FERMENTATION A Few Remarks by E. Wilfahrt, an Authority Upon the Subject

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The term fermentation, as applied to baking, we find first described as a form of spontaneous decay, changing the carbohydrates contained in the dough into alcohol and dioxide gas. Such fermentation is termed alcoholic. Other varieties of fermentation also exist during the process of doughing, and are termed lactic, acetous, viscous and putrefactive.

The process of fermentation which has for its object the manufacture of bread must be of alcoholic nature, containing ½ of 1 per cent. acidity in proportions of 95 per cent. lactic and 5 per cent. acetic. The presence of lactic fermentation softens the gluten, while the presence of acetic fermentation causes a larger expansion of the loaf.

Of course, the larger the percentage of the acetic acid in proportion to the lactic acid, the larger would be the ultimate expansion of the finished loaf; that is, if no excessive percentage of acidity is produced. While the presence of acetic acid in minute proportions acts favorably on the expansion of the loaf, an excess of it must result in sour bread. Consequently, the acids contained in their proper proportions in the fermented dough exert a beneficial influence, both as to the flavor of the bread and assistance in fermentation.

Viscous fermentation produces the much dreaded disease “rope in bread,” and is really the beginning of putrefaction of the raw material employed. This trouble is caused by over-acidity in the dough and heat, or by uncleanliness, which generates over-acidity, or excess growth of microbes, and this causes rope in bread.

Putrefaction means decomposition of materials employed. It is a non-alcoholic ferment, and the material undergoing putrefaction always gives out a decidedly bad odor.

In making a dough the first point to consider, after proper ingredients have been selected, is the temperature of the dough and of the proving room. The utmost care should be exercised to keep the dough room at a uniform temperature. The best temperature for dough is 78 degrees F., after mixing, and the temperature of the shop should be about 82 degrees F.

To keep a dough thus made at the proper temperature during the period of fermentation it is necessary to use salt in the proper proportions to the amount of sugar and shortening added in the mixing of the dough. So that the rising acidity during the process of fermentation may be properly neutralized salt is used, first to govern the fermentation, and secondly, to give the bread the necessary flavor. Although it is generally conceded that salt retards fermentation, nevertheless this action is most powerful on non-alcoholic ferments. Consequently, salt, if used in the proper proportion, really acts as a stimulant to produce a healthy dough, or perfect loaf of bread.

My experience has taught me that for plain white bread three ounces of salt to a gallon of water is the proper amount. For each two ounces of sugar and shortening added to a gallon of water, one-quarter ounce of salt should be correspondingly added, until four ounces of salt are used to the gallon.

Such a dough, therefore, will call for one-half pound each of sugar and shortening and four ounces of salt to each gallon of water. This would make a very rich home-made dough with a large yield, on account of its moisture retaining power.

In adding more than one-half pound each of sugar and shortening to the gallon, as in making rolls and sweet doughs, the amount of salt must be reduced one-quarter of an ounce for each additional two ounces of sugar, and shortening added to the gallon, until two ounces of salt is all that remains to be used to the gallon of water. From this limit only one-eighth of an ounce is deducted for each additional two ounces of sugar and shortening added.

The amount of flour added to the gallon of liquid depends upon the class of bread to be made. It averages 12½ to 15 pounds to the gallon.

Malt extract is one of the best acquisitions in the manufacture of bread, as it is very useful in increasing the keeping qualities of the product, and gives a better flavor to the loaf, such as is produced by the use of milk.

The shortening should be added after the dough is thoroughly incorporated with the balance of ingredients, as if added first, it will not give the desired results and the flour will not absorb the same quantity of water, as if the shortening were added last.

The temperature of the bakeshop during the operation of molding is another important feature. The dough room should be kept at as uniform a temperature as possible, as the dough is very susceptible to changes of temperature.

In some bakeries the water used is hard, while in other shops soft water is used. The character of the water used has as much to do with the fermentation as the temperature of the water. The softer the water the quicker the fermentation. Generally speaking, dough should never be made without the use of a thermometer to insure uniformity day after day. All ingredients used should be carefully weighed, then the so-called ill-luck in the shop will be a thing of rare occurrence.

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