INDEX

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A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y, Z

AbbÂsid SÂmarrÂ, 242
Abu ’Ati?, ruins of, 66, 68, 110
Abu Bekr, tekÎyeh of, 10, 15
Abu DulÂf, minaret of, 211, 213, 214;
mosque of, 243 and note1-46, 246 note1
Abu ?anÎfah, shrine of, 188
Abu JÎr, ruins of, 123, 124, 125, 127
Abu KemÂl, village of, 77, 81-82, 84, 85
Abu’l ?assan, tell of, 81, 111, 112-13
Abu Sa’Îd, 63, 65, 101, 110, 111
Abu Tu?ah, 61
Aburas (KhÂbÛr), the, 109
Adana, massacre of Christians at, 251, 252, 302-3, 331-32, 349
’A?Êm, the, 204 and note5
Aeipolis (HÎt), 110, 111, 114
AfÂ?leh, the, 53
Ager Romanorum, the, 307
’Ain el ’A?fÛrÎyeh, 124
’Ain el ’AwÂsil, 124
’Ain et Tamr, oasis of, 135, 139;
history, 156, 157
’Ain NakhÎleh, village of, 26
’Ain TÂb, 32
’Ain Tell, Spring of, 9
’Ain Za’zu’, spring at, 118-19, 122
’Aiwir, ruin of, 118
AjmÎyeh, 89, 90
Akcheh DÂgh, the, 339 and note1
Akhaya Kala, island of, 99
Ala Klisse, decoration in, 155
AlbistÂn, 342
Aleppo, saddlers of, 1-3;
politics and religion, 3-8;
municipal income, 8-9;
works of Seif ed Dauleh, 9, 11-12;
Christians of, 9-10;
antiquity of, 10-11;
the JÂmi’ el ?elÂwÎyeh, 11;
mosque of Firdaus, 12;
the JÂmi’ esh ShaibÎyeh, 12;
shrine of ?ussein, 12-13;
architecture, 13-14;
the BÎmÂristÂn El Malik e? ?Âhir, 14;
the citadel, 15-16;
the road to BaghdÂd, 126;
gateway of the citadel, the serpent motive, 15, 190;
news of massacre, 317;
distances from, 334, 335
Alexandretta, port of, 334, 335
’AlÎ DÂgh, 353
’Al?ÂmÎ, the, 164 note1
Al?Ôsh, 274, 281, 282
Allan, 111, 112
AlÛs, 101
Al’ Uzz (Kiepert), 101
AmadÎyeh, 288
AmÂrah, 184, 194
’Amej, castle of, 86, 121
’Amr, mosque of, Cairo, 56 note2
’Amr?an, 262
’AnÂb, 44, 47
’Ânah, 85, 87, 88, 89, 113;
the road to, 92-93;
the castle and minaret, 94-96;
history, 96-98
Anatho (’Anah), 92, 109, 111, 114
Andaval, village of, 356
AnderÎn, barracks at, 121 note2
Annouca, castle of, 68
Anthemusia, 22
Anti Taurus, 327
Antioch Gate, Aleppo, 11, 15
Antioch on the Orontes, 10
Anu and Adad, temple of, 223
Apamea (Strabo), 204
Arabissus, 339 note1
Ararat, mountain of, 289
Araxes, the (the KhÂbÛr), 73
Arba’, village of, 303 note1
Arba’În, shrine of the, TekrÎt, 217
Arbela, 221, 228
Arca, see Arga
Arga, 338, 339 note1-40
ArgÆus, Mount, 344, 345, 353-54, 355
ArgÆus the Lesser, 356
Arghana, the monastery of the Virgin, 328 and note1
Arghana Ma’den, KhÂn of, 328 note1, 329, 330 note1
Ariarathia, 344 note1
ArÎmeh, village of, 20
Ark of Noah, 291-95
ArnÂs, 317-18
ArslÂn Tepeh, mound of, 336, 337
Artemis, Temple of (Darius), 111
’Ashi?, the, SÂmarrÂ, 235 and note4-39, 242
Asia Minor, tower tombs, 37
Asikha, 111, 112
’AsÎleh, 130, 132
Asshur, mound of, 221, 222;
temple of, 222-24, 229
Assyrian temples, construction, 223
Atargatis, pool of, 21-22
’AtÂ’ut, pitch well at, 106
Atesh Gah of Jur, 246 note2
AwÂnÂ, see WÂneh
AywÂn KisrÂ, the, 181 note3
Azakh, 302-3
Azbuzu, 336
’AzÎzÎyeh, 339 note1, 344 and note1, 345 note2
BÂ’adrÎ, village of, 269-70, 273;
’AlÎ Beg, 273-74;
Sa’Îd Beg, 274, 280;
the summer festival, 280;
underground village near, 299 note1
BÂ’ashikÂ, 265
BÂ Dibbeh, 309
BÂ SebrÎna, village of, 303 and note1-4;
monasteries of, 304-5;
construction in, 315
BÂb, 17, 18 and note3
BÂb el ?adÎd, Aleppo, 15
BÂb el Ma?Âm, Aleppo, 14
BÂb el Wu??ÂnÎ, 191
BÂb e? ?ilism, BaghdÂd, 190
BÂb KinnesrÎn, the, Aleppo, 11
BÂbil, mound of, 168, 173
Babylon, 22, 164;
Palace of Nebuchadnezzar, work of excavation, 168-71;
temple of Ishtar and the Ishtar Gate, 171;
the Via Sacra, 171-72;
temple of Marduk, 172;
the theatre, 172-73;
mound of BÂbil, 173;
construction in, 223
BaghdÂd, 3, 32, 46, 54;
the railway, 34, 356;
the road to, 94, 160, 167;
tomb of the Sitt Zobeideh, 100;
justice in, stories of Rejef Pasha, 175-77;
story of the cannon, 183, 192-93;
entry by the ?illeh road, 184;
the British Residency, 184;
the irrigation system, 185;
the new rÉgime in, 185-87;
the Jews and military service, 187;
Man?Ûr’s Round City, 187 and note1-88;
the KÂ?imein, 188-90, 198;
tomb of Sheikh Ma’rÛf, 189-90;
BÂb e? ?ilism, 190-91;
traces of the ancient city, 191;
the BÂb el Wu??ÂnÎ, 191;
Mustan?irÎyeh College, 191-92;
the KhÂ?akÎ JÂmi’, 192;
KhÂn Orthma, 192;
the arsenal, 193-94;
mosque and tomb of ’Abdu’l ?Âdir, 214;
shrine of the ImÂm DÛr, 214-16
DÛr ’ArabÂyÂ, 212 note1
Dura, 111, 112, 113
Dura (Isidoris), 113
Dura Nicanoris, 111
Durnakh, 289
Edessa [now Urfah], 23, 24
Egypt, English rule in, 196
Ekrek, 339 note1, 345
El ’AwÂ?im, province of, 25
El Khi?r, 263 note1
El Malik e? ?Âher, Medresseh of, 12
Elemenjik, the situation in, 338
Emergal, 345 note
EmÎr Chiflik, 356
Ephesus, council of, 255 note1
Ephesus, caravan road to, 335 note1
Er RadÂf (El ’AsÎleh), 131
EreglÎ,

353, 355, 357
E? ?Âli?În, mosque of, 13
EskÎ BaghdÂd, 212 note4, 213
EskÎ SerÛj, 22 note2
Eskishehr, 338 note1
Eugenius, St., monastery of, 310-12
Euphrates, passages of the, 22-23, 24 note2, 27-28, 31-32, 47;
waters of the, 35;
the JezÎreh and the ShÂmÎyeh, 60-61, 66, 77;
Julian’s march, 62;
the river at WÂdÎ MÂli?, 67;
below Deir, 73-74;
inundations, 79-82;
tribes on the, 81;
islands, 85-86;
the piers of the bridge at ’Ânah, 97;
’Ânah to HÎt, 98;
landscape at ’Ânah, 101;
the road from Buseirah to ’Ânah, 108-9;
the division above Museiyib, 164 and note1;
bridge of boats near Kerbela, 167;
the Murad Su, 335;
tributaries, 342-43
Europus, 24 note2, 33, 111
Evler, village of, 296
Father of Asphalt,” the, 125
Festhaus, the, at ?al’at Shergat, 225
Fet?ah gorge, the, 220
F?emeh, village of, 99, 100
Finik, 296 note1, 301;
castles, 297-98;
rock dwellings, 298-99
Firdaus, mosque of, Aleppo, 12-13
FirÛzÂbÂd, Sassanian Palace of, 153, 156
Galabatha, 110, 111
Ga’rah, 118
GarÂrah, 183
Ga’rat ej JemÂl, 123, 124
GelÎyeh, village of, 306, 308
Gerik, village of, 290
Geurmuk, 290
Ghazil, the, 293 note1
GhirÂn (Kiepert), 52
Giddan, 111, 113
Gilead, the road to Moab, 303
GÖk Su, the, 348
GÖljik, 329, 330 note1
Gordian, tomb of, 113
GÖrÜn, 339 note1, 342 note1;
khÂn of, 342
GrÊ Pahn (Tell ’ArÎ?), 283
Great ZÂb, the, 204 note3, 228
GÜnesh, 343
Gurgurri Gate, ?al’at Shergat, 224
?adÎthah, ruins of, 99, 100 and note1, 111, 114, 190
?aleb (Aleppo), 10-11
?alebÎyeh, Castle of, 67
?allÂweh, ruins at, 47
?ammÂm ’AlÎ, sulphur springs of, 230
?andak, 302 note3
?araglah, ruin of, 53-54, 54 note1
?arnik, 333 note1
?arrÂn (CarrhÆ), 24 note2
?asanah, village of, carved relief, 287 note2, 290-91, 294
?asanÎyeh, see also ZÂkhÔ, 287 notes1-2, 293 note1
?assan DÂgh, 356
?asua, the khÂn of, 175
?Âtim ?Âi, Castle of, 306-8
Hatra, Parthian Palace at, 31;
work of Dr. Andrae, 222
?aurÂn, the, tower tombs, 37
Havanda, mausoleum, 356
?eizil SÛ, the, 289, 293 note1
?ejÂz, 344
HeshtÂn, 293
Hierapolis, see also Manbij, 10, 16, 20, 24;
the pool of Atargatis, 21;
mosque of ’Abdu’l ?amÎd, 21-22;
history, 23, 24;
shrine of Sheikh ’A?il, 25-26
?illeh, 164, 167
HindÎyeh swamp, the, 164-65;
canal, 164 note1;
the Nahr HindÎyeh, 164 and note1
?Îrah castle, 141, 142 and note1, 160
?i?n Keif, rock-hewn chambers, 299 note1
HÎt, the town of, 102, 104, 111, 114, 201 note1;
pitch wells, 104-6;
the minaret, 108;
distances from, 110;
women of, 116-17
?Öjneh, village of, 78
?ussein, mosque of, Aleppo, 12-13;
tomb of, Kerbela, 160
?uwei?ilÂt, ruins of, 239, 242
Ibn ?anbal, tomb of, 188
Ibn ?ÛlÛn, mosque of, Cairo, 58
Idicara (Ptolemy), 102 note1, 111
ImÂm DÛr, shrine of, 214-16
ImÂm Ya?yÂ, tomb of, 259, 260
Irmez, 303 note1
IrzÎ, 111, 113, 114;
ruins of, 49 note2, 83-84;
bluff of, 82, 85
Is, 104 note1, 111
Ishtar Gate, Babylon, 171
Island, 111, 114
Ispileh, 353 note2
IvrÎz, gorge of, 357
Iz Oglu, mound of, 333 note1, 335 and note2
Izala, Mount, 301 and note1;
monastery of MÂr Augen, 310-17
Izannesopolis, 102 note1, 110, 111, 114
JabarÎyeh, ruins of, 88, 111, 113
Ja’deh, hamlet of, 30
JÂmi’el ?elÂwÎyeh, the, Aleppo, 11
JÂmi’el ?a?r, BaghdÂd, 191 note2
JÂmi’el Ma?ÂmÂt, Aleppo, 14
JÂmi’ esh ShaibÎyeh, the, Aleppo, 12
Jebel ’Abdu’l ’Aziz, 62
Jebel Al?Ôsh, 282-83
Jebel Bei?Â, 62
Jebel DehÛk, 282-83
Jebel el Abya?, ruined fortress, 285
Jebel el ?amrÎn, the, 220-21, 243
Jebel el ?a??, 17-18
Jebel ?aurÂn, 131
Jebel JÛdÎ, 289
Jebel Ma?lÛb, 266, 268
Jebel MunÂkhir, 61, 62
Jebel Munkhar esh Shar?Î, 61
Jebel MuzÂhir, the, 119
Jebel Sim’un, 273, 280
Jebel SinjÂr, the, 87, 275, 280, 301, 308
Jebel ’U?ala, 61
Jedeideh, 63
JelÎb esh Sheikh, 124
Jemmah, mounds of, 79, 111, 112
JerÂblus, 24 note2, 32, 33 and note1
JernÎyeh, hill of, 43
Jerusalem, tomb of Absalom, 37 note5;
construction in, 223
JezarÂn, village of, 270
JezÎreh, the, 295, 296 note1, 297
JezÎret ibn ’Umar, 287 note2, 296-97
Jibbeh, island of, 101
Jisr Manbij, 24 note2
JÔf in Nejd, 144
Jonah, tombs of, 262
JÛdÎ DÂgh, ridge of, 289, 291 note1, 293
JÛdÎ, Mount, the Cloister of the Ark, 291-95
?Â’at ed Deleim, 85
Kadi Keui, 328 note1
?ÂdisÎ yah, battlefield of, 160, 201 note1, 204 note5, 207 note1;
ruins of, 207-8, 210
Kahf ’AlÎ, 202
Kahf ez Za?? [Sheikh ?amri], 51-52
?Âim, town of, 208, 210;
tower of, 239
?aindÎjeh, 343 note1
?ai?arÎyeh, 334, 354, 355
?al’ah DÂgh, plateau of the, 340
?al’at Abu RayÂsh, 219 note1
?al’at BulÂk (RetÂjah), 88, 111, 113-14
?al’at ej JedÎd, pass at, 308-309, 309 note1
?al’at en Nejm, 23, 24 note2, 39
?al’at ?Âtim ?Âi, 309 and note1
?al’at Ja’bar, 44, 48, 51;
towers of, 49 and notes-50
?al’at KhubbÂz, 107
?al’at LÛlÛ, MÔ?ul, 260
?al’at RÂfi?ah, 88
?al’at ShergÂt, work of Dr. Andrae, 221, 222;
temple of Asshur, 222-23;
the fortifications, 224-26
Kalender KhÂn, 329
Kalender KoprÜsi, 328 note1
Kalka, 308
?ara Bel, the, 347, 350 note1
?ara DÂgh, 357-58
?ara KazÂk, mound of, at Tell A?mar, 30
?ara KhÂn Chai, 327 note1
?arÂbileh, island of, 92, 111, 114
?ara?i?Âr, 355
?aramÂn, 357, 358
?arkh, mound of, 212 note1, 323
?ara?Ôsh, inscriptions, 264 note1;
the seven churches, 264;
MÂr Shim’Ûn, 264-65;
churches of, 279
?ar?ÎsÎy (Circesium), 68, 74
Karnak, inscriptions at, 104 note1
Kars, 63
KÂs i Fir’aun at S 5-h@52495-h-16.htm.html#page_335" class="pginternal">335 and note1-36;
Old Mala?iyeh, 337-38
Malthai, the Assyrian reliefs, 283-84
MalwÎyeh, the, SÂmarrÂ, 209 and note1, 210
Ma’mÛreh, asphalt beds and minaret, 106;
ruins, 127
Ma’mÛret el ’AzÎz, vilayet of, 330
Manbij [Hierapolis], 18, 19;


ancient churches, 21, 22 note1;
history, 24-25
MangÂbeh, 26
MangÛb, 227
Man?Ûr, founder of Kafi?ah, 54;
Round City of, 187 and note1-88;
mosque of, BaghdÂd, 235 note2
MÂr AhudÂnÎ, Church of, 257
MÂr Augen, monastery of, 302 note1, 310-12
MÂr ’AzÎzÎyeh at Kefr Zeh, 315, 317-18
MÂr Barsauma, 316 note2
MÂr BehnÂm, 262 and note1-63, 263 note2, 268 and note1
MÂr Cosmo, 324 note1
MÂr Dodo, 304-5
MÂr Gabriel of KartmÎn, 262 note1, 314-16
MÂr Girjis, 258
MÂr HÔbel, 316 note2
MÂr IbrahÎm, 316 note2
MÂr Kyriakos at ArnÂs, 317-18
MÂr Mattai, monastery of, 266;
story of MÂr Mattai, 267-68
MÂr Melko, 313 and note1-14
MÂr Musa el Habashi, 316 note2
MÂr Philoxenos, 316-17
MÂr Shim’Ûn, BÂ SebrÎna, 303-4
MÂr Shim’Ûn, 218, 259;
?ara?Ôsh, 264-65
MÂr Shim’Ûn, MidyÂd, 316 note2
MÂr Sobo, 319
MÂr TÛmÂ, 258 and note1-59, 259 note1, 260, 263 note2
MÂr YÂ’?Ûb, Church of, ?alÂ?, 316-19
MÂr YÂ’?Ûb, monastery of, 272, 283
Marde, 301
MardÎn, 218, 301, 311, 353 and note2
Mascas, the, 82
Ma’shÛk, the, see ’Ashi?, the
Masius Mount, 301
Masnik, 335 note2
Mas’ÛdÎyeh, 41
Maxentius, basilica of, 180
MazÂr of Sultan ’Abdullah, 49 note1
MazÂr of Sultan SelÎm, 49 note1
MdawwÎ, mounds, 202
Mecca, 158;
the well Zemzem, 277
MedÂin, 181 note2
Medina, 158
Mei?a, 62
MelekjÂn, 333 note1
Melitene, 337 and note1
Merrhan, 111, 113
Meskeneh, 24 note2;
the ferry, 47
Mesopotamia, antiquities of, 11;
fortified khÂns, 121 and note2-22;
history, 156
Mespila-Nineveh, 287 note2
MezÎzakh, 316 note1
Mezreh, 330 and note2, 331, note1
Middo, 303 note1
MidyÂd, MÂr Philoxenos, 316-17
MidyÂd, ?Âimma?Âm of the, 321
MÔ?ul, 70, 185, 206, 230-31, 265, 302;
the modern bridge, 237;
the situation in, 247-49;
the affair of 1st January 1909, 249-50;
murder of Sheikh Sayyid, 249-50;
the League of Mohammad formed, 250-51;
fall of ’Abdu’l HamÎd, 251-54;
the Church in, 254-57;
Church of MÂr AhudÂnÎ, 257;
first recorded mosque, 259;
tomb of the ImÂm Ya?yÂ, 259, 260;
the ?al’at LÛlÛ, 260;
the SinjÂr Gate, 260;
the Jews of, 260-61, 261 note1;
the high road, 284, 286, 287 note1
Mshatta, Palace of, 152, 153
Mu’a??am, village of, 188
Mudawwarah, ruin of, 48
MÜgdeh, 341 note2
MughÂrah, 30, 35
Mu?ammad ’AlÎ, tomb of, at WÂneh, 203
Mukbil, village of, 271
Mullah ’AlÎ Shehr, 341 note1
Munbayah, mound of, 43-44;
basalt mills, 63
Munga’rah, ?ishl el, 69
Murad Su, the, 335
MurrÂt, ruin of, 135
Museiyib, village of, 164, 166-67
Musheidah, 200;
the khÂn of, 199;
the SenÎyeh, 201-2
Mustan?irÎyeh College, BaghdÂd, 191-92
Mutawakkil, mosque of, SÂmarrÂ, 209;
Palace of, 213
Nabagath on the Aburas, 109, 111, 112
Nahr el ?Âim, the, 206-8
NahrawÂn canal, 213 and note1
NahrwÂn, bridge of, 182
Na?rÎyeh canal, the, 167
NatÂrÎyeh, 90-92
NebÎ ?Âshil, ziyÂrah of, 17
NebÎ YÛnus, mound of, 262
Nebuchadnezzar, Palace of, work of excavation, 168-71
Nejd, 86, 217
Nejef, ruins, 160, 162
Neshabah tower, the, 49 and note1
Nicephorium, 54, 62, 109, 110, 111
Nigdeh, Seljuk mosques, 356
NimrÛd, 224, 227;
mound of, 228-29
Nineveh, ruins of, 261-66;
story of MÂr Mattai, 267
Ninmala, island of, 85
NisÎbÎn, 301
Nisibis, 301
Nu’mÂn ibn Mundhir, the castle of, 141, 142
NÛr ed Din, 262
Nurshak DÂgh, 342
Obbanes, 24 note2
Olabus, 100 note1, 111, 114
Old Meskeneh, 47
Opis, 200 and note1, 204 and note5
Ordasu, 336
Osdara, 339 note1
OsherÎyeh, 27
OsmÂndedelÎ, 339 note1, 342 and note1, 343 and note1
Osrhoene, 23
Ozan, 339 note1;
tomb at, 340-41, 341 note1
Palanga, 341 note1
Palmyra, tower tombs of, 37
Parenk, 343 note1
Parux Malkha, 102 note1
PehlevÎ, 305 note1
Persia, justice in, 163-64
Persian Gulf, gun-running, 285
Phaliga, 109, 110, 111, 112
Phaliscum, 111, 112
Phathusa, 114
Phoenice-Finik, 296 note1, 299
Physcus, the (Xenophon), 204 note5
Polat Ushagha, 341 note1
PÜnoz, KhÂn of, 330 note1
RabÂ?, village of, 85
RabbÂn Hormuzd, monastery of, 255, 281-82
RÂfi?ah, history of, 54-55, 57
Ra?bah, 74
Ra??ÂlÎyeh, oasis of, 134, 138;
water of, 136
Ra??ÂlÎyeh-ShetÂteh road, the, 136
Ra??ah, 41, 46, 53, 65, 68, 111;
the ferry, 47;
history, 54-55, 158;
the modern Ra??ah, 55;
shrines, 56 and note2;
Ra??ah ware, 59-60, 75-76;
distances, 108-10;
the BaghdÂd Gate, 135 note2, 156
RamÂdÎ, 123, 176, 177
RawÂ, 86-87, 90-92, 94, 114
RetÂjah (?al’at BulÂ?), 88
Rhabdium, 307, 309 note1
RisÜr Chai, 297
Round City, BaghdÂd, 187 and note1-88
Rumeileh, 41
SadÎr, 141
Sagr, ruin, 202
Sai?Ûn, the, 342, 348
St. Simeon Stylites, Church of, 11
SajÛr river, the, 23, 31;
the valley, 27
?alÂ?, 314, 316-19
SalakÛn, 303 note1
?Âli?Îyeh, 78, 80, 82
Salonica, 4, 6, 227, 359;
the committee, 251;
the accession of Mu?ammad V, 281
Saman, 340
Saman Keui, 338 note1
SÂmarrÂ, the mosque of, 58, 231-35, 243 and note1-46, 246 note1;
ruins, 158, 188 note1;
Mohammadan ware, 204;
the MalwÎyeh, 206, 209 and note1, 210;
the choice of Mu’ta?im, 207 note2, 209-10;
the bazaars, 208;
decline of, 208-9;
the minaret, 211, 235;
Mada?? e? ?abl, 211;
the KÂs i Fir’aun, 235;
the palace of the ’Ashi?, 235 and note4-39, 242;
?lebÎyeh, 237, 239, 242;
ruins of ?uwei?ilÂt, 239, 242;
Beit el KhalÎfah, 240 and note1-42;
the Tell ’AlÎj, 242-43;
SÂmarr ware, 243
Samosata, 33
Sapha, 296 note1the keleks, 206;
the Nahr el ?Âim, 206-7;
the bazaars of SÂmarrÂ, 208;
bridge piers near JezÎret ibn ’Umar, 297;
castles of Finik, 297-99;
crossing at the ?Ûr ’AbdÎn, 300-301;
source, 329
Tikmin, 342
TilbÊs, island of, 98
TÎmÛr, 316
TÎrhÂn district, the, 209
TiyÂna, village of,

79
TiyÂrÎ, peaks of, 293
Tokat, 329
Tokhma Su, the, 339 note1, 340, 341 note2, 342-43
Tolek village, 327 note1
Tomarza, 345
Tomisa-Iz Oglu, 339 note1
Tozeli, 341 note1
Tripoli (African) tower tombs, 37
Tsamandos, 345 and note2
Tuba, 121 note3
Tulkhum, 328 note1
?Ûr ’AbdÎn, 262 note1, 299, 300-302;
absence of streams, 303;
Mar Shim’Ûn, 303-4;
construction in, 304-5;
monasteries of the, 310-17
Turkey, use of the vote in, 19-20
Tutli Keui, 333 note1
Uch Keui, 327 note1
’Uglet ?aurÂn, 101-2
’UkÂ?, 129
’UkbarÂ, 201 note1;
mounds of, 202 and note1;
position, 203 note1
Ukhei?ir, the journey to, 86, 88, 100, 131, 140, 141, 142;
the BenÎ ?assan, 107;
a first sight of, 140-41;
water supply, 142, 150;
architecture, 143-44, 219;
inhabitants of, 144-45;
Palace of —— plans, 146-47;
architecture, 147-54;
decoration, 154-55;
date of the building, 155-58
Ulu JÂmi’, DiyÂrbekr, 325-26
Ulu JÂmi’, Mala?iyah, 338
Umm Rejeibah, 67, 70, 111, 112
Urfah, 23, 32;
caves at, 40
Useden (Kiepert), 306
Useh Dereh, 306, 308, 309, 310, 313
VÂn, 3, 255
VÂn, Lake, 218, 293
WÂdÎ ’Ain Sifneh, the, 271
WÂdÎ Aswad (Chem Resh), valley of, 270
WÂdÎ BurdÂn, 131-32
WÂdÎ el ’AsibÎyeh, 133
WÂdÎ FÂ?Îyeh, 101
WÂdÎ ?ajlÂn, the, 101
WÂdÎ ?aurÂn, 118, 131
WÂdÎ Lebai’ah, 131, 141, 142, 150
WÂdÎ MÂli?, 66, 67
WÂdÎ Mu?ammadÎ, 124, 125
WÂdÎ Themail, 129
WÂneh, village of, tomb of Mu?ammad ’AlÎ, 203 and note1
WardÂna, village of, 26
WÂsi?, 159
Weldeh Country, the, 43, 47, 51
WerdÎ, 78, 81-83, 85
WerdÎ-IrzÎ, 113
WerdÎyeh, the, 82
White Palace of Chosroes, 181 and note3
WÎzeh, 132
Ya?y el BarmakÎ, tomb of, 56
YamachlÎ, 353 note2
Yazi Keui, 341, 342
Yeni KhÂn, 355
YezÎdÎ villages, 269
Za’ferÂn, 286
ZÂkhÔ, position, 286-87, 287 note2;
grave of the Dominican Soldini, 287-88
Za’khurÂn, 321-22
ZamantÎ Su, the, 344
Zeitha, 79, 111-13
Zeitha-Jemma, 113
ZelebÎyeh, fortress of, 67-68, 110, 111, 112
Zemzem, the well, at Mecca, 277
Zenobia, fortress of, 68
Zeugma (Birejik), the, 109, 110
ZiyÂrah of Uweis el ?aranÎ, 56

Richard Clay & Sons, Limited, London and Bungay.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] It is dated in the year 545 A.H., i. e. A.D. 1150.

[2] The Persian influence had probably filtered through Egypt, for similar leaf motives are to be found in Cairo, for example in a fine bit of woodwork in the Museum: Herz Bey, Catalogue RaisonnÉ, fig. 24. The prototype must be looked for in the plaster decorations of Ibn ?ÛlÛn.

[3] M. Saladin believes this entrelac to be of Damascene origin. Manuel d’Art Musulman, i. p. 115.

[4] Ed. Reinaud, p. 267. He wrote in A.D. 1321.

[5] Anabasis, Bk. I. ch. iv, 10.

[6] Zur antiken Topographie der Palmyrene, p. 31.

[7] Mr. Hogarth also noticed that BÂb is marked out of its true place: Annual of the British School at Athens, XIV. p. 185.

[8] Plutarch: In Crass.

[9] Sachau saw it: Reise in Syrien und Mesopotamien, p. 148.

[10] Ed. de Goeje, p. 162. He wrote in A.D. 864.

[11] Manbij is the name used in literary Arabic, but it is noticeable that in the colloquial the word approaches more nearly to the earliest form, being pronounced Bumbuj.

[12] EskÎ SerÛj according to Chapot: La frontiÈre de l’Euphrate, p. 306.

[13] Geography, Bk. XVI. ch. i. 27.

[14] Ritter: Erdkunde, Vol. VII. p. 961.

[15] Procopius makes the same observation: De Bell. Per., II. 20.

[16] It is so given in the Antonine Itinerary: Hierapoli—Thilaticomum—Bathnas—Edissa.

[17] Ammianus Marcellinus, Bk. XXIII. ch. ii. 7.

[18] Chapot, op. cit. p. 281.

[19] Chapot believes that the passage was effected at a point north of CÆciliana, which would fit in with Tell A?mar: op. cit. p. 254, note 5.

[20] Mr. Hogarth suggests that the Abbess Ætheria crossed at Tell A?mar on her way to Edessa: loc. cit. p. 183.

[21] Birejik and the Tell A?mar passage (whatever may have been its ancient name) and Thapsacus do not exhaust the number of recorded routes, for Chosroes, in his first expedition against Justinian, crossed at Obbanes, somewhere about the modern Meskeneh, and on his third expedition he built a bridge of boats near Europus, which is perhaps the modern JerÂblus. (Mr. Hogarth doubts the accepted identification of JerÂblus with Europus: Annals of Arch. and Anthrop., Vol. II. p. 169.) During the Mohammedan period other points are mentioned. Ibn KhurdÂdhbeh, writing in the ninth century, makes the road from Aleppo to Babylon cross at BÂlis, the ancient Barbalissos (ed. de Goeje, p. 74), but I??akhrÎ, a hundred years later, says that BÂlis, though it was once the Syrian port on the Euphrates, had fallen into decay since the days of Seif ed Dauleh, and was little used by merchants (ed. de Goeje, p. 62). In the twelfth century, and perhaps earlier, its place had been taken by ?al’at en Nejm, where NÛr ed DÎn, who died in 1145, built a great fortress, famous during the wars against the Crusaders. The bridge there was called Jisr Manbij (“the bridge of Manbij”), but it cannot have been constructed by NÛr ed DÎn, for Ibn Jubeir, writing about the year 1185 a description of his journey from ?arrÂn (Carrhae) to Manbij, says that he “crossed the river in small boats, lying ready, to a new castle called ?al’at en Nejm” (Gibb Memorial edition, p. 248). In YÂ?Ût’s day (circa 1225) the caravans from ?arrÂn to Syria always crossed here.

[22] Ammianus Marcellinus, Bk. XXIII. ch. ii. 6.

[23] The Buildings of Justinian (Palest. Pilgrims’ Text Society), p. 66.

[24] A few of these may have preserved a certain importance in a later age: Tell el GhÂnah, directly to the east of Tell A?mar, has been conjectured to be Thilaticomum (possibly incorrectly: Regling, BeitrÄge zur alten Geschichte, 1902, Vol. I. p. 474) and Tell Bada’ah to be Aniana, the first being mentioned in the Antonine Itinerary and the second by Ptolemy.

[25] Mr. Hogarth (at whose request I visited Tell A?mar) has published the carved slabs and the stela in the Annals of ArchÆology and Anthropology, Vol. II. No. 4. He saw them when he was at Tell A?mar in 1908.

[26] JerÂblus or JerÂbÎs, the names are used indiscriminately. The former is thought by NÖldeke to be an Arabic plural of JirbÂs (mentioned by YÂ?Ût as opposite ?innesrin, Dictionary, Vol. II. p. 688) and the latter as Arabicized from Europus.

[27] The inscription is given by Pognon: Inscriptions de la MÉsopotamie, p. 17. The tomb was visited by Oppenheim, and is mentioned by him in Tell Halaf (1st number, 10th year of Der alte Orient), and in his Griechische und lateinische Inschriften. (Byzantinische Zeitschrift, 1905, p. 7.)

[28] Oppenheim thought it was the end of a sarcophagus, but Pognon’s guide climbed into the upper chamber and found it to be nothing but a block of stone closing the entrance.

[29] For the cyborium tomb, see Heisenburg: Grabeskirche und Apostelkirche, Vol. I. ch. xvi.

[30] A photograph of the fourth, the Ziareh of Khoros at Cyrrhus, was published by Chapot in Le Tour du Monde, April 8, 1905, p. 162.

[31] Mylasa: published by the Dilettanti Society; Tripoli: Nouvelles Archives des Missions, Tome XII. fas. 1; Dana: De VogÜÉ, La Syrie Centrale, plate 78.

[32] Tomb of Absalom, Jerusalem.

[33] Gereme: Rott, Kleinasiatische DenkmÄler, p. 171; El BÂrah: De VogÜÉ, op. cit. pl. 75.

[34] M. Cumont’s monuments are of this type and I have seen a fine example at BarÂd in N. Syria, also as yet unpublished except for a photograph given by me in The Desert and the Sown, p. 287.

[35] Maden Sheher: published by Sir W. Ramsay and myself in The Thousand and One Churches, p. 230.

[36] The name which has been suggested for the site is Baisampse, a place mentioned by Ptolemy. There are a considerable number of cut stones on the mound near the village.

[37] It was re-copied by Pognon and published by him in Inscrip. de la MÉsopotamie, p. 82. The similarity between some of the characters in the two inscriptions is striking.

[38] It appears in the extreme right-hand top corner of his Fig. 22, Inschrif. aus Syrien und Mesopot.

[39] I could not reconcile the topography here with Kiepert’s map. He marks a northern tower, which he calls Nesheib (doubtless my Neshabah) and places there the MazÂr of Sultan ’Abdullah. He has a second tower further to the south-east, and finally the castle itself. The second tower is non-existent, or else it represents the minaret in the castle. The only mazÂr which I saw or heard mentioned is that of Sultan SelÎm, a small modern building between Neshabah and the castle.

[40] It resembles the tower tombs at IrzÎ, which will be described later.

[41] This is Abu’l FidÂ’s account, ed. Reinaud, p. 277. He wrote in A.D. 1321. YÂ?Ût, a century earlier, gives the same story.

[42] Quoted by Ritter, Erdkunde, Vol. X. p. 241.

[43] Ainsworth believed this to be the site of Benjamin of Tudela’s Jewish settlement (Euphrates Expedition, Vol. I. p. 269), and he speaks of a monastic ruin here.

[44] It is so described in his map.

[45] Sachau thought that ?araglah was of Hellenistic origin (Reise in Syrien und Mesopotamien, p. 245); Sarre believes that it may be Parthian, and the circular outer fortification gives colour to the suggestion (Zeitschr. der Gesell. fÜr Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1909, No. 7).

[46] Sachau (op. cit. p. 243) gives the inscription, and my copy tallied with his.

[47] Just as the first mosque in Cairo, that of ’Amr, was built entirely on columns taken from earlier buildings, Mu?addasÎ describes one of the Ra??ah mosques as [Arabic script]; it would be satisfactory to imagine that he referred to the columned arcades of the mosque round the square minaret, but the phrase cannot reasonably be twisted into that or any other meaning. The square minaret is the ancient Syrian tower type; Thiersch has recently published an exhaustive study of it in his Pharos.

[48] I saw traces of two such arcades on the E., N. and W. sides of the court, and, judging from the vestiges that remain, the arcades must have been three deep to the south. The bricks of the vanished arcades have been dug out and carried away for building purposes. The outer walls are so much ruined that I could not determine the position of the gates with certainty.

[49] Professor van Berchem has published the inscription in his Arabische Inschriften, a chapter appended to the work of Professor Sarre and Dr. Herzfeld entitled Reise in Euphrat-und Tigris-Gebiet. But the publication has appeared too late for me to do more than refer to it.

[50] M. Viollet has published a short description of these ruins (Publications de l’AcadÉmie des Inscrip. et Belles-Lettres, 1909, Vol. XII. part 2). He believes the palace to have been erected by HÂrÛn er RashÎd.

[51] I expect that this is Sachau’s Bergland Tulaba—see Kiepert’s map.

[52] Bk. XXIII. ch. iii. 8.

[53] It was visited and planned by Sarre and Herzfeld in 1907; Sarre, Reise in Mesopotamien, in the Zeitschrift der Gesch. fÜr Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1909, No. 7, p. 429. Sarre pronounces the greater part of the ruins to date from the time of Justinian.

[54] Ibn ?au?al is, I think, the first to speak of it. IdrÎsÎ says that it had busy markets and that much traffic went through it. They wrote respectively in the tenth and twelfth centuries.

[55] Zur antiken Topographie der Palmyrene, p. 39.

[56] The reference is not, however, certain: Moritz, op. cit. p. 35.

[57] Sachau travelled up the left bank of the KhÂbÛr, and should therefore have crossed the course of the canal, but he makes no mention of it.

[58] I should conjecture that on the Euphrates as on the Tigris the disappearance of the settled population dates from the terrible disaster of the Mongol invasion.

[59] I looked carefully for any trace of a big canal opposite ?Âli?Îyeh and saw none.

[60] Anabasis, Bk. I. ch. 5, 9.

[61] With the doubtful contribution made by Ammianus Marcellinus to the question, I have dealt in the Appendix to this chapter.

[62] Amm. Mar., Bk. XXIV. ch. i. 6.

[63] Ed. de Goeje, p. 233.

[64] Ed. Reinaud, p. 286.

[65] Quoted by Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 717.

[66] De BeyliÉ: Prome et Samarra, p. 68. See, too, Viollet’s memoir presented to the Acad. des Inscrip. et B.-Lettres, quoted above. He, too, was shown the fragment of Assyrian relief and gives an illustration of it, for which reason I do not trouble to publish my photograph.

[67] Pognon: Inscriptions mandaÏtes des coupes de Khouabir.

[68] Chesney notices that the ruins of the old town lie on the left bank below the present ’Ânah. Quoted by Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 724.

[69] It is, I suppose, Chesney’s Sarifah, which has been conjectured to be the Kolosina of Ptolemy: Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 730.

[70] These ruins give additional weight to Ritter’s suggestion that ?adÎthah was the Parthian station of Olabus: Vol. XI. p. 731. The Arab town of ?adÎthah is first mentioned by Ibn KhurdÂdhbeh, ed. de Goeje, p. 74.

[71] Julian crossed the Euphrates at Parux Malkha, which cannot be far from BaghdÂdÎ, and captured the castle of Diacira. This castle must have stood at the southern end of the great bend made by the Euphrates below BaghdÂdÎ. Chesney saw the ruins of a fortress there. It is perhaps Ptolemy’s Idicara and the Izannesopolis of Isidorus: Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 737.

[72] Herodotus mentions the bitumen wells and calls the town Is. It has been identified with the Ihi of the Babylonian inscriptions, the Ahava of Ezra, and with the Ist from which a tribute of bitumen was brought to Thothmes III, according to an inscription at Karnak.

[73] YÂ?Ût mentions Kebeisah as the oasis four miles from HÎt upon the desert road. There are, he says, a number of villages there, the inhabitants of which live in the extreme of poverty and misery, by reason of the aridity of the surrounding waste.

[74] The central division wall in the long south chamber is a later addition.

[75] Described by Choisy: L’Art de bÂtir chez les Byzantins, p. 31.

[76] For example ?as?al (BrÜnnow and Domaszewski: Provincia Arabia, Vol. II. pl. xliv.); ?a?r el Abya? (de VogÜÉ: La Syrie Centrale, Vol. I. p. 69); Deir el Kahf, founded in A.D. 306 (Butler: Ancient Architecture in Syria, Section A, Part II. p. 146); ?u?eir el ?allÂbÂt, dated A.D. 213 (ditto, p. 72); barracks at AnderÎn, dated A.D. 558 (ditto, Section B, Part II. pl. viii.).

[77] ?uba with a triple court (Musil: ?u?eir ’Amra, Vol. I. p. 13); KharÂnÎ (ditto, p. 97); KhÂn ez ZebÎb (Provincia Arabia, Vol. II. p. 78).

[78] The whole area of ruins is known as KherÂb = ruin.

[79] It is not necessarily so late, for the BaghdÂd Gate at Ra??ah has the same arch, and it is certainly earlier.

[80] See Rothstein: Die Dynastie der Lakhmiden in al ?Îra, p. 25. He gives reasons for believing that the art of writing Arabic was first practised at ?Îrah. The population was largely Christian (the ’IbÂd of the Arab historians); ?Îrah was the seat of a bishopric, and frequent allusion is made to churches and monasteries in and near the town.

[81] Meissner: “?Îra und Khawarna?”, Sendschriften der D. Orient Gesell., No. 2.

[82] I have already published the plan in the Hellenic Journal for 1910, Part I., p. 69, in an article on the vaulting system of the palace. Ukhei?ir was visited in the year 1907 by M. Massignon, though this fact was unknown to me until I returned to England in July 1909. He has published an account of it, together with a sketch plan made under circumstances of great difficulty, in the Bulletin de l’Acad. des Inscr. et Belles-Lettres of March 1909, in the Gazette des Beaux Arts of April 1909, and in the MÉmoires de l’Institut franÇais du Caire, vol. xxviii. (The last named has not yet appeared, but he has been so kind as to let me see an advance copy.) Neither to M. Massignon nor to me belongs the honour of discovery; an unknown Englishman had visited the palace in the eighteenth century, and his brief report is given by Niebuhr (Reisebeschreibung, vol. ii., p. 225, note): “Ich habe in dem Tagebuch eines EnglÄnders, der von Haleb nach Basra gereist war, gefunden, dass er 44 Stunden SÜdfost nach Osten von Hit, eine ganz verlassene Stadt in der WÜste angetroffen habe, wovon die Mauer 50 Fuss hoch und 40 Fuss dick war. Jede der vier Seiten hatte 700 Fuss, und in der Mauer waren ThÜrme. In dieser Stadt oder grossem Castell, findet man noch ein kleines Castell. Von eben dieser verlassenen Stadt hÖrte ich nachher, dass sie von den Arabern El Khader genannt werde, und nur 10 bis 12 Stunden von Meshed Ali entfernt sei.” I cannot feel any doubt that the “forsaken town” referred to in the diary, the existence of which was confirmed by the Arabs, who spoke of it to Niebuhr under the name of Khader, is our Ukhei?ir. So far as I have been able to discover, the nameless Englishman was the first modern traveller to visit the site.

[83] I wish to call special attention to the presence of this construction at Ctesiphon because Dr. Herzfeld has stated erroneously that it does not exist in Sassanian buildings. (Der IslÂm, vol. i. part ii. p. 111.)

[84] The name Ukeidir can have no connection with the name Ukhei?ir. The two words are differently spelt in Arabic.

[85] The history of Mesopotamian rivers is exceedingly complicated owing to the frequency with which they change their beds. Mr. Le Strange (Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 70 et seq.) believes that the Nahr HindÎyeh, which is probably identical with the ’Al?ÂmÎ of ?udÂmah and Mas’ÛdÎ, was considered in the tenth century to be the main stream of the Euphrates, though even at that time it was not so broad as the ?illeh branch. Writing in 1905 Mr. Le Strange speaks of the ?illeh branch as being undoubtedly the main stream in modern times, but in 1909 nearly all the water, as I shall describe, flowed down the KÛfah branch (the HindÎyeh canal) and the ?illeh branch lay dry all the winter. This, however, will, it is to be hoped, be rectified by the new irrigation schemes on which Sir William Willcocks is at present engaged.

[86] It is known as the ’AmalÎyeh Mukallifeh.

[87] This applies, I believe, only to lands leased from the State, ar?Îyeh amÎrÎyeh.

[88] The foundations were, however, traced by Dieulafoy, who has indicated them in his plan: L’Art ancien de la Perse, Vol. V. When he first visited Ctesiphon, the east wall of both wings and all the vault of the hall were perfect.

[89] It was founded by AnushirwÂn the Just after he had taken Antioch of Syria in 540. He transported the inhabitants of Antioch to the Tigris and settled them opposite Seleucia in a new city which is said to have been built on the plan of Antioch. Le Strange: Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 33.

[90] SÛrah, XIV. vs. 46. The Arabs called the double town MedÂin, the cities, but ?abarÎ uses the name for the eastern city and describes the western as BahurasÎr. I have abridged ?abarÎ’s account of the siege from the text of de Goeje’s edition, Vol. V., Prima Series, under the years 15 and 16 A.H.

[91] The White Palace is not represented by the existing ruin on the east bank, which was known to the Arabs as AywÂn KisrÂ, the hall of Chosroes. The White Palace was also on the left bank, but about a mile higher up. It had disappeared by the beginning of the tenth century. Le Strange, op. cit., p. 34.

[92] Bricks stamped with Nebuchadnezzar’s name have been found along the quays, and there was a flourishing Persian BaghdÂd on the west bank of the Tigris towards the end of the Sassanian period. The chief authority for the history of BaghdÂd is Mr. Le Strange’s admirable book, BaghdÂd during the AbbÂsid Caliphate, which has made it possible to understand the very complicated topography of the town.

[93] It is perhaps unnecessary to explain that the ShÎ’ahs regard ’AlÎ ibn abÎ TÂlib, who lies buried at Nejef, as the only lawful khalif. He and his eleven immediate heirs are known as the Twelve ImÂms, the twelfth being Mu?ammad III al MahdÎ, who is credited with having been concealed in a cave at SÂmarr whence he will emerge at the end of days and re-establish the true faith.

[94] The whole argument is given by Le Strange, BaghdÂd, p. 160 et seq., and pp. 351-2.

[95] From its relation to similar buildings (for instance at ?adÎthah on the Euphrates and at DÛr on the Tigris) in places which probably flourished until the time of the Mongol invasion, i.e. towards the end of the thirteenth century, I should, however, place the tomb of Sitt Zobeideh earlier than 1200.

[96] See de BeyliÉ: Prome et Samara, p. 34.

[97] Mr. Le Strange gives good reasons for believing that Mustan?ir did not found the mosque to which this minaret belongs, but that it is no other than the JÂmi’ el ?a?r, built by the Khalif el MuktafÎ (A.D. 902) as a Friday Mosque adjoining the palace of his father Mu’ta?id. The palace was known as the ?a?r et TÂj, the Palace of the Crown: BaghdÂd, p. 269.

[98] These are exactly copied in the domes over the carrefours in the bazaars, which are certainly much later in date.

[99] I have been able to give an illustration of this system from KhÂn KhernÎna; the chambers at BaghdÂd were so dark that photography was almost impossible.

[100] Some admirable photographs of it are given by De BeyliÉ, op. cit., p. 33 et seq.

[101] A good photograph has been given by Viollet: Le Palais de Al-Moutasim, MÉmoires prÉsentÉs À l’Acad. des Inscrip. et Belles-Lettres, Vol. XII. Part II. Viollet believes it to have come from a church. See too Herzfeld: “Die Genesis der islamischen Kunst,” in Der IslÂm, Vol. I. Part I.

[102] De BeyliÉ, op. cit., p. 30. He gives several illustrations.

[103] Kiepert calls it KhÂn e? ?arniyeh.

[104] Sitace cannot be placed with certainty. Ritter (Vol. X. p. 21) conjectures that the bridge must have lain about four hours above BaghdÂd. After the battle of Cunaxa, a field of which the site is not determined, the Greeks pursued the Persians to a village on a mound where they passed the night. Here they learnt that Cyrus was dead. Next day they joined AriÆus and marched in one day to some unnamed Babylonian villages. They then marched through fertile country for a space of time not specified, probably a day, to well-supplied villages, where they stayed twenty-three days. In three days from these villages they reached the Median Wall, under the guidance of Tissaphernes, who must have led them by a tortuous course across Mesopotamia, and in two days more they came to Sitace, which was a populous city lying on an island formed by the Tigris and a canal. Sitace is perhaps Pliny’s Sittace (Bk. VI. ch. xxxi.), though his confused statement would seem to place it on the left bank of the Tigris. Ptolemy mentions a place called Scaphe, which MÜller is inclined to connect with the Sablis of the Tab. Peut., but it appears to have been some distance to the east of the Tigris (Ptolemy, ed. MÜller, p. 1006). The placing of Sitace depends upon the position of Opis, which is not satisfactorily determined.

[105] There was an earlier Dujeil which started from the Euphrates a little below HÎt, crossed Mesopotamia and joined the Tigris above BaghdÂd, but by the tenth century its eastern end had silted up. The later Dujeil was a loop canal from the Tigris; it left the river opposite ?ÂdisÎyah and rejoined it at ’UkbarÂ. These complicated questions may easily be understood by referring to the first map in Mr. Le Strange’s BaghdÂd.

[106] The term is the equivalent of the northern Chiflik. The latter is a Turkish word signifying merely farm, but it designates especially a farm belonging to the Sultan.

[107] ’Ukbar was a well-known place in the days of the Khalifate. Mu?addasÎ (ed. de Goeje, p. 122.) It lay on the east bank of the Tigris, i.e. on the east bank of the old channel. Le Strange, Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 50.

[108] Kiepert marks WÂneh to the south of ’UkbarÂ, whereas I should place it a little to the north. We rode to Sumeikhah in about an hour from the ImÂm Mu?ammad ’AlÎ, which would have been impossible from Kiepert’s WÂneh, or for that matter from his ’UkbarÂ. I am relying, however, for the names upon the not too certain testimony of ?Âsim. Both ’Ukbar and WÂneh are mentioned by Mu?addasÎ, but he gives no indication of their relative position. He provides us with no more information about WÂneh than its name (ed. de Goeje, pp. 54 and 115), which he spells AiwanÂ. The customary mediÆval spelling is AwÂnÂ, and other authorities place the town on the west bank of the old Tigris bed, while ’Ukbar lay opposite to it on the east bank (Streck: Die alte Landschaft Babylonien, p. 227). This would correspond fairly well with my itinerary. I rode from ’Ukbar in a north-westerly direction and reached WÂneh in forty-five minutes.

[109] Journal of the Geog. Soc., Vol. XI. p. 124.

[110] Anabasis, Bk. II. ch. iv. 25.

[111] Bk. I. 189.

[112] Bk. XVI. ch. i. 9.

[113] Bk. VI. ch. xxxi. Though I believe that the ruins on the east bank seen by Ross and the extensive ruin field on what is now the west bank of the Tigris must represent Opis, the locating of the city is complicated by the fact that Xenophon took four days to reach Opis from Sitace. Now if Sitace is anywhere near BaghdÂd it is strange that the Greeks should have marched four days and got no further than a town situated immediately to the north of the ’A?Êm. The Physcus, which Xenophon crossed by a bridge of boats before coming to Opis, may be the ’A?Êm, but some have supposed it to be the great ?Â?Ûl-NahrawÂn, a loop canal on the east bank of the Tigris. I do not know, however, that there is any record of a canal here before the Sassanian period (Le Strange: Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 57). Chesney tried to solve the difficulty of Xenophon’s march by placing Opis higher up the river at ?adsÎyeh, but that would leave the great ruin field lower down unidentified, and would, besides, leave too long a time for the march from Opis to the Great ZÂb, which occupied the Greeks eleven days. For the site of the Babylonian Opis, see King: Sumer and Akkad, p. 11.

[114] It is probably one of the districts which were ruined by the Mongol invasion.

[115] i.e. “raids and so forth”; the second word is merely a repetition of the first with the initial letter r changed to m. This convenient form is very common in Turkish.

[116] This ?ÂdisÎyah must not be confounded with the battlefield near ?irah where KhÂlid ibn u’l WalÎd overthrew the Sassanians.

[117] Sarre thinks it was empty, and holds that the town was never finished or inhabited. He would therefore place here ?Â?Ûl, the site first fixed upon for his capital by the Khalif Mu’ta?im when he left BaghdÂd. Finding SÂmarr to be better placed, he abandoned ?Â?Ûl before the work there was completed: Ya’?ÛbÎ, ed. de Goeje, p. 256. Sarre: Reise in Mesop. Zeitsch. der Gesell. fÛr Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1909, No. 7, p. 437. Schwartz, however, suggests that ?Â?Ûl may have lain to the north of SÂmarrÂ: Die AbbÂsiden-Residenz SÂmarrÂ, p. 5. Ross thought that ?ÂdisÎyah was Sassanian, but I am persuaded that he was in error. (A Journey from BaghdÂd to Opis, Journal of the Geog. Soc., Vol. XI. p. 127.) Jones gives a plan: Memoirs, p. 8.

[118] The MalwÎyeh can scarcely be any other than the minaret described by BalÂdhurÎ among Mutawakkil’s buildings: FutÛ? ul BuldÂn, p. 306, Cairo edition of 1901. The ruins of SÂmarr have not yet received the detailed study which they deserve, but Professor Sarre and Dr. Herzfeld are about to begin an exhaustive examination of the site. Sketch plans have been published by De BeyliÉ (Prome et Samarra), and at about the same time Herzfeld brought out a small monograph entitled SÂmarrÂ. I had this monograph with me, and finding the plans to be incorrect and the drawings inexact (for example, the ornament drawn in fig. 5 gives little idea of the original), I measured and photographed all the ruins over again. Meantime Viollet has published a short account of his journey in Mesopotamia, in which he has given plans of the ruins of SÂmarrÂ: Le Palais de Al Moutasim, etc., MÉmoires of the Acad. des Inscrip. et Belles-Lettres, Vol. XII. Part II. His attempt to reconstruct the ground plan of the palace of which the Beit el KhalÎfah forms part, is of great interest.

[119] Ed. de Goeje, p. 256.

[120] Lands of the Eastern Califate, p. 53. Am. Mar., Bk. XXV. ch. vi. 4.

[121] This is marked in Viollet’s plan.

[122] Herzfeld, SÂmarra, p. 61, places the old quarter of Karkh at ShnÂs and DÛr ’ArabÂy at EskÎ BaghdÂd. Karkh is the Charcha of Ammianus Marcellinus.

[123] Mutawakkil began a new canal from the Tigris to the NahrawÂn, the latter having silted up by the ninth century, but the labour of cutting through the hard conglomerate was found to be too great and the work was abandoned. I do not know whether the canal I crossed was of his making, but I fancy it was the NahrawÂn itself, perhaps cleared and deepened by him. Ross (op. cit., p. 129) speaks of bridge foundations formed of large “artificial stones” (concrete?) “joined together by iron clamps and melted lead.” I saw nothing but brick, but Ross’s bridge may well be, as he conjectured, earlier than the Mohammadan period, since it probably spanned the Sassanian canal. I thought the artificial mound to be pre-Mohammadan.

[124] There is some doubt about this inscription. Professor Sarre copied it without noticing the date, which was covered with whitewash; he gave it to Professor van Berchem, who decided that the shape of the letters pointed indubitably to the ninth century. Professor van Berchem’s authority in such matters is not to be questioned, but the date must be accounted for. Perhaps it was a later addition, put in when the shrine was repaired.

[125] A Residence in Koordistan, Vol. II. p. 147. The book was published in 1836.

[126] Kal’at Abu RayÂsh, which is marked in Kiepert’s map, has almost disappeared, the high ground on which it stands having fallen away and carried the walls and towers with it.

[127] KhÂn KhernÎna is not mentioned by Ibn Jubeir nor by Ibn Ba?Û?ah, who both travelled by this side of the Tigris from TekrÎt to MÔ?ul, the one at the end of the twelfth century, and the other in the middle of the fourteenth century.

[128] Not, I believe, by Layard, who was always careful to cover what he did not remove.

[129] Dr. Herzfeld has been so good as to send me the chapter of his forthcoming work (written in conjunction with Professor Sarre), in which he gives a further account of SÂmarrÂ. When it reached me my description of the ruins was already printed, and I can do no more than acknowledge, with gratitude, his kindness.

[130] Viollet puts them ten deep to the south, four deep to the north and five deep to east and west.

[131] In Man?Ûr’s mosque at BaghdÂd, the roof was borne by wooden columns. See Le Strange, BaghdÂd, p. 34.

[132] Lands of the Eastern Califate, p. 56.

[133] Its original name is doubtful. In the twelfth century it was called the Ma’shÛk, for Ibn Jubeir alludes to it under that name in the twelfth century, and so does Ibn Ba?Û?ah in the fourteenth century.

[134] Viollet has given a section of them, pl. xviii.

[135] Viollet’s plan, pl. xvii, is here more complete than mine.

[136] I give a plan of the three vaulted halls, but Viollet has made a sketch plan of the ground behind which furnishes indications of the whole scheme of the palace. The Beit el KhalÎfah is perhaps the DÂr el ’Ammeh, the first palace built by Mu’ta?im upon the site of the monastery: Herzfeld, SÂmarrÂ, p. 63.

[137] Ross distinguished in 1834 a substructure of “arches” (op. cit., p. 129) by which he must mean vaults like those at the ’Ashi?.

[138] An account of it, together with a sketch plan, was given by Ross, op. cit., p. 130.

[139] Viollet has given a plan of Abu DulÂf. Herzfeld did not publish it in his SÂmarrÂ, for he had not at that time visited it, but he has since published a plan: Zeitschr. fÜr Gesch. der Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1909, No. 7, pl. viii. My plan differs considerably from his, but only a re-examination of the mosque can prove which of us is right.

[140] This vestibule is present opposite the south gate of the SÂmarr mosque. Herzfeld has made an attempt to reconstruct the vestibule of Abu DulÂf. Viollet has given a bare indication of it, and this is all that exists. Viollet has also marked the line of an outer wall, which, as at SÂmarrÂ, enclosed the precincts of the mosque.

[141] Abu DulÂf was probably built by Mutawakkil when he erected a whole new quarter three farsakhs north of ShnÂs: Ya’?ÛbÎ, ed. de Goeje, p. 266.

[142] The spiral tower occurs also in Sassanian architecture, witness the Atesh Gah of Jur, Dieulafoy: L’Art ancien de la Perse, Vol. IV. p. 79.

[143] Thiersch has indicated the true relation of Ibn ?ÛlÛn’s minaret both to the zigurrat of Mesopotamia and to the pharos of Alexandria. His objections to Herzfeld’s theory that the Cairo minaret is purely Hellenistic in origin are conclusive. Thiersch: Pharos, p. 112.

[144] I believe it is generally admitted by the learned in these matters that Nestorius was not guilty of the heresies for which he was condemned in 431, at the second oecumenical council held at Ephesus. I remember to have heard a distinguished English Catholic, who was also an acute historian, express his definite opinion that Nestorius was in the right, for all his expulsion beyond the pale of western Christianity. An excellent account of the rise of the Eastern Churches is contained in Wigram’s recently published book, The Assyrian Church.

[145] I am relying upon local tradition, upon comparison with churches in the country districts, and upon the character of the ornament compared with Moslem ornament in MÔ?ul which can be dated with tolerable accuracy.

[146] The barn church is more fully defined in The Thousand and One Churches, published by Sir W. Ramsay and myself, p. 309.

[147] There is a description of MÂr TÛm in Rich: Residence in Koordistan, Vol. II. p. 118.

[148] All the doors in the atrium of MÂr TÛm look as if they had been patched together out of older materials, but I suspect that these materials came from the church itself and that the patching is due to repair.

[149] Badr ed DÎn LÛlÛ, 1233-1259, according to Lane Poole: Mohammadan Dynasties, p. 163; Ritter, following Desguignes, makes him regent from 1213-1222, and an independent sovereign from 1222-1259.

[150] Le Strange: Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 89.

[151] Oppenheim, Vom Mittelmeere zum persischen Golf, Vol. II. p. 176, gives a short description of it.

[152] De BeyliÉ has given a good photograph of the general view: Prome et Samarra, p. 49.

[153] This decoration is curiously akin to some of the Buddhist GrÆco-Bactrian work.

[154] In the middle ages it was more numerous. Benjamin of Tudela found a colony of 7,000 Jews at MÔ?ul: Ritter, Vol. X. p. 254.

[155] An account of MÂr BehnÂm has been published by Pognon: Inscriptions de la MÉsopotamie, p. 132. He believes that the existing church is due to a reconstruction that took place in the twelfth century, but its original form seems to him to be the same as that of MÂr Gabriel of KartmÎn in the ?Ûr ’AbdÎn, a church which I should date not later than the sixth century. The history of MÂr BehnÂm would therefore offer an exact analogy to that of the churches of MÔ?ul, according to my theory; it is a mediÆval building following the lines of a very early structure. Pognon gives a good illustration of the altar niche in the tomb (Pl. VIII), which is dated the year of the Seleucid era corresponding to 1306 A.D. The superstructure he takes to have been a baptistery.

[156] They must be dated before 1550, according to Pognon’s reasoning. He speaks of them with great contempt, and they are not very remarkable works of art, though they seemed to me to be of considerable interest. The Moslems call the monastery Deir el Khi?r, Khi?r being the Mohammadan counterpart of St. George. The village close at hand is known as El Khi?r.

[157] The following notes on the decorations of the church are perhaps worth recording. S.W. door in porch: on lintel, a pair of birds on either side of a cross; over lintel, two snakes, tail to tail, with open jaws turned to what looks like a piled-up cup; in the corners, lions with tails ending in the head of a snake; band of entrelac and round it a band of Syriac inscriptions surrounding the door. N.W. door in porch: on lintel, an angel on either side of a cross; over lintel, small crosses with a boss between, two circles with a star in each; at either corner the figure of a saint; entrelac and inscriptions. Door from nave into apse; on lintel, a lion’s head forming a central boss, on either side St. George and the Dragon. Door into S.E. chapel: on lintel a cross; round door, small niches formed by an interlacing rope (cf. the sanctuary door of MÂr TÛm at MÔ?ul), the niches alternately filled with a saint and a decorated cross; above the door two of the niches are filled with representations of: (1) the baptism in Jordan; (2) the entry into Jerusalem, with an ass and palms in the background. The spandrils between the upper niches are filled in with dragons’ heads with open jaws.

[158] Pognon found inscriptions of the thirteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries at ?ara?Ôsh (op. cit., p. 129), but the inscriptions inside the churches have not, so far as I know, been recorded.

[159] The bishop had not perhaps retained a clear memory of his facts—if facts they can be called; but Rich seems to have found the history of MÂr Mattai and MÂr BehnÂm scarcely less involved than I did: Residence in Koordistan, Vol. II. p. 75. See, too, Pognon, op. cit., p. 132, note 1.

[160] I fancy that ’Abdullah’s explanation was not far from the truth. Layard, who is the best of all authorities on this country, makes the following remarks about the Shabbak: “Though strange and mysterious rites are as usual attributed to them” (i.e. as is usual with regard to a secret creed), “I suspect they are simply the descendants of Kurds who emigrated at some distant period from the Persian slopes of the mountains, and who still profess Sheeite doctrines. They may, however, be tainted with Ali-Illahism, which consists mainly in the belief that there have been successive incarnations of the Deity, the principal having been in the person of Ali, the celebrated son-in-law of the prophet Mohammad. The name usually given, Ali-Illahi, means ‘believers that Ali is God.’ Various abominable rites have been attributed to them, as to the Yezidis, Ansyris, and all sects whose doctrines are not known to the surrounding Mussulman and Christian population.” Nineveh and Babylon, p. 216.

[161] A full description of the reliefs is contained in Layard’s Nineveh and Babylon, p. 207. Mr. King is so kind as to inform me that the smaller panels at BaviÂn were carved in the reign of Sennacherib, between the dates 689 B.C. and 681 B.C. The larger sculptures are to be assigned to Shalmaneser II (860-825 B.C.).

[162] It has been described and drawn by Layard: Nineveh and Babylon, p. 48.

[163] In the photograph ’AlÎ Beg is seated and the ?awwÂl stands to the right of him. The figure on the left is the Christian secretary, and the close-shaven man behind the beg is FattÛ?.

[164] Layard mentions that the oil for the lamps is provided out of the funds of the shrine: Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. I. p. 291.

[165] Layard pointed out the connection between the white bull offered annually to the YezÎdÎ solar saint and a similar sacrifice in the Assyrian ritual: Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. I. p. 290.

[166] This doctrine is, however, older than the SÛfÎs; it was held by the MandÆans and is a part of the Asiatic heritage of religious ideas out of which the YezÎdÎ creed has been formed. The transmigration of souls, another MandÆan tenet, is also professed by the YezÎdÎs.

[167] This, too, is an article of the MandÆan faith.

[168] The late Lord Percy, who visited Sheikh ’AdÎ in 1897, found nothing but the outer shell and the roof intact. It had been wrecked by a Turkish general who had made a resolute attempt to convert or exterminate (the two expressions are practically synonymous) the YezÎdÎs: Notes from a Diary, p. 184.

[169] Nineveh and Babylon, p. 83.

[170] Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. I. p. 280, and Nineveh and Babylon, p. 81.

[171] Residence in Koordistan, Vol. II. p. 91.

[172] Layard: Nineveh and its Remains, Vol. I. p. 230. See, too, Perrot and Chipiez: Histoire de l’Art, Vol. II. p. 642.

[173] Travels in the Track, p. 144.

[174] ZÂkhÔ must be the place known to the Arab geographers as ?asanÎyeh (I see that Hartmann comes to the same conclusion: BohtÂn, Mitt. der Vorderas. Gesell., 1896, II. p. 39), but their information is, as usual, exceedingly meagre and the castle is mentioned by none. Mu?addasÎ, in the tenth century, says that it is a day’s journey from Ma’lathÂy (Malthai) to ?asanÎyeh (ed. de Goeje, p. 149), and notes the bridge over the KhÂbÛr above the town (p. 139). YÂ?Ût, in the thirteenth century, observes that it is two days from MÔ?ul on the road to JezÎret ibn ’Umar. Ainsworth conjectures it to be the spot described by Xenophon as “a kind of palace with several villages round it,” which was reached by the Greeks in five days’ march from Mespila-Nineveh, but it must be admitted that Xenophon’s description is not exactly suited to ZÂkhÔ. Ritter thinks that a memory of the people called by Strabo Saccopodes may be retained in the name ZÂkhÔ (Vol. IX. p. 705). With regard to the name ?asanÎyeh it is perhaps preserved in ?asanah, a small village on the opposite side of the KhÂbÛr valley.

[175] Ainsworth thinks that it may mark the site of the village at which the Greeks camped on the second day from ZÂkhÔ: Travels in the Track, p. 146. Xenophon mentions neither the KhÂbÛr nor the ?eizil.

[176] Mr. King, who has visited JÛdÎ DÂgh, tells me that all the reliefs are of Sennacherib and were carved in the year 699 B.C.

[177] Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 154.

[178] So said Kas Mattai, but the Arab geographers would seem to place it to the south of JÛdÎ DÂgh, not to the north. For example, Mu?addasÎ says that ThamÂnÎn, the village of the eighty who were saved from the flood, stand on the river Ghazil (the ?eizil SÛ), a day’s march from ?asanÎyeh (ZÂkhÔ), ed. de Goeje, pp. 139 and 149. Sachau, however, speaks of BÊtmanÎn as being behind JÛdÎ DÂgh, i.e. he bears out my information: Reise, p. 376.

[179] It has been identified with the Bezabde of Ammianus Marcellinus, the Saphe of Ptolemy (ed. MÜller, p. 1005), and the Sapha of the Peutinger Tables. Ammianus Marcellinus is generally supposed to have confused Bezabde-JezÎreh with Phoenice-Finik, saying that the two names are applied to the same place. In his account of the capture of Bezabde by Sapor II, in A.D. 360, his description applies better to Finik than to JezÎreh (Bk. XX. ch. vii. 1. See, however, Hartmann: BohtÂn, Part II. p. 98). He relates further that Constantius attempted in vain to re-capture Bezabde (Bk. XX. ch. xi.), but in this passage he must mean JezÎreh. I can find little in the history of JezÎreh except the mention of sieges: by TÎmÛr for example (Ritter, Vol. IX. p. 709), and by the emirs of BohtÂn (Rich: op. cit., Vol. I. p. 106). When Moltke visited it in 1838 it was a heap of ruins (Briefe aus der Turkei, Berlin, 1893, p. 251), and it was not much more when I saw it.

[180] Sachau notices these reliefs. In his opinion the inscriptions are of no great age: Reise, p. 379.

[181] Ibn Ba?Û?ah, in the fourteenth century, mentions an old mosque in the market place, which is probably the same as the one I saw, though it has undergone many alterations and reparations since his day.

[182] Nineveh and Babylon, p. 55.

[183] The caves are carefully excavated and I should say that they are ancient. Layard (Nineveh and Babylon, p. 54) speaks of them as tombs and some may have been intended as burial-places, but I do not doubt that many were from all time used by the living. The troglodyte habits of the dwellers in these mountains are still strongly marked. Above BÂ’adrÎ I saw an underground village; at ?i?n Keif, higher up the Tigris, the people live in rock-hewn chambers.

[184] Anabasis, Bk. IV. ch. i.

[185] Ammianus Marcellinus, when he speaks of Izala, evidently intends the name to cover the whole ?Ûr ’AbdÎn: Bk. XVIII. ch. vi. 11, and Bk. XIX. ch. ix. 4.

[186] The Jacobites and the Syrians (i.e. Jacobites who have submitted to Rome) have now ousted the Nestorians, who must have been the first to occupy the ?Ûr ’AbdÎn. When this change took place I do not know, but the Nestorians were in possession of the monastery of MÂr Augen as late as 1505: Pognon, op. cit., p. 109.

[187] Pognon’s account of the churches, and his publication of the inscriptions, is the best work on the subject (Inscriptions de la MÉsopotamie); Parry (Six Months in a Syrian Monastery) gives a short description of the churches and some sketch plans.

[188] Tigris ferry 9.25; Handak (Christian) 9.45; Thelailah (Moslem) 10.40; KÔdakh—marked in Kiepert—we saw at 12.15, a little to the south of our route.

[189] Our itinerary was as follows: 5.30 Azakh; 6.30 a ruined site (marked in Kiepert); 7.5 SalakÛn (Kiepert: Salekon Kharabe), a small Moslem village; 8 Middo (marked in Kiepert), a Christian village on the further side of a deep gorge (here we got into the oak woods); 9 Irmez, about a mile to the south of our road; 9.25 Arba’, a Christian village also about a mile south; 9.45-10.45 Deir MÂr Shim’Ûn, a ruined monastery; 11.30 Deir Bar Sauma, the first monastery of BÂ SebrÎna.

[190] Monasteria clericorum. See The Thousand and One Churches, p. 461.

[191] Pognon: op. cit., p. 108. The stela has not, as Pognon feared, been destroyed. The script is in an unknown alphabet, which Pognon believes to be the prototype of PehlevÎ. He gives excellent photographs of the two inscriptions; my photograph shows the relief on the third side. The fourth side is much weather-worn.

[192] I sent the photograph to Professor van Berchem. The inscription is merely a date: 630 (= A.D. 1232-3), or possibly 639.

[193] The name itself is unintelligible.

[194] The Buildings of Justinian (Palestine Pilgrims’ Text Society), p. 51.

[195] I would suggest that ?al’at ej JedÎd may occupy the site of the Sisaurana of Procopius, which was destroyed by Belisarius. Sisaurana, however, lay three miles from Rhabdium, and even as the crow flies the distance between ?. ?Âtim ?Âi and ?. ej JedÎd must be greater. But the important position of ?. ej JedÎd on one of the few passes up from the plain suggests that the spot must have been fortified in ancient times. Sisaurana is no doubt the Sisara of Ammianus Marcellinus: see Ritter, Vol. XI. p. 150 and pp. 400-401.

[196] Though tradition links these foundations with Egypt, it is quite possible that they may have had a yet closer connection with Syria, where in the fourth century monasticism and the solitary life had already taken a strong hold. Duchesne: Histoire de l’Eglise, Vol. II. p. 516.

[197] Kiepert marks a “Gr. Coenobium von Izala,” which is, I imagine, intended for MÂr Augen, but its position relatively to ?. ej JedÎd and Useh Dereh, as marked in the map, cannot be correct. MÂr YuhannÂ, which lies to the east of MÂr Augen, approaches more nearly to Kiepert’s site. I have published a short account of these and other monasteries and churches of the ?Ûr ’AbdÎn in Amida (Strzygowski and Van Berchem).

[198] Kiepert places MÂr Melko too far from Useh Dereh. My itinerary was as follows: Useh Dereh to MÂr Melko, 1 hr.; MÂr Melko to Kharabah ’Aleh, 30 min.; Kharabah ’Aleh to Kernaz, 2 hrs. 15 min.; Kernaz to Deir el ’Amr, 1 hr. 15 min. All these places are marked in the map.

[199] Niebuhr heard that MÂr Melko was famed for the curing of epilepsy: Reisebericht, Vol. II. p. 388. Not having penetrated into the ?Ûr ’AbdÎn, he thought that the report that there were seventy monasteries in the hills must be an exaggeration, but I expect that it was not far from the truth.

[200] Deir ’Umar, 5.30; MezÎzakh, 8.15; MidyÂd, 9.15.

[201] I visited inside the town MÂr Shim’Ûn, which is in process of being rebuilt, and MÂr Barsauma, which has been completely rebuilt. Outside the town is the monastery of MÂr IbrahÎm and MÂr HÔbel. It has recently been repaired, but much of the masonry is ancient. The two churches, dedicated to the two patron saints, belong to the monastic type of MÂr Gabriel; the mouldings round the doors, and the cyma cornice are old. There is also a small chapel, dedicated to the Virgin; it is square in plan and covered by a dome on squinches, but it appeared to me to be of later date. I was shown in this monastery a very remarkable silken vestment. The ground is of green satin covered with a repeated pattern in gold, silver and coloured silks, representing a woman in a red robe seated in a howdah upon the back of a camel. A man naked to the waist is seated upon the ground with his head bowed upon his hands. A variety of animals and floral motives are scattered round the principal figures. The subject is no doubt taken from the story of Leila and MajnÛn. The date of this brocade is probably somewhere between 1560 and 1660. A fragment showing a like pattern is in the possession of Dr. Sarre. The monastery possesses besides a small bronze thurible, of which I succeeded in procuring a counterpart. A similar thurible exists in the British Museum (No. 540 in the catalogue of Early Christian and Byzantine Antiquities); it is said to have come from MÂr Musa el Habashi, between Damascus and Palmyra. The Kaiser Friedrich Museum has obtained several in Cairo and Trebizond (Wulff: Altchristliche Bildwerke, Teil I, nos. 967-970). These are ascribed to the sixth and seventh centuries. Mr. Dalton, to whom I owe this information, gives me references to two others, one in the Bargello collection at Florence (No. 241 in the catalogue of the Carraud Collection, published in 1898) and one published in the Echos d’Orient, VII., 1904, p. 148.

[202] I have published photographs and plans of the Jacobite church of the Virgin and the Greek Orthodox church of MÂr Cosmo in Amida: Van Berchem and Strzygowski.

[203] The Yeni Kapu differs in plan from the other three. It has square bastions, whereas they are protected on either side by massive round towers. The round towers extend all along the northern parts of the wall; on the other sides the towers are rectangular.

[204] A sketch plan, made by De BeyliÉ, is published in Amida.

[205] His phrase “under the citadel but in the very heart of Amida” is difficult to understand. It does not seem to imply a spring outside the walls, yet there is no place “under the citadel” and within the walls.

[206] One is known by inscriptions to have been erected by the Orto?id Sultan Malek Shah in the year A.D. 1208-1209, and the other must belong to the same period. The inscriptions have been published by Van Berchem, see Lehmann-Haupt: Materialen zur Älteren Geschichte Armeniens und Mesopotamiens, p. 140. They are more fully published in Amida, but that work has not appeared in time for me to make any accurate reference to it.

[207] Our itinerary was as follows: DiyÂrbekr, 7; Shilbeh, 8; Uch Keui, 9.5; Dereh Gechid Chai, a deep valley once noted for brigands, 10.45; Tolek, a village on the opposite side of this valley, 11. Here followed 35 minutes’ halt during which the caravan caught us up and passed us, but we came up with it again before we reached ?ara KhÂn Chai, a small river, at 1 o’clock. We got to TarmÛr at 2.45. I give these hours since Kiepert’s map is frequently mistaken as to relative distances.

[208] The day’s march was TarmÛr, 6; Kayden Keui, 6.30; Shawa Keui, 6.50 (both these villages lay about three-quarters of an hour to the right of the road); Tulkhum, a mile to the left of the road by a big mound, 7.10; we climbed a low ridge and dropped into a little plain in which we crossed a stream at 8.15; Kadi Keui to the right, 8.30; road up to Arghana, 9; monastery, 10.10-10.55; crossed the Ma’den Chai by Kalender KoprÜsi at 1; Khan above Arghana Ma’den, 3; the caravan had arrived a few minutes before us.

[209] The day’s march was as follows: KhÂn of Arghana Ma’den, 6.20; KhÂn of PÜnoz, at upper end of gorge, 9.40 (the village of PÜnoz lies up a rocky valley to the right); ?Âsim KhÂn, at further side of plain, 10.55-11.30—there is no village here; GÖljik, 11.55; Shabyan, a small village near the water parting, 1.40; Keghvank, 4.

[210] Mezreh is perhaps Ptolemy’s Mazara (ed. MÜller, p. 945), and it bears the same name in the Peutinger Tables.

[211] The garrison consisted of 65 men and 80 beautiful ladies, a proportion of the sexes which may have contributed to Balak’s victory.

[212] KharpÛt has been identified with Carcathicerta, which was the royal city of Sophene, according to Strabo.

[213] Since the outbreak of 1895 a Christian governor has been appointed in all vilayets which contain a large proportion of Armenians. The Mu’Âvin VÂlÎs are nominally co-rulers with their Moslem colleagues, but report, I know not with how much justice, credits them with little influence and less initiative.

[214] Mezreh, 6.5; KhÂn Keui, 9.25; Tell Ma?mÛd, left of road, 9.45; Chaghullah, left of road, 9.55; Sapolar (left), 10.5; Harnik (right), 10.20; MelekjÂn (about a mile to the right), 10.35; Cholak UshagÎ, where there is a khÂn, 11-11.45. Here we crossed a ridge into a valley which runs down to the Euphrates. Tutli Keui (left), 2.5; over another ridge and down to KÖmÜr KhÂn at 3.35; Iz Oglu, 5.45.

[215] It is probably the ancient caravan road from CÆsarea and Ephesus to Babylon.

[216] Iz Oglu (on the west bank of the Murad Su), 8; Masnik, 10.15; a big chiflik of which I do not know the name, 12-12.30; we climbed a long hill, reaching the summit at 2.15, and got to Mala?iyah at 2.45.

[217] They had been published, but not very satisfactorily. I gave my photographs to Mr. Hogarth, who published them in the Annals of ArchÆology and Anthropology, Vol. II. No. 4.

[218] Melitene does not appear to have been in existence in Strabo’s time, for he says that there were no towns in the fruitful plain, but only strongholds upon the mountains (Bk. XII. ii. 6). Procopius states that it was raised by Trajan to the dignity of a city, whereas before it had been nothing but a square fortification on low ground (Palestine Pilgrims’ Text Society Edition, p. 82). Diocletian made it the capital of Armenia Secunda (Ramsay: Historical Geography, p. 313); it was the centre of the military roads guarding the frontiers of the Roman empire towards the Euphrates, and the standing camp of the XII Legion, Fulminata (id. p. 55). With this increase of importance it outgrew, according to Procopius, its former limits, so that the people built over the plain “their churches, the dwellings of their magistrates, the market-place and the shops of their merchants, the streets, porticoes, baths and theatres, and all the other ornaments of a large city.” Melitene was thus composed mostly of suburbs until Justinian surrounded it with a wall. There must, however, have been cities in the plain, of which Strabo knew nothing, long before Trajan’s time, as is proved by existing mounds, and Pliny seems to have preserved a dim memory of these when he speaks of Melitene as having been founded by Semiramis (Bk. VI. ch. iii.).

[219] Mala?iyah Eskishehr, 9.45; KhÂtÛnyeh (a quarter of a mile to the left), 10.20; a chiflik (name unknown), 11.45-12.15; Saman Keui, a village near a big mound, 12.55. In a graveyard near here I noticed two fragments of round columns. At 1.25 we crossed a deep valley and saw the village of Shehna KhÂn about half-a-mile to the right; Elemenjik, 3.10. Not all these villages are marked in Kiepert and some are wrongly placed. There is cultivation round each village, but the plain between is usually untilled.

[220] Arga has been identified with Arca, where there was a Roman station (Arca was also the seat of a bishopric: Ramsay, Hist. Geog., p. 314), and with Ptolemy’s Arcala (ed. MÜller, p. 888). The great road mentioned by Strabo which led from Babylon to Ephesus, crossing the Euphrates at Tomisa-Iz Oglu, passed through Arca (according to Sir W. Ramsay’s suggestion, op. cit., p. 273) and ran through Dandaxina and Osdara to Arabissus and thence through the mountains to CÆsarea. Kiepert places Dandaxina immediately to the south of the Tokhma Su and Osdara in the same latitude; Ramsay puts both places further south, and Sterritt’s evidence supports Ramsay’s conclusions. Between Arga and Ekrek my route did not touch the Roman road as laid down by Ramsay, but ran further to the north, and where I crossed the mountains, between Osmandedeli and ’AzÎzÎyeh, I saw no trace of an ancient road, nor can I think that wheeled traffic can ever have followed that line. Ainsworth travelled down the Tokhma Su from GÖrÜn to Derendeh, but he came over the Akcheh DÂgh between Derendeh and Arga, whereas I crossed it further east from Arga to Ozan. Ainsworth observes that there were never more than two roads from Derendeh to Mala?iyah, one following the line he took, and one the valley of the Tokhma Su down to the plain (Travels and Researches, Vol. I. p. 247). I do not feel inclined to dispute that opinion, for though I found a third way from Mala?iyah to Derendeh, it cannot be called a road. The mouldings and capitals which I saw at Arga pointed to a date not later than the sixth century.

[221] Ozan, 10.30; Mullah ’AlÎ Shehr, 11.5-40; Polat Ushagha, 12.35; Tozeli, some distance to the left, 12.55; a ruined khÂn marked by Kiepert, 1.20. Here we saw up a valley to the north the village of Palanga, marked by Kiepert. Above the khÂn the river flows through a gorge, and on the rocks above it are the ruins of a small fort, which we reached at 2.20; KÖtÜ ?al’ah village, 2.45.

[222] We passed upon the way only one village, MÜgdeh, where we crossed the Tokhma Su. Kiepert has suggested that Derendeh may represent the site of ancient Dalanda; for objections to this view, see Ramsay, op. cit., p. 309.

[223] The existing ruins are probably mediÆval. Ainsworth (Travels and Researches, Vol. I. p. 246) reports an illegible inscription, presumably Arabic or Turkish, over the gate. I do not remember to have seen it. The fortress of ?arandah is mentioned as early as the year A.D. 702, when it was in the hands of a Moslem garrison. In the ninth century it was held by the Paulicians, a sect of Eastern Christians whose beliefs were mingled with ManichÆanism. (Le Strange: Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, p. 120.)

[224] GÖrÜn, 12; summit of hill, 1.15 (but we had ridden considerably faster than our usual pace); Kevak Euren, to the left, 3.10; chiflik, 4.30; OsmÂndedelÎ, 5.

[225] OsmÂndedelÎ, 6.25; KaindÎjeh, 7.10; there is a better road from here, but it makes a long circuit by GÜnesh and Parenk, and I declined to take it. KÜpek Euren, 8.20; Bey Punar, 9.45; water parting, 11.10; Boran Dereh Keui, 5.10.

[226] ’AzÎzÎyeh is the ancient Ariarathia and its foundation dates from the second or third century B.C.: Ramsay, op. cit., p. 310.

[227] ’AzÎzÎyeh, 10; Emergal, an Avshar village on the left, 12; TakhtalÎ, on the right across the river, 12.20; ?izil KhÂn, 1.35. (See Ramsay, op. cit., p. 298. It is perhaps Strabo’s Erpa “on the road to Melitene.”) Bazaar Euren, 2.25. Between ?izil KhÂn and Bazaar Euren there is a small khÂn with ruins near to it, among them a carved door jamb. Ekrek, 5.

[228] Ramsay, op. cit., p. 289, places Tsamandos at ’AzÎzÎyeh, but he had not seen Ma?mÛd GhÂzÎ when he wrote.

[229] The Armenians of this district are MuhÂjir, immigrants, no less than the Circassians, though their coming dates from an earlier time. They were forced out of northern Armenia in the tenth century by the Seljuks, who drove them southward into what was then still the Byzantine empire.

[230] Kavak was the name I heard given to the site of the church; Rott has published it under the name of the Panagia of Busluk Ferek (Keinasiatische DenkmÄler, p. 188). He has also published Tomarza, p. 183.

[231] In the low ground there are remains of a theatre, a fine bit of stone wall decorated with good mouldings, and part of a vaulted brick building, possibly a gymnasium. All these are upon the left bank of the stream. The temple upon the bluff was converted at an early date into a church, which has long since fallen into decay, though it has been patched up in recent times by the Armenians (Fig. 228). Along the edge of the bluff there are remains of a columned portico. In the ruined bazaar I saw a couple of beautiful funnel capitals, cracked and broken by fire. They should probably be dated in the early sixth century. At the entrance of the valley that leads up to the Kara Bel are the ruins of a small temple with a finely carved doorway (Fig. 223).

Mr. Hogarth sends me the following note:—

Miss Bell has submitted to me five inscriptions found on a temple site at Comana Capp. They are, she thinks, unpublished, and certainly were not seen by me on either of my visits to Comana in 1890 or 1891. Miss Bell sent me good photographs of nos. 1 and 2; but for the others, I have only her hand-copies to go upon.

No. 1 is a commonplace epitaph, intended to be hexametrical; but the necessary proper names would not accommodate themselves to the metre, and the versifier has had to leave ll. 1 and 3 partly prose. In l. 2 he or the lapicide has made the mistake of leaving the e before ?d unelided. The most interesting point in the inscription, the second name of the dedicator, is, unfortunately, obscured by a breakage of the surface. The lettering is very clear on the photograph except on the right edge.

No. 2 is broken top and right, and the names of the son and mother cannot be restored.

No. 3, the epitaph of a slave set up by his master, offers an instance of the distinction of slaves by the name of the master with a Roman gentile prefix. Either ???. or ????. is concealed in Miss Bell’s copy of l. 2. Another slave seems to have appropriated the grave afterwards for his wife, and added a note to that effect.

No. 4 is without points of interest. No. 5 adds to other Oriental names found at Comana Pharnaces and the name of his father, which, in Miss Bell’s copy, reads Giris.

1. Altar-stela with wreaths in relief on the front and sides. The inscription is in careful lettering of about the 4th cent. A.D. Words are in some cases divided by points. Square and round forms are used indifferently, and ligature is frequent. Worn badly on right edge:—

[Greek]

2. Altar-stela with wreath in relief below the inscription. Broken top and right top. Finely-cut lettering of 3rd cent. A.D.:—

[Greek]

?s?????t??: for the use of this epithet at Comana see J. H. S. xviii. p. 318, no. 29, and also no. 4 below.

3. Altar-stela:—

[Greek]

The lines 6-8 may conceal the name ?a??a borne by the wife of Aur. Heliodorus in an epitaph of Comana published by Waddington from copies by Clayton and Ramsay, Bull. Corr. Hell., vii. p. 137, no. 19.

4. On the rock inside tomb:—

[Greek]

5. On a small stone with rude pediment:—

[Greek]

[232] “Their houses are circular,” says Marco Polo of the Tartars of inner Asia, “and are made of wands covered with felts”: Yule’s edition, Vol. I. p. 252.

[233] MÂrdin, 6.30; YamachlÎ, to right, 7.30; SarÎ KhÂn, 8.45; Ispileh, to right, 10.30; Talas, 11.30.

[234] The plateau is here about 3,500 feet above sea level.

[235] It has been well published by Rott: Kleinasiatische DenkmÄler, p. 103.

[236] ’Ala ed Din reigned from 1219 to 1236, but the tomb is dated by an inscription in the year 1344.

[237] It was built in 1381-2 by the wife of ’Ala ed DÎn, Prince of ?aramÂn. See Sarre: DenkmÄler Persischer Baukunst, p. 135.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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