The advantages of under-drains over open drains are very great.

When open drains are used, much water passes into them immediately from the surface, and carries with it fertilizing parts of the soil, while their beds are often compacted by the running water and the heat of the sun, so that they become water tight, and do not admit water from the lower parts of the soil.

The sides of these drains are often covered with weeds, which spread their seeds throughout the whole field. Open drains are not only a great obstruction to the proper cultivation of the land, but they cause much waste of room, as we can rarely plow nearer than within six or eight feet of them.

There are none of these objections to the use of under-drains, as these are completely covered, and do not at all interfere with the cultivation of the surface.

Under drains may be made with brush, stones, or tiles. Brush is a very poor material, and its use is hardly to be recommended. Small stones are better, and if these be placed in the bottoms of the trenches, to a depth of eight or ten inches, and covered with sods turned upside down, having the earth packed well down on to them, they make very good drains.

TILE DRAINING.

The best under-drains are those made with tiles, or burnt clay pipes. The first form of these used was that called the horse-shoe tile, which was in two distinct pieces; this was superseded by a round pipe, and we have now what is called the sole tile, which is much better than either of the others.

This tile is made (like the horse-shoe and pipe tile) of common brick clay, and is burned the same as bricks. It is about one half or three quarters of an inch thick, and is so porous that water passes directly through it. It has a flat bottom on which to stand, and this enables it to retain its position, while making the drain, better than would be done by the round pipe. The orifice through which the water passes is egg-shaped, having its smallest curve at the bottom. This shape is the one most easily kept clear, as any particles of dirt which get into the drain must fall immediately to the point where even the smallest stream of water runs, and are thus removed. An orifice of about two inches is sufficient for the smaller drains, while the main drains require larger tiles.

These tiles are laid, so that their ends will touch each other, on the bottoms of the trenches, and are kept in position by having the earth tightly packed around them. Care must be taken that no space is left between the ends of the tiles, as dirt would be liable to get in and choke the drain. It is advisable to place a sod—grass side down—over each joint, before filling the trench, as this more effectually protects them against the entrance of dirt. There is no danger of keeping the water out by this operation, as it will readily pass through any part of the tiles.

In digging the trenches it is not necessary (except in very stony ground) to dig out a place wide enough for a man to stand in, as there are tools made expressly for the purpose, by which a trench may be dug six or seven inches wide, and to any required depth. One set of these implements consists of a long narrow spade and a hoe to correspond, such as are represented in the accompanying figure.

With these tools, and a long light crowbar, for hard soils, trenches may be dug much more cheaply than with the common spade and pickaxe. Where there are large boulders in the soil, these draining tools may dig under them so that they will not have to be removed.

When the trenches are dug to a sufficient depth, the bottoms must be made perfectly smooth, with the required descent (from six inches to a few feet in one hundred feet). Then the tiles may be laid in, so that their ends will correspond, be packed down, and the trenches filled up. Such a drain, if properly constructed, may last for ages. Unlike the stone drain, it is not liable to be frequented by rats, nor choked up by the soil working into it.

The position of the tile may be best represented by a figure, also the mode of constructing stone drains.

It will be seen that the tile drain is made with much less labor than the stone drain, as it requires less digging, while the breaking up of the stone for the stone drain will be nearly, or quite as expensive as the tiles. Drains made with large stones are not nearly so good as with small ones, because they are more liable to be choked up by animals working in them.[AK]

The depth of the drains must depend on the distances at which they are placed. If but twenty feet apart, they need be but three feet deep; while, if they are eighty feet apart, they must be five feet deep, to produce the same effect. The reason for this is, that the water in the drained soil is not level, but is higher midway between the drains, than at any other point. It is necessary that this highest point should be sufficiently far from the surface not to interfere with the roots of plants, consequently, as the water line between two drains is curved, the most distant drains must be the deepest. This will be understood by referring to the following diagram.

The curved line represents the position of the water.

In most soils it will be easier to dig one trench five feet deep, than four trenches three feet deep, and the deep trenches will be equally beneficial; but where the soil is very hard below a depth of three feet, the shallow trenches will be the cheapest, and in such soils they will often be better, as the hard mass might not allow the water to pass down to enter the deeper drains.

By following out these instructions, land may be cheaply, thoroughly, and permanently drained.