CONTENTS

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CHAP. PAGE
I. BEYOND THE PALE OF THE RAILWAY 1
(Aleppo and Urfa)
II. A LAND OF DUST AND ASHES 24
(Diarbekr and Mardin)
III. THE MARCHES OF ANCIENT ROME 47
(Dara and Nisibin)
IV. THE BURDEN OF NEWER NINEVEH 69
(Mosul)
V. THE TEMPLE OF THE DEVIL 87
(Sheikh Adi)
VI. THE SKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAINS 111
(Rabban Hormizd, Bavian, and Akra)
VII. AN ORIENTAL VICH IAN VOHR 134
(The Sheikh of Barzan)
VIII. A MASTER OF MISRULE 158
(Neri and Jilu)
IX. THE DEBATABLE LAND 176
(Gawar, Mergawar, and Tergawar)
X. TWIGS OF A WITHERED EMPIRE 196
(URMI)
XI. A LAND OF TROUBLE AND ANGUISH 221
(Urmi to Van)
XII. A SLOUGH OF DISCONTENT 235
(Van)
XIII. THE LAND OF PRESTER JOHN 262
(Qudshanis)
XIV. THE GREAT CAÑONS 284
(Tyari and Tkhuma)
XV. INTRUDERS IN A PANDEMONIUM 311
(Amadia and Bohtan)
XVI. GRAVES OF DEAD EMPIRES 339
(Mosul to Baghdad)
XVII. OUR SMALLEST ALLY 359
XVIII. DEAD SEA FRUIT 392
GLOSSARY 417
INDEX 421
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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