Arklow, 10 m. S. of Wicklow.—See Bridge of 19 arches over the Avoca; modern Ch.; Barracks in commanding situation; ruins of Castle, an old Tower forming part of the Barracks; and general appearance of town picturesque. See the mausoleum near to it, to the memory of the Howard family, conspicuous on a lofty hill. The picturesque and poetic tourist may amuse himself with tracing the romantic scenery of the Avoca and Avonmore. See Ballyarthur, the prospect from which, as described by Mr. Wakefield, must not be omitted by the tourist. This view is best seen from the terrace, which runs along the summit of the northern bank that forms one side of the vale of Arklow. The walk is 1 m. in length, with a summer house in one part where the view is very fine, below which a slope of great extent, clothed in wood, runs down to the united streams of the Avoca and Derry, proceeding in one channel into the ocean at Arklow. This hollow or valley is much wider than to admit of being called a glen, being about 1½ m. in breadth; and from hence, looking directly inland, is a fine extent of mountain scenery, the most conspicuous feature of which is the Croan mountain fronting a woody bank which forms part of the vale and extends nearly 3 m. Following Mr. Wakefield's hints, the tourist will now direct his eye down the glen, where the river is seen pursuing its winding course until it is lost in cultivated fields, bounded by rocky heights of various forms and tint. On each side is a magnificent prospect of the ocean; and more immediately to the left lies a most delightful rising bank, covered with oaks, and forming the northern side of the river. Here, says Mr. W., the lively appearance of the woods, the tints of their waving foliage, the magnificence of the mountain scenery, and the wide expanse of the ocean displaying its surface, all combine to render this one of those extraordinary scenes of nature which rivet the attention with delight. The immediate foreground has a curious effect, being formed of the tops of trees; whilst the river lies below with slips of cultivated land scattered about its banks, and encompassed by the most beautiful woody scenery. Mr. W. then directs the tourist to follow the course of the river in an opposite direction towards Rathdrum, when the extent of the woods will almost induce him to imagine himself in the midst of one of those immense forests which extend over the wildest scenes of nature. Here too a rapid river, flowing from the mountains, rolls its shallow stream with wonderful rapidity along its rough and pebbly bed; whilst the opposite side of the glen is covered with wood to the very summit, behind which are lofty mountains that seem almost to touch the skies. Cross the river, pursue the road on the opposite side, and particularly notice a beautiful view of both sides of the glen in long perspective, with the river winding in the bottom of it, and the sea terminating the prospect. Visit Ballykin, seat of the Whaleys, erected on ancient Abbey. At Ballyrane, a Danish rath in high preservation. Carnew, 12 m. S.W., is a very strong situation, and was long the head-quarters of the sept of O'Toole, who preserved their independence for several centuries. It has a lofty square Castle with towers and battlements, still in tolerable preservation as far as regards the walls, which are of a blueish stone and of very good workmanship. The turrets are supported on consoles or brackets, and the whole has a commanding appearance, but is disfigured by the wretched cabins which crowd round the base of its venerable walls. Also ruins of old Ch. From hence the tourist may visit what remains of the ancient oak forest of Shillelagh. Cronebane, 7 m. W. from Arklow, possesses a mountain stream, a modern Pactolus, which separates the counties of Wicklow and Wexford. In the bed of this river large pieces of gold have several times been found; but when a regular search was instituted, the quantity taken did not pay the contingent expenses. Some lumps were also found in the Wicklow side of the mountain; and the tourist, if he picks up no specimens, may at least pick up health and amusement in his search. The waters of this place have been supposed to transmute iron into copper; but the fact is, that they precipitate the contained copper upon iron bars immersed therein; after which the precipitate is fluxed, and yields about one half pure copper. Examine the copper ore, which is found in one spot in a large vein at the depth of 390 feet; also the mode of procuring copper from the water, by its deposition on iron bars. Cronbane-house is a mansion highly deserving of notice, for its singular situation on a piece of land elevated, as Mr. Wakefield describes it, to nearly half the height of the mountain which forms the back-ground. The view from it is very fine; for two rivers, the Avon and the Avoca, wind round it in a semicircular form, exhibiting a broken outline, which gives them a romantic appearance, and shrouding the valley of Glendalough in their bosom. The home grounds and walks also possess many beauties. Kilcarra Castle, 3 m. from the sea, is the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, lately ornamented with towers and castellated front; in a retired spot on gentle declivity, with romantic glen. The new mail-coach road leading past this district affords many views of fine scenery. Shelton is the beautifully situated mansion of the Earl of Wicklow, at the base of a range of hills luxuriantly clothed in wood. Here are some of the finest beeches and chestnuts in Ireland. House ancient but modernized.
Baltinglass, 17 m. W. of Wicklow, is pleasantly seated on the Slaney, with a good trade and some manufactures. The Castle is in good repair, and now forms a comfortable mansion. Near it, on the banks of the Slaney, are the remains of the Abbey, consisting of a long Chapel totally in ruins, with a belfry tower, and a lofty plain E. window. Part of it is still roofed, and fitted up for divine service. Druidical remains in the vicinity; and the name is evidently derived from the worship of Baal, or Apollo; a circumstance that renders its antiquities highly interesting. Visit from hence a very curious Rath at Donard, on a hill called Slievh Guth or Church Mountain, about 6 m. distant. Here is a holy well to which numerous pilgrims repair. Stratford in the vicinity is a town of very recent erection, judiciously planned, but not successful as it ought to be. The cotton manufacture, however, flourishes.
Blessington, 18 m. N.W. of Wicklow, stands agreeably on the Liffey, on the verge of the county, with a handsome modern Ch.; and near it the ruins of the Marquis of Downshire's noble mansion destroyed in the rebellion. Ballymore Eustace has been already described in Kildare. Poll-a-phuca may be visited from this place, with a curious ruin of a Ch., and part of a Round Tower, and stone cross near it. The cascade at this place is considered by Miss Plumptre as much finer than the one at Powerscourt. It is formed by the Liffey amongst abrupt rocky scenery, well planted with shrubs, with shady walks, and prospect seats arranged by the taste and liberality of the late Earl of Milton, whose mansion at Russborough with a centre and wings extending 700 feet, of the Corinthian and Ionic orders, with a good collection of paintings, is worthy the tourist's notice.
Bray, 13 m. N. of Wicklow and 11 S. of Dublin, is a place of considerable fashion in the summer as a bathing-place, independent of its enchanting scenery and vicinity to some of the sweetest charms of the county. See the Martello Towers; also Bray-head, with marble and other extensive quarries: old Castle; and river with good trout-fishing; Ch. in bold romantic situation. A pleasant jaunt is to go to Kilmacannoch Ch. in ruins, 3 m.; thence to the Glen of the Downs; ascend a hill on the right, catching a delightful view of Delganny Ch. on a rising hill above the village, with the sea in the distance; thence proceed to Newton Mount Kennedy, 8½ m. from Bray, and to the vale of Dunran; then 4½ m. to the Devil's Glen, with fine views of Glendaloch, Luggela, &c.; further on to Rosanna and Newry Bridge and Wicklow. The Dargle, a most romantic glen about 1 m. in length, and amidst the Powerscourt scenery, is one of the usual Irish wonders; but its description would far exceed all possible limits. Let the tourist attend to the fine ranges of wood; to the river in the bottom tumbling from rock to rock; to the immense height and grandeur of the precipices; and to the various breaks of extended prospect which present themselves in several directions. See Miss Plumptre's Tour, p. 83: also further under Powerscourt. At Delgany, a handsome modern Ch. with a superb monument to the memory of Mr. Latouche. Ennisherry is a pretty little place much frequented by invalids, standing near a river at the base of a lofty hill. Near it is the Glen of the Downs, through which runs the new mail-coach road to Wicklow. The best mode of visiting this romantic spot is to proceed to Bellevue, the seat of Mr. Latouche, which is about a mile from the sea coast and commands a very fine view of Bray-head, with an extent of marine scenery of considerable interest stretching towards Wicklow-head. According to Mr. Wakefield's description, the principal objects of attention, on first entrance, are the green-houses, connected with the mansion, and exhibiting to the delighted botanist a most interesting display of exotics and tender indigenous plants, some of them extremely rare. Behind the house, though not within immediate view, is the Glen of the Downs. Proceed to a banqueting-house in the pleasure-grounds, from whence is a sudden but most delightful view of this romantic scenery, lying directly below the observer, one side of the glen lined with oaks, and the opposite rising into a considerable hill clothed with rich foliage, and backed by the lofty mountain of Thomond. The tourist, if returning to Dublin, may proceed by Kilternan, 6¾ m. from the city, 1 m. beyond which is the Scalp, a remarkable chasm in a mountain which appears as if rent asunder by an earthquake. See the Sugar-Loaves in the distance. Near this are the lead mines of Shankhill amidst granite rocks, with abundance of galena, or sulphuret of lead, and mica. Collect specimens of crystallizations of carbonate of lead; also of sulphate of barytes, of phosphate of lead, and hÆmatite or oxide of iron. Kilruddery near Bray, on the old coach-road, is a romantic mansion seated in a deep valley in the midst of most picturesque scenery. Luggela, which may be visited from Powerscourt Park, has in its vicinity a lake of the same name, seated amidst an ocean of mountainous scenery, surrounded by dark and naked rocks, and presenting a sombre picture of silence and desolation: the rugged barrenness of the scene which encircles this abyss is finely contrasted, in one point, by an expanse of verdant lawn, together with some plantations, belonging to a cottage erected there by Mr. Latouche, as a banqueting retirement. A ride of a few miles, either from Dublin or Bray, leads to Powerscourt, a noble seat, the road to which is a glen between two vast ridges of mountains covered with wood, which have a very noble effect. The vale is no wider than to admit the road, a small gurgling river close to its side, with some narrow slips of rocky ground and shrubbery. The whole scenery is of a most magnificent character, and much improved by an immense conical mountain rising out of the glen, and seeming to forbid all exit or entrance. An excursion to this favoured spot combines within its arrangements the several beauties of the Scalp, the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and the Dargle: the tourist may therefore bring them all within one day's visit, if time is short, or visit them in detail after a general view. The best method is to proceed from Dublin to Altadore, after which the road for a few miles leads over mountain scenery of a pleasing character until it approaches the head of a wide extended glen, with the ocean in front and the domain of Powerscourt covered with plantations and tillage; whilst the Scalp, a lofty mountain, shuts up the view in the north, and is finely contrasted on the opposite side of the compass by the Sugar-Loaf. Let the tourist now turn completely round, and he will discover a magnificent glen, richly covered with foliage, with an astonishing waterfall at its extremity, said to be 360 feet in height. Mr. Wakefield observes that these objects, however, form only a small part of the romantic scenery which fills this charming district; and he says that in the extent of about 6 m. from the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and from the waterfall to the ocean, a similar distance, nature has scattered her picturesque beauties with so liberal a hand, that the view altogether reminds the spectator of some of those landscapes on canvas, in which the painter, indulging his genius, has collected such an assemblage of interesting objects as are seldom found combined together in nature. The glen already described is the far famed Dargle, or the Glen of the Oaks, so that it must have been as well wooded in ancient times, as its sides are now clothed with verdant oaks, which add considerably to its native beauties. On a closer investigation the tourist observes a mountain stream tumbling over its rocky bed with great rapidity, after issuing from the foaming spray at the foot of the waterfall. Let him then proceed to the Lover's-Leap, where he will enjoy a most extensive prospect over the delightful scenery of the woods beneath him. Turning to the right he will notice the Powerscourt demesne, which includes a park that extends from the waterfall to the spot on which he stands, a distance of about 4 m., being an expanse of ground exhibiting the most uneven and varied outline, and richly planted with different trees and shrubs of the most luxuriant growth. On all sides are deep glens whose sides are covered with foliage, contrasted again by smiling lawns; whilst the mansion itself, a noble edifice built of the finest granite, is seen embosomed in trees, and overtopped by lofty mountains in almost endless succession and in all the variety of outline, blending their tints with the ethereal vapours, and forming a most striking contrast with the highly cultivated verdure of the foreground. Formerly there was a most excellent station for the accommodation of resident visitors, at an inn at Tinnehinch, but the building has been fitted up as a villa by Mr. Grattan: the tourist, however, will find other accommodation sufficiently comfortable.
Glendaloch is a spot which cannot fail to excite high interest in the minds of all persons of taste or enthusiasm; for from the very earliest ages, Ledwich observes, it has been the favourite seat of Superstition. If visited from Wicklow, (from whence it is 11 m. N.W.,) proceed 2 m. to Newry-bridge; see Glenmore Castle to the right, seat of Mr. Synge; ascend an exceedingly steep hill, with fine prospect looking back to the sea, but in front a brown dismal waste, bordering on the Devil's Glen. Proceed across a boggy flat, wild and dreary, towards Anamoe, where is a curious square earthen embankment; the road dividing, on the right to Luggela, on the left over a country dreary and mountainous to the little village of Derrybaun at the confluence of two mountain rivers, a short distance from whence first gain a view of the once famous city, with its tall Round Tower in the centre of a large wild valley, encircled with vast rugged mountains. If you approach it direct from Dublin by the new road, fail not to notice a charming sheet of water, Lough Bray, with shores embraced by stupendous cliffs, overtopped by lofty mountains. If going by the Wicklow road, fail not to notice the Devil's Glen, already mentioned, which Miss Plumptre considers as the finest in the county. The vale is about 11 m. N.W. from Wicklow, and 22 m. S. from Dublin, from whence it forms an agreeable morning ride, and is surrounded on all sides, except to the E., by stupendous mountains, whose vast perpendicular height throws a gloom on the deep dell below, well suited to inspire religious dread and horror: for, being covered with brown heath, or more sable peat, their summits reflect no light whatever. As nothing facilitates the observation of the tourist more readily than a clear idea of the topography of the place he visits, it may now be stated to him, that on entering the vale, he will perceive towards the S. the mountains Lugduff and Derrybaun, separated only by a small cataract, opposite to which, and on the other side of the lake, is Kemyderry, between which and Broccagh on the north side is a road leading from Hollywood to Wicklow. At the west end of the upper lake he will observe a cascade called Glaneola Brook, falling from the hill; and further on St. Kevin's Keeve, a small stream from Glendason river, and in which Superstition still dips weak and sickly children every Sunday and Thursday before sunrise,—and certainly with an efficacy which an early cold bath must produce on any other day of the week. Looking into the bosom of the vale, the tourist will soon perceive that these and other cataracts form a junction when they assume the name of Avonmore or the Great River, sometimes so swelled with torrents as to be rapid and dangerous, but generally confined within narrower bounds, and merely feeding two romantic little lakes separated from each other by a rich and verdant meadow. It is evident from the names of the mountains, that these eminences were once a forest; but at present the gloom of foliage is much wanted by the venerable ruins of the religious edifices, or the "Seven Churches" that give so much interest to the vale. Here once stood an extensive city, but now almost extinct, except that from what can now be discovered by its walls and foundations, it is conceived to have extended from the "Refeart Church" to the "Ivy Church," on both sides of the river; and some idea of its ancient state may be formed from its remains in the road leading from the market-place into the county of Kildare, still in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, to the breadth of ten feet. Those who wish to know all the superstitious traditions respecting this holy spot, may consult the second article in Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland, where they are related. One of these, however, must be noticed, as explanatory of one of the wonders of the place. Tradition tells, and Superstition believes, that St. Kevin, whilst ascending a neighbouring hill in a period of scarcity and famine, met a woman with a sack on her head, in which were five loaves. The woman, being rather churlish, when the saint inquired the contents of her sack, told him they were stones. "I pray they may be so," said the holy inquirer, when instantly five stones tumbled out, rolled towards Refeart Ch. where they were kept as sacred reliques for many years, but are now exhibited in the valley, weighing about twenty-eight pounds each, and certainly bearing a great resemblance to loaves, from whence this idle story has arisen. The tourist having now taken a general survey of the place, it remains to lead him through it in detail; and the first spot he meets, on approaching from the E. is the Ivy Ch., completely invested with evergreen foliage, where he observes a circular belfry, supposed by Ledwich to be one of the first attempts to unite the Round Tower with the body of the Ch. Passing on, or rather retracing his steps, a little to the S.E. is seen the eastern Ch. or Priory of St. Saviour, near which is a stone-roofed Chapel. Resuming his former route, and rambling about three hundred yards from the Ivy Ch., is a small square which was the market-place of the ancient city, with the pedestal of a stone Cross; to the southward of which he may pass the river on stepping stones, the ruins of a bridge, and then enter the solemn cemetery by a gateway with a Saxon arch, when he arrives at the Cathedral, evidently in the Saxon style of architecture. Here the E. window is deserving of notice from the curious sculptures which adorn it, representing the most miraculous actions of the patron saint. This window has the peculiarity of diminishing in size, until it becomes so narrow as to be almost impervious either to light or air; a peculiarity evidently adopted from the want of glass. Here notice a tomb of freestone on the S. side of the choir: at a short distance, the sacristy or priest's house, of which a closet, where the vestments and holy utensils were kept, still remains, to turn thrice round in which, is supposed by the vulgar to be a certain cure for the head-ache; also some remnants of crosses and sculptures worth noticing, particularly some on the tombs of the O'Tooles, ancient Irish kings, here and in the Lady's and Refeart Churches. Returning from Refeart Ch., observe a circle of stones piled up conically about three feet high, round which pilgrims still perform penance; then on a recess of the southern mountain, see St. Kevin's bed, excavated from the living rock in a projection from the mountain, also Teanpell-na-Skellis Ch. But the path to these holy curiosities is so evidently dangerous and difficult, especially in returning, from its extreme narrowness, that he who wishes to avoid the chance of a slip into the lake below will be content to admire them at a distance. Observe in the centre of the vale the ruins of the Abbey, north of which is Trinity Ch. with part of a Round Tower; also several smaller chapels and oratories. If time will not permit the tourist to complete this investigation, let him then approach this interesting scene by the bridge of Derrybaun, from whence the Seven Churches present a very picturesque and pleasing view. The bridge itself is a pleasing object in the landscape, being a modern erection of three elliptical arches over the Avonmore, covered to a great extent with an oak coppice on one side and the huge Broccagh on the other, which here confines the view up the valley, at the end of which the great Round Tower and other ruins appear to great advantage, whilst a remarkably smooth and high mountain forms a most singular and agreeable back-ground.
Newton Mount Kennedy, 7 m. S.W. of Bray, and 17 from Dublin, although placed here under a separate head, may be included in the beauties round Powerscourt and the Dargle. It is a pleasant village, on the mail-coach road, half way between Bray and Wicklow, and may therefore be made head-quarters, especially by the picturesque tourist, and even by the traveller. The tourist whose time will not permit visits beyond the immediate vicinity of the metropolis, must not fail to inspect Mount Kennedy, the seat of the late Lord Rosmore, to which there are few places in Ireland superior in beauty. The house itself, a design of Wyatt's, is finished in a high style of modern architecture; and the principal front is simple, extremely light, but enriched with an elegant portico of the Ionic order. It is seated on an eminence, and to the rear, commands a fine view of the sea at the distance of 2 m., whilst the country which the eye runs over in the interval, is extremely beautiful: from the principal front, looking towards the west, is seen the demesne, bounded at some distance by mountains which form a bold termination to the prospect. At distances from the demesne are spots which present the most striking scenes of natural beauty and ruggedness. On these the taste and fancy of the late proprietor have been exerted, so as to render them highly deserving the tourist's notice, who must not omit to inquire for Dunran, about 2 m. from the house, even if unable to visit the remaining interesting objects. This place forms a prominent feature in the list of curiosities to be visited in this very picturesque county. Dunran is indeed, by its peculiar beauties, rendered difficult to describe, and more appropriate to the pencil than the pen. Here are 200 acres of wood, water, rocks, and lawns highly dressed, in which the bold ruggedness of nature has been softened by the hand of culture so happily, as not to fritter away the characteristic grandeur of the original; whilst each romantic eminence presents a varied and extensive prospect of mountain, vale, and wood of this beautiful county, at intervals contrasted with the sublime and expansive line of the ocean. This glen has many miles of road winding through it; and the rambler will often find its deepest recesses enlivened by the cheerful parties which frequent it during the summer.
Rathdrum, 8 m. S.W. of Wicklow, forms an excellent station for the artist, with fine mountain and river scenery on the Avon; with romantic mountains towards Arklow, covered with luxuriant forests finely contrasting with the wild and savage landscape in other parts of the vicinity. See the Wool hill; some lead-mines near it, between which and Rathdrum in the valley is a romantic bridge, which Miss Plumptre strongly recommends as a subject for the pencil. Visit the beautiful grounds of Avondale, 1 m. distant: whilst here, the tourist will find a very agreeable excursion in a trip to Glenmolaur, about 14 m. from Wicklow, being a long strait glen, or valley, rude and barren, with a rivulet wandering through it between two mountains, whose tops are so broken and divided as to seem like an extensive chain, yet the sides are so smooth and steep that cattle frequently, by grazing too near, slip down and are killed by the fall. At the entrance of the glen is a lonely shepherd's cottage; and in proceeding towards its termination, the visitor finds a rugged ascent formed of huge pieces of rock loosely thrown together, whilst the ascent opens into an ample cove, or kind of amphitheatre, from the top of which descends a waterfall that feeds the stream below, and though inconsiderable in dry seasons, yet becomes a foaming cataract after heavy rains, adding greatly to the romantic wildness of the scene.
Wicklow, 24 m. S. of Dublin, stands agreeably on the side of a lofty hill. Tolerably good accommodations. See the Ch., with high steeple; modern Court-house; Gaol, and Market-house; ruins of Black Castle, on a huge rock rising from the sea; and some curious limestone caves at the base of Wicklow-head. Some remains still exist of the Abbey of Franciscan Friars, founded in the reign of Henry III. Little more is left than masses of broken walls with some fine arches; but being seated in private garden-ground, they have of late years escaped dilapidation. Wicklow ale is excellent. Ballybeg is a house and demesne near Wicklow, which to the lovers of mountain scenery cannot fail to afford gratification. Mr. Wakefield observes, that although destitute of lake or river, yet the magnificent prospect of mountain rising above mountain, until they fade in the distance, presents quite an alpine view, the distant hills clad with woody scenery, and the foreground well filled up with thriving plantations, verdant lawns, and other modern improvements. There is a very pleasant pedestrian ramble to the Devil's Glen. On the right appears the sea at some distance, extending from Wicklow-head to another headland: beneath the observer's eye is the glen with a mountain stream running along its bosom; beyond which are cultivated hills, rocky promontories, and fine plantations of evergreens surrounding the place of view;—the whole forming a scene of great beauty.
