| Chapter I. |
| UP THE YANG-TSZE TO WESTERN CHINA. |
| PAGE |
| Western China and the interest attaching to it—The way thither—An unsuccessful attempt to reach Ichang—Ichang at last—Difficulties of navigation—Commercial importance of Ichang—My native passenger-boat, opium-smoking skipper, and crew—The navigability of the Upper Yang-tsze by steamers—Dangers and difficulties of the Ching T’an Rapid—Up and down the rapid—The poppy—Ch’ung-k’ing. | 1 |
| Chapter II. |
| CH’UNG-K’ING TO THE CAPITAL OF KUEI-CHOW. |
| My overland caravan—Harvesting opium—Field-fishing—Wood-oil—The manufacture of paper—Salt carriers—Silkworms and their food—Rice or Pith paper, and its manufacture—The Kuei-chow frontier—Minerals—First meeting with Miao-tz?—Poetical description of Chinese inns—T’ung-tz?, its poppy valley and tunnelling—Ingenious bamboo water-wheels—Scant population amid ruins of fine houses—Coal-dust as fuel—The Wu Chiang River—Destruction of the iron suspension bridge—Northern Kuei-chow, a Miao-tz? graveyard—Opium-sodden inhabitants—The capital of the Province—An interview with the Governor of Kuei-chow | 14 |
| Chapter III. |
| WESTWARD TO YÜN-NAN. |
| White wax insects—Terrific hailstorm and its effects—Miao-tz? houses and women—An-shun Fu—Limestone cave—Pai-shui waterfall—Reception at Lang-t’ai T’ing—Lang-wang Mountain and the “Cave of the Spirits”—Caught in a thunderstorm—The pebbly strand of the Mao-k’ou River—Pack-animals and their treatment—The YÜn-nan frontier—A cart at last—Exploring a cave—Underground rivers—Exceptional courtesy—GoÎtre—Breeding ground of the YÜn-nan pony—Trade route to Tonquin—Marching knee-deep in mud and water—Poverty of inhabitants—Queen’s Birthday dinner in a back yard—Chinese inquisitiveness—The Sung-ming Lake—A local escort—A glorious view—YÜn-nan Fu. | 35 |
| Chapter IV. |
| THROUGH NORTH-EASTERN YÜN-NAN TO THE YANG-TSZE. |
| The city of YÜn-nan Fu—P’u-Êrh tea—Opium-smoking, chair-bearers, and personal care—Exposure of robbers’ heads—Chinese school—Rainbow superstition—Entertainment at Tung-ch’uan Fu—A successful ruse—Stopped by a mountain torrent—Lodged in a byre—On the banks of the Niu-lan River—The Chao-t’ung plain and its lakes—Stories of Lolo bloodshed—Down from the plain—Narrow escape of a porter—Back to Ss?-ch’uan—Descent of the Nan-kuang River—Down the Yang-tsze to Ch’ung-k’ing | 54 |
| Chapter V. |
| FROM CH’UNG-K’ING TO THE CAPITAL OF SS?-CH’UAN. |
| Fu-t’ou-kuan—The country and its products—Chinese New Year—Charcoal from bracken—Ramie fibre and grass-cloth—Down a tributary of the T’o—The T’o and its commercial importance—The salt wells of Tzu-liu-ching—Sugar and safflower—The Ch’Êng-tu plain—Beggars—The capital of Ss?-ch’uan | 70 |
| Chapter VI. |
| THROUGH LOLODOM AND THE VALLEY OF CHIEN-CH’ANG. |
| A Tibetan criminal in a cage—The armed ruffians of Chiung Chou—A floating bamboo bridge—Brick tea for Tibet—Fraternizing with Tibetan pilgrims on the summit of the Flying Dragon Pass—Chinese originality—Over the Ta Hsiang Ling Pass—A non-Chinese race—Across the Ta-tu River under Sifan protection—In the country of the Lolos—Lolo language—Sifan language—Asbestos cloth—A dangerous country—Lolo rogues—Over the Hsiao Hsiang Ling Pass—Lolo women—The valley of Chien-ch’ang—Ning-yuan Fu | 88 |
| Chapter VII. |
| THROUGH CAINDU TO CARAJAN. |
| Earthquakes—The reception of foreigners at Ning-yuan—The fertility of the Ning-yuan plain—GoÎtre and the salt supply—Historical hailstorm—A Tibetan caravan—Crossing the Ya-lung River—A riot at Hang-chou—Reception at Yen-yuan and increased protection—Brine wells of Pai-yen-ching—Driven back by mountain barriers—The YÜn-nan frontier—A sight of the Yang-tsze—Results of the Mohammedan rebellion—The Lake of the Black Mist—On the banks of the Golden River—A deserted town—The plague—First glimpse of the snow-capped Tsang-shan—A magnificent view—On the shores of the Erh Hai—Ta-li Fu at last. | 112 |
| Chapter VIII. |
| TA-LI FU TO YÜN-NAN FU. |
| A view from the walls of Ta-li—The Mohammedan rebellion—A dying patriot’s prayer—Tibetan dogs—Amherst pheasants—A visit to the marble quarries—False musk—Min-chia maidens—The Ta-li plain—Playful gusts from the Tsang-shan—Good-bye Ta-li—A folklore hunting ground—The Erh Hai and the Mekong—Trade with Upper Burmah—Canton peddlers—Hsia-kuan, or the “Lower Fortress”—Ruined cities—Wretched roads—Half-starved—The foreigner and the camel—Marked courtesy at Ch’u-hsiung Fu—YÜn-nan salt wells—A sackful of mails—A roadside trial—Across the YÜn-nan lake—Three days in YÜn-nan Fu—Trade with Western China and the introduction of railways. | 131 |
| Chapter IX. |
| THROUGH THE WEST OF KUEI-CHOW TO THE YANG-TSZE. |
| The advantages of scholars en route to Examination—Highroad converted into a reservoir—Quartered in a chimney—Intolerable inquisitiveness—Travellers, beware of T’ang-t’ang!—The YÜn-nan-Kuei-chow border—Lakes and their drainage—Again among the Miao-tz?—The valley of the Ch’i-hsing River—Bark paper—“Heaven’s Bridge” and its mining catastrophe—The copper traffic—Across the Ch’ih-shui River into Ss?-ch’uan—Over the HsÜeh-shan Pass—A child of nature—A refractory roadside deity—Down the Yung-ning River—A narrow escape—Down the Yang-tsze to Ch’ung-k’ing | THREE YEARS IN WESTERN CHINA.
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