Out-of-Doors in the Holy Land: Impressions of Travel in Body and Spirit

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OUT-OF-DOORS

IN THE

HOLY LAND

Front Cover.

BOOKS BY HENRY VAN DYKE Published by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
The Ruling Passion. Illustrated in color.	$1.50
The Blue Flower. Illustrated in color.	$1.50
Outdoors in the Holy Land. Illustrated in color	net $1.50
Days Off. Illustrated in color.	$1.50
Little Rivers. Illustrated in color.	$1.50
Fisherman's Luck. Illustrated in color.	$1.50
The Builders, and Other Poems.	$1.50
Music, and Other Poems.	net $1.50
The Toiling of Felix, and Other Poems.	$1.50

The Gate of David, Jerusalem. The Gate of David, Jerusalem.

OUT-OF-DOORS

IN

THE HOLY LAND

IMPRESSIONS OF TRAVEL
IN BODY AND SPIRIT

BY

HENRY VAN DYKE

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
MDCCCCVIII

To

HOWARD CROSBY BUTLER

MASTER OF MERWICK

PROFESSOR OF ART AND ARCHÆOLOGY

WHO WAS A FRIEND TO THIS JOURNEY

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED

BY HIS FRIEND

THE AUTHOR

PREFACE

For a long time, in the hopefulness and confidence of youth, I dreamed of going to Palestine. But that dream was denied, for want of money and leisure.

Then, for a long time, in the hardening strain of early manhood, I was afraid to go to Palestine, lest the journey should prove a disenchantment, and some of my religious beliefs be rudely shaken, perhaps destroyed. But that fear was removed by a little voyage to the gates of death, where it was made clear to me that no belief is worth keeping unless it can bear the touch of reality.

In that year of pain and sorrow, through a full surrender to the Divine Will, the hopefulness and confidence of youth came back to me. Since then it has been possible once more to wake in the morning with the feeling that the day might bring something new and wonderful and welcome, and to travel into the future with a whole and happy heart.

This is what I call growing younger; though the years increase, yet the burden of them is lessened, and the fear that life will some day lead into an empty prison-house has been cast out by the incoming of the Perfect Love.

So it came to pass that when a friend offered me, at last, the opportunity of going to Palestine if I would give him my impressions of travel for his magazine, I was glad to go. Partly because there was a piece of work,—a drama whose scene lies in Damascus and among the mountains of Samaria,—that I wanted to finish there; partly because of the expectancy that on such a journey any of the days might indeed bring something new and wonderful and welcome; but most of all because I greatly desired to live for a little while in the country of Jesus, hoping to learn more of the meaning of His life in the land where it was spent, and lost, and forever saved.

Here, then, you have the history of this little book, reader: and if it pleases you to look further into its pages, you can see for yourself how far my dreams and hopes were realised.

It is the record of a long journey in the spirit and a short voyage in the body. If you find here impressions that are lighter, mingled with those that are deeper, that is because life itself is really woven of such contrasted threads. Even on a pilgrimage small adventures happen. Of the elders of Israel on Sinai it is written, "They saw God and did eat and drink"; and the Apostle Paul was not too much engrossed with his mission to send for the cloak and books and parchments that he left behind at Troas.

If what you read here makes you wish to go to the Holy Land, I shall be glad; and if you go in the right way, you surely will not be disappointed.

But there are two things in the book which I would not have you miss.

The first is the new conviction,—new at least to me,—that Christianity is an out-of-doors religion. From the birth in the grotto at Bethlehem (where Joseph and Mary took refuge because there was no room for them in the inn) to the crowning death on the hill of Calvary outside the city wall, all of its important events took place out-of-doors. Except the discourse in the upper chamber at Jerusalem, all of its great words, from the sermon on the mount to the last commission to the disciples, were spoken in the open air. How shall we understand it unless we carry it under the free sky and interpret it in the companionship of nature?

The second thing that I would have you find here is the deepened sense that Jesus Himself is the great, the imperishable miracle. His words are spirit and life. His character is the revelation of the Perfect Love. This was the something new and wonderful and welcome that came to me in Palestine: a simpler, clearer, surer view of the human life of God.

HENRY VAN DYKE.

Avalon,
June 10, 1908.

I.	Travellers' Joy	1
II.	Going up to Jerusalem	23
III.	The Gates of Zion	45
IV.	Mizpah and the Mount of Olives	67
V.	An Excursion to Bethlehem and Hebron	83
VI.	The Temple and the Sepulchre	105
VII.	Jericho and Jordan	125
VIII.	A Journey to Jerash	151
IX.	The Mountains of Samaria	191
X.	Galilee and the Lake	217
XI.	The Springs of Jordan	259
XII.	The Road to Damascus	291

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Gate of David, Jerusalem	Frontispiece
Jaffa The port where King Solomon landed his cedar beams from Lebanon for the building of the Temple	Facing page 14
The Tall Tower of the Forty Martyrs at Ramleh	28
Street in Jerusalem	60
A Street in Bethlehem	86
The Market-place, Bethlehem	90
Great Monastery of St. George	136
Ruins of Jerash, Looking West Propyloeum and Temple terrace	184
The Virgin's Fountain, Nazareth	232
The Approach to BÂniyÂs	276
Bridge Over the River LÎtÂnÎ	282
A Small Bazaar in Damascus	316

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OUT-OF-DOORS IN THE HOLY LAND