The drives about Cromer are far more agreeable than persons have generally been led to suppose. The appearance of the country is picturesque and diversified; the roads themselves are good, and the sea, which is never long concealed from the view, forms at all times a beautiful object, sometimes appearing in wide expanse before us, sometimes seen only through an opening in the woods or over a rich valley, and at others breaking suddenly upon the eye, yet ever harmonizing most delightfully with the general features of the landscape. We do not usually associate the idea of rich foliage with the sea, but in this respect Cromer has a great advantage over most places on the coast, certainly over those on the eastern and northern. The soil, indeed, seems well suited to the growth of trees, many of which attain a very considerable size, and may vie in luxuriance of foliage as in height with those of more inland situations. The oak, Spanish chestnut, and beech, in particular flourish here, and by their beauty afford a constant theme of admiration.

There is no drive, however, prettier than that to the village and hall of Felbrigg, the seat and property of William Howe Windham, Esq.Felbrigg is three miles distant from Cromer, and is delightfully situated in the bosom of extensive and venerable woods. Almost as soon as you have entered the park, the tower of the church is seen on the left, rising in a most picturesque manner above the lofty trees which encircle it, and as the hall is approached, the drive continues between trees of the most striking beauty; indeed, the beech-trees are esteemed as some of the most remarkable in the kingdom, and are of an extraordinary size and circumference. The hall is a large and handsome mansion, built in the Elizabethan style, on a commanding eminence, and stands in a park comprising about two hundred acres of land. Considerable additions have been made to it at different periods, the greater part of which are in a style corresponding with the ancient south front. It contains many of the works of the most eminent painters, particularly of Rembrandt, Bergham, and Vandersvelt. Among the best paintings may be enumerated, a Usurer, and the Portrait of an Old Woman, by Rembrandt, Cows Stalled, by Sagtleven, Scheveling Market, and a small Landscape, by Paul Brill. The library comprises a large collection of valuable books and prints.

The stables, built in the same style as the Hall, were erected by the late Admiral Windham in 1825.

On the skirts of the park, on a lofty eminence, stood formerly the cottage, mistaken by some for the rectory-house: this has been lately pulled down, and the present rector lives at Metton, which is consolidated with Felbrigg,—the rectory-house. About a quarter of a mile south-east of the Hall, surrounded by trees, is the church. This is a handsome edifice, and contains several monuments to the Felbrigg and Windham families. On a large marble slab is a very fine brass, representing the figure, in complete armour, of Sir Simon de Felbrigg, who lived in the reign of Henry VI. The inspection of this alone would deserve a drive or a walk [26a] to Felbrigg, for a more perfect specimen of the kind is rarely to be seen.

On the south side of the altar is a beautiful monument, with a fine bust by Nollekins, of the late Right Honourable William Windham, whose lamented death was caused by an injury he received in his endeavours to save the library of his friend Mr. F. North, when his house in Berkeley-square was on fire. An operation had been recommended, and to this he submitted; but, as it proved, without success. This accomplished and amiable man died in the year 1810. Leaving no issue, his estates descended to his half-brother, the late Admiral Lukin, who assumed the name of Windham. [26b]The church at Felbrigg, like most others in this neighbourhood, is shorn of some of its honours. There is no vestry, although the ruins of one remain, and the entrance through the north porch is closed up, and the porch itself serves as a shelter to the sheep, which are turned into the churchyard. We regret the circumstance, as it appears to us a desecration of a building in which God has allowed His name to be put; and when we look “on this picture and on that,”—the handsome mansion with all its comforts, and the house of God, as also the last resting-place of the former owners of that mansion—we would not, where there is so much to admire and so little to lament, have a blade of grass grow irregularly on the one nor a stone left unevenly on the other.

The manor of Felbrigg was purchased by Lord Scales, of the executors of Sir Simon Felbrigg. He afterwards sold it to John Windham, Esq., when a curious circumstance took place, which does not speak well for the gallantry of the times, or at least for that of the party most concerned in it. Mr. Windham being absent, Sir John Felbrigg, who had set up an hereditary claim to the estate, entered the Hall, from which he forcibly dragged out Mrs. Windham, himself taking possession of the mansion. However, he subsequently relinquished his claim for the payment of two hundred marks.

The park, from the unevenness of the ground, rising and falling gently into hills and vales, the richness of the woods, and the manner in which it has been laid out, is extremely beautiful. The drive lies exactly through it, passing close by the house. [28] There is also another way of approaching it, which is through the village and the new lodge-gate at the east; and this also is very beautiful.

On leaving the park, two roads present themselves, one on the right hand, which leads through a very shady lane, the extremity of which is called the Lion’s Mouth, into the Holt-road, by which you may return to Cromer direct; or if the desire be to lengthen the drive, the road may be taken across the heath, to Sherringham, Beeston, or Runton, where some of the most delightful prospects that wild scenery can afford will be successively presented to the eye. The descent to each of the former villages is most striking and romantic; and but one regret will arise, namely, that the roads are not well calculated for a carriage, being exceedingly sandy, and the ruts very deep. There is not, however, the slightest fear for those on horseback, nor indeed for those in a carriage, if attended by any one accustomed to the road, [29a] and certainly no one should leave Cromer in ignorance of the beauties which here offer themselves.

Pic-nic parties are frequently formed to a valley on the right of the road, over the heath, which can be approached only on foot, or on horseback. A spot is also shown on the top of the heath, which by some is stated to have been a Roman encampment, but it is much more probable the site of an ancient beacon.

If on leaving the park-gate the road in front be taken, (and which is most proper for a carriage,) the church of Aylmerton [29b] will be passed, when turning immediately to the right, it will lead to the Holt-road, only a little higher than the entrance from the Lion’s Mouth. The drive will consist in that case, of about six miles,—if the road across the hills be taken, of seven.