JOURNEY TO PARIS.

Bed-room and bed at Calais, p. 1.—Peculiarities of French towns, 2.—Journey to Boulogne, 2.—Combination of parts to form a perfect cathedral, 2.—Account of the head of St. John the Baptist, and of the bones of St. Firmin, 3.—Cathedral of Amiens, 4.—Western fronts of Churches, 6.—Comparison of French and English churches, 6.—Central towers, 6.—Unequal towers in front, 7.—Doorways, 7.—Rose windows, 9.—Ridge moulding, 10.—Effect of different styles of architecture, 10.—School-boys, 13.—Paper-hanging, 14.—Journey to Beauvais, 14.—Cathedral at Beauvais, 14.—Oblique groins, 15.—Catholic ceremonies, 16.—NÔtre Dame de Basse oeuvre, 17.—St. Stephen, 17.—Fragments of ancient architecture, 18.—Situation of Beauvais, 18.—Lodgings at Paris, 18.

Apartment at Paris, 19.—Boulevards, 20.—Gardens of the Tuileries, &c., 20.—Champs ElysÉes, 20.—Straight and winding walks, 21.—Walk through Paris, 21.—Quays, 21.—Bridges, 22.—Narrow and crooked streets, 22.—Palais Royal, 22.—CafÉ de Mille Colonnes, 23.—M. du Fourny, 23.—Effect of collections in the fine arts, 24.—Denon, 24.—BibliothÈque Royale, 25.—Humboldt, 26.—Institute, 26.—Visconti, 27.—Percier, 27.—Millin, 28.

Journey to Chalons, 29.—NÔtre Dame de Chalons, 29.—Styles of Gothic, 30.—Chevet, 31.—Change of form in the bases of the shafts or piers, 31.—Portals, 32.—Forms of piers, 32.—St. Wulfram at Abbeville, 33.—Forms of ornaments, 33.—Intersecting bases, 34.—Church at L’Epine, 35.—St. Germain des PrÉs, 36.—Pointed arches, 37.—NÔtre Dame at Chalons continued, 40.—Old monuments, 41.—Cathedral at Chalons, 42.—Italian tiles, 42.—Journey to Rheims, 42.

Church of St. Remi at Rheims, 44.—Crypt, 45.—Church at Mantes, 45.—Cathedral at Chartres, 47.—French guide-books, 47.—Shift of the Virgin, 48.—Elevation of roof in French churches, 49.—Shrine-work round the choir, 53.—Disposition of the people, 54.—NÔtre Dame at Paris, 54.—Comparison with Westminster Abbey, 57.—Cathedral at Rheims, 57.—Disposition of coloured glass, 59.—Method of judging of the comparative merits of buildings, 59.—Roman arch, 60.—Vaulted chamber, 60.

Table d’hÔte, 61.—Chouan, 62.—Promenades, 62.—Journey to Soissons, 63.—Ruined church of St. John the Baptist, 64.—Walk round the town, 64.—St. Leger, 64.—Cathedral, 64.—Anniversary of the return of Louis XVIII., 65.—Return to Paris, 65.—Jardin du Roi, 65.—Museum, 67.—Mont-martre, 68.—Mineralogic collections, 69.—Paintings of David, 69.—Excursion to Chartres, Dreux, and Mantes, 70.—Cross-road travelling, 70.—Bridge at Neuilly, 71.—Palace of St. Cloud, 71.—Botanique rurale, 72.—Versailles, 74.—Restaurateurs, 75.—CafÉ d’Apollon, 75.—Church of St. Denis, 75.—Churches at Braine sur Vesle, 77.—St. AndrÉ at Chartres, 77.—St PÈre at Chartres, 77.—Cathedral at Dreux, 78.—Church at Limay, 78.—St. Germain Auxerre, 78.—St. Jaques de la Boucherie, 78.—St. Severin, 78.—St. Martin, 78.—St. Etienne du Mont, 78.—St. Nicolas des Champs, 78.—St. Gervais, 78.—St. Eustache, 78.—Groins, 79.

Church of the Assumption, 82.—Val de Grace, 82.—Sorbonne, 82.—Invalides, 83.—Gilding, 83.—Hospital of the Invalides, 83.—Dormer windows, 83.—Hotel de Clugny, 84.—Church of the Institute, 84.—History of the Church of St. GeneviÈve, 84.—St. Roch, 92.—St. Sulpice, 92.—Illuminated statue, 93.—St. Philippe en Roule, 93.—Palace of the Tuileries, 93.—Space in French buildings, 94.—Louvre, 95.—Garde Meuble, 97.—Galleries of the Louvre, 97.—Palais de Justice, 99.—Palace of the Luxembourg, 99.—Palais du Corps Legislatif, 100.—Ecole de MÉdecine, 100.—Fountain, 101.—Hotel de Ville, 101.—Halle aux blÉs, 101.—Abattoirs, 101.—Fountains, 102.—Palais des Thermes, 102.—Aqueduct of Arcueil, 103.

Academy, 104.—SÈvres, 106.—M. Prudhom’, 107.—Gallery of M. Sommariva, 107.—Theatres, 107.—Signs, 108.—Festivals, 108.—Religious opinions, 109.—Illuminations, 111.—Liberty of the French, 112.—Political opinions, 113.

Journey to Troyes, 115.—Cathedral, 116.—Progress of crenated ornament, 118.—Church of La Madelaine, 118.—St. Urbain, 119.—Journey to Dijon, 119.—Cathedral, 120.—Church of St. Michel, 120.—NÔtre Dame, 121.—Working tradesmen, 124.—Journey to Lyon, 124.—Cathedral at Chalons sur Saone, 125.—Church at Tournu, 125.—Approach to Lyon, 126.

Cathedral at Lyon, 127.—Rose and marigold windows, 128.—St. Paul, 130.—St. Nizier, 130.—Imitation of Roman mouldings, 131.—Church at Aynai, 131.—Hotel de ChevriÈre, 132.—Roman aqueduct, 132.—Crypt under church of St. Irene, 132.—Museum, 133.—Deficiency of general knowledge among the French, 133.—Country about Lyon, 133.—CafÉs, 134.—French politeness, 134.—Theatre, 135.—Relicks, 135.—Constructions in PisÉ, 136.

Voyage to Vienne, 137.—Bridge, 137.—Church of St. AndrÉ le Bas, 137.—Ancient temple, 138.—Pyramid, 138.—Roman arch, 138.—Roman fragments, 138.—Cathedral, 138.—Elevated platform, 139.—Church of St. Michel, 141.—Churches by the Rhone, 141.—Value of the Louis, 141.—Voyage down the Rhone, 141.—Ferries, 142.—Descent of the Rhone, 143.—Pont St. Esprit, 143.—Mummies, 143.—Orange, 144.—Triumphal arch, 144.—Roman and Greek capitals and bases, 145.—Theatre, 146.—Circus and amphitheatre, 147.—Walk to Avignon, 147.—Voyage to Beaucaire, 148.—Beaucaire, 148.—Quack, 149.—Castle of Beaucaire, 150.—Tarrascon, 150.—Advertisement, 150.—Maison carrÉe at Nismes, 151.—Temple of Diana, 151.—Public garden, 152.—Idea of comfort, 152.—Amphitheatre, 152.—Roman gateway, 153.—Tour magne, 153.

Pont du Garde, 154.—Journey to Arles, 154.—Arles, 154.—Amphitheatre, 155.—Theatre, 155.—Capitol, 156.—Obelisk, 157.—Remains of baths, 157.—Sarcophagi, 157.—Journey to St. Remi, 159.—Arch, 159.—Sepulchral monument, 160.—Vaucluse, 160.—Roman monuments mentioned by Millin, 161.—Chronological arrangement of buildings in the South of France, 161.—NÔtre Dame de Dom, 162.—Cavern-like Gothic, 163.—Church at Orange, 164.—Cathedral at Arles, 164.—Church at Tarrascon, 165.—Cathedral at Nismes, 165.—Church at St. Remi, 166.—Cathedral at Valence, 166.—Cathedral at Vienne, 167.—Inversion of ornament, 167.

Bridge at Avignon, 168.—Collections at Avignon, 169.—Papal palace, 169.—Tower of massacre, 169.—Journey to Grenoble, 170.—Grenoble, 171.—Visit to the Grande Chartreuse, 171.—Tomb of Bayard, 173.—Journey to Geneva, 174.—General observations on the French, 174.—Persecution of the Protestants at Nismes, 175.

Neighbourhood of Geneva, 178.—The Saleve, 178.—Ferney, 178.—Geneva, 179.—Church of St. Pierre, 179.—Walk to Chamounix, 181.—Waterfalls, 182.—Effects of sunset on the snow, 183.—Glacier, 183.—Montanvert and Mer de Glace, 185.—Walk to Martigny, 186.—TÊte noire, 186.—Goitres, 186.—Pissevache, 187.—Vallais, 187.—Bex, 187.—Direction of valleys, 187.—Salt springs, 188.—Walk to Meillerie, 188.—Lausanne, 189.—Cathedral at Lausanne, 189.

Ride to Bern, 191.—Fribourg, 191.—Bern, 191.—Models of Mountains, 191.—Gymnasium, 191.—Ride to Thun, 192.—Unterseen, 192.—Lauterbrunnen, 193.—Staubbach, 193.—Avalanche, 193.—Wengern Alp, 194.—Alp, 194.—Grindelwald, 195.—Castle of Unspunnen, 195.—Niesen, 196.—Kanderthal, 196.—Gemmi, 196.—Baths of Loetsch, 197.—Vallais, 197.—Rainbow, 197.—Simplon, 197.—Swiss churches, 198.—Swiss cottages, 198.—Duomo d’Ossola, 198.—Via crucis, 198.—Walk to Locarno, 199.—Lago maggiore, 200.—Borromean islands, 200.—Statue of St. Charles, 201.—Walk to Lugano, 201.—Lake of Lugano, 202.—Walk to Menaggio, 203.—Lake of Como, 203.—Villa Pliniana, 203.—Walk to Como, 204.

Cathedral, 205.—Effect of gloom, 209.—View from roof, 210.—Steeple of St. Godard, 210.—Ornamental arches, 211.—Church of the Passione, 211.—Iron ties, 211.—Roodloft, 212.—Madonna di S. Celso, 212.—Courts, 212.—San Satyro, 212.—Sant Eustorgio, 212.—Saint Ambrose, 213.—Want of elevation in churches in Italy, 214.—Funeral, 214.—Madonna delle grazie, 216.—Painting of Last Supper, 217.—Church of St. Mark, 217.—Palace of government, 218.—Colours, 218.—Brera, 219.—Arches upon columns, 219.—Italian painting, 219.—Great hospital, 220.—Roman columns, 220.—Mosaics, 220.

Canal from Milan to Pavia, 221.—Cathedral at Pavia, 221.—Church of the Carmine, 221.—San Francesco, 222.—San Salvadore, 222.—San Michele, 222.—San Pietro in Cielo d’Oro, 222.—Church erected by Pellegrino Pellegrini, 223.—University, 223.—Bridge over Ticino, 223.—Botanic garden, 223.—Certosa, 223.

Journey to Verona, 225.—Theatre at Brescia, 225.—Lago di guarda, 225.—Amphitheatre at Verona, 225.—Roman gateway, 227.—Bridges, 227.—Church of Santa Anastasia, 227.—Cathedral, 228.—Church of St. Zeno, 229.—Cloisters of St. Zeno, 231.—Old church of St. Zeno, 231.—Tomb of Pepin, 232.—Remains of the Bishop’s Palace, 232.—Pellegrini chapel, 232.—Relicks, 233.—San Fermo, 235.—Freedom in examining churches, 236.—Tombs of the Scaligers, 236.—Sanmicheli, 236.—Fortification, 237.—Palaces, 237.—Tomb of Juliet, 237.

Journey to Vicenza, 238.—Vicenza, 238.—Lombard money, 239.—Palladio, 239.—Basilica, 240.—Palazzo Capitanale, 241.—Fabbrica Conte Porto al Castello, 241.—Palazzo Tiene, 241.—Triumphal arch, 242.—Church of Madonna del Monte, 242.—Rotonda, 242.—Palazzo Valmarana, 243.—Palazzo Trissino, 243.—Palazzo Barbarano, 244.—House of Palladio, 244.—Palazzo Chiericati, 244.—Palazzo del Conte Orazio da Porto, 244.—Olympic theatre, 244.—Church of Santa Corona, 245.—Cathedral, 245.—Padua, 245.—Church of St. Antony, 246.—Church of the Eremitani, 247.—Church of the Arena, 247.—Baptistery, 247.—Palazzo di Ragione, 247.—Church of Santa Giustina, 248.—Cathedral, 248.—Church of La Madre Dolente, 249.—University, 249.—Tomb of Antenor, 249.—Museum of the Palazzo Gazzola, 249.—Painting, 249.

Journey to Venice, 251.—Venice and Venetian life, 251.—Italian theatre, 253.—Piazza di San Marco, 255.—Orologio, 256.—Campanile, 256.—Church of St. Mark, 256.—Ducal palace, 261.—Harbour and canal of the Giudecca, 262.—Venetian palaces, 263.

Gondolas, 265.—Santa Maria gloriosa de’ Frari, 265.—Santi Giovanni e Paolo, 266.—S. Stefano, 266.—Santa Maria del Carmine, 266.—San Zaccaria, 267.—Ducal palace, 267.—San Jacopo in Rivo alto. 268.—Scuola di San Rocco, 269.—Procuratie Vecchie, 269.—Zecca, 270.—Procuratie Nuove, 270.—Campanile, 270.—Loggia, 270.—Sansovino, 271.—Church of San Martino, 271.—San Giorgio de’ Greci, 271.—Church of San Francesco della Vigna, 271.—Redentore, 272.—St. George, 273.—S. Nicola de’ Tolentini, 273.—San Pietro in Castello, 274.—S. Simeon Piccolo, 274.—Santa Maria del Rosario, called Gesuati, 274.—San Barnaba, 274.—Santa Maria della Salute, 274.—Santissimo Salvadore, 275.—Prigione Nuove, 275.—Lions, 275.—Pictures, 276.—Painted outsides of houses, 277.

Journey to Bologna, 278.—Residence at Bologna, 279.—Roman money, 279.—Paintings of Bolognese school, 280.—Church of San Petronio, 280.—San Stefano, 282.—San Giacomo maggiore, 283.—Cathedral, 283.—San Giorgio, 283.—San Salvadore, 284.—San Paolo, 284.—San Bartolommeo, 284.—San Domenico, 284.—Madonna del Monte, 284.—Portico, 285.—Certosa, 285.—Palazzo Ranuzzi, 285.—Torre degli Asinelli, 285.—Torre Garisendi, 285.—Disputations in Romish church, 286.—State of Italy, 286.—Superstition at Bologna, 291.—Mezzofanti, 292.

Journey from Bologna, 294.—Vetturino system, 294.—Apennines, 294.—Italian time, 295.—Florence, 295.—Cathedral, 295.—Different notions of antiquity, 299.—Campanile, 299.—Baptistery, 299.—Church of Santa Croce, 300.—San Remigio, 301.—Santi Apostoli, 301.—Unfinished fronts, 301.—Santa Maria Novella, 301.—San Lorenzo, 302.—Sagrestia nuova, 304.—M. A. Buonarroti, 304.—Burying-place of the Medici, 304.—Church of Santo Spirito, 305.—Annunziata, 306.—Madonna del Carmine, 306.—St. Mark, 307.—Cose stupende, 307.—Old nobility of Florence, 307.—Palazzo Vecchio, 308.—Loggia, 308.—Gallery, 309.—Palazzo Pitti, 309.—Palazzo Riccardi, 309.—Palazzo Strozzi, 310.—Palazzo Pandolfini, 310.—Casa Michelozzi, 311.

Fiesole, 312.—Journey to Siena, 312.—Siena, 313.—Gutturals, 313.—Piazza, 313.—Cathedral of Siena, 313.—Hospital, 315.—Church of San Domenico, 315.—History of Siena, 315.—Neighbourhood of Siena, 315.—Ventriloquist, 316.—Radicofani, 317.—Acquapendente, 317.—Lake of Bolsena, 318.—Bolsena, 318.—Monte Fiascone, 319.—Orvieto, 319.—Cathedral, 319.—Bishop’s palace, 321.—Church of San Michele, 322.—Church of San Domenico, 322.—Church of San Lorenzo, 322.—Well of Sangallo, 322. Palazzo Soliana, 322.—Pal. Gualtieri, 322.—Bollicame, 322.—Viterbo, 323.—Cathedral, 323.—Church of the TrinitÀ, 323.—S. Francesco, 323.—Monte Cimino, 323.—Lake of Vico, 323.—Capraruola, 323.—Church of the Teresiane, 324.—Ronciglione, 324.—Campagna, 324.—Sutri, 324.—Amphitheatre, 325.—Subterranean church, 325.—Bridge, 325.—Baccano, 326.—Arrival at Rome, 326.

General impressions, 327.—Capitol, 327.—Palatine hill, 328.—Disposition of hills, 329.—Lodging, 330.—Steps of the TrinitÀ, 330.—Forum, 330.—Capitoline hill, 331.—Tabularium, 331.—Temple of Jupiter Tonans, 331.—Richness of detail in Roman architecture, 332.—Temple of Concord, 332.—Arch of Septimius Severus, 333.—Mamertine prisons, 333.—Column of Phocas, 334.—Temple of Saturn, 334.—Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, 334.—Temple of Romulus and Remus, 335.—Jupiter Stator, 335.—Form of shaft of the columns, 337.—Effect of slight variations, 337.—Temple of Peace, 338.—Progress of architecture in Rome, 338.—Arch of Titus, 340.—Temple of Venus and Rome, 341.—Coliseum, 341.—Arch of Constantine, 342.—Baths of Titus, 342.—Vivarium, 344.—Baths of Livia, 345.—Palace of the CÆsars, 345.

Temple of Romulus, 346.—Forum Boarium, 346.—Arch of Janus, 347.—Arch of the goldsmiths, 347.—Cloaca maxima, 347.—Temple of Patrician Modesty, 348.—Temple of Vesta, 348.—Foliage of the Corinthian capital, 349.—Greek and Roman styles of ornament, 349.—Temple of Fortuna Virilis, 350.—House of Rienzi, 350.—Pons Palatinus, 350.—Temples of Filial Piety, &c. 350.—Theatre of Marcellus, 351.—Theatre of Pompey, 351.—Portico of Octavia, 351.—Baths of Agrippa, 351.—Pantheon, 352.—Use of bricks, 353.—Use of discharging arches, 353.—Pyramidal form in buildings, 354.—Coffers on domes, 357.—Basilica of Antoninus, 359.

History of the building, 361.—Model, 362.—Expense, 365.—Cracks, 366.—Sacristy, 367.—Cause of its want of apparent magnitude externally, 369.—Internally, 372.—Sculpture in the church, 374.—Change of design from Greek to Latin cross, 377.—Gilding, 378.—Effect of magnificence, 380.—PietÀ of Michael Angelo, 380.—Monuments, 380.—Mosaic, 381.

San Paolo fuori delle mura, 383.—Churches visited to obtain indulgences, 383.—Churches which have the Porta santa, 383.—Patriarchal churches, 383.—Ancient basilica of St. Peter, 386.—St. John Lateran, 387.—Corsini chapel, 388.—Cloisters, 388.—Scala santa, 389.—Triclinium, 390.—Baptistery of Constantine, 390.—Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 390.—Santa Maria in Trastevere, 391.—S. M. di Ara Coeli, 391.—San Grisogono, 392.—Quattro santi, 393.—San Pietro in Vincolis, 393.—Figure of Moses, 394.—Santa Agnese fuori delle mura, 394.—Temple of Bacchus, 395.—San Lorenzo fuori delle mura, 396.—Santa Maria Maggiore, 397.—Chapels, 399.—Santa Sabina, 399.—St. Clement, 400.—Small courts, 400.—San Martino de’ Monti, 401.—Baths of Trajan, 401.—Santa Pudenziana, 401.—Santa Prassede, 402.—Santa Maria in Domnica, 402.—Marble boat, 402.—San Giorgio in Velabro, 402.—Ancient towers, 402.

Roman life, 404.—Play at Orphan school, 407.—Carnival, 407.—Race, 408.—Festina, 409.—Display of military authority, 410.—Italian language, 410.—Climate, 411.—Roman churches, 412.—Method of lighting, 413.—Church of S. Andrea, 414.—St. Ignazio, 415.—Church of the Jesuits, 416.—Santi Apostoli, 417.—Santa Agnese in Piazza Navona, 417.—San Carlo alle quattro fontane, 417.—Sant Andrea del Noviziato, 418.—Santa Maria di Consolazione, 418.—Three smaller churches, 418.—Santa Maria in Campitelli, 418.

Roman spring, 419.—Easter ceremonies, 419.—Benediction, 425.—Vatican palace, 426.—Sistine chapel, 426.—Galleries of Vatican, 428.—Arazzi of Raphael, 428.—Camere of Raphael, 429.—Loggie of Raphael, 430.—Mode of considering paintings, 430.—Museum, 432.—Statues, 433.—Greek and Roman schools of art, 434.—Library, 436.—Omission of cornice, 437.

General observations, 438.—Campidoglio, 439.—Museum, 442.—Cancellaria, 443.—Palazzo Giraud, 444.—Sora, 444.—Stoppani, 444.—Massimi, 445.—Farnesina, 445.—Architecture of Sangallo, 446.—Palazzo Saccheti, 446.—Farnese, 446.—Competitions, 447.—Architecture of Giulio Romano, 448.—Palazzo Cenci, 448.—Architecture of Vignola, 449.—Court of Palazzo Farnese, 449.—Church of Sant Andrea, 449.—Villa Giulia, 449.—Palazzo Alessandrini, 450.—Ruspoli, 450.—Quirinale, 450.—Combination of colours, 451.—Horses of Phidias and Praxiteles, 452.—Palazzo della Consulta, 452.—Architecture of Fontana, 453.—Palace of St. John Lateran, 453.—Sapienza, 453.—Architecture of Bernini, 454.—Palazzo della Propaganda, 454.—Ghigi, 454.—Barberini, 454.—Architecture of Borromini, 454.

Piazza di Spagna, 456.—Piazza del popolo, 456.—Public gardens, 457.—French academy, 457.—Church of the TrinitÀ de Monti, 458.—Capuchin convent, 458.—Piazza Barberini, 458.—Quirinal hill, 459.—Viminal, 459.—Esquiline, 459.—Church of St. Antony, 459.—Trophies of Marius, 459.—Arch of Gallienus, 459.—Temple of Pallas, 460.—Temple of Mars Ultor, 460.—Baths of Paulus Æmilius, 461.—Forum of Trajan, 461.—Column of Trajan, 462.—Basilica of Trajan, 462.—Church of Nome di Maria, 463.—Church of Santa Maria di Loreto, 463.—Effect of gilding, 463.—Sepulchre of C. P. Bibulus, 463.—Colonna palace, 463.—Baths of Constantine, 464.—Enormous fragment, 464.—Fountain of Trevi, 465.—Loggia of the Palazzo Rospigliosi, 465.