There are few places in this kingdom which combine to a greater degree the advantages of a salubrious and invigorating air, a fine and open sea, or more pleasing scenery than Cromer. The lover of nature, the student, or the invalid may frequent its shores with equal benefit, and with equal gratification. That it is not more known, or become a place of more general resort, is the result rather of circumstances, than of any deficiency in itself. True, indeed, it has not the metropolitan luxuries of Brighton, or the elegances of some of our more southern favourites to recommend it, neither does it offer any resources of gaiety for the amusement of its visitors; but nevertheless, it will never want admirers, so long as an unvitiated taste, a desire of scientific knowledge, or a wish for the renovation of health shall exist. Cromer is situated on the most north-easterly For some centuries the sea has continued to make considerable encroachments on this part of At very low tides, large masses of old wall are still to be seen nearly half a mile from the cliffs, which the fishermen call the Church Rock, from the supposition that they formed part of the old church at Shipden; but some have discredited the idea, on the ground that the constant action of the sea for so many ages must have destroyed all vestiges of the building. We have, however, seen a fragment of the wall which was lately obtained from the mass during a very low tide; and it is undoubtedly composed of the squared flints, such as are used in the present church of Cromer. The sea has continued to make rapid encroachments on the cliffs. Many large portions of land were washed away in 1611, previous to which the inhabitants had endeavoured, but fruitlessly, although In the morning of August 19, 1832, the Lighthouse hill again sustained a similar loss. This shoot was so considerable as to cause serious apprehension for the safety of the light-house itself; in consequence of which the master and elder Many years ago, the first house was lighted up with coals, which was not only an uncertain light, but also a fixed one, and was frequently mistaken. The labour and expense likewise attendant on this method were very great; for the light was kept up by means of a large bellows, which was incessantly worked like a blacksmith’s forge, and the coals, which article is always at a high price in Cromer, could be brought up the hill only by small The annual salary formerly paid by the Trinity House to the light-house-keeper, was fifty pounds, it is now one hundred pounds. When the writer of this article first visited Cromer, many years ago, the situation was held by two females, by whom the house was kept in such beautiful order, as to form of itself, an object of attraction and admiration. The floating-light off Mundesley, twelve miles to the east, may be distinctly seen in the night from the town, where the cliffs are not so lofty as those near the light-house. Within the last five years the appearance of Cromer, viewed from the beach, has been materially changed. Before that time the undefended cliff alone presented itself to the eye, and the town seemed to stand much further back. A large subscription-room, bath-house, and other edifices, were constructed on the beach and side of the cliff, and apparent distance was given to the whole. At present the jetty appears buried under the town, and the tower of the church to In the month of February, 1837, an extraordinary high tide occurred, accompanied with a furious gale from the north-west, which washed the whole of the above-mentioned edifices away, and even for a time threatened the destruction of the town and church. For two days, the 17th and 18th of February, the storm continued to rage. The day previous had been particularly fine, and the wind was gentle;—all had retired to rest in apparent security, fearless of the grand but capricious element which rolled near them. In the middle of the night, however, an alarm was given;—the tide was rising to an unprecedented height, threatening to engulph all within its reach. In a few moments all was terror and confusion; the cliff was crowded with spectators, every assistance was afforded to those immediately exposed to the fury of the mighty billows which poured in, and happily the loss of one life alone is to be deplored. This poor man was left in charge of Simons’s bathing-house; he was aroused, but whether he gave no heed to the admonition, or remained too long on the premises, is uncertain. He was borne away by the waters, together with the house, and his body was afterwards picked up at Bacton, near Mundesley, a distance of ten miles. Morning presented an awful spectacle, and From that time till the following year no steps were taken to protect the town from the increasing advance of the sea; but in the year 1838, a proposal was made to erect a safety wall for its defence. Accordingly the inhabitants subjected themselves to a rate in order to defray the expense, and the remainder of the sum estimated was raised by subscription. Those who had property on the cliff, and whose interest was thereby more particularly consulted, were rated at twenty shillings A breakwater has also been raised as a further security to the place, and on the stability of this much necessarily depends. Whilst this continues firm, there is little to be apprehended; if this were swept away, the breastwork which defends the cliff would be but a slight defence. The jetty, which formerly projected about seventy yards into the sea, was erected by subscription at the cost of fourteen hundred pounds, in 1822, after the old one had been destroyed by a furious storm. The high tide which we have just recorded did considerable injury likewise to the jetty, an injury which has not yet been entirely repaired. This is the fashionable resort in the evening, the company assembling here, some to enjoy the pure sea breezes, to watch the noble billows as they dash in graceful fury on the beach, the fine spectacle of the setting sun, or the mild splendour of the moon; others to meet their acquaintances, and a few, perhaps, whose discernment of the ridiculous is quicker than that of the sublime, for the exercise of their satirical talents. This promenade is certainly extremely agreeable. The beach having a fine firm sand and a level surface, affords excellent sea-bathing, and every accommodation is supplied for the purpose. It is also much frequented when the tide is out, both as a promenade and for a drive. Indeed, the sands present a very gay and animated scene at this time, while the jetty is deserted. The carriage road to the beach is not so good as might be desired; but there are several convenient approaches to the beach and jetty by means of zigzag footpaths cut in the cliff, and terminating by easy The coast itself is particularly dangerous, in consequence of the violent rising of the surf. No less than four or five lights are stationed between this place and Yarmouth, a distance of only thirty-six miles, to prevent vessels from running into Cromer Bay, which, by the by has received the singular appellation of the Devil’s Throat. Life-boats are kept in readiness to succour the distressed, and nothing is omitted for their preservation which either the skill or courage of the fisherman can effect, or the generous and benevolent encouragement of individuals execute. We would not offend the amiable and much respected lady to whom this latter observation particularly refers, and therefore we abstain from saying more. True benevolence shrinks from all display, and is unconscious of its own merit; but the name and the remembrance of that lady will live long in the hearts of numbers who have been benefited by Cromer enjoys but little trade, there being no convenient harbour where ships might ride in safety; what there is, consists in the exportation of corn, and importation of coals, tiles, oil-cakes, porter, &c. in vessels of from sixty to one hundred tons burthen. These lie upon the beach, where, at ebb tide, carts are drawn alongside to unlade them, and, when empty, they anchor at a little distance from the shore, and reload by means of boats. This method of lading and unlading is very expensive, as the carts, though drawn by four horses, owing to the steepness of the roads up the cliff, can only carry about half a ton at a time. In this manner they continue passing and repassing till the water has risen so high as to oblige them to desist, and wait till the tide has again receded. About two tides generally serve to complete the ship’s unloading. The sea at Cromer is almost always diversified by a change of moving objects; the trade from Newcastle, Sunderland, and the Baltic, keeping up a constant succession of vessels; to which may be added the regular appearance of the various steam-vessels which ply between London and Scotland, giving life and interest to the scene, The cliffs, in many parts, are very lofty, and picturesquely broken; and their base being, for the most part, composed of strong blue clay, or marl, are capable of making considerable resistance to the impetuous attacks of the sea; so that while the upper parts, which are chiefly of sandy materials, are brought down by accidental circumstances, the feet still remain, opposing their bold projections to the waves, and forming a happy relief to the level surface of the beach. This is no place to enter into any geological detail respecting these cliffs; but if the more scientific reader should desire information on this point, we would direct him to an admirable article in the “Philosophical Magazine,” from the pen of Mr. Lyell; Cromer church, which is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and was probably erected in the reign of Henry IV. is a very handsome structure, built with flint and freestone, and consists of a nave and two aisles: the tower, which is square, with an embattled top, is one hundred and fifty-nine feet in height. The entrance at the west end, which is a beautiful specimen of gothic architecture, is in ruins, as are also the north porch, and the chancel, of which little now remains. At one time indeed the other parts of the church were so much in ruins, that Divine service was performed in the tower. Before these galleries were built, the fishermen used to sit together in the middle aisle, and they formed an impressive and pleasing spectacle. Our best feelings, as well as our gratifications, are much enhanced by the association of ideas; and it was next to impossible to behold these persons, many of whom were venerable with age, and not be put in remembrance of Him whose the sea is, and who is so peculiarly the fisherman’s protector. These men, who do their “business in the great waters, and see the wonders of the Lord,” are themselves a testimony of his goodness. There is also something sacred in their occupation, which, added to the circumstances of their safety, thereby bringing them calmly to worship him in the haven where they would be, that arrests even the careless eye, and promotes devotion in the more serious. The church contains but very few monuments, and these belong principally to the Windham and Ditchell families. Indeed, with the exception of The following circumstance may seem trivial; but, as affording an instance of a providential escape, may not perhaps be unacceptable. At about a third part of the height of the staircase, which leads up to the steeple, is a door opening upon the leads of a small turret, communicating with the stairs, from which, some years ago, a boy of the name of Yaxley fell into the church-yard between some timbers, (which were laid there for the repairs of the church,) without receiving any other injury than a few slight bruises. He afterwards entered the navy, when, falling down the hold of the vessel to which he belonged, and receiving a severe hurt, he was discharged:—through the interest of the late Admiral Windham he obtained a pension, which he still lives to enjoy. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the King’s Book at nine pounds four shillings, and was augmented, from 1743 to 1834, with twelve hundred pounds of royal bounty. The Rev. W. Sharpe is the present incumbent. The living is in the gift of the Bishop of Ely, who is also appropriator of the great tithes, now leased to the Countess of Listowel. Cromer enjoys the advantage of a free-school, founded and endowed with ten pounds per annum Roger Bacon, a mariner of Cromer, is said to have discovered Iceland in the reign of Henry IV. and also to have taken prisoner the Prince of Scotland, James Stewart, who was sailing to France, in order to be educated there. A savings’-bank was established here in 1827. Petty-sessions are held every alternate Monday. The poor’s land was let, in 1786, for ten pounds a year—it now lets for fourteen guineas. This is equally divided between twenty-four widows, who do not receive relief from the parish. The market, which was held every Saturday, under letters patent of Henry IV. has been long discontinued; but the town is well supplied with provisions of all kinds, during the bathing season, persons from It also boasts of an annual fair which is held on Whit Monday. Cromer was first frequented as a watering-place about the year 1785, by a few families of retired habits, whose favourable reports of the place induced others to follow their example. The accommodations, however, were long adverse to the influx of visitors, and the want of a respectable inn, in particular, was greatly felt, and was a material check, not so much to the actual prosperity of the place, but to its very existence as a place of general resort. At length, a spirited individual, the present venerable Mr. Tucker, built the New Inn, which from that time to the present he has conducted with the greatest propriety, and with every regard to the comfort of those who have used his house. The character of Cromer thenceforth became altered, and various improvements followed. Indeed, the inhabitants of Cromer owe a large debt of gratitude to him, and if universal respect, and, it is to be hoped, There are several machines for sea-bathing, the hour for which is regulated by the tide. The bather, Mr. Jacob, who is a very steady man, and the descendant of a line of bathers, lives in Jetty Street. There are two bathing-houses, one on the cliff and the other by the side of it, on the beach: both of which are extremely well conducted, and kept by persons of respectability, by whom every requisite attention and civility are shown. Cromer now contains many comfortable private lodging-houses, as well as apartments for the accommodation of its visitors, as also some respectable inns. One of the best houses in Cromer has lately been converted into a boarding-house, under the name of the Hotel de Paris. A number of houses, called the Crescent, have been built within the last ten years, and are a great acquisition. Had the same spirit of speculation in building, &c., existed here as elsewhere, or the same encouragement, at least, been given to it, it is probable that long ere this, Cromer would have risen to considerable importance as a bathing-place and fashionable resort; nature having done everything for it that might favour such a result. It has, however, been asserted, and perhaps with truth, that this spirit of improvement has been discountenanced on the ground, that the moral The inhabitants, almost universally speaking, are extremely civil and well-behaved, respectable in themselves, and respectful towards others; simple in their manners, and free from that spirit of extortion which is but too commonly the fault of those who have only a short season to enable them to meet many exigences, and who have only a partial interest in those they serve. The walks, drives, &c., round Cromer are exceedingly beautiful, affording alike to the geologist, botanist, and mineralogist, abundant materials Wild flowers are to be met with here in great beauty and luxuriance, some of them sufficiently rare to induce a long and health-giving walk in search of them. The sea-weeds, or algÆ, are those which are generally found on our coasts, consisting of the great strap-wort, (Laminaria;) Bladder-wort, (Fucus vesiculocus;) Serrated Bladder-wort, (Fucus serratus;) the beautiful crimson Plocamium coccineum, the Ulva latissina, &c. All these, when cast on the beach, are carefully collected in heaps, and serve as manure to the lands. Jet and amber are found here in the winter. Jasper of all kinds, cornelian, aqui marine, and agates of every description, some of which are extremely beautiful, may be picked up on the beach. Many of the common pebbles, also, are remarkably handsome, and take a fine polish. The youthful student of mineralogy may also add to his collection specimens of micaceous schist, trapstone, porphyry, basalt, &c. &c. Shells, We give no guide to the walks, they are all easily found, and there is a pleasure in making rambles for ourselves where every part of the country invites us to explore it. The best view of the town, however, is from a short distance on the Runton road. Varley, so well known as an artist, has a very pleasing drawing, taken from the spot to which we allude. The woods round Cromer Hall are a beautiful object from every direction. The Hall itself is a handsome mansion, built in the Gothic style, with a centre and two wings. It was commenced in 1827, by George Thomas Windham, Esq., but was burnt down, before it was finished, in 1829. It was rebuilt, and is now occupied by Henry Baring, Esq., brother of Lord Ashburton, who married Miss Cecilia Windham, another of the daughters of Admiral Windham. The following gentlemen also possess, and occasionally inhabit handsome houses in or near the town. H. Birkbeck, Esq., Sir Jacob Astley, now The season for Cromer is usually reckoned from the beginning of June till the middle or end of October. The place itself is never in such beauty as in the autumn, nor is its sea or the air more invigorating at any time than in the month of October. A mail-coach arrives daily from Norwich at half-past twelve, and returns at half-past one o’clock. Letters, however, must be received at one o’clock, at which time the post-office closes; on payment of a penny a letter will be forwarded the same day. Phaetons, sociables, and also saddle-horses may be had of Mr. Thomas Brown. There are subscription reading-rooms, where the London and Provincial papers are taken in daily, kept by Mr. Simons; and also a circulating-library, kept by Mrs. Leak. Carriers go once or twice a week to Norwich, Lynn, and other places in the neighbourhood. |