| Introduction | Pp. 1-21 |
CHAPTER I
Galicia and Its People |
| The Real Galicia: The Hundred Maidens: The Glory of the North-West: Granite Hills: Gallegans and their Lives: Pigeon-cots and Maize-barns: The Night-watchman's Chant: Civil Guards and Constables: A Modest Breakfast: Eating and drinking: The Waiter as a Gentleman: Enterprise and Open-air Life: The Blessed "To-morrow": Cigarettes: The Unexpected: Photography: Wine and a Bibber: Across the Biscay | Pp. 23-47 |
CHAPTER II
Vigo Bay and Hills |
| Sun-bound: Sharp Contrasts: Devil-fish and Ink-fish: Sardines: A Spanish Infant: Vigo's Enterprise: The Lazaretto: Treasure-ships: A Grandee's Home: A Fishing-town: Memento mori: Handling Catches: Clubs and Warships: A Russian Funeral: Emigrants: A Valley Town: The Press and a Distributor: Borrow's Vigo | Pp. 49-67 |
CHAPTER III
Spain's Jerusalem |
| Galicia's Patron Saint: Pilgrims and Pestilence: A Holy City: A Monumental History: Noisy Students: The Fascination of the Cathedral: Precious Relics: A Wealth of Silver: The Compostela: St. James's Sepulchre: The Gate of Glory: The Mighty Censer: Religious Festivals: Our Lady of the Rosary: St. James's Day Festivities: The Way of Blood and Tears: MediÆval Night: From Pilgrims' Hill | Pp. 69-96 |
CHAPTER IV
Things Seen |
| More Contrasts: Bewildering Baedeker: A Galician Vineyard: Sabbath Peace: Wayside Inns: Security of Travel: Brawny Brigands: A Sonorous Tongue | Pp. 97-108 |
CHAPTER V
The Atlantic Coast and the Frontier |
| Romantic Scenery: A Blighted Town: British Enterprise: The Napoleonic Wars: A Quaint Old Place: Galicia's Fjords: A Remarkable Lighthouse: Down to Portugal: Friendly Sentries: The Glories of the MiÑo: Orense and its Famous Bridge | Pp. 109-124 |
CHAPTER VI
Locomotion |
| The Diligence: Railways: Galicia's Rolling-stock: The Solemnity of Journeying by Train: Motor-cars and Motor-buses: Beauty in the Saddle: Shocks in Travelling: "Drummers" of the North-West: Cycles and a Freak | Pp. 125-139 |
CHAPTER VII
Mondariz |
| An Alluring Hotel: Beneficent Waters: A Noble Building: Pine Hills and Trout-streams: A Splendid Pump-room: The Logan of Arcos: Sobroso's Ruins: Creaking Bullock-carts: Peaceful Prospects | Pp. 141-151 |
CHAPTER VIII
Galicia's Burden-bearers |
| The Woman with the Coffin: Women and Weights: Wages and Rent: My Pretty Maid: Hairdressing: Universal Washing: A Galician Funeral | Pp. 153-163 |
CHAPTER IX
Arosa Bay and La Toja |
| A Favourite Anchorage for British Warships: Roman Remains: Religious Prisoners: Cortegada and the King of Spain: An Attractive Workhouse: Borrow and the Bible: An Arcaded Town: Columbus and his Ships: The Haunt of the Wolf: The Island of La Toja: A Wonderful Cure: Golf | Pp. 165-177 |
CHAPTER X
Corunna and its Hero |
| The Most Happy and Invincible Armada: Modern Corunna: The Miradores: Wellington, Napoleon, and the Gallegans: The Peninsular War: The Tragedy of Moore's Retreat to Corunna: A Butchered Rearguard: Marvellous Marching: The Last Stand: Moore's Death: His Burial on Corunna's Ramparts | Pp. 179-194 |
| Index | Pp. 195-203 |
