A FOOTPRINT—SHAHZAD MIR INDISPOSED—DESERTION OF MULETEERS—A RAINY NIGHT.

It was now the 28th of July, and we had reached a spot between our night encampments 69 and 70, the day camps not being recorded in the map. Since leaving Lanak La on the 31st of May, we had been daily finding our own way across country, over mountains and valleys, along nullahs and beds of rivers, etc., and at last we had found a track we could follow. Such a sensation was novel to us. We could scarcely grasp that there was no need to go ahead to find a way. We had simply to follow our nose. We thought that our troubles were nearly finished, and for the rest of our journey that there would be easy marching, and every moment we quite expected that the dwellings of mankind would heave into sight. Especially, too, when one of the men picked up a stout stick, three or four feet long, which must have been carried there by somebody or other, for since leaving Niagzu the highest species of vegetation we had seen was the wild onion. Some of the men also declared that they had found a man's footprint. Personally we did not see this sign of civilization, but the men maintained there could be no mistake about it, for they said it was the footprint of a cripple!

Besides all this comforting news, there was no need to be tramping over the hills in search of game for food. The antelope, yak, and kyang were plentiful and easily shot in all the valleys, and, had we been so disposed, we might have shot a dozen yak during the afternoon's march. When we halted for the night one of the wild yak actually came and grazed amongst our mules!

We camped at the entrance of a winding nullah, along which grew rich grass, and being tempted by the shelter, some of the mules wandered up it during the night and thus forced upon us a late start the next morning; but as there was a strong wind blowing, this somewhat counterbalanced the otherwise too over-powerful heat of the sun.

Our track led up a fine grass valley, where we could actually smell the wild flowers, but as we continued the track became less defined, till eventually there was no track at all. We spread out to the right and left hand, but without success. Whether it had turned off to north or south it is impossible to say. For the moment we were disappointed at the overthrow of all our hopes, and instinctively felt that our journey had not quite come to an end.

We had been marching uphill, and at the top of the valley found a fast-running rivulet taking its rise from the snow mountains that lay south of us, the same range that had blocked our way and compelled us to make the detour. Added to the work of once more having to find our own way, the country took a change for the worse. Although there was no difficulty about the water, still there was less grass, the soil became slatey, and in places barren. Storms began to brew around us, but we were lucky in being favoured with only some of the outlying drops. We had a perfectly still night with one degree of frost.

It had been our custom, especially on dark nights, to make the men take their turn of guard over the mules, to watch and see that they did not stray. They were far too precious to lose, and by marching in the early morning, felt less fatigue.

On this particular morning, 30th July, Camp 70, no mules were forthcoming at the time when we wanted to load up, and it turned out that the man, Usman, who should have been on watch, was fast asleep in some secluded corner. It was only the previous night that this very man, after unloading the mules, had been sent to fetch some water for the other men and ourselves, but as we waited and there was none forthcoming, another man was sent to see what was the matter. He found Usman, having had a good drink himself, contentedly sleeping with the empty water-skin by his side. We therefore had no inclination to go in search of him on this particular morning, but after collecting the mules from all quarters, loaded up without him.

Our twelve mules with fairly light loads seemed to be stronger and fitter than they had been for a long time, no doubt due to the excellent green and sufficiency of water they had of late enjoyed. We had besides become better acquainted with the carelessness and laziness of our men, whom we used to watch very closely, never trusting them entirely.

After marching about a mile, we crossed a narrow track running north and south. Here again we were much tempted to take the northern route, but as our mules were so fit, we still stuck to our eastern one, daily expecting more than ever to find people.

Another inducement for doing so was that of late there had been little difficulty in keeping all well supplied with meat. It thus happened that when everything was in our favour, we were sanguine of accomplishing our journey without any further mishap. We crossed over several cols and saw fresh-water lakes, while yak, kyang, antelope, and sand-grouse were plentiful.

Storms had been threatening a great part of the day to break over us, but were held in check by some extra high peaks. In the evening, however, we had crossed a broad sandy bed of a river, wherein a shallow stream was flowing, and had just pitched our tents in a small sandy nullah, well sheltered from the wind, when down came the rain in real earnest.

We were sorry to find that Shahzad Mir had not come in, though very shortly the man who was carrying the plane-table walked up, saying that Shahzad Mir had stopped the other side of the stream with a pain in his stomach. We knew quite well what was the cause of this. He had been taking some chlorodyne and afterwards had eaten enormous quantities of meat. As there was nothing to be gained by getting anybody else soaked, we sent back the same man to fetch him in. The night was very dark and the rain turned to snow, still neither of them came. Fearing that on account of the darkness they had gone astray, we popped outside and fired off our gun at intervals; still the ammunition was wasted. Nothing but daybreak brought them back, when it turned out that they had been so ridiculous as to sleep in a nullah only a few yards from our camp. They had even heard the shots, but still could not find us. Neither of them was any the worse for the outing, in fact the result had been beneficial, for the stomach-ache from which Shahzad Mir had been suffering was completely cured. They caused a good deal of merriment amongst us all, and we all thought they might have selected a more suitable night for sleeping out of camp.

The ground was covered with snow, so it was out of the question to think of marching early. We were rather anxious to cover a few more miles that morning. It was the last day of the month, and since leaving Leh we had marched very nearly a thousand miles, and we thought we would like to start a fresh thousand on the 1st of August. To our delight the sun made an appearance quicker than we had anticipated and the snow was very soon thawed, allowing us to move off again at 11 o'clock.

The day was fine and warm, and as I went on ahead to explore, I saw below me some grassy hillocks, and, grazing in their midst, a fine yak. I thought it would be interesting to make a stalk just to see how close it was possible to get without disturbing him. I walked down the hill I was on and dodged in and out between the hillocks, always keeping out of sight, still getting closer and closer, till at last there was only one small hillock that separated us, not more than half a dozen yards. But when I stood up before him and he raised his head, for he was intent upon grazing, and saw me, his look of utter bewilderment was most amusing to see. He was so filled with astonishment, as the chances are he had never seen a human form before, that it was some moments before he could collect his thoughts sufficiently to make up his mind and be off.

Further on were many streams, forming their own course over a very broad, sandy river bed, all swollen on account of the recent rain. Although we were at an altitude of 16,000 feet we felt no discomfort in taking off our boots and stockings and paddling across and about the streams, collecting bits of stick wherewith to make a fire for our breakfast of venison and fried onions.

To-day we were only making a single march, and in the afternoon halted by a pool of rain-water on some high ground, well sheltered on all sides from the wind by a number of sandy mounds. From here we had magnificent views of the massive snow mountains that surrounded us, looking grander than ever from the fresh supply of snow.

In the direction we intended marching there seemed to be abundance of water, but whether rivers or lakes were in store for us it was impossible to make out. We rested the following morning, enjoying the warm sunshine and the glorious scenery, and would fain have remained there when the time came to load up and continue our journey.

The water, about which we had been unable to make up our minds, proved to be a large shallow salt-water lake. We found it best to march round by the southern shore. In some places there were tiny rivulets flowing into it, which caused us some trouble in crossing, for the bottom and ground around was muddy. Otherwise the going was good, and we marched on till it was almost dark.

Our men that morning had behaved in a peculiar way, for each of them had come to make his salaam to us; not that we attached much importance at the time to it, still it flitted across our minds that they were becoming very faithful muleteers all at once, and perhaps intended doing better work for the future. That evening we impressed upon them the necessity of making double marches again, as the last two days we had only made single, and told them how impossible it was to march much further without meeting somebody, and gave orders for them to commence loading at 3.30 a.m.

On waking up the following morning we found no attempt was being made to collect the mules, and it was 5 o'clock before they could be induced to bring them all in from grazing. Then we noticed that muttering was going on, but no attempt at loading up. Failing to elicit any reply from them for their conduct, I upbraided them severely for their laziness, and told them that if the only thing they wanted was to remain where they were and not come along with us any more, to do so by all means, but that Malcolm, Shahzad Mir, and myself, whatever they might choose to do, intended marching. Thereupon they replied sullenly that they would go no further, and hurriedly taking up their belongings from amongst a heap of baggage, they moved off in a body in a southerly direction, and were soon hidden from sight by the rising ground.

All this happened in a very short space of time, and fortunately, at the moment of the dispute, Esau and Lassoo were a little way off, busy with our things, or they too would have joined the deserters, as they one day afterwards told us. As it was, when we began to collect the mules again to try and load them, Lassoo was very uncertain in his mind as to which party he should throw his lot in with. Had he gone off with the muleteers, our difficulties would have been doubled, for none of us had had much experience in loading mules, and, even with it, loading a mule properly is no easy matter, whereas Lassoo had been a muleteer, and was far handier and quicker at the work than any of our other men. This we had already noticed, as he often used to give them a helping hand.

It was some time before we could collect all the mules again. Some of them seemed to know there was something up, and there was every chance of their being deserters. One little black chap in fact was so clever at evading our united efforts to catch him, that we had to give him up as a bad job, and load eleven animals instead of twelve.

We were reduced to so small a party that Shahzad Mir had to carry the plane-table. Either Malcolm or myself, taking a mule by the head rope, would lead the way, leaving only three to drive the mules along and keep them together, and readjust the loads, which was frequently necessary owing to our inexperience.

On looking over our baggage we found we had made one great mistake; we had allowed the muleteers to go off with the twenty remaining pounds of flour. But we had no inclination to run after them; they might have led us a chase for days, by which time the flour would have been eaten. What we were most anxious to do was to let these men see that we were in a position to be independent of their help, for we surmised they would very likely be watching us from a distance.

We learnt afterwards that these muleteers had deserted in accordance with a preconcerted plan, formed even before leaving Shushal, on the Pangong Lake, when every man had sworn to follow Ghulam Russul, whatever he might choose to do, and they had agreed amongst themselves to leave us as soon as the rations ran short. Furthermore, Ghulam Russul, whom they well knew had been with Littledale on his last famous journey, had deluded them into the idea that he could show them the way into Lhassa. They had imagined that if they all left us, it would be impossible for us to load up and march without them, and that we should be compelled to remain where we were. At night-time they had planned to come and steal our mules and ride on them to the capital.

As we moved off, we felt somewhat anxious in our minds as to whether we should find water, grass, and droppings for our fire, for if we met with ill luck we thought it quite probable that Esau and Lassoo too would join the muleteers. This of course would have been suicidal to them, as we were some 300 miles from Lhassa, which, as far as we knew, was the nearest inhabited place, and the exact direction of it they could not possibly have known.

We made a long march, longer than we had made for many a day, till we came to a large salt lake, round which we had to skirt. Everywhere grassy nullahs sloped down to it, and during the afternoon we came to a secluded nook with a pool of fresh water, and all around were the dried droppings of yak; evidently the place was a favourite haunt of these animals. This was a perfect camping ground for us, and, to prove to our two men how favourable our kismet was, we decided to halt. We all set to work with the unloading and watering of the mules, pitching the two little tents, making fires, and the numerous other little jobs always connected with making a camp. It seemed peaceful and quiet after all the grumbling and bickering we had been accustomed to. We were close by the edge of the lake, completely concealed in a hollow by rising ground on all sides, and we were rather anxious that the mules should not stray too high up and disclose our whereabouts. We concluded that these muleteers would not have sufficient courage and determination to march straight away, and were prepared to see an attempt being made any moment at capturing some of the mules.

Towards sunset we made preparations to guard against a surprise by night. We fastened a rope to the ground, very securely, between the two tents, to which we could picket the mules. In one tent was Malcolm and myself, and in the other Shahzad Mir, with Esau and Lassoo. At dusk we fastened all the mules to this rope, and arranged for each of us to take turns in watching throughout the night. Another advantage gained by this plan was that the animals were ready for us to load the first thing in the morning. Had we allowed them to stray during the night our work would have been doubled; as it was, it took us an hour and a half to load up. We also decided to make one long march instead of two, for being so short handed, all our time would have been spent in catching the mules and loading them. Besides, as we could not let them graze by night, we should have to give them more time by day.

Soon after dark, when everything was in readiness for the night, rain began to fall; it rained, as the saying goes, cats and dogs, such as we had never seen it rain before. All five of us were snug, dry, and warm in our little tents, from which we could watch the mules, whilst the deserters must have spent a most miserable night without any shelter and food, and the hot tea which they all loved so much. We felt that they were being deservedly punished for their sins. Esau and Lassoo soon realized how much they had already gained by following us, and they swore to stick to us through thick and thin, and this for evermore they undoubtedly did.

It rained during the greater part of the night, so that the sodden condition of the ground put all idea of early marching out of our head.

In order to lessen our work, and to make the marching easier for the mules, we decided to load only ten of them, and let two always go spare. We made a pile of the things we should not require, such as the muleteers' big cooking pot, and their tent, etc., and left them at the camp. By thus lightening our loads we reckoned we should be able to march sixteen or eighteen miles a day, an astounding fact for the muleteers, who had imagined we could not move without their aid. We drew comparisons between the welfare of the men with us and that of the deserters. The latter were possessors of all the flour and most of the cooked meat and the tobacco, but no cooking pots, while the former had three days' rice and plenty of tea, cooking utensils, and shelter at night, an advantage they were already fully aware of.

The one behind the table also Known as Mina Fu ie also Known as Kao ie