Quitting Shrewsbury by the suburb of Coleham, and proceeding for about a mile along a narrow lane, we reach Sutton Spa. Few countries in Europe can boast of more medicinal or mineral waters than England, the virtues of which have been well established, not from vulgar experience only, but from the repeated examinations of the most skilful physicians. The uncommon frequency of the healing springs may rationally be attributed to the lixivious quality of our rain water, to the variety of rich soils, with the spoils of which, from their property of dissolving, they must be fraught, and to the wonderful and inimitable chemistry of nature by which they are so happily impregnated as to become the easiest and surest remedies of the most grievous and otherwise incurable diseases.
For the following account of this Spa the author is indebted to a paper drawn up by Dr. Evans, (now of Llwynygroes,) and inserted in the Agricultural Survey of Shropshire by the Rev. Archdeacon Corbett:
“Sutton Spa is situated about two miles south of Shrewsbury, on the slope of a gentle eminence, and close to a village of the same name. The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash coloured clay, or argillaceous schistus, containing (as appears by its effervescence with nitrous acid) a small portion of lime. Fresh from the spring, the Sutton water is clear and colourless, and exales a slightly sulphureous smell; which is most perceptible in rainy weather. It sparkles little when poured into a glass, having no uncombined carbonic acid in its composition. When first drawn its strong salt taste is evidently mixed with a chalybeate flavour; but the latter is wholly lost on exposure for a few hours, bubbles of air separating slowly, and a reddish sediment lining the sides and bottom of the vessel.
“The Sutton water has by many been compared with that of Cheltenham, and supposed to contain nearly the same ingredients. It bears, however, a much closer resemblance to sea-water, and has accordingly been found most beneficial in those cases for which sea-water is usually recommended.
“In the case of scrophula, the superior merits of sea-water has been uniformly and universally acknowledged. A similarity of ingredients would naturally lead us to expect similar effects from the Sutton water; and I am happy to bear testimony, that a twenty years practice at the Salop Infirmary, as well as in private practice, has furnished me with abundant proofs of its success in the treatment of scrophulous affections; and in addition to the properties possessed by the Sutton-spring in common with sea-water, it enjoys one evident advantage in containing iron. [108]“The air of Sutton, as might be expected from its open elevated situation, is dry and wholesome. The site commands a rich and highly variegated prospect, bounded on one side by the magnificent group of Breyddin and Moel y Golfa, with a long range of Welsh mountains rising in full majesty behind them; and on the other by their no mean rivals, the Wrekin and Stretton Hills. The view of Shrewsbury, betwixt the branches of the adjoining wood, particularly when the setting sun gilds every object with his mellowest light, is greatly and most deservedly admired. The walk from Shrewsbury is pleasant and picturesque; and the neighbourhood of a reasonable and abundant market, can be considered as no trifling object, when compared with the extravagant prices and scanty accommodations of many of our remote watering-places.”
Since the before-named estimable and respectable physician drew up the account (about 1801) of the Spa, from which the above is extracted, a neat cottage and baths for hot and cold bathing have been erected by the noble proprietor, provided with comfortable accommodations for invalids. We cannot help thinking, that “while almost every fishing village on the coast is preparing conveniences for sea-bathing, how desirable would it be to extend similar advantages to the interior parts of the island, where poverty or infirmity render it impossible to visit the distant sea.”
The town is regained by a pleasant walk along the lane above the Spa, which leads the tourist into the Abbey Foregate, very near to the column erected in honour of Lord Hill.
Shelton Oak,
Stands about one mile and a half from Shrewsbury, just where the Pool road diverges from that which leads to Oswestry. This oak is remarkable, as well for its size as its traditional history. Owen Glyndwr is said to have ascended it at the battle of Shrewsbury to reconnoitre; but finding that the king had a numerous army, and that Northumberland had not joined his son Hotspur, he fell back to Oswestry, and, immediately after the battle, retreated precipitately into Wales.
The tree is now in a complete state of decay, even its larger ramifications; and within the hollow of it at bottom six persons at least may sit down and partake of refreshment.
Excursion to Haughmond Abbey and Uffington.
The pedestrian may, in this walk proceed either along the turnpike road or by the side of the river; we shall make choice, however, of the former, on account of its facility for the description of several interesting objects which present themselves on the route.
Proceeding from the town through the suburb of Castle Foregate, we leave the extensive linen factory of Messrs. Marshall, and Co. on the left, the monotonous noise from the machinery of which is very agreeably relieved by the pleasant and extensive view that presents itself, in conjunction with the bleaching fields belonging to Messrs. Benyons’ factory on the right, and renders the prospect extremely interesting. At the distance of one mile from the town, on the left, is the Old Heath. Previous to the erection of the present excellent prison, all condemned malefactors expiated their offences by the sacrifice of their lives to the offended laws of their country in a field which adjoins the road at this place. Continuing our jaunt to the turnpike, and keeping to the right, at the distance of about 2½ mites from Shrewsbury we reach Sundorn Castle, the residence of Mrs. Corbet. The landscape in travelling along this road is exquisitely beautiful; rich corn fields and pastures demonstrate the fertility of the soil, watered by the majestic stream of the Severn, with a great number of rivulets which, descending from the uplands, pour their tributary streams into that river; while the pleasant seats and farm houses, thickly scattered through the scene in contemplation, and surrounded by clumps of trees and copse wood, satisfy the spectator that nature has not in this neighbourhood lavished her treasures in vain.
The elegant mansion of Sundorn was erected in the castellated style by the late John Corbet, Esq.: Its site in a beautiful lawn, the venerable appearance of the castle, the sloping banks which surround the large sheet of water covered with plantations, the rich verdure of the adjoining woods, numerous corn fields and pasture grounds tufted with trees, the hedgerows and walks happily arranged, the bold appearance of the castle on the adjoining hill, diversify the scene and render the tout ensemble extremely interesting.
Within the demesne of Sundorn, the remains of Haughmond Abbey are situated. Of the foundation of this once venerable pile there is now no entire trace. Of the Abbey-church, nothing remains but the south door of the nave, a most beautiful and highly adorned round arch, resting on slender shafts, between which on each side have been inserted a Gothic tabernacle, inclosing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The chapter-house is entire; it is oblong, with the upper end forming two sides of a hexagon. The roof is of fine oak, and above has been another story. The entrance is by a richly decorated round arch, with a window on each side, divided into two round arched compartments, by slender short pillars. The spaces between the shafts of these arches have Gothic niches, and statues of the Virgin Mary, Gabriel, St. Catherine, St. John, &c. South of the chapter house, and opposite the site of the church, are remains of the Refectory, and beyond a large building, consisting of a spacious hall, eighty-one feet by thirty-six, lighted by Gothic windows on each side, and a large one, once filled with tracery, at the west end. On the north side is a curious antique fire-place. Communicating with this, at the eastern extremity, and at right angles, is another apartment of nearly the same size, once evidently in two rooms. At the south end is an elegant bay window. It is conceived this building formed the abbot’s lodgings and hall. The situation of the Abbey on a rising ground, backed by a noble distant forest, commands a very rich and extensive view of the great plain of Shrewsbury, with the town and castle, enriched by mountainous tracts.
Proceeding from the Abbey along the bottom of the wood, and ascending the hill, we reach a shooting box, erected in the form of an ancient turret, by the late Mr. Corbet. Near it Lord Douglas, in the battle of Shrewsbury, was taken prisoner, in attempting to precipitate himself down the steep, when his horse fell under him, and he received a severe contusion on the knee. On reaching the summit of this hill, the traveller will enjoy a beautiful prospect. His attention is lost in variety; and his imagination for a while suspends its powers in contemplating indiscriminately the vast but diversified assemblage. In this situation he will recollect with pleasure the animated lines of Thomson, whose descriptive genius must continue to do honour to his country, as long as taste and elegance are regarded.
“Meantime you gain the height, from whose fair brow
The bursting prospect spreads immense around,
And snatch’d o’er hill, and dale, and wood, and lawn,
And verdant fields, and darkening heath between,
And villages embosom’d soft in trees,
And spiring towns, by surging columns mark’d
Of household smoke, your eye excursive roams,
Wide stretching from the hall, [113] in whose kind haunt
The hospitable genius lingers still,
To where the broken landscape, by degrees
Ascending, roughens into rigid hills.”
The spectator, if he has any taste for the sublime and beautiful in nature, will find himself abundantly repaid for the labour of the ascent. His eyes will wander with pleasure over the beautiful villas, the retreat of the rich and affluent, diversified with woods and corn-fields, that present themselves on the fertile plain adjoining the hill. Immediately before him, he will discover the ancient town of Shrewsbury, with its lofty spires, its noble river and canal, whilst in the distance a range of green mountains, interspersed with woods, that seem to be carelessly scattered on their sloping sides, form a suitable background to this picturesque and interesting scene.
Descending from the hill, we immediately reach the pleasant village of Uffington, situated on the banks of the Severn, where at the Bowling Green excellent accommodations will be met with. From hence the canal and river side afford a pleasant walk, which reconducts us to our starting place—Shrewsbury.
Attingham Hall,
Distant about four miles on the London road, is built of beautiful free stone, and is situated in a very extensive lawn on the banks of the river Tern, over which is a handsome bridge erected by the late lord Berwick. The south front, which is upwards of 365 feet in length, has an extremely grand appearance; being decorated with lofty Ionic pilasters and a magnificent portico. The interior of the house has much to recommend it, particularly its lofty and spacious hall, the entablature of which is supported by Verd Antique Scaglioni columns, with statuary capitals and bases. The picture gallery is a spacious room 78 feet 6 inches long, by 25 feet 6 inches wide, and 24 feet high. It contains many chef d’oeuvres of the old masters, particularly some valuable ones by Raffaello—Parmigiano—Paolo Veronese—Annibal Caracci—Rubens—Vandyck—Poussin—Kuyp—the Ostade’s—Murillo—Salvator Rosa—Berchem. The walls of this elegant room are of a deep lake colour; the ceiling supported by porphyry columns of the Corinthian order, the capitals and bases of which are beautifully gilded. Underneath the cornice of this extensive room is a gold fringe of great depth. The floor is inlaid with rich Mosaic work, and the grand staircase is finished in a corresponding style of magnificence. The suite of drawing rooms is superbly furnished with immense plate glasses and burnished gold furniture, and the ceilings are richly gilt. The boudoir is a beautiful small circular room, the pannels of which are decorated by the pencil of one of our first artists. The library is in the west wing, and is a very extensive and lofty room, the cornice is supported by rich Corinthian pilasters; and besides a very valuable collection of books, it contains several rare specimens of sculpture from the antique. Among those most worthy notice is a font [115] from Hadrian’s Villa; on the basso relievo on its exterior the story of Narcissus is beautifully told. A rich candelabra from the antique, of exquisite workmanship, near ten feet high—a fine colossal statue of Apollo Belvidere—a beautiful Esculapius—with a splendid collection of Etruscan vases from Herculaneum, busts, chimeras, &c. &c. The rooms on the first floor correspond in the grandeur and magnificence of their furniture with those on the ground floor.
The house was built originally from a design by Mr. Stewart, but it has lately undergone a very extensive alteration, under the superintendance of Mr. Nash; the rich and costly carvings and ornamental furniture, were executed by Mr. Donaldson, of Shrewsbury, whose correct taste in that fine art is too well appreciated to need any eulogium here.
The situation of the house is healthy and delightful; and the grounds contiguous thereto have lately been much improved. The view of this elegant seat, from the public road near the before-mentioned bridge has a fine effect: its beautiful front—the extensive shrubberies—with the park richly clothed with fine timber on the back ground, rising to a considerable height above the mansion; whilst in the distance on the left will be seen the pleasing village of Atcham—its parish church—and bridge, present, even to the passing stranger, a very pleasing scene. The gardens, walks and pleasure grounds, are laid out with taste, and display some very fine scenery.
Hawkstone,
The seat of the noble and celebrated family of the Hills, is situated on the eastern border of the county, about 14 miles from Salop, and though with regard to the surrounding country it may be said to stand on an extensive plain, it in itself consists of a group of prominent and astonishingly romantic rocks, forming by far one of the most attractive features, not only of this, but perhaps, taken altogether, of any other county. To attempt a particular or even a general description, would very far exceed the limits of our whole book, as a cursory inspection of its wonders occupies a walk of several days. General Paoli, who visited this place before the late improvements, publicly declared that in all his extensive travels, not even excepting Italy or Switzerland, there were some scenes here that surpassed in grandeur any thing he had seen.—A slight notice of some of its principal beauties will best become our humble efforts in so limited a work. The house, though spacious and elegant, and not of very ancient erection, notwithstanding it is embellished with some fine specimens of sculpture and painting, forms but a small part of what is sought after here; the attractive powers of Hawkstone consisting entirely in the enchantment of the surrounding scenery. Three or four massive rocks irregularly grouped, with their fine wooded sides disclosing at intervals abrupt crags, towers, and shelving precipices, with intermediate vallies of still seclusion and spreading lawns of verdant freshness, together with many a broad expanse of park, studded with luxuriant trees either grouped in groves, or single in feathery fullness, the whole enlivened by inhabitants appropriate, picture to the sight both at once and successively—scenes only equalled and seldom surpassed, even in the poetic regions of luxuriant romance.—The Grotto is approached through a stupendous natural chasm of great length, and narrowing till but one person at a time can pass, while over head the sky is just seen at a great height; a dark cavern is then passed, and the sky is again for a moment seen, when entering another cavern of complete darkness and gradual ascent, the grotto is, after considerable, though perfectly safe wandering, entered: the first appearance of this spacious cavern is truly sublime, as it is seen by the glimmering light of variously stained glass, throwing its lurid and sepulchral faintness on the massive pillars, till at length the grotto is entered with all its brilliance: It consists of a very extensive excavation, finely fretted to its termination with a profusion of rich petrifactions, shells, and marine productions. In one of its awful recesses, through an iron grate, is seen the figure of a British Druid, in complete costume, passing amid the massy pillars, in a dim and green light.—After various windings, a door suddenly opens in the summit of the precipice, where, over the shelving rocks below, and far above the highest forests, a scene of magnificence bursts on the eye exceeding almost conception. This height is with some difficulty descended by innumerable winding steps cut in the solid rock.
A Scene in Switzerland is presented here on the heathy summit of one of the mountains, where a narrow plank bridge crosses a deep chasm, and connects two rocks of terrific height and cragginess.The terrace formed on the ridge of one of the hills, finely wooded, is terminated by an octagon summer-house, that commands a prospect of astonishing extent, from whence the bordering mountains of Wales, with parts of no less than 13 counties, are distinctly enumerated.—Near this place is a Column, 112 feet high, surmounted with a colossal statue of sir Rowland Hill, the first protestant lord mayor of London, in 1550, the 3rd year of Edward VI. In a most romantic glen, near this place, is an Urn, erected by the late sir Richard Hill, purporting that it was the hiding-place of one of his ancestors, during the civil wars of Edward I. while his house was ravaged by the parliament soldiers; but that his son speedily came to his assistance: the approach to and from it now is much facilitated, without destroying the wildness of the scene, by extensive passages and steps. Beyond this is a well-stocked Menagerie of living Animals, principally birds.—From hence, round the sudden and abrupt corner of a rock, and through the cleft body of an old oak, is entered one of the sweetest vallies imagination can tint, and most properly called Elysium: It is bounded completely by wooded and inaccessible rocks, and can only be entered at this narrow passage, or at the extreme termination of its extent, about half a mile.—On the most western of this group of rocks are the remains of Red Castle, built in the reign of Henry III., though it is mentioned by this name in a grant as ancient as William the Conqueror. It is now in awful ruins; but lofty fragments of its walls form some of the most picturesque beauties of this romantic place; and fling on the mind, if such scenes needed it, the additional charm of that strange feeling that antiquity and fallen grandeur never fail to excite. Amid these towers is a well of surprising depth; called now the Giant’s Well. The site of this castle is ascended and descended (as is usual amid most of the strange scenes here) by steps cut in the rocks; and very frequently through caverns, sometimes natural, but always surprising. At the bottom of one of these is suddenly seen a Lion in his den, which, though assuredly a trifling toy amid such scenery, never fails to astonish the generality of visitors.—Here is also a Scene in Otaheite, consisting chiefly of a Hut, built exactly on the model of what our lamented countryman, Captain Cook witnessed in that happy island, and ornamented accordingly: the scene wherein it is erected first pointed out the propriety.
To enumerate, much more to describe, all, or even the principal attractions of this wonderful place, would, as we before stated, very far exceed the limits we have allotted thereunto: yet before we close, as we would willingly please readers of every description, it may not be amiss to notice what is not improperly called Neptune’s Whim, a spot no doubt most largely applauded by the generality of visitors here. It is very properly detached at a tolerable distance from the principal scenery of Hawkstone; and consists of a cottage ornamented with shell-work and cinders, amid ponds of fish; behind which is a mighty figure of the marine god, with a profuse current gushing through his urn; he is accompanied, of course, by his Tritons and Nereids, spouting water through their leaden shells. This is acknowledgedly a whim of his godship, whereof he partakes with mortals; nor can these trifles, or even some of the inscriptions, tend to lessen the august grandeur of this most magnificent spot, wherein art has had little more to do than clear a path, for the votaries of nature to have access to her most sportive and astonishing charms.
What skill, what force divine,
Deep felt in these appear! a simple train,
Yet so delightful mix’d, with such kind art,
Such beauty and beneficence combin’d;
Shade, unperceiv’d, so softening into shade;
And all so forming an harmonious whole;
That as they still succeed they ravish still.
Thomson.
At the entrance to the Park is erected a very handsome and commodious Inn, capacious enough for the reception of a number of families; many of which frequently spend a considerable part of the summer in this delightful spot. The attention of the worthy host and the excellence of the accommodations, provisions and wines, must be experienced to be duly appreciated.
Decorative graphic of building with tree, and houses with church in background
Howell, Printer.
