This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the bags.

The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate 33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.

A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" × 20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.

The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4" bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side. Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.

A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.

The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2" from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2" from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.

After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more if necessary.

Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up well.

The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.