INDEX

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A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z

AbÁndames, 21, 28, 30, 39, 42
Abderahman I., Caliph of CÓrdova, 296
Abu Walid, Alfaqui of Toledo, 208
Alarcon, Battle of, 267
Alba de Tormes, 163, 173
Albarracin, 255
Alberche, River, 212-213
AlcÁntara, 230-235
Bridge, 92, 231-235
Monastery, 53, 234
Alfonso VI. of Castile and Leon, 124-125, 140, 142, 202, 208, 269
Alfonso VIII. of Castile, 60, 208, 267
Alfonso XI. of Castile and Leon, 180
Alfonso V. of Portugal, 150-151
Alfonso, Prince of Castile, 258, 281
Alguazils, 53, 79, 80
Al Manzor, Vizier of CÓrdova, 85-86
Mountain, 161, 221
Almaraz, Bridge, 92, 224
Almoravides, 202
Altobiscar, Mountain Ridge, 299
Alxaman, Moorish Emir, 35
Andalusia, 60, 202
Aragon, 61, 168
ArÁnjuez, 191, 193-195
Arapiles, 164
Arlanzon, River, 266, 268, 274
Armada, The, 95, 107, 189
Arriondas, 37-38, 42
Arroyo Molinos, Battle of, 224
Arzobispo, Bridge, 214
Astorga, 68-71, 75, 78, 177
Asturias, Eastern, 15-16, 24-42
Western, 93, 113-131
Augustus, Emperor, 68, 228, 246
Autos da FÉ, 205, 261-262
Ávila, 176-183, 190, 192
Barcelona, 296
Basques, 289, 296
Bathers, 120
Bavieca, 270-271
Becerrea, 76-77
Beggars, 278-280
BÉjar, 173-176, 235
Bellotas, 116
Bembibre, 75
Benavente, 133-136
Battle of, 134-135{302}
Berruguete, Alonzo, Sculptor, 207
BetÁnzos, 106, 108-110
Bidassoa, River, 6, 293
Bilbao, 5-7, 9
Birds (Wild). Eagles, 21, 229;
Falcons, 213;
Hoopoes, 156;
Magpies, 157;
Ospreys, 22-23;
Partridges, 73;
Storks, 157, 222, 229, 232
Biscay, Bay of, 5-7, 39
Bivar, Rodrigo Diaz de. See Cid.
BorgoÑa, Felipe de, Sculptor, 207
Borrow, George, 54, 103, 108 note, 115-117
Briviesca, 82, 282
Buenavista, 46, 48, 50
Bull Fights, 171-173, 208, 273, 289
BÚrgos, 60, 257, 264-277, 280-281, 286
Castle, 275-277
Cathedral, 273-274
Monasteries, 267-268, 280-281
Palaces, 270
Siege, 275-277
Burguete, 294-295, 297-298
Cabezon, 19, 42
Cacabellos, 72, 75
CÁceres, 81, 221-224, 229, 235
CafÉs, 13-14, 69-70, 273
Calderon, Pedro, Dramatist, 205
Camps, Celtic and Roman, 90-91
CÁngas De Onis, 30-33, 37, 39
Cantabrian Mountains, 15, 19-20, 43, 66, 152, 161, 282
Cares, River, 28-29
Cardena, San Pedro de, Monastery, 271
Carillo, Archbishop of Toledo, 151, 258-259
Carlists, 54-55
Carpio, Bernardo del, 296
Carranza, Archbishop of Toledo, 262
CarreÑo, 29-30
Carrion, River, 51, 286
CastaÑos, General, 68
Castile, Kingdom, 60-61, 202, 207
Old, 7-23, 43-45, 176-185, 243-258, 266-284
New, 185-214, 237-243
Castles. Benavente, 134;
BÚrgos, 275-276;
Magueda, 211;
MÉrida, 225;
Olite, 291;
Ponferrada, 73;
SegÓvia, 249-250;
Toledo, 205
in Spain, 282-283
Castro Gonzalo, Bridge, 135-136
Castropol, 113-114
Castro Urdiales, 7-10, 19
Cathedrals. Avila, 180;
BÚrgos, 273-275;
Leon, 58-59;
Lugo, 79;
Orense, 92;
Oviedo, 122;
PalÉncia, 264;
Pamplona, 290-291;
PlasÉncia, 217;
Salamanca, 164-165;
Santiago, 86-87;
SegÓvia, 253-254;
Toledo, 205-208;
Tuy, 97;
Zamora, 145-146{303}
Catharine of Aragon, Queen of England, 182
Cervera del Pisuerga, 45
Cervantes, Miguel. See Quixote, Don.
Charlemagne, Emperor, 295-298
Charles V., King of Spain and Emperor of Germany, 190, 203, 268
Charles, Prince of Wales (Charles I.), 48
Charles Martel, Mayor of the Franks, 298
Churriguera, Architect, 87
Cicadas, 156
Cid, The. Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, 61, 124-125, 140-143, 177, 202, 269-271
Cies, Islas de, 101
Clamores, River, 253
Clausel, General, 163, 173
Clavijo, Battle of, 85
Climate, 129, 170, 182, 266-267, 272, 294
Cole, General, 299
Colonia, Juan de, Architect, 274
Combarros, 71
Communeros, Revolt of, 203-204, 268
Constantino, Bridge, 76
Corcuvion, 103
CÓrdova, 85, 201, 295-296
CÓria, 235
Corpus Christi, Festival of, 139, 143-146
Cortes, Hernando, 223
CoruÑa, 64, 89, 104-105, 108, 110
Battle of, 92, 106-108, 111
Costume, 49, 62-63, 65, 71, 109-110, 157-158, 175-176
Courtship, 226-228
Covadonga, 25, 33-37
Battle of, 24-25, 34-37
Nuestra SeÑora de, 24-25, 34, 37
Craufurd, General, 214
Cubos, 22, 58
Cudillero, 118-121
Cuenca, 255, 283
Cuera, Sierra de, 30, 38-39
Cuesta, Captain General, 213
Cueva, Don Beltran de la, 259
Cuidad Rodrigo, 162-163, 175
Dancing, 40, 48, 108-109, 289
De Arfe, Metal worker, 207
Deva, River, 20-21, 28, 42
Gorge, 22-23, 25-28, 42, 43, 298
Dogs, 17-19, 216, 260
Dorothea. See Quixote, Don.
Douro, Battle of the, 93, 214
Drake, Sir Francis, 107
Dubreton, General, 275
DueÑas, 263-264
Duero, River, 94, 141, 149, 259-260
Valley, 137, 136
Jarama, River, 194
Jerte, River, 216
Jews, 200, 203, 261, 270
Joseph Buonaparte, 162-163, 277, 286-288
Jourdan, Marshal, 213
Juan II. of Castile, 258, 281
Prince of Spain, 181
Juana, Queen of Spain, 182, 265
Junot, Marshal, 68
La CaÑiza, 95-97
Lacer, Caius Julius, Engineer, 231-232
La Demanda, Sierra de, 152, 281-282
La Granja, 244, 254
La Hermida, 23
La Mancha, 95
Lampegia, 298
Lapisse, General, 235
Laredo, 10-11, 15
La Robla, 130
Las Huelgas, Convent, 267-268
Las Rozas, 238
Lefebre Desnouettes, General, 135
Lena, 127-128
Leon Province (Old Kingdom), 43, 45-76, 89, 102, 128-176, 258-266,

296
City, 36, 45, 50, 57-65, 66 note, 68, 81, 131
Cathedral, 58-59
Church of San Isidoro, 59-61
Leovigild, King of the Goths, 200
Le Sage, 255.
See also Gil Blas.
Liebana, Vale of, 23, 42-44, 152
Llanes, 40-41
Lobsters, 8-10, 19-20
Lope de Vega, Dramatist, 205
Loyola, Ignatius, 178-179, 291
Luarca, 118
Lugo 68, 75-82, 89-90, 106, 177
Luna, Don Alvaro de, 207, 258{306}
Madrid, 190-193, 215, 238, 240
Mansilla de las Mulas, 57
Mantillas, 273
Manzanal, Puerto de, 70-71, 75
Manzanares, River, 215, 237-238
Maragatos, 65, 70-71
Marbot, General, 185
Maritornes. See Quixote, Don.
Marmont, Marshal, 149-150, 161-163, 165-166, 214
Martorell, Bridge, 92
Masma, River, 112
Maucune, General, 163, 287
Maurice, Archbishop of BÚrgos, 274
Maya, Puerto de, 292-293
Mayorga, 57
Meals, 8-9, 11-13, 41, 119, 138, 218
Medellin, Hill of, 213
Medina del Campo, 117, 258
Membrillo, 12, 181
Mendo, River, 108
Mendoza, Cardinal, 151, 207
MÉrida, 225-229, 232
Mero, River, 106
Mexico, 20, 223
MiÉres, 126-127
Military Orders, 53, 66, 73, 234
Mina, General, 282
MiÑo, River, 6, 78, 89-97
Miraflores, La Cartuja de, 273, 280-281
Miranda Del Ebro, 283-285
Casa de, 271, 280
MondoÑedo, 111
Money, 219, 279 note
Monforte, 90
Montamarta, 137-139
Montanchez, Sierra de, 223
Moore, Sir John, at Salamanca, 182 note;
at Sahagun, 54-55;
assailed by Napoleon, 184-185;
Benavente, 134-136;
Retreat across the Vierzo, 74-75;
Pass of Piedrafita, 76;
Lugo, 89;
March to CoruÑa, 105-106;
Battle of CoruÑa, 106-107
Moors. Conquest of Spain, 200, 282;
repulsed from Asturias, 34-37;
Caliphate of CÓrdova, 201, 296;
Charlemagne’s Invasion, 295-296;
Clavijo, 85;
Al Manzor, 85-86;
Sieges of Zamora, 140;
Reconquest of Toledo, 202;
The Cid, 269-270;
Fresh irruption, 202;
Battle of Alarcon, 267;
Battle of las Navas de Tolosa, 60, 267;
Reconquest of Andalusia, 60, 202;
Persecuted, 261
Morena, Sierra, 46, 61, 208
Morillas Mountains, 285
Mozarabes, 208-210
Mudejares, 204 note, 208 note
Mules, 42, 65, 104, 158-160
Munuza, Emir, 36
Muros, 117, 121
Nalon, River, 121{307}
Napoleon Buonaparte. Pursuit of Sir John Moore, 55, 184-185, 135, 75
Spanish War, 165, 288
Narcea, River, 121
Navacerrada, Puerto de, 242-244
Navarre, 61, 284-300
Navarrete, Battle of, 285
Navas de Tolosa, Battle of, 60-61, 208, 267, 287
NÁvia, River, 76, 116
Nervion, River, 5
Ney, Marshal, 93
Nive, River, 300
Nogales, 76
Norreys, Sir John, 107-108
Obarenes, Montes, 282-285
Olivares, Conde Duque de, 148-149
Olite, 291
Olmedo, 258-259
Orbigo, River, 66-67, 134
OrdoÑez, Don Diego, 142
Orense, Bridge, 32, 92
City, 89, 91-92
Othman ben Abu Neza, Emir, 298
Oviedo, 121-127
Cathedral, 122
Oxen, 15-17, 30-31, 44-45, 103, 105, 159
Pacheco, DoÑa Maria, 203
Paget, General, 76, 135
Pajares, Puerto de, 36, 58, 80, 126-130
Palaces. BÚrgos, 271;
CÁceres, 222-223;
Leon, 62;
Olite, 291;
Oviedo, 122;
PlasÉncia, 216-217;
Salamanca, 167-169;
Santiago, 87;
SegÓvia, 247;
Toledo, 204;
Toro, 148
PalÁvia, 106
PalÉncia, 264-265
Pamplona, 60, 81, 283, 290-294, 296
Siege, 291-293, 298
Pancorvo, Defile, 281-282, 286
Pantoja, Painter, 189
Paredes, Don Diego Garcia de, 32, 223
Peasantry, 26-27, 31, 40, 48-50, 62, 65, 79, 99, 109-110, 120, 138, 147-148, 175-176, 197-198, 216, 280, 287
Pedro, the Cruel, of Castile, 86, 180
El Maestre. See Quixote, Don.
Pelayo, King of Asturias, 24, 31-32, 34-37
Pelota, 288-289
Peones Camineros, 243, 256
Philip II. of Spain, 67, 188-190, 194, 261-262, 273
IV. of Spain, 148, 244
Phoenicians, 199-200
Picton, General, 151, 285-286
Piedrafita, Puerto de, 75-76, 89
Pigs, 212, 229-230
Pilar, Nuestra SeÑora del, 179
Pilgrimages, 24-25, 64-65, 82-84
Pilona, River, 38
Pisuerga, River, 263, 265
Pizarro, 223{308}
PlasÉncia, 81, 214, 216-219
Ploughs, 105
Poblet, Monastery, 187
Pola de Gordon, 129-130
Ponferrada, 72-75
Pontevedra, 81
Porcelos, Diego de, 269
Portugal, 92-93, 97, 150, 181, 286
Portugalete, 5, 9
Potes, 26, 42, 43
PrÁvia, 117, 121
Pyrenees, Mountains, 282, 293-300
Battles of the, 292-293, 299
Quevedo, Francisco, Satirist, 149
Quinones, Don Suero, 66-67
Quixote, Don. Tales of Chivalry, 2-3, 32, 66-67, 142, 161;
Ideal Knight Errant, 154;
Company at the Inn, 46;
Innkeeper, 247;
Dorothea, 244;
Dulcinea del Toboso, 65, 100, 184;
Sancho Panza, 8, 49, 83, 95, 181;
Maritornes, 9;
The Cortes of Death, 143;
Don Diego Miranda, 271;
El Maestre Pedro, 211;
Roque Guinart, 157
RaÑadoiro, Sierra de, 116
Reille, General, 287
Religious Observances, 120-121, 143-146, 273
Reptiles, Frogs, 46, 156
265-266
Tomas de, Inquisitor, 179, 203, 250-251{310}
Torrelavega, 15, 19
Torrelodones, 239-240
Trajan, Emperor, 226, 231, 246
Trees. Acacia, 132, 281;
Box, 294;
Beech, 44, 295;
Chestnut, 44, 295;
Elm, 194-195, 281;
Ilex, 153, 215-216, 219;
Olive, 173, 194, 221;
Palm, 102;
Pine, 184, 242-244, 257;
Poplar, 57, 65, 133, 281
Tresviso, 26-27
Troglodyte villages, 132-133, 263
Trujillo, 223, 235
Tuy, 92-93, 96-98
UbiÑa, PeÑa, 128
Unquera, 20-21, 39, 42
Urdon, 25-27
Urraca, Princess, 140-143

Valcarce, 75
Valcarlos, 300
ValdepeÑas, 95
Valdeprado, 44
Valdez, Inquisitor, 263
ValÉncia del Cid, 60, 154, 202, 270
do Minho (Portugal) 97
Valladolid, 97, 141, 207, 259-264, 281
Velasquez, Painter, 134, 138, 149
Vellate, Puerto de, 293
Vellido Dolphos, 141-142
Verney, Sir Edmund, 48
Victor, Marshal, 213
Vierzo, The, 72-75, 91, 152
Vigo, 80, 97-101
Bay, Battle of, 100
Vilano, Cape, 101
Villacastin, 182-183
Villafranca, 75, 81
Villalba, 242
Villalpando, Francisco de, Metal Worker, 207
Vineyards, 94, 153, 220
Visigoths, 105, 122, 200
VitÓria, Battle of, 151, 277, 286-288, 292
Vizcaya, 5-7, 24
Walton, Private, 136
Wamba, King of the Visigoths, 105, 199-200
Water pitchers, 13, 80-82, 222
Wellington, Duke of. Campaign of the Douro, 93;
Campaign of Talavera, 93, 212-214;
at Salamanca, 165-166, 170;
Battle of Salamanca, 161-164;
Criticises Siege of Astorga, 68;
Siege of BÚrgos, 275-277;
Retreat from BÚrgos, 266;
Generalissimo of Spanish armies, 179;
Campaign and Battle of VitÓria, 277, 286-288;
Battles of the Pyrenees, 292-293;
Allusions to Spanish character, 49, 125-126
Wines, 12-13, 94-96, 266, 284
{311}
Ximena, 270-271
Ximenes, Cardinal, 179, 210
Yakub aben Yussef of Morocco, 267
Yuste, 190
Zadora, River, 285, 287
Zamora, 136-137, 139-147, 150
Cathedral, 139-140, 145-146
Zaragoza, 253
Sieges of, 111, 179, 296



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book back cover

FOOTNOTES:

[1] “Infernal anis,” says the advertisement, “made from the worst wines of the Priorato, is neither tonic, digestive, nor restorative, and has never been commended at any exhibition.”

[2] Literally “Tubs”, the solid semicircular bastions of Spanish town walls.

[3] A collegiate church, intermediate in dignity between a parish church and a cathedral.

[4] A public promenade, thickly planted with trees.

[5] A Spanish league is about an hour’s march, say 3¾ miles.

[6] At one place it consisted of a huge earthenware bowl, 3 feet high and 4 feet in diameter, filled up solid with earth to within 4 inches of the rim.

[7] Here died ——.

[8] See p. 140.

[9] See p. 140.

[10] This monastery is a very notable Leonese monument, a masterpiece of Plateresque, somewhat similar to the Otto Heinrichs Bau at Heidelberg, and formerly the property of the knights of Santiago.

[11] Astorga = Asturica Augusta.

[12] Literally the “House of Purification,” i.e. the Great Mosque of CÓrdova.

[13] There is something of the same flavour about the inscription on the Gates of the Hospital del Rey at Burgos; “Blessed is the man that provideth for the sick and needy, St James (!) shall deliver him in the time of trouble.”

[14] The fate most dreaded by the Spanish prisoners in the Moorish wars.

[15] Borrow stigmatises BetÁnzos as a filthy and evil-smelling pest-house. But then his horse broke down there. So much depends upon the point of view!

[16] See page 142.

[17]

“Who would not give a foot of ground
For all the Devils in Hell.”
Ballad of Lord Willoughby.

[18] A cant term for knifing. The Neapolitan had a standing feud with Spain.

[19] The proverb is still quite current. A carrier of whom we inquired the distance to Zamora oracularly answered that “It could never be gained in an hour.”

[20] See p. 60.

[21] The recognised Spanish title for the Host.

[22] Presbytery.

[23] “Here’s to the glorious, pious and immortal memory of the great and good King William, who delivered us from Popery, brass money, and wooden shoes!”

[24] Arriero, from arrÉ! gee-up!

[25] As in Italian, the diminutive is a sort of endearing form of superlative.

[26] They were built at the end of the eleventh century. A singularly fine bit of work for so early a date.

[27] Moore was at Salamanca and his artillery at Talavera when Napoleon reached Madrid.

[28] The burial-place of the Kings of Aragon.

[29] See p. 261.

[30] Such is the meaning of the word, but I would not like to vouch for the etymology. The derivation is possibly the other way.

[31] The tiny mosque of San Cristo de la Luz is the only genuine Moorish fragment. The Puerta del Sol, the church of Sta Maria la Blanca, etc., are MudÉjar work. Cp. note on p. 208.

[32] I.e. “Citadel,” CÆsareum.

[33] James Howell in 1620 estimates the annual income of Toledo at £100,000, a sum equivalent to nearly half a million to-day.

[34] Metal screens and reliquaries.

[35] He has only a statue at Toledo; but his actual grave has a scarcely less honourable site in las Huelgas at BÚrgos.

[36] The MozÁrabes were Christians under the dominion of the Moors, as MudÉjares were Moors under the dominion of the Christians.

[37] Several such herds were seized by the hungry regiments in the course of the retreat.

[38] Heywood, Fair Maid of the West.

[39] The country people invariably reckon in reals—the old coinage. The piece is no longer struck, but its value is one-fourth of a peseta.

[40] Some call it eighty-one. But this includes some arches of construction in the spandrils, and is not fair counting.

[41] Cp. p. 55.

[42] The province derives its name from the conquests “beyond the Duero” won in the earlier stages of the struggle with the Moors.

[43] Noche Toledana is proverbial in Spanish as equivalent to a sleepless night.

[44] The Octroi office, to receive the city tolls.

[45] Trajan was a Spaniard born, and his reign an extremely prosperous period for Spain.

[46] “The Vineyard,” a lovely dismantled monastery planted beside the Eresma, just underneath the town.

[47] Montaigne.

[48] E.g. Talavera, first Archbishop of Grenada, and Peter Martyr, the Confessor and Biographer of Isabella.

[49] The beautiful Huerta of Liria is the only district actually praised.

[50] Cp. p. 207.

[51] Cp. p. 151.

[52] The place of execution at Seville.

[53] Cp. p. 132.

[54] The ambiguity would not be apparent to a Spaniard. To him Invierno, “Winter,” is the assonym to Infierno, “Hell.”

[55] The “Silversmith style,” or early Spanish Renaissance. So called from the Cellini-like carving which is its leading characteristic.

[56] The Emperor of Morocco; at this time the martial Yakub aben Yussef.

[57] Cp. note on p. 265.

[58] See p. 281.

[59] See p. 161.

[60] “A ha’penny for bread.” The perrita or “little dog” = a halfpenny, and the perro gordo or fat dog = a penny. Thus “Two reals minus a little dog” is 45 centimos. The animal irrelevantly called a “dog” is the lion on the reverse of the coin.

[61] Certosa. Charterhouse.

[62] This incident has been utilised by Conan Doyle in his White Company. But that story rather exaggerates the height and steepness of the hill.

[63] During the sitting of the Congress of Dresden.

[64] A highly developed form of Fives.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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