This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.

The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood—bass, pine or white wood is suitable—and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long, from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".

The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8" wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as shown.

The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.

The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.

The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head screws.

This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.

After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.

The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the colors applied to the circles.

First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all the circles again with ink.

Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed that the small outside circles are minus numbers.

Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.

Darts.

The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.

At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl. These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.

About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.

The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts lose their score.

One thousand points should constitute a game.

The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine file.