| PAGE |
Prefatory Note | xiii |
Introductory Chapter | xv |
I. |
EARLY YEARS. |
Tutor and Waiter—Vacation Rambles—Literary Studies—Linguistic Studies | 1 |
II. |
THE FIRST JOURNEY. |
At Galacz—A Storm at Sea—Penniless in Pera—A Teacher of Languages—Teaching a Turk—Hussein Daim Pasha—Ahmed Effendi | 15 |
III. |
LIFE IN STAMBUL. |
My First Book—Seeking for an Ancient Dialect—My Friends' Opinion of my Journey—"Reshid Effendi" | 34 |
IV. |
FROM TREBIZOND TO ERZERUM. |
At Trebizond—On the road to Erzerum | 42 |
V. |
FROM ERZERUM TO THE PERSIAN FRONTIER. |
The Frontier of Kurdistan—Attacked by Robbers—Tales of Robbers—An Old Friend | 47 |
VI. |
FROM THE PERSIAN BORDER TO TEBRIZ. |
On Persian Soil—The Bazaar at Khoy—The Seids | 56 |
VII. |
IN TEBRIZ |
Study of the Shi-ite Sect—Holy Water—An Old Acquaintance—A Royal Investiture—An Overworked Embassy | 64 |
VIII. |
IN ZENDJAN. |
A Persian Medico—A Persian Miracle-Play—Tragedy appreciated | 77 |
IX. |
FROM KAZVIN TO TEHERAN. |
The Atoning Procession | 85 |
X. |
IN TEHERAN. |
Talking to Turks of Home—Social Contrasts in Asia | 89 |
XI. |
THE SALT DESERT OF DESHTI-KUVIR. |
Choosing a Companion—Morning Prayer—The Desert of Devils—The Caravan of the Dead | 94 |
XII. |
KUM AND KASHAN. |
The City of Virgins—The Tomb of Fatima—Kashan—Murder in the Desert | 104 |
XIII. |
FROM ISFAHAN TO THE SUPPOSED TOMB OF CYRUS. |
The Pope of Isfahan—Movable Towers—Tales for Travellers—Gazelles in the Desert—Fars | 113 |
XIV. |
PERSEPOLIS. |
Solomon's Throne—A Morning Reverie—Vandalism in Persia—Embracing the Pilgrims | 125 |
XV. |
SHIRAZ. |
Fertility of Shiraz—A Linguist's Joke—Persian Cruelty—Saadi—Europeans Feasting in Persia—An Earthquake in Shiraz—Desolation | 136 |
XVI. |
PREPARATIONS FOR MY JOURNEY TO CENTRAL ASIA. |
Chivalrous Dervishes—Scruples—Journey with Tartars—Committed to His Purpose | 150 |
XVII. |
FROM TEHERAN TO THE LAND OF THE TURKOMANS. |
Description of the Caravan—Incognito Unveiled—Thieving Jackals—Unrequited Love—The Slave Trade | 161 |
XVIII. |
GOMUSHTEPE. |
Receiving the Pilgrims—How to become a Dervish—Learning in the Wilds—Slavery—A Betrothal Feast—A Robber Chief | 174 |
XIX. |
FROM GOMUSHTEPE TO THE BORDER OF THE DESERT. |
Threatened by the Wild Boar—An Anxious Moment | 187 |
XX. |
IN THE DESERT. |
Suspicion Aroused—A Pious Brother—Karendag Mountains—Little Balkan Mountain—Charm of the Desert—Thirst!—Hot Weather | 192 |
XXI. |
IN KHIVA. |
An Army of Asses—Rest and Dread—Making a Friend—The Khan—A Lion in Khiva—Fierce Barbarism | 213 |
XXII. |
FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA. |