CONTENTS.

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Prefatory Note xiii
Introductory Chapter xv
I.
EARLY YEARS.
Tutor and Waiter—Vacation Rambles—Literary Studies—Linguistic Studies 1
II.
THE FIRST JOURNEY.
At Galacz—A Storm at Sea—Penniless in Pera—A Teacher of Languages—Teaching a Turk—Hussein Daim Pasha—Ahmed Effendi 15
III.
LIFE IN STAMBUL.
My First Book—Seeking for an Ancient Dialect—My Friends' Opinion of my Journey—"Reshid Effendi" 34
IV.
FROM TREBIZOND TO ERZERUM.
At Trebizond—On the road to Erzerum 42
V.
FROM ERZERUM TO THE PERSIAN FRONTIER.
The Frontier of Kurdistan—Attacked by Robbers—Tales of Robbers—An Old Friend 47
VI.
FROM THE PERSIAN BORDER TO TEBRIZ.
On Persian Soil—The Bazaar at Khoy—The Seids 56
VII.
IN TEBRIZ
Study of the Shi-ite Sect—Holy Water—An Old Acquaintance—A Royal Investiture—An Overworked Embassy 64
VIII.
IN ZENDJAN.
A Persian Medico—A Persian Miracle-Play—Tragedy appreciated 77
IX.
FROM KAZVIN TO TEHERAN.
The Atoning Procession 85
X.
IN TEHERAN.
Talking to Turks of Home—Social Contrasts in Asia 89
XI.
THE SALT DESERT OF DESHTI-KUVIR.
Choosing a Companion—Morning Prayer—The Desert of Devils—The Caravan of the Dead 94
XII.
KUM AND KASHAN.
The City of Virgins—The Tomb of Fatima—Kashan—Murder in the Desert 104
XIII.
FROM ISFAHAN TO THE SUPPOSED TOMB OF CYRUS.
The Pope of Isfahan—Movable Towers—Tales for Travellers—Gazelles in the Desert—Fars 113
XIV.
PERSEPOLIS.
Solomon's Throne—A Morning Reverie—Vandalism in Persia—Embracing the Pilgrims 125
XV.
SHIRAZ.
Fertility of Shiraz—A Linguist's Joke—Persian Cruelty—Saadi—Europeans Feasting in Persia—An Earthquake in Shiraz—Desolation 136
XVI.
PREPARATIONS FOR MY JOURNEY TO CENTRAL ASIA.
Chivalrous Dervishes—Scruples—Journey with Tartars—Committed to His Purpose 150
XVII.
FROM TEHERAN TO THE LAND OF THE TURKOMANS.
Description of the Caravan—Incognito Unveiled—Thieving Jackals—Unrequited Love—The Slave Trade 161
XVIII.
GOMUSHTEPE.
Receiving the Pilgrims—How to become a Dervish—Learning in the Wilds—Slavery—A Betrothal Feast—A Robber Chief 174
XIX.
FROM GOMUSHTEPE TO THE BORDER OF THE DESERT.
Threatened by the Wild Boar—An Anxious Moment 187
XX.
IN THE DESERT.
Suspicion Aroused—A Pious Brother—Karendag Mountains—Little Balkan Mountain—Charm of the Desert—Thirst!—Hot Weather 192
XXI.
IN KHIVA.
An Army of Asses—Rest and Dread—Making a Friend—The Khan—A Lion in Khiva—Fierce Barbarism 213
XXII.
FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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