In general, to the uninitiated, the word «lace» signifies exclusively the delicate and elaborate fabrics that owe their origin to Venice and the Netherlands and were thence imported into other countries. But besides Venetian, French, English, Chantilly, Brussels, Sedan point, names familiar to every one, there are all kinds of other laces, likewise of great antiquity, and named as the above are, after the country they belong to.

As it would be impossible in these pages to give a comprehensive account of them all, we have restricted ourselves to such as seem more especially suited to the amateur, to whom needlework is a mere recreation and pastime.

Worked like the above-named entirely with the needle, but much less elaborate and minute in character and workmanship, they are quicker and easier to make and we are sure that by the help of the directions that accompany the illustrations, any careful worker will be able to imitate them without difficulty.

Materials.—It will be observed that we do not bind ourselves in the following directions to one size of cotton, that as in point of fact, one and the same piece of work can be executed in either fine or coarse cotton, we have only indicated the most suitable kind of material to use: as for instance for Armenian lace, Fil À pointer D.M.C[A] or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], for Smyrna or knotted lace, Fil À pointer D.M.C, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C and Fil À dentelle D.M.C[A], for Reticella and Venetian lace, Fil d'Alsace D.M.C[A], for Brussels lace, the finest numbers of Fil À dentelle and for pillow lace, any one of those enumerated, excepting Coton À broder surfin.

Pillow lace and the necessary articles for its manufacture.—Pillow lace derives its name from the cushion or pillow on which all bobbin lace is made, which distinguishes it from point lace, so-called because it consists of «points» or stitches made with a needle and thread.

Various articles are required for the making of pillow lace; in the first place a cushion or pillow, then bobbins and a winder, parchment patterns, pins and a pricker.

The lace pillow (figs. 774, 775, 776).—The pillows used for pillow lace are of different kinds and vary in shape with where the country, and the manner in which the lace is made.

Fig. 774 represents the shape in use in the mountains of Bohemia and Saxony, where pillow lace has always been one of the chief industries of the inhabitants. Any one can make a cushion of this kind themselves with a piece of stuff, 60 c/m. long and 40 wide. The long sides are firmly sewn together and the short ones turned in with a narrow hem through which you run a cord to draw them up. A disc of stout cardboard is put inside the case after you have gathered up the one end; you then stuff the case as full as possible with bran, sawdust or horsehair, lay a second disc of cardboard in at the top and draw up the other end.

These pillows are then put into cardboard boxes with rather high sides, or into a kind of basket, weighted at the bottom, to keep it firm and steady. Pillows of this most primitive kind have the great advantage of being perfectly easy to make.

Fig. 775 represents a pillow of a more complicated kind, which can be stood upon the table or mounted on a stand. The cylinder is movable so that you can go on working without interruption.

The whole apparatus consists of a board or stand, 50 c/m. long and 40 wide, resting upon two transverse pieces of wood, 3½ c/m. high behind and 1 c/m. in front.

The board should be covered, first with a very thick flannel or Bath coating and then with a fine dark green flannel or cloth.

Two small supports are fixed on to the outside edge of the stand to hold the cylinder, which consists of two discs that revolve on a rod about 22 c/m. long.

This rod should be covered, in the first place with a thick layer of tow and then with flannel or cloth.

On the left side of the cylinder is a cog-wheel and a metal spring is attached to the board, by means of which the wheel is prevented from turning the wrong way.

Fig. 776 shows how the bobbins are placed upon the pillow. In Normandy a kind of stuffed box is used instead of a pillow. The board is 3 c/m. higher behind than in front and is deeply grooved to hold the cylinder, which is stuffed and shaped like the one represented in fig. 775.

This cylinder scarcely projects above the stand, a second groove in the back edge receives the lace as it is worked off the cylinder.

The pillows used for Valenciennes lace are of again a different construction, but as it is not our intention in the present work to describe the finer kinds of lace it appeared superfluous to give any illustration of the pillows on which they are made.

The bobbins (fig. 777).—A bobbin is a sort of little wooden spool with a handle to it; there are several varieties of them but we have confined ourselves to a representation of the kind considered best for beginners.

As a considerable number are wanted for every pattern and they are apt to slip about and get entangled in inexperienced hands, they are now to be had with the handles weighted with lead to steady them and counteract any independent motion of their own. We cannot help again laying great stress on the importance of seeing that the size of the bobbins and the number of the cotton be well assorted to the kind of lace.

The winder (fig. 778).—Every one who means to take the work seriously should provide themselves with a winder, as here represented, which is affixed to a polished wooden stand.

This stand has to be firmly screwed to the table and the bobbin is squeezed in between the two little rods fitted into the supports at the left end of the stand; one of these rods serves as the axle to the little wheel, the other can be drawn in and out and fitted to the length of the bobbin.

When the bobbin is fixed in its place, you take the thread in the left hand and wind it round it, turning the wheel with the right hand from right to left in the direction indicated by the arrow.

The thread is wound round the handles of the bobbins that are used for making very fine lace, and a wooden shield that is so contrived that you can slip it over the handle prevents the thread from getting soiled.

Stoppage of the thread at the end of the bobbin (fig. 779).—After cutting off the thread, you make a loop close to the top of the bobbin to prevent it from unwinding too easily. This loop is formed by taking the bobbin in the right hand, the thread between the fourth and fifth fingers of the left hand and laying it away from you round the left thumb; then lifting up the bottom thread with the second finger of the left hand you pass the bobbin upwards from below through the loop on the left hand.

Machine for crossing the threads (fig. 780).—This ingenious little machine is of great assistance in making straight running patterns and Irish lace braids, and is particularly useful for Russian lace and braid lace of all kinds.

It renders the even crossing of the threads in those parts of a pattern that imitate linen in texture comparatively easy.

Two implements like combs, fitting into one another, and movable, are mounted at two thirds of their length on a steel axle. The long teeth have holes bored through the ends, from the sides to the middle of the points and through these holes the threads from the bobbins are passed.

The short teeth also are pierced with transverse holes, through which a needle with the threads threaded in the long teeth resting upon it, is passed. The points of the short teeth are covered with a hollow metal cylinder, split through from end to end, which can be removed when new threads have to be added.

When the threads are all on, a small spring is fixed to the two ends of the axle, which is independent of the machine, and the two ends of the spring are introduced into the hollow of the cylinder.

By the pressure you exercise on the teeth in the cylinder, the long teeth change their position, the lower ones rise and the upper ones fall and the threads cross each other, as in a loom. After each movement of the machine, the bobbin that makes the woof must be passed between the crossed threads; the edges are made like those of any other kind of lace.

Fig. 781 explains how the bobbins are passed between the threads that are held between the teeth of the machine.

The pattern.—The pattern is one of the most important things in making pillow lace.

The outlines must be clear and exact, as upon that in great measure the perfection of the lace depends.

The drawing transferred to parchment, paper or cardboard, usually of a yellowish tint, should be lined with a very thin stuff such as muslin to prevent its tearing.

A stripe of quadrille, or point paper as it is called, should be laid upon the pattern and then holes pricked with a medium-sized needle at every intersection of the lines.

All the curved long lines of the pattern must first be traced upon the point paper with ink and then pricked.

The pattern should be adapted to the thickness of the thread the lace is to be made of; for a coarse lace large point paper should be used and small, for the finer kinds of lace. The pricking of the pattern beforehand is particularly important in the case of the common torchon lace, where the real beauty of the design consists in its regularity; in the case of fine close patterns the pricking can only be done as you proceed.

Prickers and holders of the kind represented in fig. 782 or very much resembling it, are to be had at every stationer's shop.

The holes made by the prickers are to receive the pins, stuck in as you go along, round which you form and by which these are kept in their place.

The pins must be long, with round heads and of a size suited to the thread. When your pattern is ready fasten it to the pillow or cylinder as the case may be, stretching it as smoothly as possible and being careful in so doing to fit the lines of the pattern together. If it be too long it must be cut to the required length or you may make the cylinder bigger by wrapping several folds of flannel round it.

The value of lace depends not only on the work but on the thread it is made of; all the D.M.C cottons[A] can be recommended for lace-making and coloured laces of all kinds are greatly improved by the addition of a little ChinÉ d'or D.M.C or Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie.[A]

Position and movements of the hands (fig. 783).—Pillow lace is always made with two pairs of bobbins at once and the «stitches» are formed by the different ways of passing, plaiting, crossing and twisting the threads.

To begin with the simplest operation, making a plait, hang 2 pairs of bobbins to a pin, take 2 bobbins in each hand and lay the right bobbin of each pair over its left fellow and draw up the threads slightly. Then take the bobbins in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers of the right hand and with the same fingers of the left, lay the 2nd bobbin over the 3rd with the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the left, so that the two middle bobbins are crossed, then take the 4th bobbin in the 2nd and 3rd fingers of the right hand and the bobbin that is now the 2nd, in the 3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand and lay the former over the 3rd, the latter over the 1st. This constitutes a «half passing».

The plait, fig. 784, is formed by the repetition of the half passing. Two half passings make a whole or «double passing».

On the kind of lace you are making, depends how many pairs of bobbins you will have to use. But as one part of the lace is often made before the other, or you have to put on supernumerary bobbins, you fasten up those not in use on one side with pins, as shown in fig. 783.

Net pattern or ground (figs. 785 and 786).—This consists of half passings, worked in rows to and fro; the pins are stuck in at the end of each row.

The pattern, fig. 785, is fastened upon the pillow and 6 pins are stuck in at the top, at regular intervals from each other; hang one pair of bobbins on every pin and lay the second bobbin of each pair over its fellow, so that the threads cross each other.

1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 4th and 5th pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and 6th pair = stick in a pin at point 2, then work back from right to left = surround the pin with a half passing made with the 5th and 6th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 half passing with the 4th and 3rd pairs = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = stick in a pin at point 3 and repeat from the beginning.

Fig. 786 shows the net ground completed; the thread that runs to and fro, to make it more clear, is represented in a darker shade than the others.

Before proceeding further, it is as well to prepare our readers for the many trials they will have to make, even with the help of the most minute explanations, before they succeed in carrying out the directions; for the whole art of making pillow lace lies in a manual dexterity, only attainable by practice.

Even copying the patterns from description is only possible at first in a qualified sense; the surest way of attaining a satisfactory result is by constantly comparing the drawing and the work in progress and wherever the latter does not correspond with the former, trying at once to rectify the difference.

Linen or cloth ground.—The pattern used for net passing can also be used for linen passing or ground but 7 pins, instead of 6, have to be stuck in at the top first. As in net passing, you work first from left to right, running 2 threads to and fro in perfectly horizontal lines, so as to produce a ground resembling linen in its texture.

The threads that run to and fro are held at the edge with pins and changed by a half passing, so that the one that was first in going, is first also in returning.

The use of the machine for crossing the threads is especially to be recommended in working linen ground; by pressing the short branches of the machine, the position of the threads is changed and the bobbin is pushed through; by a second pressure the second bobbin is driven through, the pin is stuck in for the picot or the cord, when the bobbins are taken back again, four movements being thus all that is required.

Plain hole ground (figs. 787 and 788).—Hole ground can be worked in various ways; we will begin by describing the plain hole ground, which as a rule forms the ground of all torchon laces. After fixing the pattern, as represented in fig. 787, upon the pillow, stick in 5 pins, hang 2 pairs of bobbins on to each and throw the 2nd bobbin of each pair over its fellow = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pairs = put up a pin at point 1 = 1 half passing with the same pair = this encloses the pin = lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose it with the same pairs = 1 half passing with the 5th and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose it with the same pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 half passing the 4th and 3rd pair = put up the pin at point 4 = enclose the same = lay the 4th pair aside = work on in the same way over points 5 and 6 = 1 half passing with the 6th and 7th pair = put up the pin at point 7 = enclose the same = work on in the same way over points 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 = 1 half passing with the 8th and 9th pair = put up the pin at point 31 = enclose the same = work on over points 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 = 1 half passing with the 9th and 10th pair = put up the pin at point 21 = enclose the same and proceed as in the preceding rows, from point 22 to 29.

Hole ground with twisted thread is made in the same way we have just been describing, only that after every half passing enclosing the pin, each pair of bobbins is twisted once. A ground which is worked in this way is stronger than the other. Twisted hole ground is seen again in figs. 792 and 794.

Wheels in hole ground (figs. 789 and 790).—For the wheels, which are often worked on pillow-made grounds, 4, 6, 8 pairs of bobbins, sometimes even more are used (see likewise fig. 801).

In fig. 789, the wheel is worked with the 4 middle pairs of bobbins. Each pair has first to be twisted once = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay aside the 4th pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up the pin at the next point and between the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = the last passing completes the wheel, such as it is represented in fig. 790.

Twist the pairs of bobbins again as you did before beginning the wheel and then proceed with the plain ground.

Rose ground (figs. 791 and 792).—After preparing the pattern, as in fig. 791, put up pins at a, b, c, d, e, f, g, h and i and hang on 2 pairs of bobbins to the first pin, and one pair to each of the other 8 = 1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = twist each pair once = take out the pin at point a and put it up again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin with 1 half passing = twist the pair once = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = twist the pair again = take out the pin at b, put it in again at the same point between the pair = enclose the pin = twist the pairs again = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = twist the pair again = take out the needle at c and put it in again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the pin = work point 2 and 1 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = 1 half passing with the 4th and 5th pair = twist the pairs again = take out the pin at d and put it in again at the same point between the pair = work point e exactly like point d with the 5th and 6th pair = work point 4 like point 3 with the 4th and 5th pair = work points 5, 6 and 7 in a slanting direction from right to left = carry out point 8 with the 5th and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = work point 9 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = work point f like point e with the 6th and 7th pair = work point g like point f with the 7th and 8th pair = then work points 10 to 15 with the 6th and 7th pair = point 16 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 17 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 18 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = point h like point g with the 8th and 9th pair = point i with the 9th and 10th pair = points 19 to 26 with the 9th and 10th pair = point 27 with the 9th and 8th pair = point 28 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 29 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 30 with the 3rd and 2nd pair. Proceed in this manner until the whole ground be finished.

Double or ornamental ground (figs. 793 and 794).—This ground should be worked in a comparatively fine material; we should recommend Fil À dentelle D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100. Put up pins at points a and g in the pattern and hang on a pair of bobbins = put up pins likewise at b, c, d, e and f and hang on a pair of bobbins to each = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = take out the pin at point b and put it in again between the pair at the same place = enclose the pin with a half passing = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 4th and 5th pair = take out the pin at point l and put it in again between the pairs at the same place = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a needle at point 4 = enclose the needle = work point d like point c with the 6th and 7th pair = 1 half passing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 5 = enclose the pin = work over point e like point d with the 7th and 8th pair = 1 half passing with the 7th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 6 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 7 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 6th and 7th pair = lay the 2 pairs aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and 4th pair, by which the threads are made to cross each other in the square = work over point f as over point e with the 10th and 11th pair = work over points 17 to 19 as over points 5 to 7 = when the square is finished 1 half passing with the 10th and 11th pair = half passings between all the squares.

Tulle ground (fig. 795).—Prepare your pattern for the ground represented here on a magnified scale, by pricking holes at regular distances so as to form diagonal lines intersecting each other, as shown in the engraving, and set more or less closely together, according to the thickness of the thread you use.

1 half passing = put up the pin at the next point, twist both pairs twice, but without enclosing the pin, and pass the inner left thread over the inner left one = twist the two pairs again = cross as before and so on.

Valenciennes ground (fig. 796).—The Valenciennes ground is formed of little plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins are used. These plaits are often used in other kinds of lace as well, as may be seen for instance in figs. 801, 802 and 806 which are not Valenciennes patterns.

According to the size of the squares the plaits are made with either 4, 6 or 8 half passings, 2 pairs of bobbins being invariably used. The plaits are joined by a half passing, made with the last pair of the left plait and the first of the right = stick the pin into the hole = enclose the pin by a half passing and work the next plait on the left with the two left pairs and the next plait on the right with the two right pairs.

Brussels ground (fig. 797).—For the sake of greater clearness, this ground too has been worked and reproduced here on a magnified scale.

It is worked in diagonal lines, as follows: 1 double passing with 2 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with a double passing, twist both pairs each time once and so on. This ground, when it is worked by the hand in very fine thread, takes a long time to do and is therefore often made by machinery.

Eternelle with two rows of holes (fig. 798).—The so-called «eternelle» laces have no definite pattern; they can be made of any width, in the form of insertions or edgings.

For a single row of holes, you want 6 pairs of bobbins; for two rows, 7; for three, 9, adding two pairs of bobbins for every additional row of holes. The upper part of fig. 798 shows how the points are distributed; here 7 pairs of bobbins are used.

Put up a pin at the topmost point = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing = take out the pin and put it in again between the two pairs = tighten the pair = hang on 1 pair of bobbins again on the left = 1 double passing with the 1st pair of the bobbins you hung on first and with the new pair = push the double passing close to the pin = twist the first pair once and then lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins in the middle = 1 double passing with both pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once and lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = put up 1 pin at the 3rd lower point, hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing with these bobbins = lay the 7th pair aside = * 1 double passing with the 6th and 5th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at the next point = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair, to enclose the pin = lay the 3 first pairs aside = 1 double stitch with the 4th and 5th pair = lay the last two pairs aside = 1 double passing with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with the last pairs = repeat from *.

Lace with torchon ground and edge in net ground (fig. 799).—Worked with 10 pairs of bobbins.

Put up a pin at * = make net passings, fig. 786, to point 1 = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin with the two last pairs on the right = net passings to point 2 = put up a pin at point 2 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net passings to point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the pin = net passings to point 4 = put up a pin at point 4 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net passings to point 5 = put up a pin at point 5 = net passings, back to point 6 = put up a pin at point 6 = take up the bobbins on the left again = 1 half passing with the 1st pair on the left = put up a pin at point 7 = work the torchon ground, at the top of the lace, as in fig. 788, with the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 8 = twist the 1st and 2nd pair = 1 double passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 9 = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd pair aside = make hole or torchon stitch, fig. 788, with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 10 = work on to point 11 in hole ground = put up a pin at point 11 = cross the 1st and 2nd pair on the left = put up a pin at point 12 = enclose the pin = lay 5 pairs of bobbins aside on the left = take up 5 pairs on the right = put up a pin at point 13 = net passings with the 5 pairs on the right = take up, in addition, the 6th pair on the left = hole ground with the 5th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 14 = net passings to point 15 with 5 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 15 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = take up a 7th pair of bobbins in addition = hole ground with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at point 16 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 17 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 18 and then repeat from the first point * on the left.

Pillow lace (figs. 800, 801, 802).—We here give as an example the same pattern of lace worked in two thicknesses of thread; fig. 801 in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25[A], fig. 802 in Fil À pointer D.M.C No. 30[A], which is of course much thicker. As this pattern is especially suitable for trimming household articles, made of unbleached linen, such for instance as table-covers, curtains and hangings of all kinds, we prefer it made in the thicker thread; even then it looks very well as a trimming for articles of dress.

It is worked with 40 pairs of bobbins = hang them on one after the other in a row = put up a pin at point 1 = twisted linen passing = work all the pairs to point 2 with linen passing = put up the pin at the last pair = go back through 3 pairs with linen passing = twist 2 pairs once = go back with linen passing through all the pairs to point 3 = twist each pair separately = at point 4 twist the 2 pairs and put up the pin = twist the last pair twice and so on and coming back to point 5 = put up the pin = come back again to point 6 = return to point 7 = put up the pins at the two points.

Divide the 30 other pairs into twos = put up a pin between every set of two pairs = linen passing. The ground is all worked alike: twist the pairs twice = linen passing = put up the pins = linen passing to points 6 and 7 = twist the threads in taking them through = make a plait, fig. 796, for the scallop point 8 = put up a pin at the point marked for the picot = pass the thread of the outside bobbin from right to left, round the pin, to form the picot = continue the plait to the next picot = put up a pin = form the picot = continue the plait to point 9 = connect the plait with the bobbins of points 9 and 7 = make 4 linen passings with 3 pairs = continue the plait = carry the last pair to point 10 = twist the threads = make 1 linen passing = put up a pin and enclose it = go on in this manner to point 12 = make the wheel, as in figs. 789 and 790, with 6 pairs of bobbins, hanging on 4 new pairs at point 12 = work with twisted linen passing = twist the 4 pairs once and cross with linen passing = take the last pair out from the middle to point 13, join it to the first pair of the scallop = make all the wheels before continuing the ground = then go back from point 13 to 14 = cross the pairs again = at point 12 twist 4 pairs = 2 twisted linen passings right and left with the bobbins of points 14 and 15 = 1 twisted linen passing = put up the pins and work all the spiders alike.

Pillow lace insertion (figs. 803 and 804).—Hang on 12 pairs of bobbins.

Divide the bobbins and put 2 pairs at point 1 = put up a pin = twist once = 2 linen passings = from point 2 to point 8 = 5 twisted linen passings = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = lay one pair of bobbins aside = twist = 2 linen passings = 5 twisted linen passings to point 10 = 2 linen passings = twist the 2 last pairs = go back with linen passing through 2 pairs = join together with the two pairs and the first pair by means of a twisted stitch = put up the pin = lozenge stitch (for lozenge stitch in which the lozenges or close leaves are made, you take 4 or 6 threads; in the execution it resembles the darning stitch represented in figs. 646 and 647) to point 11 = twist at point 12 = take 2 pairs from point 10 = plait to point 13 = twist with the bobbins of point 1 = double passing = plait on the right, twist on the left = put up the pin = tie up as described.

Take the second pair at points 13 and 15 = put up the pin = 2 twisted double passings on the right = 2 linen passings = twist the 2 latter = put up the pin = at point 16 lay one pair of bobbins aside = with simple passing go back through 2 linen passings = join the latter and the former with linen passing = put up the pin at point 17 = lozenge stitch with the bobbins of points 15 and 17 to point 18 = connect the same at point 11 = carry on the lozenge stitch to points 19, 20 and 21 = put up a pin at each number and enclose with a linen passing = with the first pair of bobbins of point 21, 2 linen passings to the left and 2 twisted linen passings, that is to say, crossing the threads = put up the pin at point 22.