FEASTS.

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There is a wide-spread impression that the Livery Guilds exist principally for the purpose of feasting, and there are unscrupulous persons who do not hesitate to affirm that the Courts of the Companies act as fraudulent trustees, and are consenting parties to the malversation of trust and charity property, eating up money which it is audaciously pretended belongs to the “people of London.”

These statements have been assiduously put forth by a certain class of politicians whose acquaintance with the true details of the case must be absolutely nil, and who it is but reasonable to suppose, are willing to assume that the gentlemen who manage the affairs of the Companies are in the habit of acting as their traducers would do, had they but the opportunity.

To any one conversant with the history and management of the Livery Guilds, these assertions are known to be false. Here and there, as in every concern in life, improprieties and errors in judgment may have occurred, but it is confidently asserted, and capable of proof, that no charitable or trust funds suffer from feasting; indeed, on the contrary, the practice has obtained for centuries, with but few exceptions, for the members of the guilds to themselves supply the funds which are spent upon their entertainment, and for the surplus accumulations of these funds to be applied to the augmentation of charities and trusts. It has certainly been so in the Barber-Surgeons’ Company, and for a long period the calls upon the Livery for feasting purposes (when the custom was to nominate Stewards in rotation) were a severe strain upon the members, and occasioned great irritation and ill-feeling.

The earliest practice in the Companies would appear to be that the Livery and their wives attending the feasts, paid a stipulated sum per head, and we know this by our records to have been so in our Company long before the time of Richard II. This custom was altered in later times, and we find that certain appointed entertainments were given on fixed days, to which all members were invited, and which were paid for by fines laid down upon admission to the freedom, and further fines on going on to the Livery and Court. In addition to this, each Liveryman had, in his turn, to serve “the office of Steward,” that is, to join with four or five others in providing the costs of certain dinners.282

The fees on admission into the Companies are greatly in excess of the ancient ones, and it is mainly from this source of revenue that the expenses of the feasts are now defrayed. It is so in the Barbers’ Company, but, if at any time these funds have temporarily been found insufficient for the purpose, they have been supplemented from a property, which is in no sense a Charity Estate, or subject to any trust whatsoever.

There have been and are, good men of business on the Courts, and by prudent investments of surplus funds derived from fees, fines, etc., a property has been created, which is exclusively their very own to deal with as they please. We have, amongst many others, the opinion of Lord Chancellor Selborne very decisively to this effect, and also one, which by the traducers of the Companies ought to be respected, for it is that of Sir Horace Davey, Q.C., who was consulted by the Livery Companies’ Commission—a Commission notoriously hostile to the guilds. Sir H. Davey stated that they would “not be justified in recommending that the corporate property of the Companies should be taken from them by the State.” He further reported that, such an act “would be an act of confiscation, and would not unreasonably shake the confidence of the owners of property in the security of the rights of property. It must be remembered that the Estates of these Companies have been recognised, and held by the Courts of Law, to be as much their property with a full right of disposition, as the property of individuals.” Truly, the Commissioners must have said to their legal adviser as Balak of old said to Baalam, “I took thee to curse mine enemies, and behold thou hast blessed them altogether!”

It is a pleasing characteristic of all true Englishmen that they love to meet together around a festive board; while their hospitality in inviting their friends, or the eminent and great in all sections of society to partake with them has happily not gone out of fashion, and, spite of the sour critics of the guilds, we fervently trust that it never may.

1388. In the return to a writ, 12th Richard II, the Masters of the Barbers certified, amongst other matters, that it was their practice “once a year to assemble to feast,” and that they had an ordinance by which none of the brotherhood were to pay more than 14d. each towards the feast.

10th May, 1435. Among the Ordinances of the Surgeons was one that each member was to “paie ?eerli to the dyner of the craft that is to seie oonys a?eer on the dai of Seint luke ech man lich mich whethir he be p?sent or absent,” i.e., once a year on St. Luke’s day each man was to pay like much whether present or absent.

28th September, 1503. It was ordained that every member attending the dinner the day on which the Wardens were presented to the Lord Mayor was to pay 20d., and if he brought his wife with him, then 2s.

The Barber-Surgeons from the earliest times appear to have entertained the ladies at certain feasts, and their unique toast “The Good Wives, Merry Maids and Buxom Widows of the Worshipful Company of Barbers” is traditionally said to have had its origin in Elizabeth’s time.

14th May, 1530. The following is amongst the ordinances signed by Sir Thomas More at this date—

And where of olde Custume yerely upon the Sondaye next ensuyng the ffeaste of Seynt Bartholomew the appostell283 a dyner is kept and provyded for theym of the lyvery of the said Company in their Comen halle called Barbors hale And on the daye of saynt Cosme & Damian284 yf it be not on the saterday a dyn? for them of the same compani owt of the lyverey It is ordeyned and enacted that ev?y man that hathe been upper maister or upper Gov?nor of the said Company shall paye at and for the same dyner xijd for hymselff and viijd for his wyffe yff she come. And ev?y other man beying of the lyverey of the same Company shall paye in likewyse for hym selffe viijd and for his wyffe yff she come iiijd. Provided alwaye that the maisters or Gov?nors of the said Company for the tyme beyng shall paye nothing for their wyff? comyng to the dyner for that yere fforasmoche as their Wyff? must of necessitte be theire to helpe that ev?y thyng theire be sett in ordre. And that ev?y man of the said Company beyng owt of the lyverey shall pay at and for his dyner on the said morowe viijd and for his wyffe yff she come iiijd.

8th July, 1552. The earliest entry in the Court Minutes on this subject is a doleful one, for it was ordered “That there shalbe no dynner kept this yere.”

19th September, 1552. William Bette was appointed “Cooke for the Hall,” and Steven Reede the “Butler.” John Edwards (a Freeman) was to supply the flowers on the feast days.

28th July, 1555. It was ordered that the Masters should have a yearly allowance of £7 for the Election dinner, and that none should be at the dinner but Liverymen.

22nd July, 1556. This allowance was increased to £13 6s. 8d.

20th February, 1567. Henry Smith, yeoman to Lord Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, was admitted to the freedom, and because he had been frankly and freely admitted to the freedom of the City at the suit of the Duke of Norfolk, the Marquess of Northampton and the Earl of Leicester, he paid nothing but 3s. 4d., and 4d. for entering his name—

but the same daye the saide Henry Smythe gave the Mr & gov?norrs and assystent? a dynar at his owne p?pr coste & charges franckely and gratefully and also he hath forder more p?mysed and graunted to geve one boock285 of season to serve at the dynar upon the daye of the Electyon.

28th July, 1593. No greate dyner was agreed upon but a smale repast wth the allowance of xls and nether wemen nor children to come to or hall upon the daie of the newe ellec~ion.

25th August, 1600. There having been abuses at the feasts, an order was made for their reformation which stated—

that the bodye of this Company hath susteyned much disparagement by reason that some of the livery and others noe white at all respectinge the worshipp of this Company have not onely by themselves but alsoe by their servants and apprentices disfurnished the tables att ffeastes whereat they have sitten to pleasure their private frendes contrary to all modestie and good government. Doe therefore order for reformac?on thereof by the aucthoritye aforesaid That noe p?son of the Lyvery of this Companye beinge not of the Assistaunce of the same, shall not att any tyme hereafter suffer any of his children frendes servants or apprentices to staye or attende uppon him or his wiefe att any ffeaste to be kepte in the saide Comon Hall [under a penalty of 6s. 8d.].

An order was also made that no Assistant should have more than one servant or apprentice to attend upon him and his wife at any feast.

21st January, 1601. Whereas by the death of Robert Gray late Cooke to this Company the house was unfurnished of a Cooke to serve the said mistery And therefore divers Cookes became this daie shewters to this Courte for the place of the said Robert Gray beinge then voyd, yet notwithstandinge forasmuch as Margaret Grey wiefe to the said Robert Grey became an humble Suter to the said Courte for the same place, it was ordered by the whole consente of this Courte That the said Margeret Grey be admitted Cooke to this Company duringe the tyme she shall well and honestlie and sufficientlie behave her selfe therin And she to receave such fee and salary therefore as at any tyme heretofore hath beene graunted to the said Robert Grey Provided allwaies that she finde all vessells belongeinge to a Cooke And that she execute the said place by a sufficient deputy beinge such a p?sonn as the Mrs of this Company for the tyme beinge shall like well of and shall thinke fitt.

Margery, however, does not seem to have “honestlie and sufficientlie behaved her selfe,” for as appears by an entry—

6th May, 1602. This daye Margery Grey late wyef to Robert Grey was dismissed from being any more Coocke to this Company for speciall causes to the Mrs best knowen.

The Plague was raging severely in London in 1603, and the following precept was addressed to the Company, who however seem to have disregarded it, as the Election and Audit dinners were held this year. It is only fair, however, to state that the Court disbursed considerable sums of money amongst the poor stricken people.

13th April, 1603. By the Maior.

To The Mr and Wardens
of the Company of
Barbor Surgeons.

Whereas I and my Breth?n th?aldr?n duely consideringe wth our se?e had, the present infecc?on of this Cittie liberties and Suburbs & the greate multitud of poore people wch by reason of the said infecc?on have theire howsees shut upp and restrayned as well from goeinge abroad as theire daylie trads and labors wherewth theie were accustomed to mayntaine themselves theire wieves and families and doe at this p?sent by reason thereof endure greate wante and extremities Have thought fitt that all publique feastinge and com~en dinners at every the severill Halles and Com?n metings of corporac?on and Companies wthin this Cittie shall duringe the tyme of gods visitac?on amog~e us be wholely forborne and left of. And that one third parte of the chardge and expenses intended to be bestowed and spent uppon the said feastinges and dinners shalbe whoelie bestowed and geven for and towardes the reliefe of the most miserable poore and needie p?sons whose howse it shall please almighty god to visit Theis therefore in all xp~ian Charitie shalbe to praie and desire you yt you take p?nte order that from hencefort & duringe this p?nte infecc?on you wholely forbeare to keape any Com?n feastinge or dinners at youre Hall orells wheare for the like purposes And that you take pn?te order wth the Wardens of youre Companye and all such other of youre Company as should be at any chardge or yeald any contra?n286 to any Com?n feastes and Dinners for youre Companie duringe the same tyme to paie and contrabute one thirde parte thereof in readie money to some one honest and discrete person of your Companie whom you shall appoynte to receave the said some of money and to paie it ov? to one Robert fflecton Groc? noiÃted and appoynted by mee & my Breth?n the aldr?n to be receaved from the Companies of such somes of money. All wch somes of money shalbe from tyme to tyme wholelie and truelie distributed by order of mee and my Bretheren the aldr?n amongst the most nedie and poore infected p?sons Yeoven at Guildhall this thirteenth daie of Aprill 1603.

Sebrightt.

6th January, 1609. This daye it is ordered that none of the officers wyves shall at any tyme hereafter followe the Mrs to places where they dyne wthout the Mrs consent? uppon payne of the Mrs displeasures.

1609. The dinners were usually held on Election and Audit days, on Lord Mayor’s day, and after all public dissections, besides Committee dinners (which usually were at taverns), and this year it was ordered that a dinner was to be held on “Gunpowder Day.”

21st August, 1609. This day it was ordered that from henceforth all such as are of the Livery should give toward? the charge of the musicke on the Election day vjd a peice which they then begun and confirmed.

The reason of the next order was, that in consequence of the poverty of the Company at this time, the usual allowance of £8 made by the Court towards the Mayor’s feast, could not be granted.

2nd October, 1610. At this Court Richard Cade & Richard Coop? whoe are appoynted for Steward? of the Mayors ffeast are contented at theire owne chardg? to provide and make the same ffeast as fully as form?ly yt hath been, only this their provision for their quantitie of their messes are not to be soe many for that noe wyves nor guest? are to be bydden or brought to the same ffeast.

18th September, 1611. Att this Court Sebright the Cook is dismissed from his place of beinge Cook to this howse as well for that he did dresse their last dynner very badlie as for his ill usage in speeches toward? the maisters wyves and for dyv?se other abuses by him heretofore committed.

2nd July, 1612. At this Court our Mr & Mr Warden Johnson moving this Court that the Barbors as well as the Surgeons might be bedden to the dynn?s that are keept at the examinac?on of surgeons whereupon it was at this Court ordered & agreed that as many of the Auntient Mrs & gov?nors being barbors should & shalbe bidde unto every such dynner as there shalbe Surgeons beinge examiners at ev?y such dynner.

21st January, 1613. It was ordered that the Master and Wardens, with four of the Ancient Masters, should for the “worship & credytt of this Company,” yearly go and visit the Lord Mayor at dinner, and that 20s. each should be allowed them for their “charges” of the same. This allowance of 20s. each was probably given to some officer of the Lord Mayor to secure his favour towards the Company.

6th February, 1613. An order was made that at the dinner after any private anatomy, any of the Livery, either Barbers or Surgeons, might come thereto on payment of 12d. each.

16th September, 1613. This daie it is thought fitt & ordered that the widdowes of this company wch doe paie their quarterage shalbe bidden to the ffeast? in the hall.

14th October, 1613. Att this Court it is ordered that such widdowes as have been masters wyves and doe keepe shoppes or bynd appn?tices shall paye their quarteradge but for such as doe neither keepe shoppes nor bynd appn?tic? they shall not paye any quarteradge And yet notwthstandinge they shalbe bydden to the feast? yerelie.

24th May, 1614. Whereas this Company hath receaved a preceptt from the lord Mayor of this citty forbidding thereby all superfluitie & excesse of Dyet at the ffeast? of this company and thereby injoyning that such feast? as accustomably have been made & provided by this Company shalbe hereafter keept more sparingly & frugally then in former tymes they have, Wherefore it is ordered that there shalbe keept & made on the ellection daie this yere ensuing a smale ellection dynner according to the tenor of the said precept.

25th August, 1614. The above precept soon being forgotten it was this day ordered—

that there shalbe kept an Auditt dynner in such manner & forme as formerlie in other yeares have byn accustomed. And such allowance as formerlie hath byn allowde is to be paid by the howse.

10th July, 1615. At this Court it is ordered that the Cooke shalbe removed & displaced from his place of beinge Cooke of this Companie not onely for that he hath abused and wronged manie who have byn Mrs & Steward? of the feast? in unsemelie word? but for a generall dislike taken against him by this howse & for not p?forminge his office in such sorte as is right he shold & ought to doe.

1624. The funds being very low this year the Court held no election dinner, but regaled themselves with cakes and wine, and the following order was made for the Yeomanry:—

2nd September, 1624. This Court being moved whether the yeomanry of yis Compa. should hould any election dinner or noe. It is for the reason then shewne expressely ordered with a generall consent that the yeomanry shall onely keepe their Election as this Court lately did onely with Cakes and wyne and neither feast musick or sermon to be had at that time.

20th July, 1625. This daye the letter directed to this Companye from my lord Maior of London in effect tending the prohibiting of publicke feasting? in our Hall and the contributeing of those moneys that should be saved thereby the one halfe to be paid unto the chamber of London and the other halfe to the poore of our Companie, so hereupon it is ordered by this Courte yt Ten pound? shalbe distributed to the poore of this Companie at the discretion of the present Mrs & noe money at all to be paid into the Chamber of London.

10th July, 1628. This daye our Mr propounding to this Court whether there should be a greate Election dinner or a small dinner or onely Cakes and wine upon the next Election daye for choise of new Mrs, whereupon by most voyces it was ordered that there should be a greate Election dinner held this yeare and the allowance of xxli toward? that charge to be defrayed.

28th January, 1631. This Court being informed of Swinnertons abusive and naughtie pewter from tyme to tyme brought to serve this Hall at feast? doe dismisse him from serving that place any longer.

20th September, 1632. It is ordered by this Court that the Twoe Governors that are Surgians shalbe at the charge and give the venison that shalbe used at their solepÑe287 feasts and those twoe Governors Surgians and the other twoe Governors Barbars to paye joynetly & sev?ally share and share like amongst them 4 the charge for fees and fetching the venison soe to be brought to or Hall.

8th March, 1637. Whereas the Lord Windsor & Sr Tho. Bludder brothers of this Company were invited to dine here when Mr Die made his dinner that the fare was enlarged. It is ordered that that addic?on of fare amounting to 50s shalbe allowed out of the stock.

6th April, 1638. Whereas the Companie intendeth to invite the Lords of ye privye Counsell & other Lords & p?sons of state at the dedicac?on of the Theater & first anatomicall publiqe opac?ons288 there It is ordered by this Court & theis p?sons following were appointed to give their attendance in the Hall upper p?lors & Theater at the enterteynment of the lords on mondaye next vizt

EdwardCharley Edwardffleete are appointed & have promised to gownes to carry up the Lords diett & attend them at dinner.
Henry Eaton Hen:Wateson
Edward Arris Hen: Boone
Thomas Allen John Dorrell
Lawrence Lowe John Lufkin
Thomas Turner John Perkins

Mr Wateson to be Gentleman Sewer.
Thomas Browne to be Husher of the Hall.
John Perkins to be Groome of the Lords Chamber.
John ffoster to be Groome of the Hall.

Nathan: ffoster beadle to be attendant at the outer streete gate with a white staffe in his hand.

Also Mr Joseph Coop? the Princes Cooke is desired to p?vide messe of meate for the Lord? diett in ye greate p?lor.

The following expenses of this Entertainment are extracted from the Great Audit Book, the first item being probably a Committee dinner to settle details with Mr. Cooper, the King’s Cook.

1638. Paid by consent for a Dinner at the Dragon in Cheape 6 Aprill for the Companie and the princes Cooke ijil ijs iiijd

The Entertainment and Dyninge of the Lords of the Councell in
our great Parlour at the publique Anatomye.

paid to the Butler for Lynnen and plate & Attendauc~e vli
paid to the Pewterer for hire of Pewter then vli
Given to Mr Cooper the Princes Cooke that dressed the Lords dynner vli
paid to two Upholsters for the hier of stooles and chaire xls
paid to the Vinctner for wine then viijli iijs
paid to the princes Cooke for soe much disbursed by him for the Lords diett as to the Butcher Poulterer hearbewoomen fruiterer Grocer fishmonger and Under Cookes as by bill appeareth the som~e of lviijli viijs
paid to Stacke for a bushell of flower xjs vjd and 2 dozen of stale bread ijs xiijs vjd
paid for faggott? and Charcoales as by bill xxvjs vjd
paid for stronge beare and six shillings beere by bill xxxvs and for carryinge in js iiijd xxxvjs iiijd
paid for hire of Venice glasses and pott? &c. and for those pott? and glasses that were broaken xxxiiijs
paid for 4li of double refined sugar viijs iiijd
paid for 3 dossen of french bread iijs
paid to the Waterman and Porter that brought the beere in Bottles from the Lord Chamberlaines vs
paid for the hier of two Close stooles vjs viijd
paid to the porter that brought a dozen of silver dishes from the Lord of Hollands xviijd
paid to Tryman Payne his Scullery man ijs vjd
paid to John Bludder of the Kings Wardrobe for bringinge and hanginge the great Parlour wth Tapestry xxs
To John Bare my Lord Chamberlaynes Pantryman xs
And to one of his Scullery men xs
And to the Lady of Devonshires man that brought the silver dishes vs
Paid for bread when the Lords dined there xijs
Summ~. lxxxxiijli vs iiijd

20th June, 1638. Upon the complaint of the losse of a silver spoone the last dinner in the Hall and diver other times napkins & pewter dishes this Court doth order that when dinner goes in, the outer Wickett doore shalbe alwayes locked & the key thereof brought in and layed by or Mr for the time being till dinner be ended & the plate naperye & dishes gathered up & soe discharged.

The next entry would seem to indicate that some previous gift for the purchase of books had unhappily been diverted into a wrong channel.

2nd March, 1640. £6 given by Mistress Napkin & Mistriss Eaton is absolutely ordered to buy bookes & not disbursed or dispended in Drinking.

The following circumstance is significant, as exactly one hundred years later the separation which Mr. Foster desired, and for which he got into trouble, became an accomplished fact.

6th November, 1645. Mr. Ralph Foster was complained of for refusing to make his dinner to the Court on his election as an Assistant, and he thereupon uttered certain speeches “tending to the separation of the Barbers from the Surgeons,” for which he was reprimanded, whereupon he promised to make his dinner and to say no more about disunion.

23rd October, 1649. Upon reading the precept requiring the Livery to attend the Lord Mayor Elect to Westminster in their Barge, it was ordered that the Livery should be warned to perform that service in accordance with old custom, and “that there be a ffeast at the Hall on that day for the said Livery, But in respect of the hardnes and troubles of the times this Court doth consent that there be noe second course and noe Woeman at the same ffeast.”

Among the Company’s archives are four books containing many details of the feasts held between the years 1676 and 1790. They appear to have been kept by the various cooks, probably under the direction of the Clerk, and the following gleanings from them will be found to be replete with interest.

The first entry is as follows—

July ye 4th 1676 for barber sirgons hall Cortt diner.

Leag of mutton boyld Sallet 8 harty Chockes for 2
Sr Loyne of befe Neack of Mutton dishes
Shoulder of Venison 3 Chickens 3 Rabets 2 small Dishes of frut
ffor a Leag of Mutton 0 3 4
ffor a Sirloyne of befe 0 9 0
ffor a Shoulder of venison 0 5 0
3 chickins 3 rabets 0 5 6
8 harty chockes 0 1 0
ffrut 0 3 6
fyring 0 3 0
3 pound of butter 0 1 6
veniger 0 0 3
peper & other spice 0 0 3
oyle & salt 0 0 6
Gallindine 0 0 6
4 Colliflouers 0 1 3
ffor dressing Diner 0 6 6

July ye 27th 1676 ffor ye Asestance & thar wivfes att barbar sirgons

li. s. d.
ffor 5 Dishis of Chickins Backon & Colliflours boyld 2 10 0
ffor a side of venison 1 4 0
ffor 3 Sir Loynes of befe 1 10 0
ffor 1 fore rebb for breackfast 0 8 0
ffor a neack of vele & muton 0 7 0
ffor 3 Grand Sallets 0 12 0
ffor puting 3 peces of venison in past 1 4 0
ffor 3 Dishis of geses 2 in a dish 0 18 0
ffor 3 made Dishis & 18 Chescaks 0 15 0
ffor 3 Dishis of Turkes & sas289 2 in a dish 0 18 0
ffor 3 Lumbard pyes 1 4 0
ffor 4 Dishis of Toung & udders 1 4 0
ffor 3 Custtords 0 12 0
ffor a firckin of Sturjon 2 0 0
ffor 4 Dishis of Chickins & pigons 1 4 0
ffor ye use of putter290 1 0 0
ffor wood and coles 0 12 0
ffor 3 Dishis of Tarts 1 1 0
ffor 3 Dishis of oringes & lemonds 0 7 6
ffor a small dish of frute 0 2 6
ffor worckmen & labarars and my owne paines 1 0 0
3 Dishis of frut 0 0 0
20 13 0

The monthly dinners were very much after the foregoing Bill of fare, and the following extracts of some of the more interesting items are taken at random.

October, 1676. ffor 2 piges291 0 7 0
2 pullets rostted with saseges & oystters 0 5 0
ffor 3 Gallions of oysters 1 4 0
ffor 18 lb. of medling backon 0 12 0
ffor 8 lb. of lardin backon 0 5 4

The dinner on Lord Mayor’s Day, 1676, cost £26 6s. 4d., this was exclusive of wine. The “buttered ale” on this occasion was compounded as follows—

1 C of Eages292 & 8 Gallions of Ale 0 5 4
2 lb. of butter 0 1 2
8 lb. of sugar 0 4 0
1 ounce of nuttmages 0 0 5
0 10 11
December, 1676. ffor 4 Duckes 0 4 8
January, 1677. ffor 1 quart of oyle 0 2 0
January, 1677. ffor 2 quarts of venigar 0 1 0
March, 1677. A quarttern of Smelts 0 2 0
18 whitting 0 1 6
a Jegett of mutton 0 4 6
6 capons 0 13 0
9 chickins 0 12 0
9 Rabets 0 6 0
7 Lobstars 0 9 4
a side of Lamb 0 5 6
ffor Lorell flouers & fenell 0 0 6
ffor flouer spice & Anchoves 0 1 6
May, 1677. ffor 2 Calfes heads 0 6 0
ffor 4 hundreds of sparagar 0 3 4
ffor 3 wasfalia hames 1 0 0

Cucumbers under the designation of “cockinbers” and sometimes “cowcombers,” together with sorell, barbery, “samfer,” “lorell flouers,” capers, anchovies, oranges and lemons, “gallindene,” “carberys,” horse reddish, parsley, “red cabbeg,” etc., frequently occur at this period as being used for garnishes and in the preparation of the dinners.

March, 1678. ffor a Hole fresh Cod 0 14 0
ffor 12 teale and 3 docks293 0 15 9
ffor 4 quartes of oysters 0 8 0
ffor 3 dishis of pipins & Caraways 0 4 0
May, 1678. ffor 7 Grene geese 0 19 0
July, 1678. ffor 4 Battelia pyes 2 8 0
September, 1678. ffor a Maria puding 0 4 0
October, 1678. a dish of florindines 0 6 0

The staple dishes about this period were—

Westphalia hams.
Sirloins of beef.
Necks of veal and mutton.
Boiled legs of pork.
“Midlin” bacon.
Tongues and udders.
Dishes of Pigeons.
Dishes of Turkeys.
Sturgeon.
Ling.
Dishes of tarts.
Apple pie.
Custards.
Mince pies.
Grand salads.
Sparagrasse.
Sprouts.
Colliflowers.
Venison pasties.
Ribs of beef.
Rabbits.
Capons and sausages.
Pullets and oysters.
Geese.
“Lumber” pies.
“Tansies.”
Cod.
Eel pies.
“Maid dishes.”
Dishes of fruit.
Almond florandines.
Oranges and lemons.
French benes.
Spinidge.
Turnops.
Hartychockes.

The pudding now so well known at Barbers’ Hall as “Barbers’ pudding,” was originally “Maria pudding,” then “mara,” later on spelt “maro,” and finally “marrow pudding,” by which latter designation it is often now called.

September, 1684. ffor 8 oringes 0 1 8

Poultry seems to have been cheap, as for the election dinner in this year—

7 Geese were bought for 1 4 6
16 Turkeys " " 1 14 8
39 Chickens " " 1 19 0
90 Pigeons " " 1 6 3

The allowance to the “musick” at nearly every dinner was a shoulder of mutton, sometimes supplemented by two rabbits. The cost of “dressing” the monthly dinners was usually about 8s., and of the Election, Audit and quarterly Courts £1 10s. to £4.

May, 1685. ffor 2 dishes of Pidgon and Backon and spinig 0 16 0
2 dishes of Mackerell 0 6 0

August, 1687. This election dinner was a little above the average, the following being the details—

for a Brace of Bucks 8 13 0
for Putting them in 8 Pastyes 4 0 0
for 6 Sr Loynes of Beef and a four rib for brakefast 3 4 0
4 Westfalia hams 1 11 0
7 Lumber pyes 2 16 0
7 Marrow puddings 1 15 0
7 Custarts 1 11 6
7 Dishes of Tarts 2 2 0
7 Dishes of Tonges and Udders 1 15 0
7 Gees 1 5 8
14 Torkeyes 1 11 6
45 Chickins 2 5 0
4 Dozen and 1/2 of Pidgeons 0 13 6
12 Partriges 0 12 0
a Shoulder of Mutton & 2 Rabits for the musick 0 5 0
12 pound of midling Bakon and Lard 0 8 0
24 1/2 pound of fresh butter 0 17 0
for Artechoaks Cabidg french beans Lawrell Parsly and herbs to garnish 0 9 0
flower Salt and Salt butter for the range 0 5 6
for Gallindine and Goos sace294 0 3 6
for Viniger 0 6 0
for Brooms packthread Candels and other things 0 1 0
Wood and coles 1 0 0
Kooks and Laberours and my own pains 3 0 0
2 pounds of Loaf Suger 2 0 0
40 6 8
0 0 8

May, 1688. Is the first mention of a “creem chees”

December, 1692. With the exceptions of ling, sturgeon, and salt fish with egg sauce, but little other fish appears to have been eaten. On this occasion, however, we find—

2 Dishis of fresh Cod Drest with Shrimps & Anchove Sawse 0 14 0
ffor 6 Whitings 0 2 0

October, 1693. Green peas are for the first time referred to amongst the vegetables, and, singularly enough, they only occur once in each year for many years, and then at the October dinners!

June, 1698. 2 pounds of fine powdered sugar for the Strawberrys 0 1 4
July, 1704.
The Stewards Dinner.
A legg of mutton rosted 0 2 8
A buttered appel pye 0 3 0
Cheese to ye appel pye 0 0 2
3 Quartes of Coffee 0 3 0
0 8 10

May, 1707. ffor 15 Mackril 0 10 0
16 Gooseberry tartes 0 8 0
Caper sauce for the mutton 0 1 0
April, 1708. A Frygusse of Lamb 0 6 0

20th September, 1709. It was ordered, in consequence of the great increase in the Livery, that there should be six instead of five stewards of the Mayor’s Feast to make the Livery dinner, and any liveryman chosen to the office and refusing to serve was to be prosecuted under the by-laws. The fine for not serving was £13 6s. 8d., and was invariably enforced, numerous cases of refusal being decided at law in favour of the Company. Six Whifflers were as usual, appointed “to be attendant upon the Governrs at the Hall upon the next Lord Mayors day in comely & decent Apparrell with gilded Chaines & white Staves.”

6th November, 1717. In consequence of irregularities at the Lord Mayor’s feast, it was ordered that in future the Stewards should be prohibited from bringing their wives and friends to the dinner.

1721. The third dinner book opens with an account of the receipts of the Governors’ “Potation Money” for this year, amounting to £131 11s. 2d., the contributions being from Barbers one guinea, and from Surgeons two guineas each. This potation money was spent at the Mitre Tavern in Fleet Street, on ten Monthly Court dinners, which averaged the modest sum of £4 4s. apiece, and the remainder was disbursed about the election feast, wine and sundries.

The cost of the Mayor’s feast this year was £67 7s., and at this dinner was drunk a hogshead of port (query), six gallons of mountain, six gallons of white port, and three gallons of canary.

July 19th, 1722. At the ladies’ feast the following wine was drunk—

30 Gallons Red Port at 7s. 10 10 0
11 " Sherry at 7s. 3 17 0
7 " Canary at 7s. 2 9 0
5 " Rhenish at 7s. 1 15 0

and 4s. were expended on tobacco and pipes.

1726. The monthly Court dinners were held at the George and Vulture Tavern, nine of them costing in all £29 13s. 9d.

The Election dinner this year cost £91 8s. 0d.

And the Lord Mayor’s feast £72 1s. 101/2d.

June, 1729. The monthly Court dinner was held at “Vaux Hall.”

The accounts throughout the Third Dinner Book (1720–1740) appear to be much the same every year. First is a list of receipts for Potation Money, averaging about £100 per annum, then follow the allowances out of the same towards the Election dinner, the dressing it and use of pewter, about £19 in all, the payments for the monthly Court dinners (nine or ten at about £4 4s. each), and the expenses of the Election feasts, about £80 to £90 a piece.

The cost of the Lord Mayor’s feast, the Livery feast, and the Ladies’ feast, was borne by the Stewards.

There were gay doings at some of these dinners, as witness the following:

1726. Paid the Boy who danced the anticks at the Lady’s feast, 5s.

1727. By Cash paid the Butchers who played to the Company with their Marrow bones and cleavers on Lord Mayor’s day, 1s.

And there were sometimes rather shady doings after the dinners, thus:

10th July, 1729. Mem~dm. Mr Truelove & Mr Fradin carried away ye next morning after ye feast four Dozen Quarts of Wine, One whole Venison pasty, One whole Goose, one whole fowl, & several lemons & sugar.

1st February, 1732. Mr. John Atkinson and the other Stewards of the Mayor’s feast, employed a cook of their own, and “did make a most scandalous Dinner for ye Co.,” whereupon order was given that in future no other than the “Standing Cooke” of the Company should be employed.

One is astounded at the quantity of wine which appears to have been imbibed at some of these dinners; take, for example, the following on Lord Mayor’s Day, 1735, and note that it is especially stated that the wine was “drank at the said feast”:

Paid for the following quantitys of wine provided for and drank at the said feast, vizt.

To Mr Standert for 21 Gall Red Port
2 Gall Lisben
2 Gall Mountaine
2 Gall Canary
29 Bottles lost
To Mr Gaywood for 20 Gall Red Port
2 Gall Mountaine
2 Gall Lisbone
2 Gall Canary
To Mr. Pierce for 2 Gall Lisben
2 Gall Mountaine
2 Gall Canary
20 Gall Red Port
6 6 0
0 12 0
0 12 0
0 13 0
0 4 10
6 0 0
0 12 0
0 12 0
0 13 0
0 12 0
0 12 0
0 13 0
6 0 0

By the above account these thirsty old Barber-Surgeons seem to have consumed no less than 79 Gallons of wine at this dinner.

15th July, 1736. 56 gallons of wine were drunk at the Ladies’ feast.

21st July, 1726. It is orderd That from henceforward at all publick Feasts or Dinners to be held or made at the Hall the Cook of the Company for the time being shall before he sends the Dinner into the Hall deliver to the Clark of the Company at his House his Messe of meat consisting of six compleat dishes according to the Ancient laws and usage of the Company in that behalf the same being the ancient ffee & Perquisite of the Clerk.

21st August, 1729. The above order was vacated in consequence of disputes as to the contents and number of the dishes supplied to the Clerk, and it was ordered that the Clerk should receive £5 5s. annually in lieu of his “messe of meat,” and also that he should dine at all the feasts “as he has always been accustomed to do.”

1st February, 1731. For the better regulating of the Ladys Feast It is ordered That every Member of the Court of Assistants shall besides his Lady and one daughter have three tickets to be delivered to such persons as they shall think fitt to be admitted to come and dance at the Hall at Five of the Clock on that day and that there shall be two Constables to attend at the Hall gate and see that nobody is admitted but with such Ticketts and that the Ticketts be made out by the Clerk of the Company and sealed with the Company’s seal.

The Summons to a Liveryman to take upon himself the office of Steward was of a very peremptory nature, as will be seen by the following:—

Sr

By order of the Mars or Govrs of the Mystery & Comonalty of Barbers & Surgeons of London, I do hereby give you notice that you having been chosen & admitted of the Livery or Cloathing of the said Company, You are appointed by the Masters or Govrs of the sd Compd together with Mr. Richard Penton Mr. Joseph Griffin Mr. Daniel Pengrove and Mr. Joseph Mitchell who are also Liverymen of the said Company to make an Entertainment in the Comon Hall of the said Company situate in Monckwell Street in the Parish of Saint Olave Silver Street in the City of London for the Govrs and Assistants of the sd Company commonly called the Livery Dinner on Teusday the 3d day of June 1735 at two of the Clock in the afternoon pursuant to a By law of the said Company in that behalf made & provided. And in case you shall neglect or refuse wthout reasonable Excuse to join together with the said Mr. Richard Penton Mr. Joseph Griffin Mr. Daniel Pengrove and Mr. Joseph Mitchell to made such Dinner on Teusday the 3d day of June next, or to contribute and pay your share and and proporc?on of the charges thereof you will forfeit and pay to the said Mars or Govrs of the sd Mystery and Comonalty to the use of the said Company the sum of £5. And I do hereby give you further notice That the gentlemen who are to join with you in making the said dinner will meet you at the George and Vulture Tavern in Saint Michael’s Alley in Cornhill in the City of London on Friday next being the 23rd day of this instant May at six of the clock in the afternoon to give the proper directions for the said dinner, at which time and place you are desired to attend for that purpose.

I am Sr
Your most obedt. humble Servt.
Cha: Bernard
Clerk to the sd Company.

Herewith you will receive a copy of the Bill of Fare or a Particular of wch the sd Entertainment is to consist.

Barbers and
Surgeon’s Hall,

22d May 1735

To Mr. Cha: More.

28th May, 1741. By an order made this day in reference to the Ladies’ feast it was directed—

that the Entertainment shall continue no longer than twelve of the clock when there shall be no more Dancing but that the Musick be then dismissed and the Company depart.

28th August, 1741. The Court having taken into consideration the ill behaviour and abusive language of John Atkinson Distiller in White Chappell (a Liveryman of this Company) on the last day of Election, who in a most gross manner (in the Common Hall of this Company) the Master of the said Company did greatly insult and abuse and did otherwise very indecently and rudely behave to other Members of the Company whereby the Peace of the said Company then assembled was greatly disturbed, and being determined to put a stop to and prevent the like grievances for the future by punishing all such offendors herein Ordered that the said John Atkinson be fined for such his ill behaviour to the Master the sum of 6s 8d and 10s for bringing in to Dinner on that day another person with him after having been acquainted by the Master that the same was contrary to the By laws of the said Company.

1745. It is noticeable that the Potation Money fell off on the separation of the Surgeons from the Barbers. During the three or four preceding years the amount had been steadily running down from an average of £105 to £57, and there seems to have been no Election or Livery Dinners this year, though the gallant Barbers did not forget the Ladies, for they gave them (and themselves) a dinner at a cost of £52 1s. 9d.

The Barbers, too, at this time do not seem to have drunk quite so much wine as the Barber-Surgeons did, and in the year 1747 is the first mention of Beer, when 12s. was paid for a barrel of small Beer for the Lord Mayor’s feast, and only 68 bottles of wine were consumed on this occasion.

Between the years 1750 and 1786 no records are kept of any but the Mayor’s feasts, though doubtless the Company did not fast during the intervals.

There is now a striking similarity in these dinner accounts year by year; usually there were six stewards each of whom provided, about the years 1775, and later on, no less than 53 bottles of wine each, thus emulating their predecessors the Barber-Surgeons; there are numerous references to these bottles as being quarts, so that about 80 gallons must have been drunk at each dinner. Happily, all this is now changed.

It is noticeable from the earliest times that the Company on every occasion of a feast, invariably hired their Pewter dishes and plates at great cost; it seems strange that this continual outlay should have been incurred, instead of keeping a stock of pewter.

1830 and 1831. Considerable difficulty had arisen for some years past in procuring Stewards for the Mayor’s feasts, and also in enforcing the fines for not serving, whereupon a resolution was passed that Liverymen refusing to pay the Steward’s fine would not be invited to the dinners, and would be declared ineligible to come on the Court.

The Court seem to have had grave doubts as to the efficacy of their By-Laws in recovering at law the Steward’s fines, and a case having been prepared it was submitted to Sir James Scarlett and to Sir Thomas Denman (the Attorney General). The opinion of the former eminent Counsel, dated 10th October, 1832, is set out in the minutes, and he appears to have been very clear that they would not be recoverable, whereupon the Court ordered a letter (of 16th October) to be addressed to the Livery, informing them of the difficulty which had arisen by reason of Liverymen refusing to serve as Stewards in their rotation (after having partaken of the hospitality of other Stewards in former years), and that in consequence thereof there would be no dinner that year. The day after this letter was sent out, Sir Thomas Denman’s opinion was handed in, and was to the opposite effect of that given by Sir James Scarlett! Since this period, and now, the Steward’s fine is paid on the admission of a Liveryman, and thus a source of constant annoyance is done away with.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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