Crochet work, so called from the hook, French croche or croc, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.

Explanation of the signs *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

Crochet stitches.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of tricot-crochet.

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.

Position of the hands and explanation of (1) chain stitch (fig. 403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an 'over'.

(2) Single stitch (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.

(3) Plain stitch (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.

Rose stitch (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.

Russian stitch (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.

Ribbed stitch (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding row.

Chain stitch.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.

PiquÉ stitch.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.

Slanting stitch (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.

Crossed stitch.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

Russian crossed stitch (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.

Counterpane stitch (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.

To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

Knotted stitch (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.

Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

Loop stitch (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton À repriser D.M.C.

Plain stitches for a chain (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.

A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for mignardise when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

(4) Trebles.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro, or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also 'long stitch', and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called 'extra long stitch', connected trebles and crossed trebles.

Half trebles (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all three loops.

Trebles (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two remaining loops.

In fig. 417, we have trebles made in the same manner as fig. 416, only that instead of putting the needle under one edge of the stitch beneath, you put it under both, and between the trebles of the last row.

Double trebles or 'long stitch' (fig. 418).—Turn the thread twice round the needle, put it into a stitch of the work and bring the thread through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, three times in succession.

Triple and quadruple trebles or 'extra long stitch' (fig. 419).—For a triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a quadruple one, four times, then form the treble in the usual way by bringing the needle through two of the loops at a time. To make a series of trebles, of gradually increasing length, bring the needle, at every other treble, through the last three loops, so that before making a triple treble you will have to make columns, respectively, 1 treble, 1½ treble, 2 trebles and 2½ trebles long. Columns like these, of different lengths, are often required in crochet work, for leaves and scalloped edgings.

Connected trebles (fig. 420).—Trebles, connected together, can be worked to and fro, and take the place of plain stitches. Begin with a chain, then make a treble of the required height, form as many loops as you made overs for the treble, take up the upper thread of the stitch nearest the treble, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back to the right side and draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.

Crossed trebles (figs. 421 and 422).—Trebles of this sort produce an open stitch, which is often used for the footing of lace, or for an insertion. Make a foundation of chain, or other stitches, and proceed as follows: 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, make 1 treble in the third stitch, 5 chain, 1 over, put the needle in between the loops of the connected trebles and finish with a treble. Then make a double over, put the needle into the next loop of the preceding row, make another over, draw the needle through the loops, make another over and join the two next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an over, put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make an over, and bring the needle back to the right side.

Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2 chain, 1 over, put the needle into the upper parts of the connected trebles and finish with a treble, and so on.

These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in that case, the width of the crossed treble must correspond with the height. Generally speaking you make the trebles over the same number of stitches as you made overs on the needle, which should always be an even number.

Trebles for a chain.—A quicker way of making a wide footing for a crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following manner.

Make 4 chain stitches, 2 overs, put the needle into the first of the 4 chain, 1 over, draw the thread through the stitch *, 1 over, draw the thread through the next 2 loops and repeat twice from * = ** 2 overs, put the needle into the left bottom part of the treble, close the treble as before and repeat from **.

(5) Knot stitch (fig. 423).—This stitch which is composed of several loops forming a tuft, can only be worked from one side, consequently all one way. It looks best in a coarse material to show the interlacing of the threads.

Enter the needle through the two loops of the stitches of the bottom row, turn the thread round the needle, but away from you towards the back; bring it forward to the right side, put the needle again through one of the bottom stitches, make another over like the first and draw the needle through all the bars at once.

(6) Bullion Stitch (figs. 424 and 425).—For bullion stitch, select a needle, a little thicker towards the handle, and finer than you would use for any other crochet stitch.

Begin by making a chain of very loose stitches, then wind the thread several times, very evenly, round the needle. Insert the needle into a loop of the chain, make a single over, and draw it with the last over upon it, through all the other overs.

Trebles in bullion stitch, fig. 425, are worked in just the same manner, only that you have to turn the thread, at least 10 or 12 times round the needle and draw it through all the overs at once. To facilitate the passage of the needle, keep the overs in their place with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand.

Bullion stitch can only be worked with wool or a very fleecy thread, such as Coton À repriser D.M.C,[A]but trebles in bullion stitch can be worked in any of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

(7) Cluster stitch (fig. 426).—Generally used as an insertion between rows of plain crochet.

Put the needle under one stitch of the preceding row, make an over, draw the thread through in a loop, make another over, put the needle in again under the same stitch, bring it back, make a third over, and pass a third time under the same stitch; bring the needle back, make a fourth over and pass the needle through all the loops that are upon it.

Then, after making a chain stitch, begin the same stitch over again, placing it in the second stitch of the lower row.

Cluster stitch may also be finished off by retaining the two last loops on the needle, making an over, and ending with a plain stitch.

(8) Double stitch (fig. 427).—A rather coarse thread, such as Coton À tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10, or Fil À pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30[A] is better for this stitch than a loose fleecy thread which is apt to render it indistinct. Take up a loop right and left of a stitch of the preceding row, so that counting the loop of the last stitch, you have 3 loops on the needle, make an over and draw it through the 3 loops. Then take up a loop again by the side of the one you made on the left, and which now lies on the right. Take 2 loops in the next stitch, make an over and draw it through all the loops.

Raised stitch (fig. 428).—All the stitches that come under this heading require a foundation of a few plain rows for the raised trebles. In fig. 428, you will observe that the fourth stitch in the fourth row is a double treble, connected with a loop of the fourth stitch of the first row.

Miss the stitch of the preceding row, which is hidden under the treble, make 3 plain stitches, 1 double treble, and so on.

Having finished this row, turn the work and make a plain row. In the next row begin with 4 plain stitches, then make 1 double treble between the 3 stitches that are between the first trebles, 3 plain stitches, 2 double trebles and so on.

In the 8th row of plain stitches, the trebles must be placed in the same order as in the 4th.

Raised stitch with crossed trebles (fig. 429).—Begin, as in fig. 428, by 3 rows of plain stitches. The 4th row begins with 2 plain stitches followed by: * 1 double treble joined to the upper part of the 1st stitch of the 1st row; keep the 2 last loops of this treble on the needle; make a double over for the next treble, pass the needle through the fourth stitch of the first row, make an over, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back, finish the treble all but the last 3 loops, which you crochet together. Miss the stitch behind the treble, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Then turn the work, make one plain row, and turn the work back to the right side.

The second row of trebles begins with a plain stitch. The way in which the trebles are to be crossed is shewn in the illustration.

Raised stitch with dots (fig. 430).—After making 3 plain rows, begin the 4th with 3 plain stitches, and proceed as follows: * 6 trebles into the 4th plain stitch of the preceding row, leaving the last loop of each treble on the needle, so that altogether you have 7 loops upon it; then you turn the thread once round the needle and draw it through the loops; miss the stitch that is underneath the dot, make 3 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Then make 3 rows of plain stitches; in the 4th row, the 1st dot is made in the 4th stitch, so that the dots stand out in relief.

Raised dots with trebles (fig. 431).—Turn the work after making 3 rows of plain stitches, make 3 stitches more in the 4th stitch of the 1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last stitch of the 6th treble, put the needle into the stitch between the last plain stitch and the 1st treble, take the dropped loop of the last treble and draw it through the one on the needle; miss the stitch under the dot, make 5 plain stitches and repeat from *.

Raised dots in slanting lines (fig. 432).—On the rows of stitches that have been previously prepared, make, for the 4th stitch of the 4th row, a cluster stitch, as in fig. 426, with 1 quadruple over and then 4 plain stitches, 1 cluster stitch and so on. The next row is plain; in the second you have to make 1 plain stitch more, and fasten the cluster stitches into the loops to the left of the second of the 3 covered rows. In this way you have to make each raised stitch, one stitch, in advance and to the left of the last, so that they run in slanting lines over the surface.

Close shell stitch (fig. 433).—This pretty stitch which can only be worked in rows, all one way, is more especially suitable for children's jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of being quickly done. On a foundation of chain, or other stitches, make: 2 chain, 7 trebles on the 4th stitch, * 1 chain, 7 trebles on the 5th stitch of the last row and repeat from *.

2nd row—** 7 trebles on the chain stitch of the last row which connects 7 bars, 1 plain stitch on the 4th of the 7 trebles of the first row and repeat from **.

Picots.—The edges of most crochet work are ornamented with picots, or small points of different shapes, called severally close picots, chain picots and lace picots.

Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small, pointed, and rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots with pointed leaves.

Small rounded picots.—These may either be made separately and then sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In the first case, begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain stitch on the second and on the first chain stitch. In the second case make: 1 chain, take the needle out of the stitch and put it in from the right side, under both edges of the last stitch, take up the dropped stitch, bring it to the right side, * 3 chain; then returning: 1 plain stitch on each chain, draw the needle out, put it in from the right side into the second stitch of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the right side, and repeat from *.

Large rounded picots.—5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the 2nd and 1 treble on the 1st chain stitch.

When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing piece of work, drop the last loop and bring it back again with the needle from the wrong side to the right and miss 2 stitches, instead of one, as in the case of the small picots.

Pointed picots.—Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and missing the 6th stitch: 1 single stitch, 1 plain stitch, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble.

Picots with rounded leaves.—* 4 chain, and 3 trebles on the first stitch, and 1 single on the same stitch on which the trebles were, **, or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.

When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge, make 2 single stitches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.

Picots with pointed leaves.—6 chain, on the first chain stitch: 3 double trebles, of which you retain the two last loops on the hook, 1 over, draw the thread through the 4 loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the stitch on which the trebles are.

Chain picots.—For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain and 1 plain stitch on the first of these 5 stitches. For the large ones: 5 chain and 1 treble on the first stitch.

Picots in bullion stitch (figs. 424 and 425).—5 chain, 1 treble in bullion stitch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the 5th chain stitch.

Drooping picots (fig. 434).—5 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop, and draw it through the stitch.

Lace picots (figs. 435 and 436).—Fig. 435 represents picots formed of chain stitches, as follows: 2 chain, put the needle into the first, 1 over, bring the thread back to the front, 2 chain: * put the needle into the two loops, and at the same time, into the second loop and the first chain, draw the thread through in a loop, make 2 chain and repeat from *.

In order to make the picots more even and regular, it is advisable to form them over a coarse knitting needle or mesh.

Fig. 436 represents picots attached by plain stitches to the edge of a finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1 plain stitch, draw out the loop to the proper length for a picot, and slip it on a mesh: put the needle into the horizontal parts of the last stitches, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through in a loop, and make 1 plain stitch on the next stitch and so on.

Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet work (figs. 437 and 438).—Printed cross stitch and embroidery patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.

The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of chain stitches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain stitches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.

The squares formed by the chain stitches should always begin and end with a treble.

When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.

Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain stitches, worked in rows to and fro.

When only three colours are used, pass two threads under the stitches; when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be passed underneath the stitches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern prescribes; moreover, the last stitch before you take another colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pass the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.

Crochet with Soutache or Lacet (braid) (figs. 439 and 440).—These are two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for crochet work before.

Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red braid passes over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2 trebles, and passed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting stitch between the rows of stitches.

Crochet square (fig. 441).—Begin with 4 chain stitches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the stitch on which the two first plain are worked.

Slip the next stitch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain stitch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a stitch.

Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped stitch.

After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other stitches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.

Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.

When you use a stitch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the stitches you have just made.

Crochet hexagon (fig. 442).—Make a foundation chain of 6 stitches, join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1 single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.

Coloured star worked into a light ground (fig. 443).—Begin with 3 chain, join the ring = 2 plain on each of the 3 chain; then for the foundation, 1 plain with the dark thread, and 1 with the light on each of the 6 plain.

In each subsequent row, make one dark stitch more, increasing regularly, that is, making 2 stitches on the last light stitch that comes before the dark ones.

Proceed in this manner until you have 6 or 8 dark stitches, in all and then begin to decrease in every row by one, until there is at last only one dark stitch remaining.

These stars are used in the making of purses, cap-crowns and mats for lamps, etc.

Tunisian crochet.—Tunisian crochet is also called crochet-knitting because, you have to cast on all the first row of stitches, as in knitting.

Materials—Every kind of cotton, as well as wool and silk, can be used for Tunisian crochet: the stitches look equally well in all these materials, but for things that require frequent washing or cleaning, a good washing material should be selected, such as Coton À tricoter D.M.C and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A], both strong and suitable in all ways.

As we have already said, Tunisian crochet requires to be done with a long straight needle, with a knob at one end and it can only be worked on the right side.

Plain Tunisian crochet (fig. 444).—After making a foundation chain of the required length, begin the first, or loop row as it is called. Put the needle into the 2nd chain stitch, draw a loop through and so on, until you have taken up all the chain stitches on the needle. After having made the last stitch of the loop row, make 1 chain stitch and then pass to the second row that completes the stitch. Turn the thread round the needle, draw it through two loops, turn the thread round again, and again draw it through two loops, and so on to the end.