Maria E. Ward

There are three very important methods of controlling the bicycle, namely, steering by the hands, guiding by foot-pressure on the pedals, and guiding by the swaying of the body; and these methods may be used separately or in combination.

The wheels are kept in motion either by pedaling, or simply by gravity in descending a grade. The use of the hands on the handle-bar is two-fold for the inexperienced—for steering and for correcting undue pressure on the pedals. The hand opposite the pedal that receives too much pressure corrects the tendency of the bicycle by an extra pull on the handle-bars. This is very good exercise, but it is a useless expenditure of force, and cannot be prolonged without great fatigue. It is the work of hill-climbing done on the level. The feet are on the pedals, and the natural tendency is to press equally at all times on both pedals and pull at the same time on both handles. One pedal must descend, and the other pedal must ascend; they are attached to the same axle, which is turned by either pedal or both pedals. As the pedals are always on opposite sides of a circle, one is always coming up, and its upward tendency is resisted by any pressure, however slight. The lifting of the foot, therefore, from the ascending pedal means easy wheeling. This is one of the hardest things to realize. If there is little or no pressure to resist from the up-coming pedal, it is necessary to expend but little force to propel or push the down pedal; only enough, indeed, to overcome the weight or inertia of the bicycle and the bicyclist and of surface friction, provided there is no grade. But of grades, there are many; and to this is due the infinite variety of the sport of cycling, the muscular development and increased respiration of the cycler.

CORRECT PEDALING.

The handle-bars should at all times be ready to receive a sudden grip or squeeze. Grip the handles hard when you want to hold on, and only pull as much as is absolutely necessary; for if the arms are stiff and rigid from pulling on the bars, they will not be sensitive enough to control the bicycle. The handles of the bar are the ends of a pair of levers; and the nearer the hand to the centre of the bar, the less power is needed to oppose the other hand. When there is a tendency to pull hard on the handles, gradually slip the hands near the middle of the bar, and the pull will ease up. The front wheel, to run easily, should run steadily; and the less wiggle there is, the better for steady travel.

The pedal is the projection on the crank adapted to the use of the foot. There are many varieties of pedals, of differing sorts, weights, patterns, and purposes. The foot placed on the pedal pushes it down; the push is communicated to the wheel to propel the bicycle forward. As the pedal leaves the dead centre, the power begins to take effect, and continues until the dead centre below is reached. Now, it is necessary to push at just the right time and place; if too soon and too hard, the wheels of the bicycle will go too fast, and must be retarded by pressing down on the up-coming pedal. The natural weight pressure of the foot is more than enough to propel the bicycle over ordinary surfaces at a fair rate of speed, without the application of great muscular power.

The foot should be placed squarely on the pedal, the ball of the foot only resting on it, and the toe pointing downward. The foot may be made to perform divers duties, and numberless new combinations of pressure can be and are called for and applied.

To apply more power in the stroke, begin to push when the pedal is all the way up, the toe pointing down until at the lowest part of the stroke, ready to follow the pedal around, pushing it backwards, and helping to lift it. Here the toe-clip helps, and holds the foot on the pedal, in the place where the tendency to leave it is greatest. Balanced pedaling is a little different, and weight-pressure on the pedal is used as a factor to overcome the front wheel.

Use the weight as much as possible to propel, and reserve the push for hard grade-work. Keep the knees well turned in; it squares the foot and prevents the ankle from receiving hard knocks. When the knee is turned out, the ankle bones are turned in, and so receive many a bruise that could have been avoided. To keep the ankles from interfering, turn the knees in, and ride square leg.

Controlling a bicycle on a down-grade requires pressure on the ascending pedal. Point the heel down or hold the toe up, and an even pressure will be maintained. Let the lift come with the heel well squared and the leg as straight as possible, the weight to be supplied at the right point on the up stroke to control the machine. Always use the weight when possible as a supplementary driving power.

The pedals differ in construction and in material, being differently adapted for racing and for road work. A pedal with a good broad resting surface for the foot is very comfortable, though a “rat-trap” pedal used with a stiff-soled shoe is lighter and preferable. Toe-clips are desirable for those who can use them easily, but for a novice they are dangerous, being liable to cause the mishaps they are intended to prevent. Experienced bicyclers prefer any discomfort to that of a lost pedal, and when wheeling with only a light, even pressure, toe-clips are good reminders; but their principal use is to apply more power and help the foot to carry the pedal around and back.

The swaying of the body controls the bicycle from the saddle. In walking the bicycle about, it is soon perceived that it may be directed by holding the saddle only. The pressure comes from the saddle, and the bicycle is swayed by the rider, by leg pressure against the saddle. There is little or no shoulder movement, and the body, though flexible, does not move perceptibly. When starting a machine, hold it well balanced by the handle-bars, and know how much inclination to allow. Take hold, and mount steadily and easily, and move off quietly, noting the running of the bicycle. Gradually increase the speed, leaning a little forward to lessen any sudden strain and to help the push on the pedals. Then increase the stroke to the desired speed, and the machine will take care of itself. Speed power may be increased, and it is good practice to slow, and start again at will.

Figure wheeling, with a good leader, is capital practice to insure steadiness and increase the power of control over the bicycle. It is not easy to stop suddenly when going at a good rate of speed, and it is well to know your limit of distance in such case; nor is it easy to spring alertly from the saddle when bringing up in a dangerous position, even when frightened into doing it. Back pedal hard, grip with the hands and press down, holding the bicycle still as you reach the ground. The pedals will not get in the way, and it is well to remember not to let go of the machine if you do not want to get hurt. To jump off and hold the bicycle still may at times prevent collisions.

The cyclist, however sure of his skill, should not throw his machine at any one, even inadvertently. There is much unnecessarily fine riding done—dashing between two passing vehicles, for instance, or rushing through a gap instead of wheeling slowly behind a wagon until an open space is reached; but some prefer the stimulation and excitement of danger to safety, and like to perform such hazardous feats.

Steering is a subject for serious consideration; a sharp eye, quick determination, constant care, and a steady hand are needed. A knowledge of steering is essential for safe coasting; and as one of the pleasures of cycling is to descend easily the hill you have climbed, a fair degree of steadiness should be attained. Brakes are important aids. Learn to brake with the foot, but do not resort to this expedient unless compelled to.

Now to consider hill-work. The resistance of the grade is always perceptible; it is not always recognized. As the angle of ascent increases, the powers of the bicyclist are taxed.

The spindle of the pedal describes a circle. The foot part of the pedal revolves around the spindle, and permits the foot to take any angle that is needed for the best application of power, the plane always, however, remaining parallel with the spindle. This arrangement of the pedal allows of ankle-motion within certain limits; and to give greater efficiency, the foot and ankle may move in adjustment with the weight and power to be applied. This is the much-talked-of ankle-motion. The pressure may be applied to the pedal by this ankle-motion at any part or at all parts of the circle that the pedal describes.

As constructed, the pedal permits free ankle and instep movement, prevents cramping of the foot, and allows the foot the same freedom that it has in walking or running. Ease of work depends on proper application of power. To be able to apply just the right amount of push to carry the crank past the dead centre, and to pull it past the lowest dead centre, and to follow the pedal accurately, is the aim of all good pedal work. The push down is almost instinctive; but the lifting of the weight from the ascending pedal can be acquired only by practice, when the muscles have become sufficiently accustomed to the work to move without the effort of mental concentration that they seem to require in the beginning.

The power of the stroke may be given by applying the weight after the dead centre is passed.

The weight should be entirely removed from the ascending pedal, and the balance and sway used to take the pull off the handle-bars by throwing the weight from side to side for that purpose. The weight and balance should be directed in this way: If the push on the down pedal only is used, it must be corrected by a pull on the handle; this pull increases as the grade obstructs the wheel. Skilful hill-work shows in the lessened pull on the handles.

In travelling on the level, the ascending foot is pushed up, and rested by being lifted. There is no reason why the pushing muscles should be stronger than the lifting muscles of the leg except that they are accustomed to do more work.

Always try to ride a hill, but never begin by looking at the top to see how far off it is. Pay no more attention to the surface than is absolutely required by the nature of the surface. Concentrate all thought on the pedals and how best to push or take the pull off the handle-bars. Lean a little forward if necessary, and do not try to increase the stroke. The number of strokes is bound to lessen if the power is not increased proportionately on the ascent. And how can the power be effectively applied unless the work is done intelligently by mental application, or instinctively by the use of accustomed muscles?

Hills should be ridden easily, or not ridden at all. It is easier to wheel up an ascent than to walk up, if the wheeling is properly done. Always stop before the hill proves too much for you. Never think any incline too steep to attempt; this is the first move on the road to successful hill-climbing.

The seat for hill-work should be made to support the body. The bicyclist should not be obliged to cling to the handles to keep from slipping off over the saddle; there should be something else to push against. To get all possible power out of the levers, there should be a sufficiency of fulcrum for the lever to work against; and the saddle should certainly be made to do duty in hill-work.

If there is no support from the rear of the saddle, the fulcrum must be located at the handle-bars, which should have all possible strain removed from them to lessen the pedal work. A saddle placed at this angle is of little use as a fulcrum on an incline. In all work, levers and fulcrums are kept in position by the hands, unless the weight is supported from the saddle. If this principle of the application of power is considered, the usual difficulty of hill-climbing is overcome. Why should it be harder to wheel up hill than to walk up and push a bicycle?

In the first place, it is necessary to be able to stay on the bicycle without holding yourself on; in the next place, to know how to apply the power; and then to perform the work, keeping all essential points well in mind. Wheel up hill with the mouth shut, or get off; wheel slowly; concentrate power to apply it most effectively.

Power is needed in overcoming both the crank dead centres. The weight should be applied to force the crank downward, and the weight lifted to let the other crank rise. The body sways to ease the handle pull, and the bicycle mounts steadily. The inertia, of course, becomes more apparent as the weight is resisted by gravity; so do not attempt to force or strain, with the idea that hill-climbing is something that must be done. It should be done only when it can be done easily.

The rule for climbing universally recommended reads, “Pay no attention to the hills. Ride them.” This is good as far as it goes, but it is of little assistance in mounting an incline.

There are two kinds of grades independent of the angle—the increase grade and the decrease grade, in ascending, and in descending as well; for descending is only the reverse of ascending. In approaching an ascending grade, always note its character, whether long or short, what the pitch is, and particularly if the angle of ascent increases or decreases at the top of the incline, and prepare for the work before you.

Each hill has its peculiarities, which must be studied and conquered. The actual mounting to the top is not all you have to do; you should mount in proper trim, arriving at the summit fresh and fit. It is most saddening to see some one else mount a hill easily, leaving you, puffing and pushing, half way up, and to know that, when you reach the top, speechless and exhausted, that exasperating person will be seated there, cool, contemplative, and comfortable.

Intelligent practice, however, should result in scientific attainment. The saddle should be adjusted in relation to the pedals for the carrying of the cranks past the dead centre. The angle of the saddle should be studied, and the adjustment permit of its use as a fulcrum in hill-work, while admitting of balance-work on a level and of comfort and ease in coasting. It should support the weight when the feet are on the forks, not merely permit of balancing.

In studying this adjustment, weight, length of limb, strength, and the work to be done should all be taken into consideration. The rule that what is lost in speed is gained in power should comfort the hill climber when, half-way up a grade, the bicycle gradually loses speed, and seems to be stopping, in spite of all efforts to the contrary.

In mounting, the machine is started by the placing of the weight on the pedal, and in hill-climbing the weight should be used to force the pedal down and around. The bringing of the pedal into position where the weight will take effect is the true secret of success. Follow this by making the weight carry as far as possible, prolonging its usefulness by pushing the pedal back past the lowest dead centre, and following and lifting it. But it is useless to prolong the work if the commencement of the stroke is not executed in an effective manner.

The up-coming pedal must either be pulled up, or have all weight removed to permit the power to be fully effective on the down pedal. What is the point where power applied will begin to tell? If the upper dead centre is left to be overcome by the downward stroke of the foot on the pedal, the foot on the ascending pedal is doing no work, only kept from doing harm, held in a cramped position.

After carrying the crank past the lower dead centre, the weight is removed and the angle of the foot changed from pointing the toe down to holding the toe up and dropping the heel. As the foot-rest will follow the sole of the foot, it is a simple matter to change the pressure from pushing and pulling up to pressing and shoving over. Before the crank has arrived at the top of the circle, say at sixty degrees, the heel should be lowered, and the attention directed to pushing the cranks over and past the dead centre. As the top of the circle is reached, the foot levels, and prepares to point the toe to make an effective downward thrust. Rise from the saddle a little at this point, to make the weight more effective, and prepare to carry the pedal back as far as possible. This method leaves very little time for the foot to change its angle. From the toe pointing downward to the toe held up ready to push, the change from pull to push is abrupt, and hill-work depends on correct ankle-motion more than anything else. The ankle-motion may be corrected by swaying, the hands meanwhile being held lightly on the handle-bars ready for emergencies, but not used for the work of climbing.

The breathless condition induced by extra work may be remedied; for the upper chest is forced to expand, while, if the arms are held rigid, a plentiful supply of air for the lungs is not insured. (See Chapter on Exercises). Free combustion is needed for the extra power exerted.

The bicycle and its load are lifted, and a given weight requires a given power to lift it. That power must be supplied by the stored force of the human body, and must be utilized to the best advantage if the work is to be prolonged. Hill-work is not impossible of achievement; but it requires intelligent work unless one applies mechanical laws intuitively. Easy hill-work is delightful; it is work, hard work, but work done without strain. Nothing, on the other hand, can be more injurious than forced hill-climbing; the strain on heart and lungs is severe, particularly for one wearing a tight belt, or any constrictive clothing about the waist.

Because a hill looks rough and the surface difficult, it does not at all follow that it will be bad wheeling. If the tires are not too full, inequalities of surface are an assistance, helping to block the wheels, and preventing them from slipping back, while the soft tire takes up the stones and bumps, holding on by them. Always look well at your hill on approaching it; study its inclination, determine its grade, and the nature of its surface, and quickly decide how best to attack it.

On mounting the top of a grade, never hurry or increase speed; wheel along slowly and easily, with the mouth shut, until rested and really ready to start up. If there is a good coast, don’t hurry to it, but keep working gently until the balance of the respiratory organs is fully restored. Then take the coast, and all the benefits of hard work, and rest, and the exhilarating effects of swift motion and free oxidation are fully realized.

To work in balance or equilibrium is the aim of hill-work, and there should not be too abrupt a transition after severe exertion. Pedal along at a pace to restore the breathing after hard work, then change; never dismount when breathless, but wheel along slowly. The strain is thus much less than by forcing the body to accommodate itself to a change of position just when a general easing is required, a general slackening of all the muscles that have been at work.

Rest always before dismounting long enough at least to restore breathing; and rather than coast after climbing, back-pedal gently and slowly if the grade should descend from the top of the ascent.

Never let a hill get the better of you, if it is one that you have a chance to attack a second time. Set to work and study it. Find out the changes of grade, and prepare for a change in the amount of power at the proper place in the incline. See if the grade is simple, prolonged, or compound. If the surface is very smooth, it will be more difficult. There is a bit of road that I remember well, a country road, seemingly good enough, with a little grade perhaps in some places; but, one after another, it dismounted us all. A heavy Telford pavement was laid, but there was still a mile and a half of that road that winded the best of us every time. Though it was up grade all the way, experience had taught us that at places we must stop, and mount again and go on. Our machines were heavy, but this fact did not explain what puzzled us; for it ought not to be easier to start a heavy wheel up a grade than to continue to wheel up steadily. Knowing this bit of road so well, we were on the lookout to note its effect on others; and there were always wheels lined up at some part of the road, and a curious variety of expressions on the countenances of their riders—puzzled defeat on those unacquainted with the road, and sad determination on those who knew it too well.

After a careful study of this grade, that was long but not steep, and seemingly not difficult, we found it made up of a series of differently inclined planes and curves, the up-curves all against us; and, taken from foot to top, there was a continued increase of pitch, with certain changes that were all against wheeling; and moreover a generally increasing pitch for the whole distance, and four places of change of grade, each change an increase of pitch and an increased angle of ascent. The smooth surface concealed these difficulties at first, making the deceptive stretch appear easy and inviting. It was like the inside of a curved line set with scollops.

To overcome this most difficult kind of incline, wheel along at a good pace, note the increase of grade, and drop the heel at the beginning of the down stroke, or rather while the pedal is half way on the up stroke and the foot is prepared to resist the change. Take into consideration the fact that an increase of power is necessary; look where to apply it, adjust the balance of the body to the work, and your work will be effective.