Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has attained and the facilities now available to the dyer, enable this to be produced more beautiful than ever, and naturally an increased demand for it as a dress fabric has developed.

Gloria is woven from the two fibres, wool and silk, of a fine texture to enable it to be used in the place of a silk fabric. Formerly it was usually woven with the wool and silk yarns already dyed, especially when a "shot" effect was to be produced, this being done by a twill weave of the fabric and by the use of yarns of two very different colours in the case of "shot" fabrics. By the introduction of dye-stuffs derived from coal tar the cloth is now dyed after being woven, care being taken to choose those which will dye the two fibres equally well when self-shades are wanted, or those which will dye one fibre better than the other, and thus allow a woven piece of gloria to be dyed of two different colours. As most dyers know, the most brilliant effects are obtained when the finished woven piece can be dyed. Then all the grease and dirt which has become attached to it during the operations of spinning the yarns and weaving the pieces can be removed before dyeing, thus leaving the fabric in a perfectly clean condition. Thus no after cleansing is required, whereas when the fibres are dyed in the yarn the goods must be cleansed after weaving to free them from dirt, and such cleaning has a somewhat deleterious effect upon the brilliancy of the colour of the finished fabric, more especially in the case of light colours.

Gloria may be in one colour only, a self-colour as it is called; this case is comparatively simple, the only care that is required being to select dyes which have an equal affinity for the two fibres or which give but slightly different shades. Still, some good effects are obtained when dyes are used which dye the silk and wool different colours but give the combined effect of a self-colour. Or the fibre may be purposely dyed in two different colours in some cases to give the "shot" effect. This is much more troublesome, but with a little care can be carried out with good results. The dyes available for dyeing gloria may be classified, according to their behaviour in regard to their dyeing of the two fibres, into three groups as follows:--

Group A.--Those which will dye the two fibres of equal shade.

Group B.--Those which will dye the wool at boiling heat more readily than the silk.

Group C.--Those which will dye the silk only in a cold bath.

Group A consists of those dyes which can be used in dyeing self-colours on gloria from acid baths. It includes Alkali Blue, Naphthylamine Blacks, Naphthol GreenB, Indian Yellow, Croceine AZ, Croceine Orange, OrangeR, Brilliant CroceineM, Rose Bengale, ThiocarmineR, Soluble Blue, Formyl Violet S4B, Acid Green, Croceine OrangeG, Carmoisin, Acid Violet 5B, Fast Acid Violet 10B, Fast Green Bluish, Rhodamine, Silk Blue, Victoria Black, Archil, Turmeric, Safranine, Auramine, Quinoline Yellow, Azoflavine, Victoria Blue and Bismarck Brown.

Group B comprises those dye-stuffs which in a boiling acid bath dye the wool deeper than the silks, in other words have more affinity for the wool than the silk, TropÆolineO, Acid Magenta, Indigo Extract, Phloxine, Naphthol Yellow, Orange GG, ScarletS, Azo RedA, Eosines, ThiocarmineR, Naphthol Black BB, New Victoria Black Blue, Erythrosine, and Roccelline.

The silk becomes tinted to a more or less extent when in such a bath, but often the colour is readily removed either by subsequent passage through boiling water or through hot soap liquor. A very good clearing can be effected by the use of a bath of acetate of ammonia. Naphthol Yellow, for instance, only imparts a very faint shade of yellow when thus dyed, and this is easily removed by boiling-water treatment.

Group C.--Those dye-stuffs which will dye the silk more readily in a cold bath than the wool. These comprise most of the basic dyes, such as ThioflavineT, Safranine, Brilliant Green, Methyl Violet, Magenta, New Methylene Blue, Bismarck Brown, Rose Bengale, Phloxine, Acid Greens, Formyl Violet S4B, Rhodamine, Solid Blue, etc.

Gloria may be dyed either by a one-bath or two-bath process, and either one or two colours, as may be required. In both cases advantage may be taken of the different affinities of the two fibres for the dye-stuffs used, as, for instance, the silk may be dyed brown, the wool olive by using a mixture of Acid Yellow, Indigo extract and OrangeG. Indigo extract, Cochineal, Acid Magenta, Picric acid, Naphthol Yellow, and Tartrazine dye the wool only at the boil.

The following recipes will serve to illustrate the foregoing remarks and show how this important fabric may be dyed:--

Deep Gold.--The dye-bath is made from 2lb. Indian Yellow, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid, dyed at the boil. In this and following recipes the quantities are for 100lb.

Orange.--The dye-bath is made with 2lb. Indian Yellow, 19lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2lb. Scarlet 3R, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2lb. sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2lb. Croceine Scarlet 3B, 2lb. sulphuric acid, and 10lb. Glauber's salt; by using the 5B Scarlet a bluer shade can be dyed. Azo Cochineal also dyes a fine scarlet on gloria.

Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 1lb. CarmoisinB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. The 7B Croceine Scarlet also dyes a fine crimson of a more fiery tone than the last, while 2-1/2lb. Azo FuchsineG dyes a bluer shade of crimson.

Rose.--A fine rose is obtained with 2lb. RhodamineB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and a little acetic acid. 1lb. Phloxine dyes a fine deep rose; the silk comes out a paler colour than the wool, but the general effect is good.

Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath from 1-1/2lb. Croceine AZ, 1/2lb. Indian Yellow, 1/4lb. Formyl Violet S4B, 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter the goods, work at the boil for an hour, then cool down to 120°F., enter an equal quantity of dye-stuff and work for an hour longer.

Pale Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 3lb. Azo Bordeaux, 10lb. Glauber's salt and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Black.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5lb. Naphthylamine BlackD, 1lb. Acid GreenB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid; work at the boil for twenty minutes, then allow to cool to 120° or 130°F., then work an hour longer. Another black can be dyed in a similar way from 5lb. Victoria BlackB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Violet.--Use 2lb. Acid Violet 5B, or 2lb. Formyl Violet S4B, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. Fast Acid Violet 10B gives a bluer shade than the above.

Green.--Make the dye-bath with 2lb. Acid Green GG, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. This gives a bright yellow shade of green; a bluer shade can be got from Acid Green 6B or Acid GreenB, while Fast Green Bluish gives very blue greens.

Coeruleum Blue.--Dye with 3/4lb. Silk Blue BES, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid; this gives a very fine bright blue.

Deep Indigo Blue.--Dye with 4-1/2lb. Solid BlueR, 2lb. ThiocarmineR paste, 10lb. Glauber's salt and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Deep Violet Brown.--Dye with 3lb. Croceine AZ, 1-1/4lb. Indian Yellow, 1-3/4lb. Formyl Violet S4B, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid for an hour at the boil, and for an hour at 120°F.

Blue Black.--Make the dye-bath with 5lb. New Victoria Blue Black, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. Another plan is to use 5lb. Naphthylamine Black 4B and 10lb. bisulphate of soda.

Dark Grey.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3lb. Naphthol Black 3B, 4lb. Naphthol GreenB, 1lb. Amaranth, 10lb. Glauber's salt, 8lb. copperas, and 3lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for an hour and then rinsing in water to which a little acetate of ammonia has been added. The silk is dyed grey and the wool a black.

Brown.--A fine yellow brown shot with lilac is obtained by first dyeing in a bath of 5lb. Naphthol Yellow, 10lb. Glauber's salt and 2lb. sulphuric acid. Wash in hot water, then dye with 2-1/2lb. Solid Blue PG, 1-1/2oz. Methyl Violet BO, and 5lb. acetic acid in the cold.

Wool, Orange; Silk, Pale Green.--Dye the wool with 1-1/2lb. Orange GG, 6oz. Naphthol GreenB, 2-1/2oz. Naphthol RedC, 10lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2lb. sulphuric acid; and the silk with 1/2lb. Milling Yellow and 1/2lb. Acid Green.

Wool, Black; Silk, Light Grey.--Dye in a bath with 5lb. Anthracene Acid Black ST, 4-1/2oz. Fast YellowS, 10lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. The silk is cleaned by boiling for ten minutes in a soap bath.

Wool, Bright Red; Silk, Blush Rose.--The gloria silk is dyed in a bath of 3lb. Naphthol RedO, 10lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. After dyeing, soap for ten minutes.

Wool, Black; Silk, Green.--Dye the wool in a bath containing 5lb. Anthracene Acid Black ST, 5oz. Fast YellowS, 2lb. oxalic acid, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 15lb. acetic acid. Work the goods in this at the boil for an hour, then lift, add 3/4lb. bichromate of potash, and boil for twenty minutes longer. Clean the silk by boiling in a bath of soap for twenty minutes, then dye in a cold bath containing 1lb. ThioflavineT and 1lb. Brilliant Green.

Wool, Dark Maroon; Silk, Pale Blue.--After the manner described in the first recipe, dye the wool with 1lb. Orange GG, 3lb. Naphthol GreenB, 2lb. Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 10lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. Dye the silk with 1-1/2lb. Pure Blue OT.

Wool, Violet; Silk, Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1lb. Acid Violet 4B, 9oz. Indigotine extra, 10lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. The dyeing is carried on at the boil until the bath is exhausted of colour, whereupon the goods are well rinsed in water. They are next soaped at 160°F. for ten minutes in a liquor containing 1/2oz. soap per gallon, then rinsed. Next a dye-bath is made with 1lb. Acid Green, 8oz. Milling YellowO, and 1lb. acetic acid, the goods being treated in this in the cold until the desired shade is obtained, then lifted, rinsed and dried.

Violet and Pink.--A fine effect of violet shot with pink is obtained by dyeing in a bath of 1-1/2lb. Indigo extract, 1/2lb. RhodamineB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Brown Olive and Green is dyed in a bath made with 1lb. Quinoline Yellow, 1lb. Azo FuchsineG, 1/4lb. Fast Green Bluish, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. By using about half the above quantities of dye-stuffs a drab effect shot with green can be obtained.

Crimson and Green.--The first bath is made from 4lb. Azo RedA and 10lb. bisulphate of soda, worked for an hour at the boil; then treat in a weak bath of acetate of ammonia; and dye the silk in a cold bath of 2oz. Solid Green Crystals, 1/4lb. ThioflavineT, and 5lb. acetic acid.

Violet and Pink.--Dye in a bath of 1-1/4lb. Indigo extract, 10lb. Glauber's salt and 2lb. sulphuric acid.

Brown and Pink.--This is dyed in a bath made from 1-1/4lb. Fast Yellow, 5oz. RhodamineB, 1/4lb. indigo extract, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb. sulphuric acid. The silk dyes a pale pink while the general effect is that of a fine fawn brown with a reddish shot effect.

Dark Green and Pale Crimson.--This is done in two baths, the first is made with 8lb. Naphthol GreenB, 10lb. Glauber's salt, 3lb. sulphuric acid, and 7lb. copperas, working at the boil; then treat with hot water and dye in a fresh bath with 6oz. Safranine Prima and 5lb. acetic acid in the cold. The combined effect of the two is that of a brown shot with green.

Orange and Green.--This gives a splendid shot effect and is dyed as follows. Work for an hour at the boil, for thirty minutes in a bath of boiling water, then enter into a cold bath of 5oz. ThioflavineT, 3oz. Brilliant Green, and 3lb. acetic acid; work for thirty minutes, or until shade is obtained.

Orange and Blue.--Use first dye-bath as in the last, then, after washing in hot water, dye in a bath of 2oz. New Methylene BlueN, and 3lb. acetic acid.

Silk, Sky Blue; Wool, Drab.--Make a dye-bath with 20lb. acetic acid, 3/4oz. Indigotine, 3oz. Fast Yellow extra and 2 oz. Azo FuchsineG. Work at the boil for one hour at 100°F., then pass into a bath of 3/4oz. Turquoise Blue BB, and 2lb. acetic acid, working for half an hour at 80°.

Silk, Pink; Wool, Pale Blue.--Make a dye-bath with 15lb. acetic acid and 4-1/2oz. Indigotine. Work at the boil for an hour, then pass into a bran bath as before; next enter into a dye-bath at 80° to 90° of 3/4oz. Brilliant Rhoduline RB, 1-1/2oz. Auramine II, and 2lb. acetic acid.

Silk, Green; Wool, Dark Crimson.--The first bath is made from 3lb. Azo FuchsineG, 1lb. Indian YellowG and 20lb. acetic acid; then follows the bran and the final dye-bath, which is made from 1-1/2oz. Imperial Green GI, and 2lb. acetic acid.

Silk, Orange; Wool, Black.--A dye-bath is made from 2lb. Indigotine, 2lb. Indian YellowG, 1/2lb. RhodamineG, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

Silk, Light Green; Wool, Dark Blue.--Make a dye-bath from 1/2lb. Azo FuchsineG, 2lb. Fast Light Green, and 20lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.

Silk, Yellow; Wool, Terra Cotta.--A dye-bath is made from 1-1/2oz. Indigotine, 3/4lb. Azo FuchsineG, 9oz. Indian YellowR, and 20lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.

Silk, Light Sea Green; Wool, Pale Sage.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2lb. Fast Yellow extra, 3oz. Azo FuchsineG, 1-1/2oz. Fast Green bluish, and 20lb. acetic acid. Work as in the last recipe.

Silk, Light Green; Wool, Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo FuchsineG, 2-1/2lb. Fast Yellow extra, 1/2lb. Fast Green bluish, and 20lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour.

Silk, Pale Blue; Wool, Crimson.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Azo CrimsonL and 20lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour, then pass into a bran bath for half an hour at 90°F., and into another bath containing 1/2lb. Turquoise BlueG, and 2lb. acetic acid, at 90°F., for half an hour; then wash and dry.

Silk, Light Drab; Wool, Lavender.--Make the first dye-bath from 3oz. Indigotine, 2oz. Azo FuchsineG, and 20lb. acetic acid. After working an hour at the boil, pass into a bran bath for half an hour, afterwards topping with 1-1/2oz. Bismarck BrownR and 2lb. acetic acid.