The old exclamation about Augustus finding Rome of brick and leaving it of marble, deceives many. Ancient Rome was by no means a marble city, although the quarries of Massa and Carrara are not far distant. The staple-building materials of the Imperial City, even in its palmiest days, were brick and travertine. The brick, however, was very different from the porous cakes of crudely burnt clay of which the modern metropolis of the world is built. I have examined on the spot a great many specimens, and found them all to be of remarkably compact structure, somewhere between the material of modern terra-cotta and that of common flower-pots, and similarly intermediate in color. The Roman builders appear to have had no standard size; the bricks vary even in the same building—the Coliseum for example; all that I have seen are much thinner than our bricks—we should call them tiles.

But the most characteristic material is the travertine. The walls of the Coliseum are made up of a mixture of this and the tiles above-mentioned. The same is the case with most of the other very massive ruins, as the baths, etc. Many of the temples with columns and facing of marble have inner walls built of this mixture, while others are entirely of travertine.

I was greatly surprised at the wondrous imperishability of this remarkable material. In buildings of which the smooth crystalline marble had lost all its sharpness and original surface, this dirty, yellow, spongy-looking limestone remained without the slightest indication of weathering. A most remarkable instance of this is afforded by the temple of Neptune at Paestum, in Calabria. This is the most perfect ruin of a pure classic temple that now remains in existence, and in my opinion is the finest. I prefer it even to the Parthenon.

We have a little sample of it in London. The Doric columns at the entrance of the Euston station are copies of those of its peristyle. The originals are of travertine, the blocks forming them are laid upon each other without mortar or cement, and so truly flattened that in walking round the building and carefully prying, I could find no crevice into which a slip of ordinary writing paper, or the blade of a pen-knife could be inserted. Yet this temple was an antiquarian monument in the days of the Roman emperors.

The rough natural surface of the stone is exposed, and at first sight appears as though weathered, but this appearance is simply due to its natural sponge-like structure. It appears to have been coated with some sort of stucco or smoothing film, which, either by forming a thin layer, or possibly by only filling up the pores of the travertine, gave a smooth surface upon which the coloring was applied. This is now only indistinctly visible here and there, and if I remember rightly, some have disputed its existence.

But this travertine, though so familiar to the Italian, is such a rarity here that some further description of its structure and composition may be demanded. It is a limestone formed by chemical precipitation. Most limestones are more or less of organic origin, are agglomerations of shells, corals, etc., but this is formed by the same kind of action as that which produces the stalactites in limestone caverns. It has some resemblance to the incrustation formed on boilers by calcareous water. Although the material of so many ancient edifices, it is, geologically speaking, the youngest of all the hard rocks. Its formation is now in progress at some of the very quarries that supplied Imperial Rome.

On the Campagna, between Rome and Tivoli, is a small circular lake, from which a stream of tepid water, that wells up from below, is continually flowing. Its local name is the “The Lake of Tartarus.” The water, like that of Zoedone, or soda-water or champagne, is supersaturated with carbonic acid that was forced into it while under pressure down below. This carbonic acid has dissolved some of the limestones through which the subterranean water passes, and when it comes to the surface, the carbonic acid flies away like that which escapes when we uncork a bottle of soda-water, though less suddenly, and the lime losing its solvent is precipitated, and forms a crust on whatever is covered by the water.

When I visited this lake in the month of February it was surrounded by a chevaux de frise of an extraordinary character; thousands of tubes of about half an inch to one inch in diameter outside, with calcareous walls about one eighth of an inch in thickness. These were standing up from two to three feet high, and so close together that we had to break our way through the dense palisade they formed in order to reach the margin of the lake. After some consideration and inquiry, their origin was discovered. They are the encrusted remains of bullrushes that had flourished in the summer and died down since. During the time of their growth the water had risen, and thus they became coated with a crust of compact travertine. This deposition takes place so rapidly that a piece of lace left in the lake for a few hours comes out quite stiff, every thread being coated with limestone. Such specimens, and twigs similarly covered, are sold to tourists or prepared by them if they have time to stop. Sir Humphry Davy drove a stick into the bottom of the lake and left it standing upright in the water from May to the following April, and then had some difficulty in breaking with a sharp pointed hammer the crust formed round the stick. This crust was several inches in thickness. That which I saw round the ex-bullrushes may have all been formed in a few days or weeks. The rivulet that flows from the lake deposits travertine throughout its course, and when it overflows leaves every blade of grass that it covers encrusted with this limestone.

Near to the Lake of Tartarus is the Solfatara lake which contains similar calcareous water, but strongly impregnated with sulphureted hydrogen; it consequently deposits a mixture of carbonate and sulphide of calcium, a sort of porous tufa, some of it so porous that it floats like a stony scum, forming what the cicerone call “floating islands.” Lyell, in his “Principles of Geology,” confounds these lakes, and describes Tartarus under the name of Solfatara.

The travertine used as a building stone is chiefly derived from the quarries of Ponte Lucano, and is the deposit that was formed on the bed of a lake like that of Tartarus. The celebrated cascade of the Anio at Tivoli forms calcareous stalactites, and all the country round has rivulets, caverns, and deposits, where this formation may be seen in progress or completed.

It varies considerably in structure, some specimens are compact and smooth, others have the appearance of a petrified moss, and great varieties may be found among the materials of a single building. It is, however, usually rough and more or less spongy-looking, as above stated, but this structure does not seem to affect its stability, at least, not in the climate of Italy. Whether it would stand long frosts is an open question. The night frosts at and about Rome are rather severe, but usually followed by a warm sunny day; thus there is no great penetration of ice.

Every specimen I have examined shows a remarkable compactness of molecular structure in spite of visible porosity. All give out a clear metallic ring when struck, and the intimate surface, if I may so describe the surface of the warm-like structure it sometimes displays, is always clear and smooth as though varnished. To this I attribute its durability. Lest the above description should appear self-contradictory, I will explain a little further. If melted glass were run into threads, and those threads while soft were allowed to agglomerate loosely into a convoluted mass, it would, as regarded in mass, have a porous or spongy-looking structure, but nevertheless its molecular structure would be compact and vitreous; there would be mechanical but not molecular, porosity. Travertine is similar.

Have we any travertine in England? This is a practical question of some importance, and one to which I have no hesitation in replying, Yes. There is plenty formed and forming in the neighborhood of Matlock, but that which I have seen on the face of caverns, etc., is not so compact and metal-like as the Italian. This, however, does not prove the entire absence of the useful travertine. Not having any commercial interest in the search, I have only looked at what has come in my way, but have little doubt that there are other kinds besides those I saw. I have also seen travertine in course of formation in Ireland, where I think there is a fine field for exploration in the mountain limestone regions, which have been disturbed by volcanic action of the Miocene period. The travertines of Italy are found in the neighborhood of extinct volcanoes.

The classic associations of this material, its remarkable stability, and the faculty with which it may be worked, render it worthy of more attention than it has yet received from British builders.