1. Windows in the roof. 2. I do not understand what is here meant by the frieze, and there appears to be some error, since the sum of the heights, of the parts, is made rather to exceed the whole height. 3. Rivoire gives his dimensions in feet and in metres, which in this instance do not agree. I have, throughout, followed the metres. 4. Page 42. 5. Not however to be compared with the Southwark Bridge, since erected in our metropolis. 6. Copied from the journal of a friend. 7. On my return he was engaged in preparing etchings for publication from these subjects; they were done on stone, and are by far the most beautiful things of that sort I ever saw: the effects both of pen and chalk are faithfully given, and it is not too much to say that they preserve all the spirit and sentiment of the originals. 8. Something of this may be seen in York-Minster, and the western extremity of the cathedral at Strasburg, with the tower, exhibits this, and many other characters of this style. 9. Whittington, p. 87, et seq. 10. In 1826 I found it newly repaired and decorated, and the impression produced was very different. 11. Whittington, p. 147, et seq. 12. See Whittington, p. 124, et seq. 13. To Sawkerf is to wear away the stone at the joints by the introduction of a saw; the weight above, thus deprived of its support on the external face of the work, sinks down on to the internal mass of the wall or pier. 14. They have since been considerably altered. 15. These paintings have been since removed to the Louvre, and the rooms are now filled with modern productions. 16. When I first visited Paris, this place was so blocked up with tubs and barrels, that I could hardly walk about; and on my return, not being aware that any alteration had been made, I did not visit it. I am indebted to my friend Mr. Scott for the following description of it in a more accessible condition:— “The ruins of the Palais des Thermes, in the Rue de la Harpe, are very extensive. They consisted originally in baths of water and vapour, but till about three years ago, were occupied as wine vaults. The French government at that time purchased a considerable portion of them, and has since built stone props and arches to sustain whatever seemed in danger of falling. In the centre is a spacious, lofty, vaulted hall, without any key-stone; the walls are extremely thick, formed of rubble and squared stones, and at certain intervals are layers, each of four courses of brick-work: the whole is cemented by a mortar of extreme hardness; the bricks are of various colours, from light yellow to dark brownish red, and admirably made. The disposition of the bathing recesses, alternately rectangular and semicircular, along the walls, the tubes both for water and vapour, and the channels for the former to flow off, may still be clearly perceived. At the springing of the vault, at each corner of the large hall, is a large stone, carved in the shape, and with the ornaments of a Roman galley. One of the smaller apartments, about 18 feet by 15 in dimension, is the most astonishing object in these ruins. The floor is perfectly flat, both as to its upper and under surfaces; it is about one foot thick, composed of rubble and mortar, without beam, joist, or large stone; it is not inserted into the wall, but merely presses laterally against it, and this floor not only sustains itself, and has sustained itself for at least fifteen centuries, but it has also resisted the passage of loaded carts over it. “In the vaults of the building, is to be seen the aqueduct which brought a supply of fine water from beyond Arcueil to Lutetia, and as far as the subterraneous part is concerned, in perfect preservation.” 17. Huyot afterwards accompanied the mission of Count Forbyn into the east; he had, I believe, the misfortune to break his leg at Smyrna, and was left there on that account; but not discouraged, he resumed alone, the task of examining the monuments of that country. 18. My notes were not clear, and I am afraid I have made some confusion between this church and St. AndrÉ le Bas, above-mentioned. 19. The cloisters of St. John Lateran, and of St. Paul fuori delle mura at Rome, are of a character very similar to this. They are said to be of the twelfth century, but I know not on what authority. 20. The domes of the little churches in Greece rise in this manner from an octagonal tower. 21. Menard says it had seven sides.
The sides of the octagon above are each 17 French feet. 22. Millin. 23. Even this was not effected on my return to Paris in 1819. 24. Of course this was written long before the events of 1820. In the clamours for the Charte, that feeling seemed to be excited, or at least such clamours would tend to excite it, but the ministers of the day did all they could to stifle it. 25. 1,422 toises, equal to 9,080 English feet above the sea. See Nouvel ItinÉraire des VallÉes autour du Mont Blanc, par J. P. PictÉ, a useful little manual. 26. This was much improved in 1826. 27. The model made by General Pfyffer at Lucern may perhaps be an exception. One may see, at the first glance, from the finely varied characters of the different mountains, how carefully nature has been studied. 28. The batz is in value equal to about three halfpence, but it varies in the different cantons. 29. It is, probably, this smaller chesnut which Mr. Rose has taken for horse-chesnuts, which assuredly do not enter into the common food of the Italians; indeed the tree is of rare occurrence. 30. These measures are reduced from some in French feet; those in Braccia agree so little with them, that I thought it better to give both. The Milanese Braccio is about 23½ English inches. 31. The word order, as here used, includes the column with its entablature, and the pedestal, if there is one; all which goes to make up one of the Grecian orders of architecture. 32. The precinction is a broad step, leaving a passage behind the seated spectators. 33. He reckons, I suppose, the fourteenth, fifteenth, sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth. 34. This was towards the end of the year 1816, a period of great distress in Italy. 35. I do not understand this term; I give it as I find it in a little account of the church, value 1¼d. 36. Some notices of this city will be found in Letter XXXIX. 37. Yet this is nearly the arrangement of the cathedral at Florence, but the Bolognese church would have been larger. 38. The observations on Florence were made principally on a subsequent visit, but I thought it better to unite them together. 39. Sopra gli occhi che sono sopra le porte. 40. In 1826 I found it once more a church, and it contains a curious Gothic altar. 41. 160 br. long. 54 br. wide. 98 br. transept. 42. These fine woods have been since burnt down, to do honour, as I was informed, to the Emperor of Austria, on his visit to Rome in 1819. My informant, (who was then my fellow traveller) was a man of sense and of a cultivated mind, yet he could not enter into my feelings, in preferring a noble wood to the blackened stumps. 43. Joggles are projecting parts on the lateral surface of some of the stones forming the arch, fitted into corresponding recesses in the surface of the adjoining stone. They are only now used, where we wish to obtain the strength of an arch, without the appearance of one. 44. Other restorations in a better style, and preserving the character of the old work, were in progress in 1826. 45. This church has since been destroyed by fire, and the beautiful marble columns destroyed; many of them seemed at first little injured, but split afterwards in different places, shewing that the substance had been partially calcined. The granite and porphyry do not seem to have stood the fire better than the marble. 46. Fea, on the contrary, cites Procopius to prove that columns existed there as late as 536. 47. I have copied these dimensions from Uggeri, but I suspect they are not correct, because in the old church he assigns 68 French feet to the width of the central nave, and 200 to the whole width of the building; while in the present, which is always understood to stand on the old foundation, reinforced perhaps, but not destroyed, the width of the nave according to the same author, is only 54 such feet, and the whole width 164. The difference, if correct, can only arise from the additional thickness of the present walls and piers. 48. “Chi visiterÀ ciascheduna delle sunnominate chiese mentre vi sarÀ l’orazione delle quarante ore, confessato e communicato, acquistera Indulgenza plenaria, e con fermo proposito di confessarsi, acquistera dieci anni ed altrettanti quarantine d’Indulgenza per ciascheduna volta come apparisce, &c.” 49. In 1826 these were chiefly filled with fragments of architecture and sculpture; the paintings having been removed into some apartments in the upper story. 50. One of these has since been carried into execution. Transcriber’s Note This book uses inconsistent spelling and hyphenation, which were retained in the ebook version. Ditto marks, dashes and spaces used to represent repeated text have been replaced with the text that they represent. Some corrections have been made to the text, including normalizing punctuation. Further corrections are noted below: p. 63: admitted in jacket and towsers-> admitted in jacket and trowsers p. 78: the downfal of Gothic architecture -> the downfall of Gothic architecture p. 202: set in a frameof magnificent mountains -> set in a frame of magnificent mountains p. 323: places were the agitation was -> places where the agitation was p. 362: shortening the the nave -> shortening the nave |