Wool is dyed in a variety of forms, raw, loose wool; partly manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver; spun fibres or yarns, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate the employment of different forms of machinery and different modes of handling, it is evident to the least unobservant that it would be quite impossible to subject slubbing or sliver to the same treatment as yarn or cloth, otherwise the slubbing would be destroyed and rendered valueless.

In the early days all dyeing was done by hand in the simplest possible contrivances, but during the last quarter of a century there has been a great development in the quantity of dyeing that has been done, and this has really necessitated the application of machinery, for hand work could not possibly cope with the amount of dyeing now done. Consequently there has been devised during the past two decades a great variety of machines for dyeing every description of textile fabrics, some have not been found a practical success for a variety of reasons and have gone out of use, others have been successful and are in use in dye-works.

Hand Dyeing.--Dyeing by hand is carried on in the simplest possible appliances, much depends upon whether the work can be done at the ordinary temperature or at the boil. Figure 10 shows round and oval tubs and a rectangular vat much in use in dye-houses. These are made of wood, but copper dye-vats are also made, these may be used for all kinds of material--loose fibre, yarns or cloth. In the case of loose fibre this is stirred about either with poles or with rakes, care being taken to turn every part over and over and open out the masses of fibre as much as possible in order to avoid matting or clotting together. In the case of yarns or skeins, these are hung on sticks resting on the edges of the tub or vat. These sticks are best made of hickory, but ash or beech or any hard wood that can be worked smooth and which does not swell much when treated with water may be used. The usual method of working is to hang the skein on the stick, spreading it out as much as possible, then immerse the yarn in the liquor, lift it up and down two or three times to fully wet out the yarn, then turn the yarn over on the stick and repeat the dipping processes, then allow to steep in the dye-liquor. This is done with all the batch of yarn that is to be dyed at a time. When all the yarn has been entered into the dye-bath, the first stickful is lifted out, the yarn turned over and re-entered in the dye-liquor; this operation is carried out with all the sticks of yarn until the wool has become dyed of the required depth. In the case of long rectangular vats it is customary for two men, one on each side of the vat, to turn the yarns, each man taking charge of the yarn which is nearest to him.

Woven goods may be dyed in the tub or vat, the pieces being drawn in and out by poles, but the results are not altogether satisfactory, and it is preferable to use machines for dyeing piece goods.

Plain tubs or vats, such as those shown in figure 10, are used for dyeing and otherwise treating goods in the cold, or at a lukewarm heat, when the supply of hot water can be drawn from a separate boiler. When, however, it is necessary to work at the boil, then the vat must be fitted with a steam coil. This is best laid along the bottom in a serpentine form. Above the pipe should be an open lattice-work bottom, which, while it permits the free circulation of boiling water in the vat, prevents the material being dyed from coming in contact with the steam pipe. This is important if uniform shades are to be dyed, for any excessive heating of any portion of the bath leads to stains being produced on the material in that part of the bath. Figure 11 shows a vat fitted with a steam pipe. That portion of the steam pipe which passes down at the end of the vat is in a small compartment boxed off from the main body of the vat, so that no part of the material which is being dyed can come in contact with it. A closed steam coil will, on the whole, give the best results, as then no weakening of the dye-liquor can take place through dilution by the condensation of the steam. Many dye-vats are, however, fitted with perforated, or as they are called, open steam coils, in which case there is, perhaps, better circulation of the liquor in the dye-vat, but as some of the steam must condense there is a little dilution of it.

Dyeing Machines.

Dye-tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely superseded by machines in which the handling or working of the materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a large number of dyeing machines invented, some of these have not been found to be very practical, and so they have gone out of use. Space will not admit of a detailed account of every kind of machine, but only of those which are in constant use in dye-works.

Dyeing Loose or Raw Wool and Cotton.--Few machines have been designed for this purpose, and about the only successful one is

Delahunty's Dyeing Machine.--This is illustrated in figure 12. It consists of a drum made of lattice work which can revolve inside an outer wooden casing. The interior of the revolving drum is fitted with hooks or fingers, whose action is to keep the material open. One segment of the drum is made to open so that the loose cotton or wool to be dyed can be inserted. By suitable gearing the drum can be revolved, and the dye-liquor, which is in the lower half of the wooden casing, penetrates through the lattice work of the drum, and dyes the material contained in it. The construction of the machine is well shown in the drawing, while the mode of working is obvious from it and the description just given. The machine is very successful, and well adapted for dyeing loose or raw wool and cotton. The material may be scoured, bleached, dyed or otherwise treated in this machine.

The Obermaier Machine, presently to be described, may also be used for dyeing loose cotton or wool.

Dyeing Slubbing, Sliver or Carded Wool.--It is found in practice that the dyeing of loose wool is not altogether satisfactory, the impurities they naturally contain interfere with the purity of the shade they will take. Then again the dyes and mordants used in dyeing them are found to have some action on the wire of the carding engine through which they are passed; at any rate, a card does not last as long when working dyed wools as when used on undyed cotton or wool fibres. Yet for the production of certain fancy yarns for weaving some special classes of fabrics it is desirable to dye the wool before it is spun into thread. The best plan is undoubtedly to dye the fibre after it has been carded and partly spun into what is known as slubbing, or sliver. All the impurities have been removed, the wool fibres are laid straight, and so it becomes much easier to dye. On the other hand, as it is necessary to keep the sliver or slubbing straight and level, no working about in the dye-liquors can be allowed to take place, and so such must be dyed in specially constructed machines, and one of the best of these is the

Obermaier Dyeing Machine, which is illustrated in figure 13.--In the Obermaier apparatus dye-vat, A, is placed a cage consisting of an inner perforated metal cylinder, C, and an outer perforated metal cylinder, D; between these two is placed the material to be dyed. C is in contact with the suction end of a centrifugal pump, P, the delivery end of which discharges into the dye-vat A. The working of the machine is as follows: the slubbing or sliver is placed in the space between C and D rather tightly, so that it will not move about. Then the inner cage is placed in the dye-vat as shown. The vat is filled with the dye-liquor, which can be heated up by a steam pipe. The pump is set in motion, the dye-liquor is drawn from A to C, and in so doing passes through the material packed in B and dyes it. The circulation of the liquor is carried on as long as experience shows to be necessary. The dye-liquor is run off, hot water is run in to wash the dyed material, and the pump is kept running for some time to ensure thorough rinsing, then the water is run off, and by keeping the pump running and air going through a certain amount of drying can be effected. This machine works very well, and with a little experience constant results can be obtained. The slubbing or sliver may be scoured, bleached, rinsed, dyed, washed, soaped, or otherwise treated without removing it from the machine, which is a most decided advantage.

Yarn Dyeing Machines.--In figure 14 is given an illustration of a machine for dyeing yarn in the hank form, made by Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. The illustration gives a very good idea of the machine. It consists of a wooden dye-vat, which can be heated by steam pipes in the usual way. Extending over the vat are a number of reels or bobbins, these are best made of wood or enamelled iron. These reels are in connection with suitable gearing, so that they can be revolved. There is also an arrangement by means of which the reels can be lifted bodily in and out of the dye-vat for the purpose of taking on and off the hanks of yarn. A reel will hold about 2lb. of yarn. The working of the machine is simple. The vat is filled with the requisite dye-liquor. The reels which are lifted out of the vat are then charged with the yarn, which has been previously wetted out. They are then set in revolution and dropped into the dye-vat, and kept there until it is seen that the yarn has acquired the desired shade. The reels are lifted out and the hanks removed when the machine is ready for another lot of yarn.

There are several makers of hank-dyeing machines of this type, and as a rule they work very well. The only source of trouble is a slight tendency for the yarn on one reel if hung loosely of becoming entangled with the yarn on other reels. This is to some extent obviated by hanging in the bottom of the hank a roller, which acts as a weight and keeps the yarn stretched and so prevents it flying about.

To some makes of these machines a hank wringer is attached.

Klauder-Weldon Hank-dyeing Machine.--This is illustrated in figure 15, which shows the latest form. It consists of a half-cylindrical dye-vat built of wood. On a central axis is built two discs or rod carriers, which can revolve in the dye-vat, the revolution being given by suitable gearing which is shown at the side of the machine. On the outer edge of the discs are clips for carrying rods on which one end of the hanks of yarn is hung, while the other end is placed on a similar rod carrier near the axle. The revolution of the discs carries the yarn through the dye-liquor contained in the lower semi-cylindrical part of the machine previously alluded to. At a certain point in every revolution of the discs the rods carrying the yarns are turned a little; this causes the yarn to move on the rods, and this motion helps to bring about greater evenness of dyeing. The most modern form of this machine is provided with an arrangement by means of which the whole batch of yarn can be lifted out of the dye-liquor. Arrangements are made by which from time to time fresh quantities of dyes can be added if required to bring up the dyed yarn to any desired shade. This machine works well and gives good results. Beyond the necessary labour in charging and discharging, and a little attention from time to time as the operation proceeds, to see if the dyeing is coming up to shade, the machine requires little attention.

Many other forms of hank-dyeing machine have been devised. There is Corron's, in which an ordinary rectangular dye-vat is used. Round this is a framework which carries a lifting and falling arrangement that travels to and fro along the vat. The hanks of yarn are hung on rods of a special construction designed to open them out in a manner as nearly approaching hand work as is possible. The machine works in this way. The lifting arrangement is at one end of the vat, the hanks are hung on the rods and placed in the vat. Then the lifter is set in motion and moves along the vat; as it does so it lifts up each rod full of yarn, turns it over, opening out the yarn in so doing, then it drops it again in the vat. When it has travelled to the end of the vat it returns, packing up the rods of yarn in so doing, and this motion is kept up until the dyeing is completed. This machine is very ingenious.

A type of machine which has been made by several makers consists of an ordinary rectangular dye-vat surrounded with a framework carrying a number of sets of endless chains, the links of which carry fingers. The hanks of yarn are hung on rods at one end of which is a tooth wheel that when in position fits into a rack on the side of the vat. The action of the machine is this, the hanks are hung on the rods and placed at the entrance end of the vat, by the moving of the chains it is carried along the vat and at the same time revolves, thus turning over the yarn, which hangs in the dye-liquor; when it reaches the opposite end of the vat, the rod full of yarn is lifted out, carried upwards and then towards the other end of the vat when it is again dropped into the dye-vat to go through the same cycle of movements which is continued until the yarn is properly dyed.

Piece Dyeing Machines.--Wherever it is possible it is far more preferable to dye textile fabrics in the form of woven pieces rather than in the yarn from which they are woven. During the process of weaving it is quite impossible to avoid the material getting dirty and somewhat greasy, and the operations of scouring necessary to remove this dirt and grease has an impairing action on the colour if dyed yarns have been used in weaving it. This is avoided when the pieces are woven first and dyed afterwards, and this can always be done when the cloths are dyed in one colour only. Of course when the goods are fancy goods containing several colours they have to be woven from dyed yarns.

The most common form of machine in which pieces are dyed is the jigger, commonly called the jig, this is shown in figure 16. It consists of a dye-vessel made long, sufficiently so to take the piece full width, wide at the top, narrow at the bottom. At the top on each side is placed a large winding roller on which the cloth is wound. At the bottom of the jig is placed a guide roller round which passes the cloth. In some makes of jigs there are two guide rollers at the bottom and one at the top as shown in the illustration, so that the cloth passes several times through the dye-liquor. In working the cloth is first wound on one of the rollers then threaded through the guide rollers and attached to the other winding roller. When this is done dye-liquor is run into the jig, and the gearing set in motion, and the cloth wound from the full on to the empty roller. With the object of keeping the piece tight a heavy press roller is arranged to bear on the cloth on the full roller. When all the cloth has passed from one roller to the other it is said to have been given "one end". The direction of motion is now changed and the cloth sent in the opposite direction through the jig and the piece has now received another "end". This alternation from one roller to the other is continued as long as is deemed necessary, much depending on the depth of colour which is being dyed, some pale shades may only take two or three ends, deeper shades may take more. When dyeing wool with acid colours which are all absorbed from the dye-liquor, or the bath is exhausted, it is a good plan to run the pieces several ends so as to ensure thorough fixation of the dye on the cloth.

It is not advisable in working these jigs to add the whole of the dye to the liquor at the commencement, but only a part of it, then when one end is given another portion of the dye may be added, such portions being always in the form of solution. Adding dyes in powder form inevitably leads to the production of colour specks on the finished goods. The reason for thus adding the dye-stuff in portions is that with some dyes the affinity for the fibre is so great that if all were added at once it would be absorbed before the cloth had been given one end, and, further, the cloth would be very deep at the front end while it would shade off to no colour at the other end. By adding the dye in portions this difficulty is overcome and more level shades are obtained, but it is met with in all cases of jigger dyeing. It is most common in dyeing wool with basic dyes like Magenta, Auramine, Methyl Violet or Brilliant Green, and with acid dyes like Acid Green, Formyl Violets, Azo Scarlet or Acid Yellow.

Some attempts have been made to make jiggers automatic in their reversing action, but they have not been successful owing to the greatly varying conditions of length of pieces, their thickness, etc., which have to be dyed, and it is next to impossible to make all allowances for such varying conditions.

In figure 17 is shown the jig in section, when the working of the machine can be more easily traced.

The Jig Wince or Wince Dye Beck.--This dyeing machine is very largely used, particularly in the dyeing of woollen cloths. It is made by many makers, and varies somewhat in form accordingly. Figures 18 to 21 show three forms by different makers. In any make the jig wince or wince dye beck consists of a large rectangular, or in some cases semi-cylindrical, dye-vat. Probably the best shape would be to have a vat with one straight side at the front, and one curved side at the back.

In some a small guide roller is fitted at the bottom, under which the pieces to be dyed pass. Steam pipes are provided for heating the dye-liquors. The beck should be fitted with a false bottom, made of wood, perforated with holes, or of wooden lattice work, and under which the steam pipes are placed. The object being to prevent the pieces from coming in contact with the steam pipes, and so preventing the production of stains. Above the dye-vat and towards the back is the wince, a revolving skeleton wheel, which draws the pieces out of the dye-vat at the front, and delivers them into it again at the back. The construction of this wince is well shown in the drawings. The wince will take the pieces full breadth, but often they are somewhat folded, and so several pieces, four, five or six, can be dealt with at one time. In this case a guide rail is provided in the front part of the machine. In this rail are pegs which serve to keep the pieces of cloth separate, and so prevent entanglements. The pieces are stitched end to end so as to form an endless band. When running through the vat they fall down in folds at the back part of the beck, and are drawn out from the bottom and up in the front. Each part thus remains for some time in the dye-liquor, during which it necessarily takes up the dye.

Figures 18 and 19 show forms of these wince dyeing machines, constructed of wood, and very largely used in the dyeing of woollen cloths. They are serviceable forms, and give very good results, being suitable for all dyes.

Figure 20 is a form of machine better adapted than the preceding for the dyeing of plush fabrics. In this kind of cloth it is important that the pile should not be interfered with in any way, and experience has shown that the winces of the form shown in figures 18 and 19 are rather apt to spoil the pile; further, of course, plush fabrics are dyed full breadth or open. In the wince now shown all troubles are avoided, and plush fabrics can be satisfactorily dyed in them.

Figure 21 shows a dye-bath built of iron, cased with copper, suitable for dyeing most colours on woollen cloths.

In the jig and wince dyeing machines the pieces necessarily are for a part of the time, longer in the case of the jigger than in that of the wince, out of the dye-liquor and exposed to the air. In the case of some dyes, indigo especially, this is not desirable, and yet it is advisable to run the cloth open for some time in the liquor so as to get thoroughly impregnated with the dye-liquor.

The so-called hawking machine, figure 22, is an illustration of Read Holliday's hawking machine, made by Messrs. Read Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. There is the dye-vat as usual; in this is suspended the drawing mechanism, whose construction is well shown in the drawing. This is a pair of rollers driven by suitable gearing, between which the cloth passes, and by which it is drawn through the machine. A small roller ensures the cloth properly leaving the large rollers, then there is a lattice-work arrangement over the pieces are drawn. In actual work the whole of this arrangement is below the surface of the dye-liquor in the vat. The piece to be dyed is threaded through the machine the ends stitched together, then the arrangement is lowered into the dye-vat and set in motion, whereby the cloth is drawn continuously in the open form through the dye-liquor, this being done as long as experience shows to be necessary. This hawking machine will be found useful in dyeing indigo on wool, in mordanting and dyeing wool with the Alizarine series of dyes.

of the dyes at once. It is much better to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too much of the colour and then would come up too deep in shade. Never give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the boil which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.

On Union Flannels.--In this class of goods it is important that the soft open feel of the goods be retained as much as possible, and for this purpose no class of dyes offers so many advantages as the direct colours. Only one bath being required, there is not the same amount of manipulation needed in the dyeing operation, hence there is less risk that the soft feel and woolly structure will be affected. As no mordants are needed there is nothing to impart a harsh feel to the fabrics.

On Dress Goods, Suitings and Coatings.--A large quantity of fabrics for gentlemen's suits, coats and cloths in general are now made from wool and cotton. Formerly the dyeing of these offered many difficulties before the application of the direct dyes was properly understood. Now, however the ease with which such dyes may be applied has given considerable impetus to this class of goods, and the trade has grown by leaps and bounds during recent years, and has been one cause of the great cheapening of clothes which has occurred in the same period. The dyeing of the goods with the direct colours offers very little difficulty, and only requires that a little attention be paid, particularly to goods in which the cotton either appears on the surface forming a design, or is spun or twisted together with the wool.

A good deal of shoddy is used in making the cheaper class of these goods, and it is quite natural that such "artificial wool" behaves differently from pure wool, not only with regard to its shade resulting from mixing and working together differently dyed waste wools, but also on account of its possessing a greater affinity for all kinds of dye-stuff than raw wool; this in consequence of the carbonisation and washing processes it has undergone, and also of the mordants which the material may retain from previous processes. Therefore (and especially in dyeing light shades on goods manufactured of shoddy) only a small quantity of soda or borax is to be added to the dye-bath and severe boiling is to be avoided. Wherever it is possible goods which are to be dyed in light shades should be made from the palest materials, and the dark qualities only used for goods which are to be dyed in dark shades.

This rule can, of course, not always be adhered to. Quite often a light and bright shade is to be dyed on comparatively dark material. This cannot be achieved by simply dyeing it, the goods must be stripped or bleached before dyeing. For this purpose either energetically reacting, oxidising reducing agents are applied. Of the former, bichromate of potassium is principally used. Boil the goods for half to three-quarters of an hour with 3 to 5 per cent. bichromate of potassium, 2 to 4 per cent. oxalic acid, and 3 to 5 per cent. sulphuric acid, wash in a fresh warm bath charged with soda in order to entirely neutralise the acid which has remained in the goods, or else the wool would be dyed too deep a shade. In some cases hydrosulphite has proved a useful reducing agent; it can be easily prepared from ordinary bisulphite of soda in the following manner. Add 10oz. ammonia (0·9 specific gravity) to a gallon of bisulphite of soda, 32°Tw.; then add slowly under a brisk stirring 10oz. zinc-dust, and let the entire mixture settle well, using only the clear solution. Treat the goods from fifteen to twenty minutes in a bath of 140°F., to which first add at the boil 3/4oz. acetic acid, 10°Tw., per gallon water, and then 4 to 6 gallons clear hydrosulphite solution per 100 gallons liquor. Then rinse very well and dye in the usual manner; avoiding, however, too high a temperature. As on this class of goods dark shades are mostly dyed, the goods need only very rarely be stripped.

Bright Yellow.--Use 2lb. ThioflavineS in a bath which contains 4lb. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye-liquor.

Good Yellow.--A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2lb. Diamine Gold, and 24lb. Diamine Fast YellowA in the same way as the last. Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine Gold dyes the wool better than the cotton the Diamine Yellow dyes the cotton the deepest shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got.

Pale Gold Yellow.--Use a dye-liquor containing 4lb. Glauber's salt in every 10 gallons, 2-1/2lb. Diamine Fast YellowA, 2oz. Indian YellowG, and 3-1/2oz. Indian YellowR. In this recipe we use in the two last dyes purely wool yellows, which dye the wool the same tint as the Fast Yellow A dyes the cotton.

Bright Yellow.--Use in the same way as the last 2-1/2lb Diamine Fast YellowB and 3oz. Indian YellowG.

Gold Orange.--Use as above 2lb. Diamine orangeG, 3-1/2 oz. Indian YellowR, and 1-1/2oz. Orange ENZ.

Deep Orange.--Use 2-1/2lb. Diamine Orange DC, 6-1/2oz. Orange ENZ, and 3-1/4oz. Indian YellowR.

Black.--Use 4-1/2lb. Union BlackS, 2oz. Diamine Fast YellowA, 5oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 3-1/4oz. Formyl Violet S4B, and 4lb. Glauber's salt in 10 gallons dye-liquor.

The goods are treated at the boil in this bath for one hour, Italian cloths have frequently if not always to pass through a finishing process to give them lustre. This treatment, especially with blues and blacks, has a tendency to affect the shades, reddening them. With some dye the colour comes back on the goods becoming cold again, but with others this is not the case. If desired the goods may be subjected after dyeing to a treatment with alum or, better, bichromate of potash. The goods after being dyed are rinsed and then passed into a bath at a temperature of 140°F., containing 3lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 to 2oz. sulphuric acid. After being chromed in this for about half an hour they are well washed. This chroming thoroughly fixes the colour on the cotton and it will not change while being finished, either by crabbing, steaming or hot pressing.

Gold Brown.--Use 1-1/2lb. Diamine Cutch, 6-1/2oz. Diamine Fast YellowB, 1oz. each Union Black, Naphthol Blue Black and Azo RedA.

Walnut Brown.--A fine shade is got with 1-1/4lb. Union BlackS, 1-1/4lb. Diamine BrownM, 3-1/4oz. Diamine Fast YellowB, 13oz. Indian YellowG, and 1oz. Naphthol Blue Black. After dyeing the goods should be chromed with 3lb. bichromate of potash and 2oz. sulphuric acid.

Dark Blue.--A good full shade is got with 2-1/4lb. Union BlackS, 9-1/2oz. Diamine Brilliant BlueG, 6-1/2oz. Alkaline Violet CA, and 1/4lb. Alkaline BlueF. Treatment in a bath of 1/2lb. alum and 1/2oz. soda at 130°F. will fix the colour against finishing.

Silver Grey.--A fine grey can be got from 1-3/4oz. Diamine Black BH, 1/2oz. Diamine OrangeB, 1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/2oz. Formyl Violet.

Navy Blue.--Use 1-1/4lb. Union BlackS, 3lb. Diamine Black BH, 1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 1/2lb. Formyl VioletS4B, and 2-1/2oz. Alkaline BlueB.

Red Plum.--Use a dye-bath containing 2-1/2lb. Oxydiamine VioletB and 3-1/4oz. Formyl Violet S4B.

Dark Green.--A fine shade can be dyed in a bath containing 3lb. Diamine GreenB and 1-1/2lb. Diamine Black HW.

Dark Slate.--Use 4lb. Diamine Black HW, 2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 3oz. Azo RedA.

Sage.--Use a dye-bath containing 4lb. Diamine BronzeG and 1-1/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Dark Brown.--A fine dark shade is got from 2-1/2lb. Diamine BrownV, and 2oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Peacock Green.--Use 3-3/4lb. Diamine Steel BlueL, 13oz. Diamine Fast YellowB, 14-1/2oz. ThiocarmineR, and 2-1/4oz. Indian YellowG in a bath of 4lb. Glauber's salt per gallon of dye-liquor.

Dark Sea Green.--Use 9oz. Diamine Steel BlueL, 3-3/4oz. Diamine Fast YellowB, 1/2oz. Diamine OrangeG, 1-1/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 3/4oz. Indian YellowG.

Dark Brown.--Use 1lb. Diamine OrangeB, 1lb. Diamine Fast YellowB, 13-3/4oz. Union BlackS, 1lb. Diamine BrownM, and 1/2lb. Indian YellowG. Fix in an alum bath after dyeing.

Dark Stone.--Use 1/2lb. Diamine OrangeB, 3-3/4oz. Union Black, 1/4oz. Diamine BordeauxB, 1-1/2oz. Azo RedA, and 3/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Black.--A very fine black can be got from 3-1/2lb. Oxydiamine Black RM, 2lb. Union BlackS, 9-1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black and 4oz. Formyl Violet S4B, chroming after dyeing as described above.

Dark Grey.--A fine bluish, shade of grey is got from 7oz. Diamine Black BH, 2-1/4oz. Diamine OrangeG, 2-1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1oz. Orange ENZ.

Dark Blue.--A fine shade is got by using 2lb. Diamine Black BH, 1/2lb. Diamine Black HW and 3-1/2oz. Alkaline Blue 6B.

Drab.--Use 3-1/2oz. Diamine OrangeB, 3/4oz. Union Black, 1/8oz. Diamine BordeauxB, 3/4oz. Azo RedA, and 1/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Plum.--Use 2-1/2lb. Diamine VioletN, 9-1/2oz. Union Black, and 1lb. Formyl Violet S4B.

Bright Yellow.--Use a dye-bath containing 4lb. ThioflavineS, 2lb. Naphthol YellowS, 10lb. Glauber's salt, and 2lb, acetic acid.

Pink.--Use 1/6oz. Diamine Rose BD, 1/4oz. Diamine ScarletB, 1/2oz. RhodamineB and 20lb. Glauber's salt.

Scarlet.--A fine shade is got from 1-1/2lb. Diamine ScarletB, 1/2oz. Diamine Red 5B and 20lb. Glauber's salt.

Orange.--Use a dye-bath containing 3-1/2lb. Diamine OrangeG, 14-1/2oz. TropÆoline OO, and 2-3/4oz. Orange extra.

Sky Blue.--Use 1-1/2oz. Diamine Sky Blue and 1-1/4oz. Alkaline BlueB.

Bright Blue.--A fine shade similar to that formerly known as Royal Blue is got by using 1-1/2lb. Diamine Brilliant BlueG, and 9-1/4oz. Alkaline Blue 6B.

Maroon.--Use 3lb. Diamine BordeauxB, 2lb. Diamine VioletN, and 3-1/4oz. Formyl Violet S4B.

Green.--A fine green similar in shade to that used for billiard-table cloth is got from 2lb. Diamine Fast YellowB, 2lb. Diamine Steel BlueL, 14-1/2oz. ThiocarmineR and 7-1/4 oz. Indian YellowG.

Gold Brown.--A fine brown is got from 3lb. Diamine OrangeB, 1/2lb. Union Black, 2-1/2oz. Diamine Brown, 3/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/2lb. Indian YellowG.

Navy Blue.--Use 3-1/4lb. Diamine Black BH, 1-1/2lb. Diamine Brilliant BlueG, and 1/2lb. Alkaline Blue.

Fawn Drab.--A fine shade is got by dyeing in a bath containing 6-3/4oz. Diamine OrangeB, 1-3/4lb. Union Black, 1/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black, 1/4oz. Diamine BordeauxB, and 1oz. Azo RedA.

In all these colours the dye-baths contain Glauber's salt at the rate of 4lb. per 10 gallons.

Dark Brown.--2-1/2lb. Diamine OrangeB, 13oz. Diamine BordeauxB, 1-1/2lb. Diamine Fast YellowB, 1-3/4lb. Union Black, and 3-1/2oz. Naphthol Black.

Drab.--1-3/4lb. Diamine Fast YellowR, 3-1/4oz. Diamine BordeauxB, 2-1/2oz. Union Black, 1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1-1/4oz. Indian YellowG.

Dark Blue.--Use in the dye-bath 4-1/4lb. Diamine Dark BlueB, 1-1/2lb. Diamine Brilliant BlueG, 3/4lb. Formyl Violet S4B, and 5oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Blue Black.--Use 3-1/4lb. Union BlackS, 1-1/2lb. Oxydiamine Black BM, 6-1/2oz. Naphthol Blue Black, and 1/4lb. Formyl violet S4B.

Dark Walnut.--2-3/4lb. Diamine BrownM, 1-1/2lb. Union BlackS, and 11-1/4oz. Indian YellowG.

Peacock Green.--Use in the dye-bath 3-1/2lb. Diamine Black HW, 5-1/6oz. Diamine Fast YellowB, 1-1/2lb. ThiocarmineR, and 1-1/6oz. Indian YellowG.

Slate Blue.--Use in the dye-bath 6-1/2oz. Diamine CatechineB, 4-3/4oz. Diamine OrangeB, 2-1/2oz. Union Black, 2-3/4oz. Orange ENZ, and 1-3/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Dark Sage.--A good shade is dyed with 1lb. Diamine OrangeB, 6-1/2oz. Union Black, 1-3/4oz. Diamine BrownM, 3-1/4oz. Azo RedA, and 2-1/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Navy Blue.--Use 2lb. Diamine Dark BlueB, 1-1/4lb. Lanacyl VioletB, and 7oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Bronze Green.--A good shade is dyed with 2lb. Diamine OrangeB, 5oz. Diamine BrownN, 3/4lb. Union BlackS, 1lb. Indian YellowG, and 2oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Black.--Use 2-1/2lb. Oxydiamine Black BM and 1-1/2lb. Naphthylamine Black 6B. Another recipe, 2-1/4lb. Oxydiamine Black BM, 1lb. Diamine BrownM, 1lb. Orange ENZ, and 2oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Dark Brown.--Use 1-1/2lb. Oxydiamine Black BM, 15-1/2oz. Diamine BrownM, 1-3/4lb. Indian YellowG, and 2-3/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black. Another combination, 1-1/2lb. Oxydiamine Black BM, 1-1/2lb. Orange ENZ, 1lb. Indian YellowG, and 5oz. Naphthol Blue Black.

Scarlet.--3lb. Benzopurpurine 4B, 3/4oz. Ponceau 3RB, and 1/2lb. CurcumineS.

Crimson.--1/2lb. Congo CorinthG, 2lb. Benzopurpurine 10B, and 1/2lb. CurcumineS.

Bright Blue.--2lb. Chicago Blue 6B, 3oz. Alkali Blue 6B, 1-1/2oz. Zambesi Blue RX. After dyeing, rinse and develop in a bath of 8oz. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons water, then rinse well.

Dark Blue.--2-1/2lb. Columbia Fast Blue 2G, 3oz. Sulphon AzurineD, 3oz. Alkali Blue 6B. After dyeing, rinse and develop in a bath of 8oz. sulphuric acid in 20 gallons of water.

Orange.--9oz. Congo BrownG, 1-1/2lb. Mikado Orange 4RO, and 1-1/2oz. MandarineG.

Dark Green.--2lb. Columbia Green, 1/2lb. Sulphon AzurineD, 1/2lb. Zambesi Blue BX, 1-1/2oz. CurcumineS.

Black.--4lb. Columbia Black FB, and 2lb. Wool Black 6B.

Pale Sage Green.--5oz. Zambesi BlackD, 3/4lb. ChrysophenineG, and 1-1/2lb. CurcumineS.

Slate.--1/2 lb. Zambesi BlackD, 3/4oz. Zambesi Blue RX, 1/2oz. Mikado Orange 4RO, and 1-1/2oz. Acid Violet 6B.

Dark Grey.--1lb. Columbia Black FB, 3oz. Zambesi BlackB, and 3/4oz. Sulphon AzurineD.

Drab.--1-1/2oz. Zambesi BlackD, 3/4oz. MandarineG extra, 1/4oz. Curcumine extra, and 3oz. Mikado Orange 4RO.

Brown.--5oz. Zambesi BlackD, 3/4oz. MandarineG extra, 1-1/2oz. Orange TA, and 2oz. Mikado Orange 4RO.

Nut Brown.--3/4lb. Congo BrownG, 1/4lb. Chicago Blue RW, and 3/4lb. Mikado Orange 4RO.

Dark Brown.--1lb. Congo BrownG, 1-1/2lb. Benzopurpurine 4B, 1-1/2lb. Zambesi BlackF, and 1/2lb. Wool Black 6B.

Stone.--1oz. Zambesi BlackD, 1/4oz. MandarineG, 1/4oz. Curcumine extra, and 1-1/4oz. Mikado Orange 4RO.

Slate Green.--3oz. Zambesi Black D, 1-1/2oz. Guinea GreenB.

Sage Brown.--1/2lb. Zambesi BlackD, 1-1/2oz. MandarineG extra, 3oz. Curcumine extra, 3oz. Acid Violet 6B, 6oz. Mikado Orange 4RO, and 4-1/2oz. CurcumineS.

Cornflower Blue.--3oz. Chicago Blue 4R, 1/4lb. Zambesi Blue RX, 1/4lb. Acid Violet 6B, and 3/4oz. Zambesi BrownG.

Dark Brown.--1-1/2lb. Brilliant OrangeG, 1/2lb. Orange TA, 1lb. Columbia Black FB, and 1/4lb. Wool Black 6B.

Dark Blue.--2lb. Chicago Blue RW, 1lb. Zambesi Blue RX, 1/2lb. Columbia Black FB, 10oz. Guinea GreenB, and 1/2lb. Guinea Violet 4B.

The Janus dyes may be used for the dyeing of half wool union fabrics. The best plan of working is to prepare a bath with 5lb. of sulphate of zinc. In this the goods are worked at the boil for five minutes, then there is added the dyes (previously dissolved in water), and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; then there is added 20lb. Glauber's salt and the working at the boil continued for one hour, at the end of which time the dye-bath will be fairly well exhausted of colour. The goods are now taken out and put into a fixing bath of sumac or tannin, in which they are treated for fifteen minutes. To this same bath there is next added tartar emetic and 1lb. sulphuric acid, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; then the bath is heated to 160°F., when the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried. In the recipes the quantities of dyes, sumac or tannin, and tartar emetic only are given, the other ingredients and processes are the same in all.

Dark Blue.--2-1/4lb. Janus Dark BlueB, and 1/2lb. Janus GreenB, in the dye-bath; 16lb. sumac extract and 2lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.

Blue Black.--3-1/2lb Janus BlackI and 1/3lb. Janus BlackII in the dye-bath, and 16lb. sumac extract and 2lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.

Dark Brown.--2-1/2lb. Janus BrownB, 1lb. Janus BlackI, 3-1/2oz. Janus YellowG, and 5oz. Janus RedB in the dye-bath, with 16lb. sumac extract and 2lb. tartar emetic in the fixing bath.

Drab.--1-1/2oz. Janus YellowR, 1/4oz. Janus RedB, 1oz. Janus BlueR, and 1/4oz. Janus Grey BB, in the dye-bath, and 4lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Grey.--5oz. Janus BlueR, 3-1/4oz. Janus GreyB, 1-1/2oz. Janus YellowR, and 1/4oz. Janus RedB in the dye-bath, with 4lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Nut Brown.--1lb. Janus BrownR, 8oz. Janus YellowR, and 1-1/2oz. Janus BlueB in the dye-bath, and 8lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Walnut Brown.--3lb. Janus BrownB, 1lb. Janus RedB, 1lb. Janus YellowR, and 1-1/4oz. Janus GreenB in the dye-bath, with 8lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Crimson.--2-1/2 lb. Janus RedB, and 8oz. Janus Claret RedB in the dye-bath, with 8lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Dark Green.--1-1/2lb. Janus Green B, 1lb. Janus YellowR, and 8oz. Janus GreyB in the dye-bath, with 4lb. sumac extract and 1-1/4lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Chestnut Brown.--1lb. Janus BrownR and 1lb. Janus YellowR in the dye-bath, and 8lb. sumac extract and 1lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually followed, and indeed is now to a great extent, is that known as Cross-dyeing. The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the required shade and undyed woollen threads; after weaving and cleansing the woollen part of the fabric was dyed with acid dyes such as Acid Magenta, Scarlet R, Acid Yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be taken that the dyes used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand acids, a by no means easy condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the direct dyes are fast to acids and therefore lend themselves more or less readily to cross-dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton reference may be made to the sections on dyeing with the direct colours in the companion volume to this book on Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics.

Shot Effects.--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods is where the cotton of a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to dye the two fibres in different colours and so produce a variety of shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only the wool in an acid bath and of many of the direct colours which will only dye the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines, becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda or sulphuric acid, the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free them from the acid and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an alkaline bath.

Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs.

If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on the liquor at 65° to 80°F., with the addition of 3-1/4oz. Glauber's salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise slight quantities of acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade.

Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The dye-stuffs of Group (2), which have been previously enumerated, do not stain the wool at all or only very slightly and are therefore the most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath and dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added the brightness of most effects is greatly increased.

Gold and Green.--First bath, 1lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4oz. Acid Green, 1-1/2oz. Orange GG, and 10lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4lb. Diamine OrangeG and 15lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm heat. Third bath at 120°F., 4oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4oz. Safranine.

Black and Blue.--First bath, 3-1/2lb. Naphthol Black 3B and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2lb. Diamine Sky Blue and 13lb. Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2oz. New Methylene BlueN; work as in the last recipe.

Green and Claret.--First bath, 3-1/2lb. Naphthol RedC and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2lb. Diamine Sky Blue FF, 1-1/4lb. ThioflavineS, and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

Gold Brown and Blue.--First bath, 2-1/2oz. Orange ENZ, 1-1/2oz. Orange GG, 1/4oz. Cyanole extra, and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 14oz. Diamine Sky Blue FF and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Dark Brown and Blue.--First bath, 1/2lb. Orange GG, 1-1/2 oz. Orange ENZ, 1-1/2oz. Cyanole extra and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 12oz. Diamine Sky Blue FF and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Green Blue.--First bath, 3lb. Orange GG, 1lb. Brilliant cochineal 4R, 1lb. Fast Acid Green BN, and 10lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1-3/4lb. Diamine Sky Blue FF, 3-1/4lb. ThioflavineS, and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for dyeing the cotton) should be used cold or at a lukewarm heat, and as strong as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature should be borne in mind and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the second and following lots of goods.

Blue and Gold Yellow.--3lb. Diamine OrangeG, 13oz. Naphthol BlueG, 14-1/2oz. Formyl Violet S4B, and 15lb. Glauber's salt; work at just under the boil.

Brown and Blue.---1lb. Diamine Steel BlueL, 9-1/2oz. Diamine Sky Blue, 1lb. Orange ENZ, 1lb. Indian YellowG, 1-3/4oz. Naphthol Blue Black and 15lb. Glauber's salt. Work at 170° to 180°F.

In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyes being added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs are used which will dye wool and not cotton from neutral baths and dyes which dye cotton better than wool. The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show themselves.

Grey and Orange.--First bath, 3oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4lb. Cyanole extra, 11lb. Azo RedA, and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5oz. Diamine Orange DC and 3oz. Diamine Fast YellowB.

Green and Red.--First bath, 2lb. Croceine AZ and 10lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1lb. Diamine Sky Blue FF, 1/2lb. ThioflavineS, and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

Brown and Violet.--First bath, 3/4lb. Orange extra, 3/4lb. Cyanole extra, and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5oz. Diamine Brilliant BlueG and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Yellow.--First bath, 7lb. Naphthol BlackB, 1/2lb. Fast YellowS, and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3lb. Diamine Fast YellowA and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Pink.--Black as above. Pink with Diamine Rose BD (see above).

Green and Buff.--First bath, 1/4lb. Orange extra, 3/4oz. Fast YellowS and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4lb. Diamine Sky Blue FF, 1/2lb. ThioflavineS, and 15lb. Glauber's salt.

Orange and Violet.--First bath, 9oz. Orange extra and 10lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4lb. Diamine VioletN and 10lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Blue.--First bath, Naphthol Black, as given above. Second bath, Diamine Sky Blue, as given above.

Black and Yellow.--Add first 1lb. Wool Black 6B and 10lb. Glauber's salt, then when the wool has been dyed add 2lb. CurcumineS to dye the cotton in the same bath.

Green and Red.--Dye the wool by using 3lb. Guinea Green B, 1/4lb. Curcumine extra, and 10lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4lb. Erika BN and 3/4lb. Congo CorinthG.

Orange and Blue.--Dye the wool first with 1-1/4lb. MandarineG, 2oz. Wool Black 6B, and 10lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2lb. Columbia BlueG.

Blue and Orange.--Dye the wool first with 3/4lb. Guinea VioletB, 3/4lb. Guinea GreenB, and 10lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2lb. Mikado Orange 4RO.

Green and Orange.--Dye the wool with 3lb. Guinea GreenB, 1/4lb. Curcumine extra and 10lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2lb. Mikado Orange 4RO.