CHAPTER PAGE

Introduction vii

Foreword xi

I. Outlying Japan 1

II. Historic Kyoto 23

III. First Days at the Embassy 40

IV. Court Functions 64

V. Life in Tokyo 90

VI. The Growing Empire 112

VII. A Year of Festivals 136

VIII. Cults and Shrines 164

IX. New Light for Old 188

X. Prose, Poetry and Plays 214

XI. Amusements 245

XII. Bear-hunting among the Ainus 274

XIII. Motoring and Cruising 293

XIV. Flowers, Indoors and Out 326

XV. The Artist's Japan 350

XVI. Sayonara Dai Nippon 375

Bibliography 383

Index 385