PIONEERS REACH FORT LARAMIE,—JUNE 2, 1847.

In the Redman's Country.—Indian Customs.—Hunting Became Excessive.—Description of the Bluffs.—Guide Board 409 Miles From Winter Quarters.—Chimney Rock.—Brigham Young Rebukes Card Playing and Frivolity.—Fasting and Prayer.—Arrive at Fort Laramie.—Ascending the Plateaux.—Word From the Mormon Battalion.

About the 11th of May, the pioneers found themselves in the heart of the Indians' country. The red man would naturally take some alarm at the approach of so numerous a body of men, and his presence along the route was indicated, as a rule, by the camping ground which had been deserted at the approach of the white man. Here and there solitary Indians were observed, and occasionally a small number approached the camp. The Sioux were a somewhat treacherous, warlike tribe; and following the habits of the Indian, some of their tribe would follow the pioneers for days, remaining concealed in daylight, hoping for opportunities to steal horses and cattle by night. Fortunately the pioneers adopted the most precautionary methods of guarding against the loss of their horses and cattle.

The Indians were not without some knowledge of the retreat of their ancestors before the western movement which was going on rapidly in those days. Their viewpoint therefore justifies both the fear and the dislike of the white man. The pioneers, realizing the attitude of the Indian, did all in their power to assure him of their friendship, but it was not easy on a journey such as that to cultivate any particular acquaintance. Elder Woodruff's journal shows the remarkable interest that he took in whatever related to the customs and manners of the Indians.

Speaking of the Sioux, he says: "We found ourselves traveling over their hunting grounds. Some eight or ten days prior to our encampment on the 11th of May, there had been a large band of some 500 to 1,000 located at one place. They had taken the brains out of a large buffalo. Generally they took the hide and some of the meat, and sometimes they broke the bones for the marrow. In one place we found a hundred calves with nothing taken except the tongues, the legs to the knees, and the entrails. In another place thirty-five buffalo calves were found dead where they had been washed up in heaps in their unsuccessful effort to cross the river. On one of the bluffs, I found a medicine bag tied to a stick six feet long, the stick having been stuck into the bank. I also found a saddle tied to a large buffalo for the purpose, I supposed, of showing the next party of Indians which direction the buffaloes had gone.

"Wishing to explore the country somewhat, I left my horse to feed in the valley while I went on to an elevated bluff. While gone, the horse started off, and not seeing the camp, took an opposite direction and I was compelled to run after him. In doing this, I ran through a great camping ground of the Sioux where lodges had been on their hunting expeditions. Here I left my gun and followed my horse until I overtook him. On my return I examined the ground more minutely and estimated that there had been something like 500 lodges. There were acres of ground covered with buffalo wool where they had dressed the skins of buffaloes and wolves, etc. I brought in a good dressed white wolf skin with me. The day following, many of the brethren went out and brought in parts of robes, leather, etc., which had been left. The next day, the pioneers made a journey of eleven miles. The bluffs, for the first time on the journey along the north fork, came boldly up to the river front so that we were obliged to go over these bluffs with our wagons.

"There is one thing concerning the Platte River worthy of note. It is much of the way a mile in width, generally covered with water, but very shallow. When the south wind blows hard, the water all rushes to the north shore so that one would suppose that there was a great rise in the tide. When the wind shifts to the north, the water immediately recedes from the north shore until one can walk across two-thirds of the river on bare ground. Thus the river constantly ebbs and flows like a tide.

"Early on the morning of the 14th, I went out to hunt buffaloes and returned to breakfast and started out again with Phineas Young. I was lost among the bluffs, but after a time, found my way out again. Brother Phineas shot a buck antelope which I carried into camp. All told, three antelopes and one buffalo were killed. Some of the hunters thought they heard Indian guns during the night on the opposite side of the river. An Indian had gone up to a pair of mules that were tied together and grabbed at them, but the mules sprang back and got out of the way. One of the guards shot at him and he ran. All the horses were then brought into the circle of our camp and the cannon prepared, but no Indian being seen, it was not fired."

Such a large company would naturally be conspicuous to the Indians, and no doubt the sound of music in those solitary regions attracted them, as the camp was often animated in the evening by the sounds of music from all parts. On the morning of the 15th, bear foot tracks were seen in large numbers. That day the distance covered was only eight miles. This short distance was due in part to the difficulty encountered in crossing over the numerous bluffs along the river. In those regions there was nothing to break the cold, raw winds that came from the north. Civilization had not then set up its wind breaks, and the winds made the climate often quite disagreeable away into the month of May.

"Sunday, the 16th of May," he says, "was cold. With Brothers Young, Kimball, Benson, Rockwell, and Stephens, I rode four miles over the bluffs to pick out a road for the pioneers that they might again get on to the bottom land. We had a good meeting in the afternoon and the laws of the camp were read. One of the brethren had shot an antelope and a buffalo. It was a violation of the camp to go hunting on the Sabbath. The 17th was warm and pleasant, but the road was difficult. For two and a half miles we drove through sand bluffs and again struck the bottom land four and a half miles from the camping place. The hunters brought in three buffaloes which detained the camp for some time. President Young was not pleased with the excessive hunting, as they already had much meat in the camp. Large herds of deer were seen in the valley, more than had been seen before. A young fawn was picked up and brought into camp. I led the company of pioneers mostly through the bluffs in the morning before Brothers Young and Kimball came up. Upon their arrival, we rode together all day picking out the road.

"The next day the camp was called together and President Young reproved sharply the hunters for killing more game than was necessary, for detaining the camp, and because of their indifference in helping to pick out the road. He said there were but two men who had manifested any interest in helping to get the pioneers along. Afterward the horsemen went forward to pick out the road instead of hunting, and I did not hear a gun fired during the day."

The spring was well advanced and rain began to take the place of wind. Elder Woodruff in his journal entry of May 19th says: "We encountered today the worst sandhill on the journey; and what made it worse, the rain was pouring down continuously. We had more rain today than during the whole journey. I rode forward during the day, picking out the road. We made eight miles.

"Next morning we made seven miles and nooned near Ash Creek, on the south side of the river where the Oregon road first strikes the north fork of the Platte. Several of the brethren went over in the boat, which we were taking along, to examine the rocky bluffs, roads, creek, etc.

"In the afternoon, we traveled eight and three-quarters miles and camped for the night. We had a very good road most of the day on the bank of the river. There was a good deal of rocky bluff on both sides of the river, and some on the south side was formed into natural terraces, rotundas, squares, etc., from fifty to a hundred feet high and looked like good foundations for fortifications and strong-holds. They resemble the works of art and look something like the old castles of England and Scotland. They were level on the top. There is a beautiful Cedar Island in the river a short distance above Ash Creek which is a good landmark to show travelers where the Oregon road strikes the river."

Near by the nooning place was a cedar tree in the branches of which an Indian child was deposited for burial. Along with it were utensils necessary for its future enjoyment.

On the 21st a large petrified bone was found. It was the leg bone from the knee down. Its length was seventeen and a half inches, greatest width eleven inches, greatest thickness six inches, its weight was twenty-seven pounds.

"Before we left the encampment in the morning, Brother Clayton put up a guide board for the benefit of the next company. 'From Winter Quarters, 409 miles; from the Junction 93 1/4 miles; Cedar Bluff 36 1/2; Ash Creek 8 miles and 133 from Fort Laramie.' When we reached our camping place for the night, two Indians came up from the bluffs, making signs for us to come to them. It was a Sioux Indian and his squaw. They talked by signs and went away.

"Our road on the journey the day following was very straight, but we came over two and a half miles of the worst sand hill that we had passed. The bluffs presented the most singular natural scenery I had ever beheld in all my travels. They had the appearance of the old walls and ruins of the castles of Europe.

"The next day was Sunday the 23rd. In company with Brigham Young and the Twelve, I visited the top of the highest bluff ruins that were opposite our encampment, which were truly a curiosity. We had a fair view of Chimney Rock from where we were. I carried a bleached buffalo's head on the top and we wrote upon it our names and the distance from several places. Orson Pratt took a barometrical observation on the solitary cedar tree on the top of the bluff ruins.

"The camp met at half past eleven in the morning for Sabbath services. Erastus Snow addressed the meeting, followed by President Young who said he was satisfied that the Lord was with us and leading us. He had never seen a company of people more united than the camp had been thus far on the journey, that we should pluck the fruit of the mission through all eternity, that he had many things to teach us but could not do it except in a stake of Zion, but he was well satisfied with his brethren and the Twelve, and the camp at large. One thing he would say to the praise of the company and that was that not one had refused to obey his counsel on the journey. His peace with God was continually like a river, and he felt that the spirit of peace rested upon the whole company. Several others spoke and the meeting was then dismissed.

"We intended to ride out in the evening, but saw that a storm was gathering. It began to blow very hard and it was all we could do to save our wagon bows and covers from being destroyed. It continued for about an hour and then rained for another hour accompanied by hail. I covered all my horses with all the blankets I could get, and got up several times in the night to see them. It rained occasionally and the horses shook with cold, but when morning came all were alive and we continued our journey.

"As soon as we camped at noon, two Indians came to the camp. They were Sioux and well dressed and clean. We gave them dinner and they left. We camped at night near the Quicksand Mountain, making sixteen and one half miles that day. I rode about two miles forward to find grass and a camping ground, and on my return saw about thirty Sioux plunge their horses into the river on the opposite side and made towards us. I rode with several others to the river and met them as they came out. They shook hands with us very friendly. The chief unfurled a large American flag with the eagle, stars, and stripes and presented me a letter written in French which we, however, made out. They were all well dressed and the chief was in a military coat. The brethren brought a white flag and planted it by the side of theirs. They wanted to go into camp. We proposed for five of them to go and the rest to remain, but they all wished to go, so we let them and gave them supper. They were in camp all night, but were good and stole nothing.

"Some trading was done with the Sioux next morning and we gave them breakfast. They behaved well also when we started across the river. I had to keep my carriage today having the rheumatism in my shoulders and back, and my teeth ached.

"We nooned next day, Tuesday, May 25th, in good grass two miles above Chimney Rock; and I rode with Brothers Kimball and Benson to look out a road. By our imperfect measurement by a trigonometrical observation by the sextant, Professor Pratt made Chimney Rock to be two hundred and sixty feet above the level of the river.

"Just before camping at noon while traveling on a smooth prairie, an Indian horse that was bought of the Sioux ran away with a singletree at his heels and gave tremendous fright to the cows, oxen and horses. In an instant a dozen or more wagons were darting by each other like lightning and the horses and mules dashing over the ground, some turning to the right and some to the left and some ran into other wagons. The horses and mules that Brother Fowler was driving leaped by my carriage like electricity and came within one inch of a collision with my wheels which would have made a wreck. Another wagon with a pair of mules and a yoke of cattle dashed by which would also have smashed my carriage had they locked. By this time, my own horses started to run, but were held back by the driver. Fowler's wagon continued regardless of rough or smooth ground about fifty rods, he being dragged the whole distance by the bit which was the case with many others; but all were soon stopped and returned to their lines without accident which appeared truly a miracle. A person can hardly conceive the power manifested by animals, especially mules, in such a fright. It gave us some idea of what an Indian yell would do in a camp with teams hitched to wagons.

"Brother Kimball and myself picked the road during our journey of the following morning, and in the afternoon I piloted as straight as any road yet made on the whole route, and picked out a camping ground on the bank of the river in good feed. It should be understood that we were pioneering a road for the whole House of Israel to travel over for many years to come and it required, therefore, the greatest care in marking the route.

"A cold rainy morning followed and we concluded not to start until the rain stopped. We remained till 10 o'clock and traveled eleven and one-half miles and camped for the night. During the evening, President Young called at my fire, and seeing several brethren playing dominoes in a wagon near by, he began to teach, saying that the devil was getting power over the camp which had for several days given way to cards and dominoes, etc., and that if they did not speedily repent, their works, labors, and journey would be in vain. He said that to be sure the camp did not quarrel, for the devil would not set them at that as long as he could draw them gradually away from their duty and fill them with nonsense and folly, for the devil was very cunning in winning away the people of God. I felt the force of his remarks.

"During the evening I went into Dr. Richards' wagon and read a chapter in the Book of Mormon and prayed with him, after which President Young, H. C. Kimball, Willard Richards, E. T. Benson, and myself met in council in Brother Brigham's wagon. President Young wrote some of the words of the Lord concerning the camp and expressed his views and feelings—that they must speedily repent or they would be cursed, that they were forgetting their mission, and that he would rather travel with ten righteous men who would keep the commandments of the Lord than the whole camp while in a careless manner and forgetting God. We stayed together until ten o'clock.

"Next morning President Young called the camp together and required each captain separately to call out his men and when all were present, except two who had gone out hunting, he addressed them in something like the following words:

'I think I will take as my text to preach my sermon from, I am about to revolt from traveling with this camp any further with the spirit they now possess. I had rather risk myself among the savages with ten men who are men of faith, men of mighty prayer, men of God, than to be with the whole camp when they forget the Lord and turn their hearts to folly and wickedness. Yes, I would rather be alone and I am now resolved not to go any farther with the camp unless you will consent to humble yourselves before the Lord and serve Him and cease your folly and wickedness. For a week past, nearly the whole camp has been card playing, and checkers and dominoes have occupied the attention of the brethren, and dancing has been going on continually.

'Now it is time to quit it. There have been trials and lawsuits upon every nonsensical thing; and if this is suffered to go on, it will be but a short time before you are fighting, knocking each other down and taking life. It is time it was stopped.

'I do not want to hear any more such reports as I heard last Sunday of men going to meeting and preaching to the rest after playing cards until meeting time. You are a pretty set of men going to look out a location among the mountains for a resting place for the Saints—even the whole Church of God—who have been driven out from the Gentiles and rejected of them. And after you have established a location, you are then going out to preach the Gospel, seal salvation upon the house of Israel, and gather the nations.

'How would you look if they should know your conduct and ask you what you did when you went to seek out Zion and find a resting place for the Saints where the standard of the Kingdom of God could be reared and her banners unfurled for the nations to gather unto?

'Did you spend a good deal of your time in dancing, pitching quoits, jumping, wrestling, and the like? Yes, yes. Did you play cards, dice, checkers, and dominoes? O, yes. What could you do with yourselves? Why you would shrink from the glance of the eyes of God, angels and men—even wicked men. Then are you not ashamed of yourselves for practicing these things? Yes, you are, and you must quit it.'

"After speaking somewhat lengthily upon these matters, President Young called the Twelve together, and the high priests, seventies, and elders. There were present eight of the quorum of the Twelve, eighteen high priests, eighty seventies, and eight elders. After this was done, President Young said unto the Twelve:

'If you are willing to humble yourselves before the Lord and consent to the right, and walk humbly before Him, make it manifest by raising the right hand.'

"Then each one raised his hand. The same question was put to the high priests, seventies, elders, and members and all consented with uplifted hands to humble themselves before the Lord, repent of their sins and keep His commandments.

"President Young then spoke of those who were not in the Church, as there were some present. They would be protected in their rights, but they must not introduce wickedness into the camp, for it would not be suffered. He also spoke of the standard and ensign that would be reared in Zion.

"Elder Kimball followed and said that the words of President Young were as the words of the Lord unto him and just as binding as though they were a written revelation, and that they were just as binding upon the whole camp as they were upon him, and he urged the pioneers to give heed to the teachings that had been given.

"Orson Pratt remarked that if the Saints had leisure hours, they could spend them to much better advantage than playing cards, as there was a world of knowledge and science to be obtained and every moment should be improved in storing the mind with some good principle. He acknowledged the teachings we had received to be of the Lord."

Elder Woodruff said: "A burned child dreads the fire. He had not forgotten his journey in the Camp of Zion in 1834; and should he live to the age of Methuselah, he should not forget the hour when the Prophet and Seer, Joseph Smith, stood upon the wagon wheel and addressed that Camp and said that because they had not hearkened unto his counsel, but disobeyed and transgressed from time to time, judgment would come and that we should be visited by the destroying angel. And so we were, and more than twenty of our members fell by the stroke and we all suffered much in our feelings. I pray the Lord I may not see another such time; and I would now advise my brethren to be careful in keeping the covenant we have made lest the word of the Lord come unto us as in the days of Joseph and we cannot escape a judgment. I would advise all the brethren who have cards and the like to burn them, for if you keep the covenants you have made, you will have no time to use them; and if you keep them for your children, they will only prove a curse to them. My prayer to God is that we may all be enabled to keep our covenants with the Lord and each other. I rejoice that the watchmen in our midst are quick to comprehend and warn of evil and reprove us when wrong that we may be saved and do the will of God."

The change in the camp it would appear was quite as sudden as a gust of wind. It was only a short time before this that the pioneers were commended for their zeal and unity. The dangers of self-satisfaction were here demonstrated. Dancing, card playing, and a hilarious life were not in consonance with the solemn mission of that band of pioneers whose journey was to be likened in years to come to the exodus of the children of Israel. That journey was to be an inspiration to generations that would follow. The Sabbath following, May 30th, was set apart for prayer and fasting.

"In the morning I shaved, cleansed my body, put on clean clothing, etc., read a chapter in the Book of Mormon, humbled myself before the Lord, and poured out my soul in prayer before Him, and His spirit descended upon me and I was blessed and prepared for the service of the day. Then I spent some time in writing in my journal.

"The camp had a prayer meeting in the morning and met again for public meeting. President Young, with the Quorum of the Twelve and a few others went into a valley of the hills and prayed according to the order of the priesthood. Porter Rockwell and Brother Carrington watched to see that no Indians came upon us. We had a good time. A heavy shower appeared, but most of it went around us and there was but little rain where we were.

"We returned to our wagons, took some refreshments, having eaten nothing all day; and soon the sun came out pleasantly. In the evening I went out two miles with the Quorum of the Twelve on to a high bluff. We had a good view of the Black Hills. There we also engaged in prayer.

"Two days afterward we camped opposite Fort Laramie. This was June 1st. When we arrived, we saw some men approaching us from the Fort. We found them to be a part of the company of Mississippi brethren who had been in Pueblo through the winter. Brother Crow and his family, seven wagons and fourteen mules were at Fort Laramie. He informed us that the remainder of the Mississippi company with a portion of the Mormon Battalion at Pueblo would start for Laramie about the 1st of June and follow our trail. He told us of four of the brethren who had died, but he had heard nothing of the main body of the Battalion.

"President Young suggested the propriety of our leaving all our ploughs at the Fort except such as we needed to use immediately when we got to our destination, and also to do our blacksmithing, mending of wagons as soon as possible so that we might go on our journey speedily. A company was appointed to attend to the herding and other branches of business.

"June the 2nd, in company with the Twelve and others, I crossed the river to visit the Fort. We examined Fort St. John which was now vacant, but was still standing. The dimensions of this Fort were 144 by 152 outside, and inside contained sixteen rooms. The largest on the north side was 93 feet long and 47 feet wide. The Oregon trail ran one rod from the S. W. corner of the Fort.

"We next visited Fort Laramie, then occupied by thirty-nine persons, mostly French who had married the Sioux. Mr. Burdoe was the superintendent. This Fort was 168 by 116 feet outside with six rooms inside. It was quite a pleasant location for a Fort.

"Mr. Burdoe was a Frenchman. He received us kindly and invited us into a large sitting room. He gave us all the information he could in relation to our route and furnished us with his flat bottom boat on reasonable terms to assist us in ferrying the Platte. He informed us that Governor Boggs and his men had much to say against the Mormons and cautioned him to take care of his horses and cattle, etc., lest they should steal them. He tried to prejudice him all he could against us. Burdoe said that Boggs' company were quarreling all the time, and most of them had deserted him. He finally told Boggs and company that let the Mormons be what they might, they could not be worse than he and his men.

"After conversing with Mr. Burdoe some time we got into the flat bottom boat, about twenty of us, and went down the Laramie Fork to its mouth about two miles and then up the Platte one-half mile to our camp. After dinner we met in council and decided that Amasa Lyman should go to Pueblo with several other brethren to meet the detachment of the Battalion that was there, and for them to come as soon as convenient to Laramie and follow our trail."

The pioneer company now found it necessary to cross the north fork of the Platte, just opposite Fort Laramie, the first permanent post erected in Wyoming. The low even country of Nebraska had been passed, and hereafter the company began its journey in Wyoming. They now found themselves ascending the great eastern plateau of the Rocky Mountain system. Thence forward there began a gradual ascent to the Rocky Mountains in which they hoped to find a safe retreat. The Fort was a trading post in the center of Indian commerce, and had been established as early as 1834. The Fort, however, was located on the Laramie Fork.

Some time was taken in exploring the region as it was to be in the future an important mile post in the journey of the Saints. The name of the river and the fort was taken from a French trapper whose name was Laramie, and who was killed by the Indians on the stream which now bears his name. The Saints presented a busy scene repairing wagons and making preparations for the ascent of the Rocky Mountains. They had kept well to the north, but the route had been established by trappers and explorers. The river afforded a water supply for their animals as well as for domestic purposes. At this time there were practically only two routes across the continent, one to southern California by way of Pueblo, the other along the present route of the Union Pacific railroad. As Oregon was a great objective point in those days, emigrants turned to the northwest before reaching Utah.

"We continued our journey on the 4th of June. The scenery grew more interesting as we began to ascend the Black Hills. Brother Robert Crow had joined us which added to our company nine men, five women, and three children, six wagons, thirteen yoke of oxen, twenty cows, three bulls, ten young cattle and horses which made our camp now one hundred and forty-eight men, eight women, five children, seventy-nine wagons, ninety-six horses, fifty-one mules, ninety oxen, forty-three cows, three bulls, nine calves, sixteen dogs, and sixteen chickens.

"As we traveled farther into the hills, they grew lofty and we began to come into an elk, bear, and mountain-sheep country. Soon after we arrived at the Springs, fifteen miles from Laramie, the first company of Missouri emigrants came up, twelve wagons of them. We journeyed ten and one-half miles farther in the after-noon. The Missouri company camped one-fourth mile below us.

"Next day was Sunday, the 6th, which we devoted to prayer and fasting, but the Missouri company of emigrants started on in the morning. The camp met for prayer-meeting at 8 o'clock and the spirit of the Lord was with the people who met again for preaching at 11 o'clock. We had a shower of rain and the meeting closed. Another company of Missouri wagons, twenty in number, passed us. The rain soon cleared off, and our company moved forward five miles and camped for the night on Bitter Creek.

"The two Missouri companies which had camped near us at night started before us in the morning, and while nooning, another company of thirteen wagons passed us. We were in a fair view of Laramie Peak with its snow covered top. We camped for the night on the Horse Shoe Creek in the best feed we had found on our journey. The hunters brought in two black-tailed deer and one antelope.

"Next day we formed a company of men and went forward with our teams and cleared the road of stone. We used pick-axes, bars, spades, etc., and it was a great help to our weak wagons. In the afternoon we traveled eight and three quarters miles over the most mountainous road on our way and then descended into the valley and camped for the night on Labent Creek where there was an abundance of timber, water, and good grass.

"Brother John Higbee went forward hunting, and saw the Missouri companies of emigrants, and when they started out they had much strife one with another in trying to start first. They did not stop to milk their cows; and in clearing up their breakfast, they strewed their meal, salt, bacon, short cake, beans, and other things upon the ground throughout their encampment; and when we came up, three wolves were feeding upon the fragments.

"In coming over the hills to-day, we found it so cold it pierced us like winter. On reaching the valley, we found fires the companies in advance had built and we piled on the wood and soon got warm. An antelope lay before us which the hunters had brought in. We carved it up with our knives, forked it on sticks, roasted it, and satisfied ourselves without the seasoning of salt.

"We started in the morning at 5 o'clock into better feed a mile farther on and we turned out our teams. The brethren did some trading with the hunters who camped near us. At 7 o'clock, fifteen of our wagons were formed into a company to go forward to make a boat to ferry the Platte. They went forward and we followed them. The traders started at the same time.

"Soon another party of traders who were direct from Sante Fe overtook us. They informed us that the Mormon Battalion was in California, that they went in January, and that Capt. Brown was in Sante Fe for money for the detachment and would come on to us as soon as possible.

"In the afternoon of the next day, President Young and Brother Kimball rode with us. Our detached company had not been heard of since last night when they camped with the fore-most company. We camped to-night, June 9th, at Deer Creek. We had good feed and our horses and cattle were gaining daily."