The route from Fabyan House to Portland extends through this famous pass, over the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad; and the ride is one of the most delightful trips by rail to be afforded east of the Rocky Mountains, and with the exception of the ascent to the summit of Mount Washington, is the grandest and most impressive. The railway itself is a wonder, overcoming, in its construction, obstacles that might appall the stoutest-hearted engineer. Running here upon a lofty trestle, clinging now to the side of a mountain, winding around the base of some overhanging cliff, again bridging some mountain stream far above its bed, it threads its devious way through the pass, abolishing the fatigue and hardship incident to mountain visiting, and affording a panoramic view of scenery unsurpassed for variety, novelty and grandeur.

The trip through the Notch is made in Observation Cars, which are attached to all trains. These are open at the sides, and provided with revolving arm chairs, thus affording an outlook in all directions, adding materially to the pleasure of the journey. The first five miles accomplished, and we are at

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE,

Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either in going or returning, this will be found a desirable stopping place, as there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of mountain-climbing by “brute force,” it was the starting point of the bridle path to the summit of Mount Washington; but the hardy mountain ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the “iron horse,” no less trusty, but vastly less romantic.

Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a diminutive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it absorbs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in turning the busy wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost in the Atlantic.

Gibbs’ Falls, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former landlord of the house.

Beecher’s Cascade, a half mile distant, may have had some other name, but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism experienced by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth Church, but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly involuntary.

Mount Willard, sometimes called Mount Tom, or Tom Willard, although not of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation from its summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The
view is highly praised by good judges, Anthony Trollope declaring it unequaled in all the classic Rhineland. Standing at the very gate of the Notch, it commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the different mountains which encompass it, together with a splendid prospect to the west and north.

Silver Cascade and the Flume Cascade are two of the attractions of the locality, which leap down the sides of Mount Webster in glorious disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver, gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, singing and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to the sea.

The Willey House, memorable as the scene of the disaster known in history as the “Willey Slide,” is located under the steep acclivity of Mount Willey, which rises some 2,000 feet above the house. Opposite are the frowning cliffs of Mount Webster, with the Saco River flowing near. The story of the fearful calamity is familiar, but its repetition may be of interest to our readers. On the night of August 28, 1826, a terrible storm occurred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey, sending it down the mountain side with a fearful roar, threatening destruction to everything in its path. Mr. Willey, his wife, five children, and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house; and it is supposed that they became frightened and fled from the house to escape the peril, and rushed into the very jaws of death, being overwhelmed in the avalanche, not one escaping to tell the tale. The faithful house-dog, however, appeared at Conway, and endeavored to give intelligence of what had happened by all the resources of his power of communication. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but three of the children found permanent burial in the debris. The saddest feature of the calamity is the fact that had they remained in the house no harm would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back of the house divided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving the building untouched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the track of the avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth of white birches.

Avalanche Brook, so called from being regarded as the cause of the disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the Sylvan Glade Cataract, and higher up, another called Sparkling Cascade.

Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train are pointed out by the conductor and trainmen, and an occasional halt is made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance. If time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations, and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege or not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition desired and longed for.

Below Willey Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse, and the scenery becomes less wild and romantic, but none the less beautiful with the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a fine specimen of engineering skill, and is crossed by the train, giving the courageous passengers a chance to peer into the deep gulf which it spans, and the timid ones occasion to “hold their breath” at the thought of a possible tumble, should “anything happen.” The bridge, however, gives no occasion for fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not ponderous in appearance.

A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous Frankenstein Trestle, an iron structure five hundred feet long and eighty feet high. Near this are the Giant’s Stairs, Mount Resolution and Mount Crawford, the latter nearly opposite Bemis Station.
Near here is the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel Crawford, the pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named, “kept tavern” for many years, and told stories and legends of the mountains to his guests, and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts of the shy trout, or to mountain summits, by paths long forgotten. His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount Washington, in 1821.

Nancy’s Brook is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad incident involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover who fled on the eve of the appointed wedding day, pursued by the poor girl, who perished from exposure, and was found in the snow at the foot of a tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name her mother gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event without involving the family name.

Sawyer’s River is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the eastward, and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as Sawyer’s Rock commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the accomplishment of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a horse through the Notch, for which feat, as an evidence of the existence of the pass, Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received from Governor Wentworth a grant of land known as Nash & Sawyer’s Location. The last obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down over it by means of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his rum bottle against it, which sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears.

At Glen Station, connection is made with the stage line for the Glen House up the valley of Ellis River and through Pinkham Notch. Should the traveler feel disposed to make this trip, he will find much to reward him in the way of picturesque scenery, pleasant drives, etc. At a short distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a fine waterfall, known as Goodrich Falls may be seen. Passing the little village of “Jackson City,” the road soon enters the pass known as Pinkham Notch, named from a family of early settlers, who constructed the Notch road.

Glen-Ellis Fall may be reached by a path diverging from the stage road. The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet high. From its configuration it was formerly called “Pitcher Fall,” but the more poetic but less descriptive title seems to cling to it.

THE GLEN HOUSE,

Previously mentioned as a fine hostelry, is the terminus of the stage line. Here you will meet guests who have come by stage from Gorham, eight miles distant, on the Grand Trunk Railway, or from the summit of Mount Washington, by the carriage road already described. This location is more than sixteen hundred feet above sea-level, and the clear, bracing atmosphere, the magnificent scenery, and the delightful drives in several directions, together with the excellent manner in which the hotel is kept, are sufficient to account for its popularity and success. In the matter of stage-line management, it probably has no superior in the world, that which conveys the passengers up the carriage road to the summit of Mount Washington being notably superior in point of equipment, and the well-known skill of its drivers.

Excursions may be made from here to the Carter Notch, Osgood’s Cascades, Summit of Mount Madison, Garnet Pools, Emerald Pool, Thompson’s Falls, Glen-Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman’s Ravine, and many other places of more than ordinary interest.

But again taking up our line of travel at Glen Station, the train soon emerges upon the beautiful Conway Intervales, Intervale Station being the next stopping place. The Intervale House, near by, is a pleasant abode for those who choose to tarry. A short distance beyond is North Conway, a village of multitudinous attractions, and with a popularity as a summer resort that is surprising to the casual visitor, who, although seeing much to admire, fails to comprehend the peculiar combinations which bring people year after year to spend their summers in the vicinity. Superficially, the most attractive objects conspicuously visible are the hotels. The spacious Kiarsarge House seems a veritable paradise for the traveler, and its tables are unexcelled. The views from its verandahs are superior, comprising the mountain ranges, the famous Pequaket or Kiarsarge Mountain, and the lovely Intervales, upon which the village is situated. The mountain from which the hotel receives its name is about three miles from the village, and the ascent may be made in the saddle or on foot. The altitude is 3,367 feet, and the view from the summit comprises the entire White Mountain Range, together with Mote Mountain, Rattlesnake Ridge, Sebago Lake with other bodies of water of less magnitude, and a stretch of landscape in every direction most pleasing to the eye, less grand and rugged, to be sure, than that we have been describing, but on that account more restful to the senses.

The other attractions at North Conway consist of Artist’s Falls, Echo Lake, the Cathedral and Ledges, Diana’s Baths, the Devil’s Den, and a host of lovely drives in various directions, with sylvan paths for pedestrianism ad libitum.

Conway Center, five miles southeast of North Conway, is the next station, and has many charms as a summer resort. Mount Chocorua, with a sharp pinnacle, towering up 3,540 feet above sea-level, is reached from here to good advantage, as is also Walker Pond, a short distance south of the town.

We are now in the “smiling valley” of the Saco River, in the midst of cultivated farms and peaceful villages, in striking contrast with the scenery just left behind. Crossing the boundary line between New Hampshire and Maine, our next station is Fryeburg, which some poetic writer has called the “Queen of the Saco Valley.” It is indeed a lovely town, embowered in deep foliage, and affording the visitor most delightful drives. Jockey Cap, a huge granite pile, is near the village; and close by is Lovewell’s Pond, the scene of an Indian battle in 1725. Mount Pleasant is only seven miles distant, and has upon its summit a fine hotel.

Passing in quick succession the stations of Brownfield, Hiram, the three Baldwins, and Steep Falls, we reach

SEBAGO LAKE,

Seventeen miles from Portland, and forty-three from North Conway. For a short distance before reaching the lake, the run is devoid of interest and exceedingly tame; but as the road skirts the shores of this beautiful sheet of water, and its broad expanse stretches away in the distance, bounded by wooded shores and sandy beaches, the change is magical, and the contrast a most pleasing one. Sebago itself is twelve miles long and nine miles wide, and is connected with Long Pond by means of Songo River and the “Bay of Naples,” formerly “Brandy Pond,”—before the days of the “Maine law.” The entire chain of lakes, river and bay affords a steamboat ride of sixty-eight miles in the round trip. Bridgton, one of the steamer-landings on Long Pond, is the birth-place of the genial humorist “Artemus Ward.” From Portland, a pleasant and popular trip consists of a ride to Sebago by the
morning train, a trip over the lake to Bridgton, returning in time for the evening train to Portland.

And thither, in the continuation of our excursion, we too must go. Only seventeen miles more of our long and delightful journey “from Chicago to the Sea” remain to be traversed. Almost regretfully we linger over the few last leagues of the trip, but remembering that either way from Portland our excursion may be lengthened indefinitely, we resume our seats in the train, and in fifty minutes are in

THE METROPOLIS OF MAINE.

Portland is pleasantly situated on a narrow peninsula projecting from the west shore of Casco Bay. This peninsula is about three miles in length from east to west, with considerable elevations at each end, giving the city a beautiful appearance as approached from the sea. Its harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, being deep and capacious, and protected by land on all sides. The city is beautifully laid out, its public buildings are fine, and many of its private residences elegant.

The commercial and business interests of the city are extensive and important, the value of the shipping owned in the district being very great, and its manufactures employing a large amount of capital. The railroads centering here are the Portland & Ogdensburg, Portland & Rochester, Boston & Maine, Eastern, Maine Central, and Grand Trunk.

The leading hotels of Portland are the Falmouth, United States, Preble, City, Kirkland, and Merchants.

The climate of Portland is remarkably salubrious, the city being peculiarly exempt from epidemics, or climatic diseases of any kind. The source of water supply (Sebago Lake), and the excellent facilities for drainage, undoubtedly contribute much to the healthfulness of the locality. These circumstances, together with the proximity of beaches and other resorts, render Portland a desirable place for summer sojourning, a fact of which no little advantage is taken in the season of travel. The steamship lines running from Portland to eastern ports along the coast of Maine and the maritime provinces, afford the tourist opportunities to extend his trip “away down East,” as far as time and inclination will permit. One resort of special interest deserves mention while this subject is under consideration, on account of its remarkable attractiveness, and its increasing popularity.

MOUNT DESERT ISLAND,

One hundred and ten miles northeast from Portland, is reached by the Portland, Bangor and Machias Steamboat Line, whose boats make connection with the trains from Boston and the White Mountains. They are staunch and seaworthy, and finely equipped; and the trip along the shore, past the thrifty villages, and among the picturesque scenery, is full of delights.

The island of Mount Desert lies quite near the mainland, with which communication is had by means of a bridge which crosses at Trenton. In shape, the island is quite irregular, and is about eighteen miles long by twelve wide. It is nearly divided in two by Somes Sound, and its shores on all sides are indented by picturesque bays and inlets. The greater part of its surface is covered with mountain peaks, some thirteen in number, the highest, Mt. Green, rising fully two thousand feet above the sea. High up among these peaks are several beautiful lakes, which, with the streams that flow from them, abound in trout.

The first landing point, approaching from Portland, is Southwest Harbor. Here are several excellent hotels, and the scenery in the vicinity, and accessible by pleasant carriage drives, is beautiful and picturesque. Green Mountain is reached from this point to good advantage by the westerly slope, a carriage road leading to the summit, where a hotel is located.

Bar Harbor, fifteen miles beyond Southwest Harbor, is even more picturesque and romantic in its location than the latter. The scenery along the coast is bold and impressive, stupendous cliffs rising abruptly to the height of several hundred feet. Bar Harbor is plentifully supplied with hotels, and their facilities are often utilized by the throngs of artists and pleasure-seekers who make summer pilgrimages in search of the beautiful, the art galleries and studios of the country testifying to the success of the former in transferring to canvas the gems of scenery which have formed the basis of so many studies and afforded so much delight.

In addition to the many “down-east” trips that may be made from Portland, its nearness to some of the fine beaches of the Atlantic coast is another of its attractions as an objective point for the tourist. Two great railway lines connect Portland with Boston, and one or both of them reach all the principal intervening seaside resorts.

One of the most noted of these is

OLD ORCHARD BEACH.

This celebrated seaside camp-ground,—for as a place for temperance and religious camp-meetings it is best known,—is reached by the Boston & Maine Railroad, extensively advertised by its managers as the “shore route” between Boston and Portland. And it may not be amiss to say, in this connection, that it is really one of the finest equipped and best managed railroads in the country. Its general superintendent, Mr. J. T. Furber, is one of the successful railroad managers of New England, a tireless worker, looking after every detail of the road and its operation, with a degree of energy and “push” that marks the successful business man wherever you meet him in Yankeedom.

Old Orchard not only has a vast expanse of beautiful beach, but possesses the additional charm of woodland parks and groves, hundreds of acres in extent, stretching away from the shore, enclosing cool retreats and shady paths, where the forest has been left almost in its primeval state. This happy combination of “woods and seashore” in one locality, affording a pleasing variety and gratifying the tastes of all, is one secret of the great popularity of this resort. The splendid hotel, so conspicuous in the background of our illustration, is kept in a style to please the most fastidious, it being the leading hotel of this vicinity. The less pretentious house in the foreground is a great favorite with many visitors, not only for its home-like air, but for the beautiful views to be had from its verandahs and the charming walks
and drives in the vicinity. Its patrons speak of it in terms of the highest commendation.

Wells Beach and Kennebunkport are also reached by the Boston & Maine Railroad, and are among the long list of popular resorts on the eastern coast. The latter has an elegant hotel, the “Ocean Bluff,” which commands a beautiful view of ocean and landscape combined.

At Dover, on the main line to Boston, connection is made with the Winnipesaukee division to Alton Bay, a celebrated summer and camp-ground resort, at the head of the bay, which is an arm of the beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee, extending in a southerly direction. The steamer Mount Washington makes frequent trips from this point to Wolfboro and Center Harbor, from either of which places connection is made for the Weirs, on the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, by steamer “Lady of the Lake.”

The Eastern Railroad, the other through line between Portland and Boston, reaches several of the beaches already mentioned, and is the direct route to Hampton and Rye Beaches, Boar’s Head, and and Revere Beach, the latter sustaining the same relation to Boston as does Coney Island to New York.

The Isles of Shoals, nine miles off Portsmouth harbor, are also reached by the Eastern Railroad to Portsmouth, thence by steamer to Appledore and Star Islands, where two palace hotels, the Appledore, on the island of the same name, and the Oceanic on Star Island, are kept in regal style by Laighton Brothers & Co. The group comprises nine islands, the largest of which is Appledore. It is also the best known, having been for many years the favorite summer home of many of the prominent literary people of New England. It is the residence of Mrs. Celia (Laighton) Thaxter, whose pleasing poems have gratified so many readers; and her childhood was spent in this lovely spot, the very air of which is full of poetic inspiration.

White Island is the location of a light-house which the readers of the Atlantic Monthly will remember as the scene of many of the pleasing incidents in Mrs. Thaxter’s “Child Life at the Isles of Shoals.”

IN RETURNING FROM THE SEA,

The excursionist may traverse again the route through the mountains,—and some portions of it are well worthy of a second visit, or by a different route may reach the St. Lawrence River, and find new objects and scenes to claim his attention. Should the latter be his choice, he may take the train of the Concord & Portsmouth Railroad, at Portsmouth, and go via Manchester, Concord, White River Junction and St. Albans to Ogdensburg or Montreal, thence homeward by the St. Lawrence River, or the rail route, as preferred.

Many, however, will wish to see Boston or New York; and a pleasant trip, comprising a visit to these two cities, may be made by boat or rail from Portland to Boston, thence by Long Island Sound to New York. The Sound Steamer Lines are four in number, all of them having an initial stage by rail to some point on the Sound where connection is made with the boats.

The Fall River Line comprises a trip by rail from Boston to Fall River, forty-nine miles, there transferring to one of the floating palaces, the “Bristol,” the “Providence,” or the new and elegant “Pilgrim,” the latter being conceded to be the finest boat on the Sound. J. R. Kendrick, Esq., is the general manager of this line, with headquarters at Boston, and Geo. L. Connor is the general passenger agent, located in New York.

The Stonington Line has for its inception the rail route to Stonington, Connecticut, via Providence, where connection is made with the elegant steamers, “Massachusetts” and “Rhode Island.” This route has more of rail and less of water than the preceding, and avoids the “outside” passage around Point Judith, a consideration that has its weight with the timid and sensitive.

The Providence Line is under the same management as that of the foregoing, and comprises a rail trip to Providence, and boat from there to New York, the steamers “Stonington” and “Narragansett” being employed on this line.

The Norwich Line has for its beginning a rail trip to New London, thence by steamer to New York.

The start from Boston is in the early evening, the arrival at the various boat landings being in ample season for “bed-time,” and the trip through the Sound is a night ride, arriving in New York in season to connect with morning trains if desired. The passengers who arise in moderately good season will enjoy the latter portion of the ride, as the boat enters the famous passage known as “Hell Gate,” passes down the East River in view of the islands on which are located the various reformatory, penal, and charitable institutions of New York City, continuing between the cities of New York and Brooklyn, under the famous suspension bridge, and around the Battery and Castle Garden into the North River. The shipping in the harbor, the sprightly tugs steaming here and there, the ferry boats plying between Long Island and New York, and the ceaseless activity and bustle of all things animate, all combine to give to the scene an air of life and vigor so characteristic of all that pertains to the great metropolis of America.

The sights and scenes of the city itself are so numerous and varied that the pen falters at the thought of even attempting to mention them. If the reader has a desire to “do” the city in a systematic and thorough manner, he should secure the company of some one familiar with its customs and its places of interest, or consult the pages of some city guide book.

FROM NEW YORK TO THE WEST.

The return to the West from New York City may be made by several different routes, at the option of the tourist. The New York Central and Hudson River Railroad affords a pleasant ride up the Hudson River, among its beautiful scenery to Albany, thence across the State to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. The new West Shore line, by a nearly parallel route, traverses the other side of the Hudson, and will soon be completed for through travel. The trip up the Hudson by boat is also a favorite in the summer season, as affording the finest views of the points of interest that have given to this river the title of the “Rhine of America.”

For picturesque scenery, no route can be regarded as equal to the New York, Lake Erie and Western, familiarly known as the “Erie Line.” Crossing the ferry to Jersey City, the passenger by this line finds the trains of this road awaiting at the station, with through cars attached for Buffalo, Rochester, and the principal Western points. Leaving Jersey City by the morning train, the tourist will find that the day’s ride among the picturesque mountain, river, and lake scenery all along the line will be one of great interest and enjoyment. The courtesy and urbanity of the trainmen and conductors are especially noticeable, and the eating houses, at which ample time is given for meals, are among the best railroad restaurants it is the privilege of the traveler to visit.

Connection is made at Buffalo with the Canada Southern division of the Michigan Central, from which point the return may be made via Detroit, to the starting point of the journey.

BOSTON TO THE WEST.

The return trip from Boston, omitting the visit to New York, may be made very direct, should the tourist so elect. The short line from Boston, and on many accounts a very pleasant one, is via the celebrated Hoosac Tunnel, comprising the Fitchburg Railroad to North Adams, and the Troy & Boston Railroad to Troy, thence via the New York Central to Suspension Bridge or Buffalo. This route presents the advantages of through sleeping coaches from Boston to Chicago, without change, a most desirable feature for families or for ladies traveling alone.

The line takes its name from the wonderful tunnel through Hoosac Mountain, which opens a roadway for the locomotive directly across the State of Massachusetts. This immense engineering enterprise was begun in 1862, on the supposition that the internal structure of the mountain would be found of a character to admit of easy excavation. The undertaking proved, however, that its projectors had been misled by the geologists, and solid rock was the substance to be removed for the greater part of nearly five miles. At an immense cost, the excavation was carried on, and in 1875 was open for the passage of trains, and later was perfected by arches of masonry where strengthening was necessary.

The equipment of the “Tunnel Line” is complete and in all respects first class. The starting point in Boston is from the depot of the Fitchburg Railroad, of which John Adams, Esq., is the genial and popular superintendent. The Western office of the line is in Chicago, at 135 Randolph Street, in charge of C. E. Lambert, Esq., the general Western passenger agent.

The return from Boston may also be made by way of Springfield and Albany, by the Boston & Albany Railroad, thence by the New York Central to Buffalo or Suspension Bridge.

And now, having taken the reader, in imagination, from his home in the West to the Atlantic seaboard, through some of the most delightful scenery on the American Continent, and indicated a variety of routes by which he may return, with a few closing words the duty of the writer will be done. Possibly no one traveler or party will traverse all the routes described in this work. In some cases we have indicated that choice may be made of several methods of reaching a given point, and the taste or preference of the tourist, or the convenience of a party traveling in company, will often decide the route. We have endeavored to give fair and impartial description of the attractions offered by the various lines of travel,—often too painfully conscious of the inadequacy of words to do justice to the subject considered,—and leave the reader to choose for himself a route from among the variety set forth.

Before closing, we will add that a large variety of excursion tickets will be found on sale at the principal ticket offices of the Michigan Central Railroad, from which a selection can be made in accordance with your taste or preferences. If the perusal of this work has assisted in deciding your route, you will probably be able to secure a ticket through to the sea to accommodate your wishes. By a very convenient arrangement, your choice of a portion of the route may be left until arriving at the St. Lawrence River, when the purser of the steamer will exchange your ticket, giving opportunity to select from a variety of excursions, with added side trips to various points of interest.

And now, with a consciousness of its many imperfections, we bring this work to a close, and take a regretful leave of the reader, with the hope that the pages of the book may prove serviceable in making enjoyable the journey of many a tourist

From Chicago to the Sea.

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