town, and having previously paid the reckoning, we quietly departed, without beat of drum, leaving our delighted guests in the midst of their revelry, and in no disposition to follow us. By daylight we had travelled five or six miles without encountering any person on the way—for road there was none. We laughed heartily at our adventure, and I was afterwards congratulated at having succeeded so well, for we had had a narrow escape of being robbed, and probably something worse. We passed through a wild but not unpicturesque country, and reached Abrantes, on the Tagus, without further adventure, on the afternoon of the second day. This is one of the most considerable fortresses in the kingdom, situated in a commanding position of great strength; but the works were very much neglected, and there was scarcely any garrison. The town itself is a poor place.

As regards the country through which we had passed being adapted for a railway, there was no doubt that a good line could be made through it, although at considerable expense; the difficulty was how to cross the main ridge which separated the valley of the Guadiana from that of the Tagus. It certainly was most desirable to connect Abrantes with Elvas, but the descent from it to the Guadiana valley was too rapid; still, this was only a matter of expense. I thought that some more practicable gap through the ridge might be found farther southward, but this I was obliged to leave for future investigation.

I now determined to proceed northwards, in order to ascertain whether a line for a railway could be obtained preferable to that which we had previously examined when returning from Coimbra.

Having slept at our old quarters at Thomar, we proceeded to the banks of the Zezere, which we found to be extremely lofty and falling rapidly to the river. We proceeded for some miles along them, but the higher we went up the river, the higher we found the hills; in fact, there was no valley except that occupied by the river, so that we had to give up all hopes of a line in that direction. However, in the course of a few days’ explorations we were fortunate enough to find an easily practicable line for the northern railway, in the direction of Oporto.

In one of these expeditions we met a Portuguese gentleman dressed in the native costume, and attended by his servant. He courteously saluted us in good English, and then asked where we were going, and what we were doing, which, of course, we told; he then asked, “Where do you sleep to-night?” and when we told him, he said, “Nonsense; you cannot and you shall not sleep there: it is not fit for a dog” (in which he was not far wrong). “I live close by. Yon must come and sleep at my house, and leave as early as you like to-morrow morning.” We gladly accepted his invitation. We returned to the cottage, dressed ourselves in rather better costume, while our new friend rode forward to receive us. His house was something like a good farm, surrounded by a courtyard and farm-buildings, situated in the midst of a kind of rough park. The night was very dark, and we had some difficulty in making our way through the woods, and if it had not been for the barking of the dogs, we should scarcely have found it. However, we got there, and were most cordially received, shown into a comfortable room with a blazing wood fire, and in about half an hour after sat down to an excellent supper, with plenty of good wine.

Our host was a most excellent and well-informed man of about sixty, of the middle size, rather stout and well-made, with a fine open countenance. His name was Don S. de Silva. He had served in the Portuguese army under the Duke of Wellington, and had been engaged in several battles with the French, of which he was very proud. He took the greatest interest in the railways, offered every assistance in his power, and insisted upon our making his house our home whenever we came that way. He said that after the war he had retired to his estate, and devoted the whole of his time to farming, and that he passed a very active, pleasant time. I think he said that his wife and family were at Lisbon, where they frequently went, as they had many friends and connections there. We were shown into a comfortable and clean double-bedded room, and the only thing we required to make us thoroughly comfortable was more blankets, for the night was excessively cold. However, I slept soundly, and awoke next morning thoroughly refreshed. We had an excellent breakfast, and took leave of our worthy host with many thanks for his most hospitable entertainment.

We reached Thomar about midday, having travelled over a rather better road than usual. Here we halted at the Old Inn for a couple of hours, and then made the best of our way over the old road to Basquenha, before mentioned, where we slept. The next day we hurried on by Santarem, caught the tugboat and the steamer at the White House, and reached the Braganza, Lisbon, the same evening, having been absent about eighteen days; fortunately, with the exception of the first day, we had tolerably fine weather, without which we should have had a good deal of difficulty in making such a rough journey.

I forgot to mention that while Mr. Giles and myself went to Coimbra and Oporto, we sent Mr. O’Neil to explore the line of the Tagus beyond Abrantes as far as the frontier, in order to ascertain whether there was any practicable line for a railway in that direction. Mr. O’Neil, however, gave a very unfavourable account of it, for a few miles beyond Abrantes the Tagus passes through a deep chasm, hemmed in on both sides with steep, precipitous granite rocks, swarming with eagles, and wild and desolate to a degree. There were scarcely any inhabitants save a few shepherds, clad in goat-skins, who lived in small cottages stuck in the clefts of the rocks, or built upon some small patches of ground close by the margin of the river, with a few vegetables and fruits growing round them. They were thoroughly surprised at seeing Mr. O’Neil; they said they were never visited by strangers, and could not conceive why he had come there. Nevertheless, they were civil, and gave him freely the best they had, which was very little indeed, and would scarcely take anything in return; when pressed, they said they would keep the money for his sake, or would buy something in remembrance of him.

The eagles appeared quite at home there, and were seldom molested, except when they had carried off some favourite pet-lamb or kid, or had paid a visit to the poultry. Mr. O’Neil’s report was so unfavourable that we did not think it advisable to pursue our investigations farther in that direction.

We had now pretty well explored the country between the Tagus and the Douro for the north, and the Tagus and the Guadiana for the east line to connect Portugal with Spain, and it only required that these should be investigated to ascertain which was best. Upon my arrival at Lisbon, I called upon M. Fontes, and reported what I had done. We had also a good deal of conversation about their finances; arranging affairs with Shaw, Waring, and Co.; getting good contractors for making further lines; raising a loan in England, &c. I said with all deference that the whole of these things might be satisfactorily settled; but that the first and most important of all was to arrange matters with the Stock Exchange in England, for until this was done a loan could not be obtained (and the Government was much in want of money) without paying very high interest, which would soon consume the revenues of the country. For example, their stock of 50 was only nominally quoted at 18 to 20, for which they paid 3l. interest, or 15 per cent.; whereas, if they settled with the Stock Exchange, their funds would at once rise to 40 or upwards, and thus they might borrow at 7 per cent. I further ventured to hint that by free trade—that is, lowering their import duties—the revenue would be much benefited, and that their exports would be increased in the same ratio. M. Fontes listened with much attention, but said nothing.

Having finished my business, I prepared to return to England, and was told by M. Fontes that I should have an audience of the King. I accordingly presented myself, and had an audience of his Majesty Dom Pedro, who was an exceedingly well-informed, sensible young man, of about twenty-one, and whose sole object and desire was the advancement and improvement of his country, to which he devoted himself day and night. He was exceedingly amiable and modest, and much beloved and respected, not only by his own subjects, but by every person who had the honour of being presented to him. His Majesty received me in the most condescending manner, entered into the subject of railways, the great advantage they would be to Portugal, the making of common roads to join them, the benefit of free trade, and the necessity of improving agriculture and extending the cultivation of vines, olives, corn, fruits, and all native produce, as well as the improvement of the harbours, and everything else which would advance the prosperity of the country. He had studied all these subjects thoroughly, and was perfectly at home in them; and with regard to the finances, he quite agreed with me. I took my leave of his Majesty, and he shook me by the hand, and bade me farewell, trusting that he should soon see me again.

I then called upon the Duke de Saldanha, the President of the Cabinet and Commander-in-Chief of the Army, a very estimable man, who spoke English very well; he had served under the Duke of Wellington during the great Peninsular war. He spoke English perfectly, and was very popular amongst his countrymen, and always happy to see the English. When I told him that I was about to leave the next day for England, he said that he was very glad to hear it. He further remarked that a Cabinet Council had been held the day before, and that I should hear more of it before the day was over.

I returned to the Braganza, packed up my things, and was ready to leave by the packet the next day. At nine o’clock the same evening I received a message from M. Fontes to come to him at his office. I went there immediately, and he said he had been ordered to proceed to England with me, to endeavour to settle the matter in dispute between his Government and the English Stock Exchange, and the quarrel with the railway contractors.

We started together next morning, and on arriving in London I had the pleasure of being partly instrumental in bringing about an arrangement between the principal holders of Portuguese stock in England and the Portuguese Government, to their mutual satisfaction and advantage; also an arrangement between the Portuguese and Messrs. Shaw, Waring, and Co., which, as we shall see, was not subsequently ratified. M. Fontes returned to Portugal with considerable Éclat, having re-established the credit of Portugal with their English stockholders, and settled the railway difficulty, and it was thought that he and his ministry had a long and prosperous career before them. Unfortunately, however, this turned out quite the contrary; whether it was envy at his success, or some other political cause, I do not know, but in the spring of the following year, 1856, Fontes and his ministry were obliged to resign, and the Marquis de LoulÉ, a connection of the royal family, succeeded him. The Marquis de LoulÉ was a remarkably fine, handsome man, a thorough gentleman, with considerable talents, of imperturbable temper and great good humour; I know no man with whom he might better be compared than the late Lord Palmerston. LoulÉ, like Fontes, was equally desirous of completing the railway system of Portugal.

I continued the surveys for a line between Coimbra and Oporto, and when they were completed I received a tender from Messrs. Peto and Betts, saying they would execute the line for 10,000l. per mile, without the land.

As his Royal Highness the Prince Consort took considerable interest in the improvement of Portugal, and as I had heard indirectly that information respecting the progress of the railways would be gratifying to him, I communicated with his Royal Highness’s secretary, and received a command to go to Windsor. I went, and was received in the most affable manner. The Prince was thoroughly acquainted with everything going on in Portugal, and took great interest in the construction of railways in that country. He thanked me for the information I had communicated, and wished me every success.

Towards the end of August all the plans, estimates, and specifications of the line between Coimbra and Oporto were completed, and in the month of September I went over and presented them in person. I was very kindly received by his Majesty and by his ministers. When I arrived, I found that M. de Soveral, the very clever Chief Secretary of the Portuguese Embassy in London, was home on leave. He also took the warmest interest in the establishment of railways. The dispute with Messrs. Shaw, Waring, and Co. had not yet been settled, and consequently no new arrangement could be made. I had frequent meetings with the Marquis de LoulÉ and M. de Soveral on the subject, and fully explained to them that it would be impossible to get any English contractors of influence to form a new and powerful company of English capitalists to make railways in Portugal, unless this matter could be honourably adjusted; and I added that I thought the terms agreed upon with M. Fontes were, upon the whole, the best that could be adopted.

The Marquis listened with much attention to all my arguments, and finally gave me instructions to see Messrs. Peto and Betts and their friends, upon my return to England, in order to ascertain upon what terms they would be willing to form a new company to complete the Northern Railway to Oporto; and I was to inform him of the result, but not to commit the Government in any way. He requested me, before I left Portugal, to examine the port of Setubal, or, as the English call it, St. Ubes, a little to the south of Lisbon.

I accordingly proceeded to reconnoitre the port, and found that it was formed by a river which ran a considerable distance into the interior. St. Ubes was situated on the right bank of it, about four miles from the bar, but the river here was so wide and shallow that it was only an estuary. The opposite side being covered at high water, the returning ebb and flood waters were expanded over such a wide space that the current had not sufficient force to maintain a good channel, nor did it act upon the bar powerfully enough to maintain a good passage over it. Moreover, the estuary was exposed to the full effect of the south-westerly gales, which, sweeping across the Atlantic with great violence, send a very heavy swell across the bar, rendering it extremely dangerous to approach, and driving a great quantity of sand into the mouth of the river; this would materially reduce the depth, and render the navigation both dangerous and difficult; and there was too little fresh water coming down to be of much service in assisting the operation of the tide. I soon saw what was necessary to be done to remedy to a great extent, if not entirely to remove, these evils; this was confine the channel on the opposite or sea side by a low line of wicker or fascine work, in the first instance to the level of a little above half tide, and then to raise it as required; the sand would soon accumulate behind it, and thus the tidal and fresh waters, being always confined to the same channel, would greatly improve it, and considerably lower the bar. I also thought the channel for some distance above the town should be deepened, embanked, and improved by dredging, and that below the town to the bar the channel should be dredged also to assist the operation of the current. I embodied these observations in a plan and report on my return to Lisbon, and delivered them to the Marquis, with which he was much satisfied.

I now prepared to return to England, in company with my friend de Soveral; but as the latter was desirous of breaking his voyage at Oporto, for the purpose of ascending the Douro and visiting his estates, I agreed to accompany him. We reached Pescoa de Ragosa, a very important place in this district, being the centre of the port wine trade. Here is held the market where all the port wine growers assemble at the end of the vintage, and here come all the wine merchants from Oporto, and make their purchases for the season. The veritable port wine district is a very remarkable country. It is situated on the banks of the Douro, which are here composed of lofty, undulating hills, clothed with rich soil, rising rapidly from the river, about forty miles above Oporto, where the granite formation, on which no vines will grow, ceases. The district consists of the transition rocks above the granite; it extends about forty miles, as far as the cataracts of St. Joao de Pesqueira and is about five or six miles wide, including both sides of the valley of the Douro; one side is exposed to the morning and the other to the evening sun, and the reflected rays make the valley like an oven during the summer months, so that no place could be more advantageously situated for the development of the vine. No trees are allowed to grow upon the hillsides. The vines are like so many gooseberry or currant bushes, and they are cut down almost to the roots so that the nutriment applied to the plant may be developed in producing the fruit to the greatest possible extent. The vines are planted in rows, and the intervening space is carefully weeded, so that the whole power of the sun is concentrated upon the vines; and it is wonderful to see the quantity of fruit borne compared to the extent of branches and leaves. When the vintage has been made, there are a certain number of tasters who are appointed by the Government. These men, who neither smoke, snuff, or drink, then examine the wine, which they do by a saucer, much indented in the bottom, of pure silver, which enables them to judge of the colour; then they smell it, and taste it by the touch of the tongue without drinking any. By these three tests they pronounce the quality of the vintage, and this, combined with the quantity, determines the price. It is said that the wine is prepared according to a certain standard for the English market; that is, the wine is made to resemble as near as possible a vintage that has pleased the English, who are the great consumers of port wine; this is done either by mixing some old approved wine with the new, or adding brandy. There has been a great deal of argument and doubt about adulteration. I will not take upon myself to decide, but I will say this, that a good vintage of port wine requires no doctoring.

At Ragosa, after the vintage, all the great wine merchants of Oporto assemble, and there make their purchases for the ensuing season. All transactions are made in cash, for the wine growers are very important and wealthy personages. The merchants are equally so, and take their cash with them. I heard an anecdote when there, which says much for the honesty of the Portuguese. M. Sandeman, one of the wealthiest and most important wine merchants of Oporto, went up to the wine district after the vintage one season, with his sons and friends—for it is generally made a party of pleasure—to purchase wine for the ensuing season, and they took 15,000l. in gold to make their purchases, the gold being carried in sacks on mules, the whole party riding, as usual, for there were no roads for carriages. The first night, having arrived at their usual halting-place, just as they were sitting down to their supper, old Sandeman said to his son, “George, I hope that you have taken good care of the mules and the money?” “Yes, father,” said George; “it is all right.” “Well, George,” said old Sandeman, “you had better go and see.” George immediately went out to the stables, and after some minutes came back in great consternation, and said, “Father, I can’t find the mules with the money.” At this old Sandeman got in a great rage, and said, “George, you shall have no supper until you find them.” The whole party got up at the same time, and took lanterns and torches to look after the lost money and mules. Away they went back several miles on the road they had come, and there they found the mules, which had slipped their halters, quietly feeding by the roadside, with the bags of gold untouched. They returned with them to the inn with much satisfaction, got the mules comfortably installed in their stables, having previously relieved them of the gold bags, which they took to their bedrooms. Now perhaps in no other country could you have found such an example of honesty as this. It was well known before they started from Oporto that the Sandemans were going up to the wine country to purchase wines for the ensuing season; and as they were the most wealthy merchants of the place, it was equally well known that they would buy the largest quantity of wine, and would take the greatest amount of hard cash to pay for it; therefore, if the natives wished to make a prize, here was an excellent opportunity to do so. But quite the contrary, the natives were honest, and had not the least idea of robbing, which they might have done, if so disposed, most easily.

From this place we proceeded leisurely to Guimaraens, one of the ancient capitals of Portugal. The natives appeared different from any I had seen. The better classes were dressed in jackets, ornamented with large silver buttons, knee-breeches, leggings, and silver-buckled shoes; having over all a loose, blue cloth cloak, and a large, conical, broad-brimmed black felt hat. It seemed to be a place wholly sui generis, and totally separated from the rest of the world. The well-to-do people seemed to have nothing to do but to walk leisurely about conversing with their friends, and smoking their cigarettes. There was no trade, no bustle, nothing, as it were, moving; it was one of those places where a man disgusted with the world would wish to bury himself. The repose was something surprising to a person accustomed to active life. We found a pretty good inn, and a convent with a few old nuns, who were still allowed to live there, and who employed themselves in preserving in a particular manner a very fine sort of plum that grows in the neighbourhood. They fetch a high price in all European markets; I bought a few to take to England. There is a splendid old Moorish castle outside the town, which, although in ruins, was not in a very bad state. Upon the whole I was much pleased with the place, so totally different from anything I had seen either in Portugal or Spain. I should have liked much to have spent several days there, but the inexorable time would not permit; we therefore set out the next day for Braga, and passing through the beautiful environs, which are a perfect garden, we continued our way through a well-cultivated and picturesque country, and reached Braga soon after midday.

Braga, also one of the ancient capitals of Portugal, is a handsome town, more modern than Guimaraens, also much more lively, and surrounded by a rich, fertile, picturesque country. It is well built, with handsome streets, and squares upon a moderate scale, with an appearance of quiet imposing dignity. It is the residence of many old families, who seem to enjoy their otium cum dignitate, and to be wholly independent of the world. They appeared to be above the grovelling pursuits of trade, for there was certainly little appearance of business about, yet withal we could not help admiring its clean, comfortable, well-to-do appearance.

From here we proceeded over a tolerable road towards Viana, the sea being about a mile distant; and the intervening space, composed of rich alluvial soil, was well cultivated. We passed several granite crosses, erected near the village churches, one of which was extremely elegant, beautifully worked in a species of Corinthian style. I never saw granite so elaborately worked as in this part of Portugal, namely, the district between the Douro and the Minho; in fact, they have no other stone but granite, and no other people work it so well; but then the natives are the most docile and industrious in Portugal. They are never idle; constantly at work, either abroad or at home, and saving money. Large numbers emigrate to the Brazils, where by their energy and industry they may acquire ample fortunes, and return home to their native country, where they buy an estate, build a handsome house, and spend the remainder of their lives in tranquillity and enjoyment.

On reaching Vigo, after passing through Viana, I found that I had to wait two days for the steamer. I could not help remarking the superior beauty of the Spanish as compared with the Portuguese women, a thing I could not well understand, as the personal appearance of the men is about the same in both countries, although the Spanish peasants are apparently more robust than those of Portugal.

Immediately on my return I set to work to carry out the instructions of the Marquis de LoulÉ, and endeavoured to obtain powerful contractors and wealthy and influential capitalists who would form a company to undertake the railways in Portugal. I frequently had communications with Messrs. Peto and Betts, who with their friends were perfectly ready to come forward to form a company, provided that Messrs. Shaw, Waring, and Co. were satisfactorily settled with. In these negotiations M. de Soveral was indefatigable, and of immense service, as he was perfectly acquainted with the views of his Government, and knew what would be acceptable to them, and what they would not agree to. At last, towards the latter end of December, certain conditions stating the terms upon which they would form a company and find the capital were drawn up and signed by Messrs. Peto and Betts, and seven other well-known capitalists, and were submitted to the Portuguese Embassy, to be transmitted to the Government for their approval. Towards the end of January, 1857, they answered that they generally approved of the conditions proposed, with one or two exceptions, which Peto, Betts, and Co. agreed to alter. The Government then sent an official letter to Count Lavradio, Ambassador in London, requesting that Sir Moreton Peto and myself would come out to Lisbon immediately, to finally conclude the arrangements, in order that a Bill might be prepared without delay to be laid before the Portuguese parliament. In March, 1857, I accordingly proceeded to Lisbon.

It is not my intention to enter into the unfortunate disputes between Peto and Co. and the Portuguese Government—disputes which terminated in the abandonment of what would have been for Portugal a great national work. Doubtless, as in all these cases, there were faults on both sides; and I believe that one of the main causes of the failure, on behalf of Messrs. Peto and Betts, to carry out the works, was that their resources were swallowed up by a great variety of speculations, some of which, as we have seen, did not in the long run turn out very profitable, and they were really unable to undertake them. I will proceed to relate briefly the only other occasion on which I was connected with that firm.

But first I may mention that I completed my work on ‘British and Foreign Harbours’ (which had occupied what little leisure I could command during some years) in 1854, having previously, in 1847, published a monograph on Plymouth Breakwater. I may also add, that conjunction with the late Mr. John Plews, I constructed a considerable extension of the Cardiff Docks for the trustees of the Marquis of Bute; as it is fully described in the above work, I need not here further refer to it.

In the early part of 1859 I was asked to proceed to Tunis, in company with one of Messrs. Peto and Betts’ agents, to examine into the feasibility of constructing a railway from the Goletta to the city. I accordingly started in March, and having embarked on board a French steam-packet, reached Tunis after a four or five days’ passage, including a stoppage, for some unexplained reason, of two days at Philippeville.

The view of the Bay of Tunis cannot be compared in picturesque effect with that of Bona, which we had just left; still there is something wild and striking about it. On the east the bay is bounded by a lofty ridge of bare irregular hills, with a narrow strip of level marshy land bordering the bay. On the west it is bounded by the celebrated peninsula of Carthage. In front, to the south, there is the Goletta, or channel to the Lagoon, surrounded by the custom house and a small town, and beyond is the Lagoon, extending about six miles, at the farther end of which is the city of Tunis, seated upon a gentle eminence, bristling with minarets, and a lofty chain of hills in the background, the whole having a wild, uncultivated appearance, so that at first sight you were puzzled to conceive whence supplies could be obtained for feeding the metropolis of the kingdom. We got clear of the Turkish customs after a good deal of delay, not from any fastidiousness of the officials, for they were easy and good-natured enough to let anything pass, but from the confused and blundering manner in which all business is transacted. Everything was then bundled into a large boat, which was also laden with merchandise of all kinds, as much as it would hold. We then entered, along with a Colonel West, who had come out upon a shooting excursion, and set sail for the capital across the Lagoon, which was about six miles long and four or five miles wide. The channel was nearly in the centre, and had five or six feet of water. We passed numerous flocks of wild geese, ducks, cranes, and flamingoes, disporting themselves in the water. We reached the landing quay of Tunis, outside the walls, about two or three in the afternoon, and immediately proceeded to the only hotel in the place, kept by a Frenchman, and, upon the whole, it was very clean and comfortable; but before we could get to it we had to wade through a sea of filthy mud in a narrow lane that was scarcely 12 feet wide, bounded by the city wall on the one side, and a row of miserable buildings on the other, showing little more than bare walls, the windows looking into small courts on the inside, which were approached by solid well-barred gateways. It was nearly dark before we got installed in our new domicile, and then we dined at not a bad table d’hÔte in the French fashion, passed the evening agreeably, and went to bed early, rather tired after the kind of knocking about we had had during the day. Fortunately the weather was fine after the great quantity of rain which had lately fallen. The next day was fine also, and after an early breakfast we got a carriage with a couple of horses, and drove along the west side of the Lagoon to the Goletta in order to select the line for the railway; nothing could be more favourable, the country being—to use a homely phrase—as flat as a pancake, and therefore required no particular exercise of the engineer’s art.

Having so far completed our investigation we adjourned to the examination of the ruins of Carthage, of which scarcely anything remains, except the cisterns for supplying the city with water, which are of massive masonry, the walls being lined on the inside with a thick coat of stucco, which was glazed, and presented an excellent, smooth surface. These cisterns were covered with arches, so that the water was preserved from the action of the sun, and was thus always kept cool and in the best state for use. The water was brought, by means of an aqueduct, from a fine and plentiful spring close by the mountain of Kegouan, about 40 miles distant, and was carried with the requisite inclination by means of tunnels pierced through the hills, and extensive lines of arched aqueducts across the intervening valleys, some of these aqueducts being above 60 feet high, and the total length of the tunnels several miles; in fact, the whole aqueduct was a series of tunnels and bridges about 40 miles long, and is certainly a most extraordinary work, not to be surpassed by anything of the kind in existence at the present day. The conduit for the water was about 2 feet 6 inches wide and 3 feet deep. In this single example we have nearly all the improvements of modern times, namely, excellent water, an ample supply, and covered storing reservoirs. The water required no filtering, but it has not been ascertained whether it was distributed to each house; probably not; most likely it was delivered to the fountains, where the natives sent for it. As baths are known to have existed at Carthage, it is probable that the water was supplied direct to them as well as to the houses of the more wealthy citizens and to the palaces. Iron pipes were not then known, and consequently they were obliged to carry the water on aqueducts, otherwise they had no mean of resisting the hydraulic pressure.

Besides these cisterns, one cannot make out distinctly any other remarkable buildings; but there are plenty of remains of foundations of walls, some of them of masonry and some of them of brickwork, showing great solidity; there are also great quantities of pottery and fragments of marble sculpture lying about. As to the celebrated arsenals and docks, it is still more difficult to point out satisfactorily their extent, form, and position; but from the accounts we find in ancient writers, and from the well-known recorded fact that the Carthaginians were a great commercial as well as warlike nation, it is evident that they must have possessed the means of building, sheltering, and repairing both classes of vessels, those for commerce and those for war. These docks and arsenals must have been on the sea-shore; the peninsula is composed of comparatively high land, and they could not have built them anywhere else, for the low lands which border the peninsula on the south side were not, so far as we can learn, included within the walls of the city, and it was not likely that they would have left such important establishments as these, upon which in a great measure their power depended, unprotected. I repeat, therefore, and I believe it is confirmed by most authorities, ancient as well as modern, that these docks and arsenals were on the sea-shore; and as they would not have built them on the northern side of the peninsula, which is so much exposed to the strong northerly gales, they must have placed them on the eastern shore, which is tolerably well protected by the opposite sides of the bay. Indeed, I walked round the northern shores of the peninsula and carefully examined them, and could find no traces of any works having been executed there; but upon the eastern shore I could discover traces of considerable works. The ships of those days were comparatively small and drew but little water, and by running out moles or breakwaters of loose stone into the sea, a sufficient space might have been enclosed to answer the required purposes. We know that the ancestors of the Carthaginians did this to a great extent at Tyre, and we can have no reason to doubt that they adopted the same system at Carthage. This is a question still open to discussion; but I think, after what has been stated, that the arguments are in favour of the eastern shore; and until more decisive remains have been found elsewhere, I must adhere to my conclusion, for we must not forget that this is the weather shore, where all such works should be carried out, so as to afford the greatest facility for egress and ingress.

As the Bey was not then in Tunis, I determined to make use of the interval by going to see the remains of the ancient city of Utica, about twenty miles distant, west-north-west. My two companions were not very well, and therefore thought that they had better remain at Tunis, in case anything connected with our business should occur; so I determined to go alone, as I was told that I should meet with no difficulty, for the country was perfectly safe. I accordingly hired a carriage with three excellent horses, and engaged a clever Frank servant, an Italian, half Jew, half Mohammedan, who had lived many years in Tunis, and besides English, French, and Italian, spoke the Arabic very well also. He was a clean fellow, and was well recommended by our vice-consul. Being told that I should find nothing on the way, I took a good provision basket and plenty of cloaks. We started soon after noon over a wretched road, or rather open track made by the peasants’ carts, and as the weather had been very wet the wheels of the carriage were frequently half-way up to the axles in mud. The country through which we passed was wild and lonely in the extreme, not a creature to be seen. After having driven about eight or ten miles we came to a kind of village, or cluster of about half-a-dozen mud huts whitewashed, where there was a sort of cafÉ of the roughest kind, and close by it there was a sort of chÂteau belonging to some aga or district chief, surrounded by trees and a rude wall, the whole having a most solitary and gloomy appearance. There we halted about half an hour to refresh the horses, which were tired enough, and at length we reached the caravanserai, a solitary building two stories high, surrounded by a high mud wall.

It would be difficult to conceive a wilder or more desolate spot. In front was an extensive marsh, half covered with water, through which the river pursued its devious course, the banks being covered with rushes; at the back lay the dreary country through which we had passed; to the right the marshy plain extended to the sea, some 10 miles distant, and to the left it stretched as far as the eye could reach, bounded by blue hills of considerable elevation. There was not a soul in the house but the kanghÈ or master, and another man and a boy. He welcomed me, however, very civilly, and showed me to the upper floor by an outside staircase; here I found two rooms with bare walls, brick floor, a trestle for a mattress, a wooden table, and a couple of rude chairs; to my great delight there was a chimney-place, in which I soon lighted a wood fire. The kanghÈ brought up a couple of tolerably clean mattresses, two oil lamps, and some bread, and water, which was all he had. This, however, was of no consequence, as I had come provided, and after a good supper, in spite of the loneliness of the place I slept soundly. As there, was no road any farther, it was necessary to provide horses to go to Utica the next day, which the kanghÈ said he would do. At daybreak we mounted, and were just about starting when we were joined by an aga, a fine handsome fellow, exceedingly well mounted. He was accompanied by two or three servants, also well mounted and armed. The aga saluted me very courteously, and said he was proud to see Englishmen, and that if I was fond of sporting he would be most happy to see me at his castle, and would show me some capital sport, wild boars, deer, partridges, quail, &c.; for this kind invitation I thanked him, but was obliged to decline on account of want of time. We rode together along the marshy plain, our horses at times being up to their knees in water, and crossed the river by a rough stone bridge, immediately beyond which we reached the high land which bounds the river on the west. Here we parted in the most courteous manner, and I continued along the left bank for two or three miles farther, when I reached the ruins of Utica, situated at the foot of the hills, at a height of about 30 feet above the level of the bottom of the valley, and about a mile distant from the left bank of the river, and 5 miles from the sea-shore, with nothing but a dreary flat marsh intervening. Utica was originally seated on the sea-shore, and was a port of considerable importance; the marshes that now exist have been gradually formed during the lapse of centuries; and in this there is nothing remarkable, as there are many similar examples, even to a much greater extent, at the mouths of rivers in different parts of the world.

Of the city nothing now remains but portions of the broken down walls, a square tower near the middle, and some remains of foundations scattered about. Nothing could be more desolate and solitary than the whole scene, which afforded a most striking contrast to its former magnificence; and reflecting upon its ancient compared with its present state, one could not help remarking, “Alas, poor human nature!”

On my return from Utica I found that His Highness the Bey had consented to receive us at his palace, distant about 12 miles from Tunis, on the following day at eleven o’clock. We accordingly started off about eight o’clock, and got there in good time, and were presented to the Bey—who was seated in great state and surrounded by his officers—by our consul, Mr. Wood, and were most graciously received. The Bey was about fifty-five, of the middle size, rather stout, with an open, frank, kind countenance; he conversed in Arabic with the consul in the most genial manner, said he was glad to see us, and was much pleased at the idea of having railways in his kingdom, about which he had heard so much; he said he would give us every assistance in his power, and hoped that this would lead to other European improvements, that would tend so much to the prosperity of his country. After about twenty minutes of very agreeable conversation we retired, very much pleased with his Highness’s courteous reception. In front of the palace there was an encampment of about 2000 troops of all kinds, horse, foot, and artillery, whom the Bey was in the habit of reviewing daily.

The remainder of the story is soon told. We knew perfectly well that the French were very jealous of any foreign capital or enterprise being introduced into Tunis, that the consul was somewhat suspicious of us, and that he and his spies were always on the watch: we were warned of this, and advised to be very cautious. So well was our secret kept, that the French consul had come to the conclusion that we were nothing but a party of ordinary travellers, and was just getting rid of his suspicions. On the other hand, the Bey and his Divan had agreed to grant a most favourable concession, and there can be no doubt that the line would have succeeded admirably in every respect. But in an evil moment Messrs. Peto’s agents discovered that they could not make a proper report to their employers without taking levels. In vain I represented the extreme imprudence of such a proceeding; that it was a mere surface line, without the slightest engineering difficulty, and which did not present the least obstacle; moreover, that the land was to be conceded free of all cost, and that, in short, there was nothing which men of their experience could not estimate accurately without taking the smallest measurement. They persisted in their intention, and, of course, the moment they got out their instruments the French consul understood the whole affair, and in an audience with the Bey threatened him with the vengeance of France if the concession were granted. The poor Bey had no alternative but to submit, and there the whole matter ended.

Before leaving Tunis I saw all the different sights; amongst others, serpent charming, which is quite a profession. The charmers display considerable dexterity; indeed, it is a profession of long standing. The northern portion of Africa, on account of its sandy and sultry climate, is peculiarly well adapted for the breeding of serpents of the most venomous kinds, and in consequence they attain an enormous size and secrete a large amount of poison. The bites of many of the species are fatal, and hence it has become for ages past the object of certain of the natives to study the habits and characteristics of these reptiles and the antidotes to cure any unfortunate individual who may by chance have been bitten by them; indeed, the Roman armies during their campaigns in this part of the world were always accompanied by a certain number of these serpent charmers, and the profession exists at the present day. You find them in Egypt and throughout the whole of the northern part of Africa, and they not only practise the cure of serpent bites, but also collect numbers of them for exhibition to the multitude, to show their power over them, and by this means realize a considerable amount of money. At Tunis I saw several of these serpent charmers, who were always surrounded by a large crowd. They appeared to have complete control over the reptiles; they always kept their eyes constantly upon them, and regulated their movements by a wand in their hands, whilst an attendant boy kept time by beating a small drum and blowing a pipe with a low monotonous sound.

I was much surprised to find the natives so very civilized; we walked about the town, in the suburbs, and in the country, without experiencing the smallest molestation or incivility. I was told that robberies were very rare, and that frequently large sums of money were sent by a single messenger on a dromedary from Tunis to Tripoli without the least danger of being robbed. There were scarcely any palm trees to be seen, but we had plenty of the finest dates, which were brought from the interior, I think Tafilet.

Upon the whole I was much pleased with Tunis. It is a country possessing great natural resources of all kinds, by which, if only properly developed, this kingdom might be again rendered very powerful, as it was in the time of the Carthaginians and Romans, when, it is said, it contained above ten millions of inhabitants, whereas at present there are little more than two millions.