  Montaigne in one of his essays* mentions the high excellence Italian cookery had attained in his day. "I have entered into this Discourse upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my Service, and who was Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of his office: Where he fell to Discourse of this Palate-Science, with such a settled Countenance and Magisterial Gravity, as if he had been handling some profound Point of Divinity. He made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts of Appetites, of that of a Man before he begins to eat, and of those after the second and third Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and then to raise and acute the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first in general, and then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, and their Effects: The Differences of Sallets, according to their seasons, which ought to be serv'd up hot, and which cold: The Manner of their Garnishment and Decoration, to render them yet more acceptable to the Eye after which he entered upon the Order of the whole Service, full of weighty and important Considerations." It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. It is a canon of belief with the modern Englishman that the French alone can achieve excellence in the art of cookery, and when once a notion of this sort shall have found a lodgment in an Englishman's brain, the task of removing it will be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested that Englishmen or any one else should cease to recognise the sovereign merits of French cookery; all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance approval, of cookery of other schools. But the favourable consideration of any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by the testing of which they may form a comparison. This universal prevalence of French cookery may be held to be a proof of its supreme excellence—that it is first, and the rest nowhere; but the victory is not so complete as it seems, and the facts would bring grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the heart of a Frenchman like Brillat-Savarin. For the cookery we meet in the hotels of the great European cities, though it may be based on French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but a bastard, cosmopolitan growth, the same everywhere, and generally vapid and uninteresting. French cookery of the grand school suffers by being associated with such commonplace achievements. It is noted in the following pages how rarely English people on their travels penetrate where true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it has seemed worth while to place within the reach of English housewives some Italian recipes which are especially fitted for the presentation of English fare to English palates under a different and not unappetising guise. Most of them will be found simple and inexpensive, and special care has been taken to include those recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than they have hitherto been treated by English cooks. The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for certain suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the introduction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off many of the dishes. He still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her cook, for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in the work, for her valuable advice, and for the care taken in testing the recipes.
CONTENTS Preface Prologue PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON The First Day The Second Day The Third Day The Fourth Day The Fifth Day The Sixth Day The Seventh Day The Eighth Day The Ninth Day The Tenth Day PART II—RECIPES Sauces No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce No. 2. Velute Sauce No. 3. Bechamel Sauce No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking) No. 5. Genoese Sauce No. 6. Italian Sauce No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto No. 8. Tarragon Sauce No. 9. Tomato Sauce No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante No. 11. Mushroom Sauce No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce) No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way) No. 16. Supreme Sauce No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys) No. 18. White Villeroy Soups No. 19. Clear Soup No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup) No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda No. 22. Tuscan Soup No. 23. Venetian Soup No. 24. Roman Soup No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale No. 26. Soup alla Modanese No. 27. Crotopo Soup No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice No. 29. Neapolitan Soup No. 30. Soup with Risotto No. 31. Soup alla Canavese No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup) No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup) Minestre No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c. No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina No. 39. Minestra of Semolina No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery Fish No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels). No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish) No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster) No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod) No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet) No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod) No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod) No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock) No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting) No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters) No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters) No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters) No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish) No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot) No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole) No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole) No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole) No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole) No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).* No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon) No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon) No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon) No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon) No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon) No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon) No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C. No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef) No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef) No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak) No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives) No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef) No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef) No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef) No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef) No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios) No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto) No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal) No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets) No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets) No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal) No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal) No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives) No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal) No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets) No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton) No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton) No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb) No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb) No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets) Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &C. No. 95. Timballo alla Romana No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue) No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber) No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues) No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues) No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig) No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig) No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head) No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head) No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head) No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head) No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head) No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet) No. 111. Bodini Marinati No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread) No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread) No. 114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread) No. 115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread) No. 116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread and Mushrooms) No. 117. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf's Brains) No. 118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains) No. 119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) No. 120. Frittura of Liver and Brains No. 121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains) No. 122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) No. 123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread) No. 124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry) No. 125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy No. 126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese No. 127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers) No. 128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers) No. 129. Croutons alla Principesca No. 130. Croutons alla Romana Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c. No. 131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle) No. 132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken) No. 133. Pollo all'Oliva (Chicken) No. 134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken) No. 135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken) No. 136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl) No. 137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl) No. 138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl) No. 139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice) No. 140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey) No. 141. Tacchinotto all'Istrione (Turkey Poult) No. 142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant) No. 143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant) No. 144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck) No. 145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges) No. 146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe) No. 147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons) No. 148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons) No. 149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare) No. 150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare) No. 151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit) No. 152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit) No. 153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit) Vegetables No. 154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus) No. 155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts) No. 156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot) No. 157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans) No. 158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage) No. 159. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese (Cauliflower) No. 160. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower) No. 161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana No. 162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni No. 163. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery) No. 164. Sedani fritti all'Italiana (Celery) No. 165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber) No. 166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber) No. 167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots) No. 168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas) No. 169. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage) No. 170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce) No. 171 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce) No. 172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms) No. 173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables) No. 174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream) No. 175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes) No. 176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce) No. 177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach) No. 178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad) No. 179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad) No. 180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad) No. 181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles) Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian Pastes No. 182. Macaroni with Tomatoes No. 183. Macaroni alla Casalinga No. 184. Macaroni al Sughillo No. 185. Macaroni alla Livornese No. 186. Tagliarelle and Lobster No. 187. Polenta No. 188. Polenta Pasticciata No. 189. Battuffoli No. 190. Risotto all'Italiana No. 191. Risotto alla Genovese No. 192. Risotto alla Spagnuola No. 193. Risotto alla Capuccina No. 194. Risotto alla Parigina No. 195. Ravioli No. 196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina No. 197. Gnocchi alla Romana No. 198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda No. 199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake) Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes No. 200. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles) No. 201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes) No. 202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg) No. 203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs) No. 204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes) No. 205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette) No. 206. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette) No. 207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette) No. 208. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs) No. 209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle) No. 210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette) Sweets and Cakes No. 211. Bodino of Semolina No. 212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream) No. 213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream) No. 214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat) No. 215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream) No. 216. Cremona Cake No. 217. Cake alla Tolentina No. 218. Riso all'Imperatrice No. 219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes) No. 220. Cakes alla Livornese No. 221. Genoese Pastry No. 222. Zabajone No. 223. Iced Zabajone No. 224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake) New Century Sauce No. 225. Fish Sauce No. 226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.) No. 227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c. No. 228. Tomato Sauce Piquante No. 229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c. No. 230. For masking Cutlets, &c.
PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON
|
  |
