This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.

The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may be used, if preferred.

The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all necessary holes shown in the drawing.

The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made 1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later. Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the body of the clown on the handle.

The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16" material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.

A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.

A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.

The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen, using India ink.

The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle.