Fig.1 shows the plan, and Fig.2 the elevation of a part of an open or cut string. It will be seen the risers are cut like a bare face tenon 5/16 inch thick, the same thickness as the ornamental brackets, and shouldered to fit against the inside of the string. These brackets are glued and bradded to the outside face of the string, and mitred to the ends of the risers. That part of the string where the shoulder of the risers fits against, should be gauged to an exact thickness. The brackets fit close up under the ends of the treads, which project the thickness of the brackets past the strings, and mitred on the front edge to receive the return nosing and scotia, which is mitred and returned into the string, as shown at E, Fig.1. The best method to adopt is as follows:—Get the risers shouldered and mitred, then plough the treads for the scotia; now cut off the ends of the treads as far as the mitre, which mark and cut in a little way, finishing the cut after the nosing has been worked and the stairs are together. Cut in the dovetails for the balusters, but not chop them out before the stairs are fixed. Now glue in the scotia, and, when dry, put the steps together, the same as was explained in PlateIII. Then get the length of steps from the width rod, and cut them off. Gauge the risers to a width with a gauge as seen at Fig.4. Fit the steps in the wall string, and cut out for nosing and scotia. To put them together, lay the wall string on the floor, having it straight and solid; put the steps into it, and lay the outer string on, and, with struts from the ceiling or any convenient place, force the cut string on to the shoulders of the risers, and the steps into the housing of the wall string. See that the stairs are square before doing all necessary wedging, blocking, screwing, &c. Then remove the struts and put on the brackets and return nosing, glueing and bradding the former, while the latter should only have two brads into the steps, so that they can be easily removed to fix the balusters when the handrail is fixed, after which they can be permanently nailed. The iron balusters are screwed to a block fixed for the purpose. This block is marked A, Figs. 1 and 3. The riser is reduced to allow the block to come forward, so as to get the screws well into it; it is stub-tenoned into the under side of the tread, as shown by the dotted lines, Fig.3; it is also screwed into the back of the next tread below, and well glued and blocked. There will have to be a special baluster turned, out of pine, for a pattern, and turned a little longer to allow for shrinkage in the casting, which is about ? inch to each foot. The square parts must be made to draw out of the sand when cast—that is, they must be a trifle thicker in the middle on the sides shown at Fig.3 than they are at the edges, as they are cast in two halves. They will be drilled and countersunk for the screws after they are cast.

Fig.5 shows the side and Fig.6 the front elevation of a mitre shoot for shooting the mitres of the ends of risers. The sides are two 9-inch boards, set up at 45°, and screwed to the bottom, marked D, and to the back, marked H. Two ledges are screwed on the bottom, marked N. Also a longer piece on the top, in front, marked C, for the trying plane to slide on when shooting the mitres. A false bottom is put in, and set up at 45°, marked B, this is screwed or nailed through the sides, and kept ½ inch above C, as shown. The triangular piece is put in, and the bottom side SP is kept the thickness of a bracket above B, and SP must be the exact size of the thickness of the string where the risers fit against it. The risers are put in with the shoulders against SR and shot off. The brackets can be mitred in the same way. This box will do for any job by having different triangular pieces.

Fig.7 shows how to get out the continuation of the brackets along the top landing, and finish against the wall. It often happens that the brackets require to be reduced in length for unders or diminished flyers, or increased for a large well, or where the risers are farther apart than on the straight flights. Figs. 8 and 9 show methods of reducing or increasing the length of the brackets, and each member proportionately. It is only necessary to describe one, as the method for both is the same. Let A be the given, and B the required bracket. Having drawn the bracket A, set off CE at any angle, the required length. Join DE, draw any number of lines on the bracket A, square to CD, draw these lines parallel to DE, and from where they cut CE square outline, and make them equal corresponding lines on the bracket A, as 3, 4 and 5 on B will equal 3, 4 and 5 on A. These brackets for the circular parts may be got out of wood; in that case the grain should be vertical, as the brackets are fixed. But for painted work the best are two pieces of linoleum glued together.

Fig.10 shows how the cut string, which is 12 inches wide, may be got out of a 9-inch board. Shoot the bottom edge, then gauge a line on its face to equal SS, Fig.2. Then with the compasses set off on this line, the hypothenuse of the pitch board as many times as is required, as shown by NRSH. Then with the steel square mark each going and rise, which cut, it will be found the board is not wide enough, but the pieces cut out of the corners can be glued on to make it out as shown by A and B.

In some cases, where there are no ornamental brackets, the ends of treads are cut off flush with the outside face of string, except the mitre for the return nosing, and the risers are mitred to the string.