PREFACE

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This book, a companion to Shakespeare's England, relates to the gray days of an American wanderer in the British islands, and to the gold of thought and fancy that can be found there. In Shakespeare's England an attempt was made to depict, in an unconventional manner, those lovely scenes that are intertwined with the name and the memory of Shakespeare, and also to reflect the spirit of that English scenery in general which, to an imaginative mind, must always be venerable with historic antiquity and tenderly hallowed with poetic and romantic association. The present book continues the same treatment of kindred themes, referring not only to the land of Shakespeare, but to the land of Burns and Scott.

After so much had been done, and superbly done, by Washington Irving and by other authors, to celebrate the beauties of our ancestral home, it was perhaps an act of presumption on the part of the present writer to touch those subjects. He can only plead, in extenuation of his boldness, an irresistible impulse of reverence and affection for them. His presentment of them can give no offence, and perhaps it may be found sufficiently sympathetic and diversified to awaken and sustain at least a momentary interest in the minds of those readers who love to muse and dream over the relics of a storied past. If by happy fortune it should do more than that,—if it should help to impress his countrymen, so many of whom annually travel in Great Britain, with the superlative importance of adorning the physical aspect and of refining the material civilisation of America by a reproduction within its borders of whatever is valuable in the long experience and whatever is noble and beautiful in the domestic and religious spirit of the British islands,—his labour will not have been in vain. The supreme need of this age in America is a practical conviction that progress does not consist in material prosperity but in spiritual advancement. Utility has long been exclusively worshipped. The welfare of the future lies in the worship of beauty. To that worship these pages are devoted, with all that it implies of sympathy with the higher instincts and faith in the divine destiny of the human race.

Many of the sketches here assembled were originally printed in the New York Tribune, with which journal their author has been continuously associated, as dramatic reviewer and as an editorial contributor, since August, 1865. They have been revised for publication in this form. Part of the paper on Sir Walter Scott first appeared in Harper's Weekly, for which periodical the author has occasionally written. The paper on the Wordsworth country was contributed to the New York Mirror. The alluring field of Scottish antiquity and romance, which the author has ventured but slightly to touch, may perhaps be explored hereafter, for treasures of contemplation that earlier seekers have left ungathered. [This implied promise has since been fulfilled, in Brown Heath and Blue Bells, 1895.]

The fact is recorded that an important recent book, 1890, called Shakespeare's True Life, written by James Walter, incorporates into its text, without credit, several passages of original description and reflection taken from the present writer's sketches of the Shakespeare country, published in Shakespeare's England, and also quotes, as his work, an elaborate narrative of a nocturnal visit to Anne Hathaway's cottage, which he never wrote and never claimed to have written. This statement is made as a safeguard against future injustice.

W. W.

1892.


[14]

Transcriber's Note: Page numbers link to the top of the page and show the illustrated header. Chapter names link to the chapter heading, below the header.

CONTENTS
PAGE
Preface to Illustrated Edition 9
Preface to First Edition 11
CHAPTER I
Classic Shrines of England 25
CHAPTER II
Haunted Glens and Houses 36
CHAPTER III
Old York 53
CHAPTER IV
The Haunts of Moore 66
CHAPTER V
The Beautiful City of Bath 84
CHAPTER VI
The Land of Wordsworth 94
CHAPTER VII
Shakespeare Relics at Worcester 112
CHAPTER VIII
Byron and Hucknall-Torkard Church 122
CHAPTER IX
Historic Nooks of Warwickshire 141
CHAPTER X
Shakespeare's Town 150
CHAPTER XI
Up and Down the Avon 172
CHAPTER XII
Rambles in Arden 181
CHAPTER XIII
The Stratford Fountain 188
CHAPTER XIV
Bosworth Field 198
CHAPTER XV
The Home of Dr. Johnson 209
CHAPTER XVI
From London to Edinburgh 223
CHAPTER XVII
Into the Highlands 230
CHAPTER XVIII
Highland Beauties 238
CHAPTER XIX
The Heart of Scotland 248
CHAPTER XX
Sir Walter Scott 265
CHAPTER XXI
Elegiac Memorials in Edinburgh 287
CHAPTER XXII
Scottish Pictures 297
CHAPTER XXIII
Imperial Ruins 305
CHAPTER XXIV
The Land of Marmion 314

[18]

Transcriber's Note: Page numbers link to the page where the illustration appears in the original. Illustration names link to the illustration itself.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
York Cathedral Photogravure Frontispiece
Edinburgh Castle Vignette Title-page
Stoke-Pogis Churchyard 26
Gray's Monument 28
Portrait of Thomas Gray 29
All Saints' Church, Laleham 31
Arnold's Grave Photogravure face 33
Portrait of Matthew Arnold 34
Hampton Lucy 37
Old Porch of Clopton 39
Clopton House Photogravure face 44
Warwick Castle, from the Mound 46
Warwick Castle, from the River 48
Leicester's Hospital 51
From the Warwick Shield Tailpiece 52
Bootham Bar 54
York Cathedral—West Front 57
York Cathedral—South Side 60
York Cathedral—East Front 62
Portrait of Thomas Moore 67
The Bear—Devizes 70
St. John's Church—Devizes 73
Hungerford Chapel—Devizes 75
The Avon and Bridge—Bath 85
Portrait of Beau Nash 86
Bath Abbey 88
High Street—Bath 91
A Fragment from an Old Roman Bath 92
Remains of the Old Roman Bath Tailpiece 93
Penrith Castle Photogravure face 94
Ullswater 95
Lyulph's Tower—Ullswater 101
Portrait of William Wordsworth 103
Approach to Ambleside 104
Grasmere Church 106
Rydal Mount—Wordsworth's Seat 108
An Old Lich Gate Tailpiece 111
Worcester Cathedral, from the Edgar Tower 113
The Edgar Tower 117
Portrait of Lord Byron 123
Hucknall-Torkard Church Photogravure face 128
Hucknall-Torkard Church 131
Hucknall-Torkard Church—Interior 135
The Red Horse Hotel 142
The Grammar School, Stratford 146
Interior of the Grammar School 147
Trinity Church 152
The Shakespeare Memorial Theatre 154
An Old Stratford Character: George Robbins 158
Anne Hathaway's Cottage 165
The Gower Statue Photogravure face 168
Tailpiece 171
Evesham 173
Clopton Bridge 174
Charlecote, from the Terrace 176
The Abbey Mills, Tewkesbury 179
Wootton-Wawen Church Photogravure face 183
Beaudesert Cross 186
Tailpiece 187
Portrait of Henry Irving, 1888 191
The Stratford Fountain Photogravure face 193
Mary Arden's Cottage 196
Tailpiece 197
Bosworth Field Photogravure face 200
Higham-on-the-Hill 207
Tailpiece 208
Dr. Johnson 210
Lichfield Cathedral—West Front 211
Lichfield Cathedral—West Front, Central Doorway 213
House in which Johnson was born 217
The Spires of Lichfield 220
Peterborough Cathedral Photogravure face 224
Berwick Castle 228
Stirling Castle 231
Loch Achray 234
Loch Katrine 235
Tailpiece 237
Oban 240
Loch Awe Photogravure face 246
Corbel from St. Giles Tailpiece 247
The Crown of St. Giles's 249
Scott's House in Edinburgh 252
The Maiden 255
Grayfriars Church 256
High Street—Allan Ramsay's Shop 257
The Canongate 260
Holyrood Castle, and Arthur's Seat Photogravure face 262
St. Giles's, from the Lawn Market 263
Portrait of Sir Walter Scott 266
Edinburgh Castle 271
The Canongate Tolbooth 277
Grayfriars Churchyard 292
The Forth Bridge 298
Dunfermline Abbey 300
Northwest Corner of Dunfermline Abbey 303
The Nave—Looking West—Dunfermline Abbey 304
Loch Lomond 306
Loch Lomond 308
Dunstaffnage 312
Tantallon Castle 316
Norham Castle, in the Time of Marmion 321

[23]

"Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings.... All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries he may learn to improve his own, and if fortune carries him to worse he may learn to enjoy it."

DR. JOHNSON.


"There is given,
Unto the things of earth which time hath bent,
A spirit's feeling; and where he hath leant
His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power
And magic in the ruined battlement,
For which the palace of the present hour
Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower."

BYRON.


"The charming, friendly English landscape! Is there any in the world like it? To a traveller returning home it looks so kind,—it seems to shake hands with you as you pass through it."

THACKERAY.


GRAY DAYS AND GOLD

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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