Four-fold—about 18 ounces of wool yarn, or 16 ounces of silky wool.

Two-fold—8 to 9 ounces.

Rake.

For four-fold yarn use No. 1 rake shown in Fig. 1.

For two-fold yarn use No. 2 rake shown in Fig. 1.

Stitches.

For the body of the jacket—single stitch as described in Chapter 2.

For cuffs and collar—double stitch.

DIRECTIONS.

Read carefully the instructions given in Chapters 2 and 4.

To Knit the Cuffs, Sleeves and Body of the Jacket.

1. Knit the cuff directly in the center of the rake so as to allow room for adding the same number of stitches on either end in shaping the sleeve. (See Fig. 35.)

2. Cast stitches on 44 nails, 22 in each row. (See Chapter 2.)

3. Knit 2½ inches of double stitch (Chapter 2) to make the cuff, A, B, D, C, Fig. 35.

4. To shape the sleeve, C, D, E, F, when using four-fold yarn, increase the number of stitches by adding one more nail at the end of every row of winding until all the nails of the rake are in use. Use single stitch. (See Chapter 2.)

5. For a looser sleeve, or for two-fold yarn, add two nails at a time for the first 6 inches, and then one nail at a time for the rest of the sleeve. (See dotted line in Fig. 35.)

6. Knit 33 inches—single stitch.

7. Cast off stitches as described in section 3 of Chapter 4, to shape the second sleeve. Where you added one nail at a time in shaping the first sleeve, cast off one nail at a time in shaping the second sleeve. If you added two nails, cast stitches off two nails at a time, until only 44 nails, 22 in each row, are left.

8. Knit 2½ inches double stitch to make the second cuff.

9. Cast the knitting from the rake as described in section 5 of Chapter 4.

10. Take up loose stitches at the beginning of the first cuff as described in section 6 of Chapter 4, and sew up the seams of the sleeves.

To Knit Collar No. 1. (Fig. 36.)

1. Cast stitches on twelve nails, six in each row, and knit 7 inches, double stitch.

2. With the next winding of yarn add 24 nails, all at one time, to the right of the knitting, to form the wide part of the collar (H-I). Eighteen nails in each row are now being used.

3. Continue knitting for 18 inches with double stitch.

4. Cast stitches off 24 nails added above, leaving twelve nails, six in each row.

5. Continue knitting for 7 inches—double stitch.

6. Cast knitting from the rake.

7. Crochet around the outer edge of the collar, using single crochet stitch.

8. Sew the collar to the body of the jacket as indicated in the drawing. (See directions in section 7, Chapter 4.)

9. Fold collar back along the dotted line.

10. Make a cord and tassels and fasten under the collar. A very good cord can be knitted on four nails of the rake, two in each row, using single stitch, or a “spool knitter” can be made from a large empty spool with four 1-inch No. 16 wire brads driven in around the opening at one end. The winding of a spool knitter is similar to the winding of the round cap rake, Fig. 3. (See Chapter 3.)

To Knit Collar No. 2. (Fig. 37.)

1. Cast stitches on 40 nails, twenty in each row.

2. Knit double stitch for 7 inches.

3. Cast stitches off 24 nails at one end of knitting to produce M N, Fig. 37.

4. On the next winding add these 24 nails again.

5. Knit 18 inches—double stitch.

6. Cast off the same 24 nails again, thus producing O P, Fig. 37.

7. On the next winding add these 24 nails again.

8. Knit 7 inches—double stitch.

9. Cast knitting from the rake.

10. Crochet once around the outer edge of the collar with a single crochet stitch.

11. After the collar is sewed to the body of the jacket it is folded back as indicated by the dotted line in the drawing, and fastened with crochet covered buttons and loops. (See Figs. 37 and 38.)