Baltimore, 43 m. from Cork, has a good harbour; but having been plundered and burnt by the Algerines in 1631, is become a mean village. The country round it is rude and romantic, and there are many ancient Castles in decay. The tourist may from hence visit Cape Clear, the southernmost point of Ireland, on an island, where see ruins of Dunanore Castle, with the Cave and ruined Ch. of St. Kieran. Skibbereen, 5 m. from Baltimore, is described by Miss Plumptre as improving in its appearance. See Market-house and Ch.; also the ruins of Abbey Showery with ancient tombs.
Bandon, 12 m. S.W. of Cork,—is in a district not very interesting; it is extensive but ill built. See Castle Bernard, 1 m. W., also Dundanere Castle, and the chalybeate spring. Inishonan, a village, with a linen manufactory and bleach-greens. Miss Plumptre praises the scenery in the dell in which it stands, with good bridge, wooded slopes backed by the Ch., and venerable ruin of an ancient Castle.
Bantry, about 35 m. W. of Cork,—is situated on one of the finest bays in the world, and was noted by the defeat of the French squadron in 1796. The scenery amidst the mountains in which this town is embosomed, Mr. Wakefield thinks scarcely, if at all, exceeded by any other in the island, with the exception of Killarney. The views in all directions are bold, wild, and romantic; especially towards the head of the bay, which is mountainous, and abounding with scenes as rude and wild as imagination can paint or fancy anticipate. Miss Plumptre also describes it as highly worthy the notice of the picturesque tourist; and Mr. Wakefield observes, that the ride to Coolranny Bridge he thinks one of the most delightful that can be conceived. The ascent from that place to the Gowl mountains is very fine, from the gap of which the whole bay appears in its full extent, with lofty mountains on the opposite shore, and Cape Clear in the distant prospect rising above them all. Near this is Hungray Hill, 700 yards above the bay, being 20 miles from Bantry, but amply repaying by the most extensive prospect from its summit, whilst the falls of water down its sides in the winter season are extremely grand. But the greatest charm in the vicinity of Bantry is Glengariff, the road to which runs through some fine mountain scenery, and near it is the modern mansion of Mr. White, surrounded by extensive woods and standing on the edge of one of the finest indentations of the bay, perfect in its form and embosomed at the foot of lofty mountains: much of the surrounding beauty arises from the luxuriant foliage of arbutus, holly, and birch; whilst every turn opens a new glen, everywhere presenting varied and enchanting scenery, beautifully contrasted by the wildness of the opposite mountains. It is not a trifling addition to the amenity of this spot, that the mildness of the winter only strips the deciduous trees of their leaves for a very short time, whilst geraniums and myrtles, and many of the tenderest plants actually remain unsheltered during the whole year. Dursey Island in the bay has the ruins of a Castle. The Priest's Leap is a mountainous pass leading over Mangerton towards Killarney.
Castle Lyons, 15 m. N.E. of Cork.—A well built town in an agreeable vale on the banks of the Bride river. See Lord Barrymore's mansion erected on the ruins of O'Lehan's Castle; also ruins of a Franciscan Abbey, 1307. Near it Kilrea Castle in ruins, to the E. of which the venerable remains of an Abbey dedicated to St. Bridgid, about 1450, with ancient tombs and numerous awful indications of mortality.
Castlemartyr, 16 m. from Cork, a large manufacturing town.—See the ruins of the ancient Castle, and the seat and grounds of the Boyle family: the house itself is worth seeing, being antique and assimilating well with the richly clad wild remains of an ancient castle, whose venerable turrets in majestic ruin peep forth from the thick foliage at a short distance; add to this an extensive sheet of water, which gives life to the surrounding scenery. Let the botanical tourist pay particular attention to the flower-garden and green-houses, elegantly arranged under the taste and genius of the Countess of Shannon. Visit Ballycotton Bay, with extensive strand, good wild fowl shooting and excellent flat- and shell-fish. See there the Ch. and Castle of Ballycrenane. About 1 m. S.E. is the river Dour, which breaks out from a limestone rock, after a subterraneous course of near half a mile, and forms a small lake, where the Halcyon or Kingsfisher is found in great numbers: Charleville, 14 m. N. of Cork, on the borders of Limerick; see Charter School, Ch. and Barracks. The magnificent seat of the Earls of Orrery was burnt down in the wars of the Revolution by the Duke of Berwick after dinner, like the ancient Persepolis.
Cloghnakilty, 22 m. S.W. of Cork,—is seated on a shoal and dangerous bay. See the plain neat Ch. pleasingly situated, but the town is described by Miss Plumptre as poor and dirty. Dundedy or Galway Head has some curious caves worn out by the sea, also ruins of an old Castle. Iniskean, about 8 m. N., has close to it the ruins of Kinigh Ch. with remarkable round tower, a hexagon at the bottom and the upper part round, 70 feet high and 124 feet from the Ch. At Temple Bryan, 1 m. distant, are some remains of an ancient Temple; near the Ch. a stone circle with central pyramidal pillar, and two other pyramids in the immediate vicinity. At Timoleague, about 5 m. E., see ruins of O'Shaughnessy's Castle, and the extensive remains of a venerable Franciscan Abbey, 1350, with numerous tombs of Irish chieftains, Gothic cloisters, and romantic ruins of the ancient monastic apartments: see also the Holy Well.
Cloyne, about 16 m. from Cork.—See the Cathedral; the Bishop's Palace; a small Castle of the Fitzgeralds; a round tower near the Ch.; a Danish rath, and a deep extensive cave in a park near the town. 1 m. W. at Castle Mary, the seat of Lord Longueville, see the Druids' altar, a large stone 15 feet in length, 8 in breadth, and 9 feet from the ground. In the vicinity the mineralogist will find a white substance tinged with yellow ochre, which does not effervesce with acids, but forms a good white paint if mixed with linseed oil. Here also are quarries of fine gray marble. 2 m. W. is Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond, with a fine view of Cork harbour, and built on the ruins of an ancient Castle. To the S.W. see Corkbeg, a modern seat with some ecclesiastical ruins near it. The tourist may also proceed to the strand of Ballycroneen to visit an ancient pillar on a hill; also Lascally, a strong moted Danish encampment; Bally Kendrick Castle, &c.
Cork, the second city of Ireland, is 124 m. S.W. of Dublin.—Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it as affording more interest to the commercial than the antiquarian tourist; and Miss Plumptre observes that it is upon the whole recommendable to the eye only as having a general appearance of comfort and prosperity, not as offering any particular subjects to dwell upon. Mr. Curwen indeed views it with a more favourable notice, and finds many things to approve. Seated on the river Lea, the old town rising on a hill forms an amphitheatre; in the new town some of the streets are spacious, well-built, and handsome. See the Cathedral partly modernized; the Parade, a spacious street with equestrian statue of Geo. II.; the Exchange; Custom House; Botanic Garden belonging to the Literary Institution; Barracks; extensive Porter Brewery; manufactories of Paper, Glass, and Cloth; Market House, &c. The environs are thickly studded with mercantile villas, and present views of happy amelioration. See at Ballyvacadane, 4 m. from Cork, a ruined Abbey; and Ballincolly Castle built upon a rock. Barrymore Island in the bay deserves the notice of the geologist from the circumstance of having a stratum of limestone running through it, although nothing but a red gritty stone exists upon the main land in its vicinity. Blarney Castle, 3 m. distant, must not be forgotten by the tourist. It stands on a bold romantic rock, its walls 18 feet thick, and bore a long siege at the Revolution, but was taken by King William's troops. Part only of the ancient Castle remains, but with modern additions. Those who please may kiss the well-known stone on the summit of the tower, and acquire a perpetual license for flattery and fiction. Carigrohan Castle to the w. has still some remains on a high precipice over the river. The tourist may visit Cove, and the Giant's Stairs, a curious natural production. The marine views in an aquatic excursion to Cork Harbour are very fine; the whole of it is indeed surrounded by stations which command the most beautiful and diversified prospects. If approaching it direct from the sea, the grand panorama which opens to the view in sailing up the narrow entrance, has a most striking effect: on the right Cork Beg, a seat of the Fitzgeralds, with some Abbey ruins; beyond it the woods of Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond; then Haulbowling Island, and the lofty hills to the left, forming altogether a grand and impressive scene. Glanmire, 5 m. distant, is a beautiful glen on a narrow arm of the sea, with neat village and Ch. and good view of the harbour. At Monkstown see the fine old Castle on a wooded eminence.
Doneraile, about 16 m. N. of Cork,—has a neat Ch. with lofty spire; see the Barracks on ruins of the old Castle; also some quarries of variegated marble near to it. See ruins of Castletown Roche, gallantly defended by Lady Roche against Cromwell's forces; also Carrigrocunny Castle and romantic ruins of an ancient Abbey at Bridgetown. Castle Saffron, 1 m. E., has several agreeable cascades on the river. Kilcoleman Castle in ruins, 2 m. N.W., will always be interesting to the lover of ancient British poetry, as the spot where Spenser wrote his FaËry Queen. The scenery is magnificent, and the prospect extensive. Monanimy, about 7 m. S., has the ruins of an old Castle and Abbey.
Fermoy, a newly built elegant town of four streets crossing each other at right angles, the work of a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Anderson, is about 15 m. N.E. of Cork; with a bridge of 13 arches mantled with ivy. See the extensive barracks; modern Ch.; ruins of ancient Castles in its vicinity. See Ballyhooly, a picturesque village; also Castle Hyde, a seat well wooded; and ruins of Creg Castle. Miss Plumptre and Mr. Curwen speak highly of the patriotic improvements in this town and vicinity.
Kinsale, 12 m. S. of Cork,—has a spacious harbour, and has been noted from the earliest times in Irish history. It was taken by the Spaniards in 1600, and stood a siege by the Duke of Marlborough in James's wars. See some remains of ruined Abbeys in the town: visit also Charles Fort, 1 m. E. in 1670. The picturesque tourist may visit the Old Head, 4 m. S., with Light-house, and ruins of Duncearma Castle, the old seat of Irish kings.
Kilworth, a thriving town about 20 m. N.E. of Cork,—has some good mountain scenery in its vicinity. Near it is Moorfield, the superb residence of Lord Mount Cashel, also ruins of Cloughleagh Castle.
Macroom, about 16 m. W. of Cork.—See ancient Castle built by King John, still inhabited; also the handsome Ch. In the river Sillane the sportsman will find good trout-fishing. At Agh-a-bollogue, see old Ch. and Holy Well, with the stone called St. Olan's Cap, about which are many superstitious and legendary tales. At Ballyvourney, 6 m. W., see ruins of Ch. with stone Cross and Holy Well. At Carig-a-drohid, 3 m. E., ruins of Castle on steep romantic rocks; and at Carrigafouky, 2 m. W., ancient ruins of MacCarty's Castle on a wild craggy precipice, with remains of a Druidical altar. Dunda Rock, 6 m. S., has a lofty Castle commanding a most extensive prospect. Glyncaum, or the crooked Glyn, is a deep hollow way between steep craggy rocky walls covered with forest trees and shrubby foliage, to the S. of which see ruins of Magshanagloss Castle. Gougenabera, 5 m. N., on the road from Cork to Killarney, presents most romantic scenery round the wild solitude of its secluded lake. Near it is Inchigeela, which offers considerable amusement to the mineralogist. At Lesecresig, on the summit of a hill 2 m. from Macroom, see an ancient cairn with Druidical altar.
Mallow, 12 m. N. of Cork, has long been celebrated as a watering-place. See ruins of an old Castle, Ch., and Barracks; also bridge over the Blackwater, and ruins of an ancient Castle in the well wooded Jephson demesne. Sir R. C. Hoare details some curious traditions respecting it. Also Ballyellis, handsome seat of the Hare family. At Ballynamona, 3 m. S. (so famed in Irish melodies), are ruins of Mourne Abbey. Buttevant, a few miles distant, will amply repay the antiquary for a visit, by the remains of its venerable Abbey; ruins of ancient towers and other picturesque scenery: near to it see Ballybeg, where are ruins of an ancient monastery of Augustines. Dromagh, about 10 m. N.W., has an old Castle of the O'Keefes, with ruins of a Nunnery: and at Kanturk, 3 m. distant, are several remnants of castellated antiquity. Liscarrol, about 5 m. W. of Buttevant, has an ancient Castle in ruins, and was the scene of sanguinary battles in the civil wars. See deep hole, supposed to be fathomless, called Kateshole. Lohort Castle is an old Elizabethan mansion of Lord Arden, fortified in the ancient style with a moat, having a fine terrace on its roof and surrounded with pleasing plantations. Newmarket in the vicinity has some good mountain scenery; and the tourist may visit Woodfort, a handsome seat, with a turret on a hill, from whence a most enchanting prospect.
Mitchelstown, a neat little town, 21 m. N.E. of Cork.—See the magnificent seat of Lord Kingston, and the College, a liberal charity. See in the vicinity, at Brigowne, 1 m., ruins of Ch. and round tower: 1½ m., ruins of Caherdriny Castle; 2 m., ruins of Carriganoura Castle. Castle Hyde near to Mitchelstown deserves a visit. The grounds are extensive, and the house is curiously seated at the base of a lofty rock. The park contains much diversified scenery, and is traversed by the romantic Blackwater. See the marble quarries, esteemed as handsome as any in Ireland; of a dark gray colour with various shades, and a rich display of shells. At Skehewrinky, see the cave in a limestone hill of dangerous descent, but beautifully encrusted with spar and resembling a vaulted cathedral.
Middleton, half way between Cork and Youghall, at the N.E. corner of Cork harbour. See some ancient ruins of a Castle and Abbey; the Market-house; public Freeschool, an elegant building; some remains of Danish works and a large rath at Ballinachora. Several of the curiosities are noticed under Cloyne.
Mill Street, 20 m. N.W. is a small village, with some appearance of the linen manufacture. The roads are bad; but it has near it a continued range of mountains that deserve investigation, particularly two amongst them called the Papps, from their singular resemblance to the human breast, and having two little protuberances on the very summit of each, which enforce the resemblance more strongly: these Sir R. C. Hoare suspects to be carnedds or Tumuli. Near it see ruins of Clodagh Castle, feudal seat of the Mac Swinneys, once distinguished for its hospitality by an inscription inviting all strangers to enter; at Clondrohid, ancient Ch. and Danish encampments; and 1 m. W., on Lessecresighill, vestiges of a Druidical altar. At Kilnamartery, curious white rocks, at a distance resembling the ruins of a magnificent city.
Rathcormuck, 12 m. N.E. of Cork, a decent town, with Ch. and neat Market-house. See to the N. Cairn Tierna, a range of mountains with an ancient cairn, forming a conspicuous object. Glanmire is described by Miss Plumptre as a village in a beautiful and romantic situation:—trace the rivulet through the deep and picturesque glen. Glanworth has spacious ruins of an ancient Castle, and some remains of a Dominican Abbey, with good river scenery. 1 m. distant is a most curious sepulchral monument called Labacally or the Hag's Bed, said by tradition to have belonged to a giantess of whom many ridiculous fables are related. Its real history and antiquity are unknown: it consists of several broad flag-stones supported by others, and most of them of an enormous size, one no less than 17 feet long and 9 broad. The whole length of this vast tomb, which is hollow underneath, is 40 feet; in breadth 14; and the whole seems to have been inclosed in a circle of flag-stones about 14 feet from the outside.
Ross, about 24 m. S.W. of Cork, may be visited from Clonakilty.—See a small Gothic Cathedral; ruins of Abbey, Barracks, and neat Market-house. Miss Plumptre describes the surrounding scenery as extremely pretty. See curious caves in the rocks by sea side. At Castlefreke good marine scenery. Castlehaven has ruins of several Castles, and remains of Spanish entrenchments in Elizabeth's time. At Dunmanway see some romantic scenery, with a curious natural wall of rocks. Glandore Bay is a most picturesque scene resembling an inland lake. At Kilmacabra see Lough Drine with Danish entrenchment on hill to the E. The lough is supposed by the peasantry to have the miraculous property of shifting all its islands on some holy day every year. At Miros are some curious rocks and caverns; see also Mount Gabriel with most extensive prospect, with a deep lough on its summit.
Youghall, about 24 m. E. of Cork,—is noticeable as the spot where the first potatoe was planted in Ireland. Some good scenery around it; and cheerful in the summer as a watering place. See the Ch. a large Gothic structure with six Gothic arches on each side of the nave; partly suffered to decay, particularly the chancel, where there is a very fine east window of the purest Gothic. Here are several ancient monuments. The mineralogist will be gratified by visiting Clay Castle, about 1 m. S.W. from the town; a bold hill, on the strata of loose sandy clay, pieces of which falling upon the beach become a hard firm grit like freestone.
