PART I.

CHAPTER I.--Page 1

Travelling in Persia

Sleep on Horseback

Teheran

Reception at the Turkish Embassy

Turkey and Persia

Ferrukh Khan's Visit to Europe

War between Dost Mohammed Khan and Sultan Ahmed Khan

Excursion to Shiraz

CHAPTER II. Page 9

Return to Teheran

Relief of Sunnites, Dervishes, and Hadjis at the Turkish Embassy

Author becomes acquainted with a Karavan of Tartar Hadjis returning from Mecca

The different Routes

The Author determines to join the Hadjis

Hadji Bilal

Introduction of Author to his future Travelling Companions

Route through the Yomuts and the Great Desert decided upon

CHAPTER III.--Page 20

Departure from Teheran in North-easterly Direction

The Component Members of Karavan described

Ill-feeling of Shiites towards the Sunnite Hadjis

Mazendran

Zirab

Heften

Tigers and Jackals

Sari

Karatepe

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CHAPTER IV.--Page 30

Karatepe

Author entertained by an Afghan, Nur-Ullah

Suspicions as to his Dervish Character

Hadjis provision themselves for Journey through Desert

Afghan Colony

Nadir Shah

First View of the Caspian

Yacoub the Turkoman Boatman

Love Talisman

Embarkation for Ashourada

Voyage on the Caspian

Russian Part of Ashourada

Russian War Steamers in the Caspian

Turkoman Chief, in the Service of Russia

Apprehension of Discovery on the Author's part

Arrival at GÖmÜshtepe and at the Mouth of the Gorghen.

CHAPTER V.--Page 45

Arrival at GÖmÜshtepe, hospitable Reception of the Hadjis

Khandjan

Ancient Greek Wall

Influence of the Ulemas

First Brick Mosque of the Nomads

Tartar Raids

Persian Slaves

Excursion to the North-east of GÖmÜshtepe

Tartar FiancÉe and Banquet, etc.

Preparation of the Khan of Khiva's Kervanbashi for the Journey through the Desert

Line of Camels

Ilias Beg, the Hirer of Camels

Arrangements with Khulkhan

Turkoman Expedition to steal Horses in Persia

Its Return.

CHAPTER VI.--Page 70

Departure from GÖmÜshtepe

Character of our late Host

Turkoman Mounds or Tombs

Disagreeable Adventure with Wild Boars

Plateau to the North of GÖmÜshtepe

Nomad Habits

Turkoman Hospitality

The last Goat

Persian Slave

Commencement of the Desert

A Turkoman Wife and Slave

Etrek

Persian Slaves

Russian Sailor Slave

Proposed Alliance between Yomuts and Tekke

Rendezvous with the Kervanbashi

Tribe Kem

Adieu to Etrek

Afghan makes Mischief

Description of Karavan.

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CHAPTER VII.--Page 90

Kervanbashi insists that Author should take no Notes

Eid Mehemmed and his Brother's noble Conduct

Guide loses his Way

KÖrentaghi, Ancient Ruins, probably Greek

Little and Great Balkan

Ancient Bed of the Oxus

Vendetta

Sufferings from Thirst.

CHAPTER VIII.--Page 113

Thunder

Gazelles and Wild Asses

Arrival at the Plateau Kaftankir

Ancient Bed of Oxus

Friendly Encampment

Approach of Horsemen

Gazavat

Entry into Khiva

Malicious Charge by Afghan

Interview with Khan

Author required to give Specimen of Turkish Penmanship

Robes of Honour estimated by Human Heads

Horrible Execution of Prisoners

Peculiar Execution of Women

Kungrat

Author's last Benediction of the Khan.

CHAPTER IX.--Page 144

FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.

Departure from Khiva for Bokhara

Ferry across the Oxus

Great Heat

Shurakhan

Market

Singular Dialogue with Kirghis Woman on Nomadic Life

TÜnÜklÜ

Alaman of the Tekke

Karavan alarmed returns to TÜnÜklÜ

Forced to throw itself into the Desert, 'Destroyer of Life'

Thirst

Death of Camels

Death of a Hadji

Stormy Wind

Precarious State of Author

Hospitable Reception amongst Persian Slaves

First Impression of Bokhara the Noble.

CHAPTER X.--Page 167

Bokhara

Reception at the Tekkie, the Chief Nest of Islamism

Rahmet Bi

Bazaars

Baha-ed-din, Great Saint of Turkestan

Spies set upon Author

Fate of recent Travellers in Bokhara

Book Bazaar

The Worm (Rishte)

Water Supply

Late and present Emirs

Harem, Government, Family of Reigning Emir

Slave Depot and Trade

Departure from Bokhara, and Visit to the Tomb of Baha-ed-din.

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CHAPTER XI.--Page 197

Bokhara to Samarcand

Little Desert of ChÖl Melik

Animation of Road owing to War

First View of Samarcand

Haszreti Shah Zinde

Mosque of Timour

Citadel (Ark)

Reception Hall of Timour

KÖktash or Timour's Throne

Singular Footstool

Timour's Sepulchre and that of his Preceptor

Author visits the actual Tomb of Timour in the Souterrain

Folio Koran ascribed to Osman, Mohammed's Secretary

Colleges

Ancient Observatory

Greek Armenian Library not, as pretended, carried off by Timour

Architecture of Public Buildings not Chinese but Persian

Modern Samarcand

Its Population

Dehbid

Author decides to return

Arrival of Emir

Author's Interview with him

Parting from the Hadjis, and Departure from Samarcand.

CHAPTER XII.--Page 222

Samarcand to Karshi through Desert

Nomads

Karshi, the Ancient Nakhseb

Trade and Manufacture

Kerki

Oxus

Author charged with being runaway Slave

Ersari Turkomans

Mezari Sherif

Belkh

Author joins Karavan from Bokhara

Slavery

Zeid

Andkhuy

Yeketut

Khairabad

Maymene

Akkale.

CHAPTER XIII.--Page 244

Maymene

Its Political Position and Importance

Reigning Prince

Rivalry of Bokhara and Kabul

Dost Mohammed Khan

Ishan Eyub and Mollah Khalmurad

Khanat and Fortress of Maymene

Escaped Russian Offenders

Murgab River and Bala Murgab

Djemshidi and Afghan

Ruinous Taxes on Merchandise

KalÈ No

Hezare

Afghan Exactions and Maladministration.

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CHAPTER XIV.--Page 269
HERAT.

Herat

Its Ruinous State

Bazaar

Author's Destitute Condition

The Serdar Mehemmed Yakoub Khan

Parade of Afghan Troops

Interview with Serdar

Conduct of Afghans on storming Herat

Nazir Naim the Vizir

Embarrassed State of Revenue

Major Todd

Mosalla, and Tomb of Sultan Husein Mirza

Tomb of Khodja Abdullah Ansari, and of Dost Mohammed Khan.

CHAPTER XV.--Page 286
FROM HERAT TO LONDON.

Author joins Karavan for Meshed

Kuhsun, last Afghan Town

False Alarm from Wild Asses

Debatable Ground between Afghan and Persian Territory

Bifurcation of Route

Yusuf Khan Hezareh

Ferimon

Colonel Dolmage

Prince Sultan Murad Mirza

Author avows who he is to the Serdar of Herat

Shahrud

Teheran, and Welcome there by the Turkish Charge d' Affaires, Ismael Efendi

Kind Reception by Mr. Alison and the English Embassy

Interview with the Shah

The Kavvan ud Dowlet and the Defeat at Merv

Return by Trebisond and Constantinople to Pesth

Author leaves the Khiva Mollah behind him at Pesth and proceeds to London

His Welcome in the last-named City.

PART II.

CHAPTER XVI.--Page 301
THE TURKOMANS.

Boundaries and Division of Tribes

Neither Rulers nor Subjects

Deb

Islam

Change introduced by latter only external

Influence of Mollahs

Construction of Nomad Tents

Alaman, how conducted

Persian Cowardice

Turkoman Poets

Troubadours

Simple Marriage Ceremonies

Horses

Mounds, how and when formed

Mourning for Dead

Turkoman Descent

General Points connected with the History of the Turkomans

Their present Political and Geographical Importance.

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CHAPTER XVII.--Page 329
THE CITY OF KHIVA.

Khiva, the Capital

Principal Divisions, Gates, and Quarters of the City

Bazaars

Mosques

Medresse or Colleges; how founded, organised, and endowed

Police

Khan and his Government

Taxes

Tribunals

Khanat

Canals

Political Divisions

Produce

Manufactures and Trade

Particular Routes

Khanat, how peopled

Ozbegs

Turkomans

Karakalpak

Kasak (Kirghis)

Sart

Persians

History of Khiva in Fifteenth Century

Khans and their Genealogy.

CHAPTER XVIII.--Page 362
THE CITY OF BOKHARA.

City of Bokhara, its Gates, Quarters, Mosques, Colleges

One founded by Czarina Catherine

Founded as Seminaries not of Learning but Fanaticism

Bazaars

Police System severer than elsewhere in Asia

The Khanat of Bokhara

Inhabitants: Ozbegs, Tadjiks, Kirghis, Arabs, Mervi, Persians, Hindoos, Jews

Government

Different Officials

Political Divisions

Army

Summary of the History of Bokhara.

CHAPTER XIX.--Page 380
KHANAT OF KHOKAND.

Inhabitants

Division

Khokand Tashkend

Khodjend

Morgolan Endidjan

Hazreti Turkestana

Oosh

Political Position

Recent Wars.

CHAPTER XX.--Page 397
CHINESE TARTARY.

Approach from West

Administration

Inhabitants--Cities.

CHAPTER XXI.--Page 407

Communication of Central Asia with Russia, Persia, and India

Routes in the three Khanats and Chinese Tartary.

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CHAPTER XXII.--Page 419
GENERAL VIEW OF AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, AND TRADE.

Agriculture

Different kinds of Horses

Sheep

Camels

Asses

Manufactures, Principal Seats of Trade

Commercial Ascendancy of Russia in Central Asia.

CHAPTER XXIII.--Page 430
INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL POLITICAL RELATIONS OF CENTRAL ASIA.

Internal Relations between Bokhara, Khiva, and Khokand

External Relations with Turkey, Persia, China, and Russia.

CHAPTER XXIV.--Page 439
THE RIVALRY OF THE RUSSIANS AND ENGLISH IN CENTRAL ASIA.

Attitude of Russia and England towards Central Asia

Progress of Russia on the Jaxartes.

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Dervishes at Bokhara	Frontispiece
Reception by Turkoman Chief on the Caspian Shore	45
Intruding upon the Haunts of the Wild Boar	72
Wild Man in the Desert	108
Receiving Payment for Human Heads--Khiva	140
The Ferry across the Oxus	149
Tebbad--Sand Storm in the Desert	161
Entry of the Emir into Samarcand	216
'I swear you are an Englishman!'	278
Tent in Central Asia	316
Tartar Horse Race--Pursuit of a Bride (Kokburi)	323
Market on Horseback--Amongst the Özbegs	345
Map of Central Asia, showing Author's Route	At the end

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TRAVELS IN CENTRAL ASIA