The following three styles of men’s sweaters (Figs. 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51) are described in this chapter:

1. Buttoned down the front, with sleeves, collar and pockets.

2. Slipover, with sleeves, collar and pockets.

3. Slipover, sleeveless and without collar. (See Boy’s Slipover Sweater, Chapter 8.)

SWEATER No. 1.

This man’s sweater is buttoned down the front and is made with sleeves, a collar and pockets.

Quantity of Yarn Required.

32 ounces of four-fold yarn.

If heavy sweater yarn is used it will require 42 ounces, and the sweater must be knitted on rake No. 2. (Fig. 1.)

Rake.

For four-fold yarn use rake No. 4 (5/16 inch—¹/16 inch) Fig. 1.

Stitches.

Single and triple cross-stitch. (See Chapter 2.)

DIRECTIONS.

Read carefully the general directions given in Chapter 4, and study Figs. 47, 48, 49, 50 and 51. Consult them as you follow the directions given here. The back and the front of the sweater are knitted in one piece.

To Knit the Back of the Sweater.

Compare Fig. 47 with Fig. 39. It will be seen at once that there is a great similarity.

1. Cast stitches on 144 nails, 72 in each row.

2. Knit 3 inches of triple cross-stitch.

3. Change to single stitch as described in section 2 of Chapter 4, and knit 25½ to 28½ inches, depending on the desired length AB of the sweater. (See Fig. 47.)

4. Cast stitches from 28 nails, fourteen in each row, in the center of the knitting to make the back of the neck (C). The knitting is now in two parts and two balls of yarn must be used.

To Knit the Front of the Sweater.

1. Knit the shoulder pieces straight for 3 inches, Fig. 48.

2. To shape the V neck (E-F) on every sixth row when the yarn is wound on the nails toward the center, add one nail on each shoulder piece until the two parts of the knitting meet in the center.

3. As the sweater is to be buttoned down the front, continue to use two balls of yarn, winding each from the side of the sweater to the center only and back to the side.

4. Knit until the fronts measure the same as the back, remembering to make the last 3 inches with triple cross-stitch to correspond to the band at the bottom of the back. Section 1 of Chapter 4 describes how to change from single to triple cross-stitch.

5. Cast knitting from the rake.

6. Take up the loose stitches at the lower edge of the back as described in section 6 of Chapter 4.

7. Sew up the side seams as described in section 7 of Chapter 4. Make opening GH for sleeves about 7½ to 9 inches.

To Knit the Sleeves.

1. Cast stitches on about 100 nails, 50 in each row, to produce the straight line AB, Fig. 49.

Note:—The sleeve at the top should measure the same as the armhole.

2. To shape the sleeve, cast stitch from one nail at a time every six rows of knitting, first on one side of the sleeve and then on the other, as indicated on the drawing. Then every five rows, every four rows, every three rows, every two rows, until the sleeve is long enough (about 18 to 22 inches) and narrow enough at the cuff (about 8 inches). On the very last row at this point three nails should be dropped altogether on each side of the sleeve. Watch carefully the shaping of the sleeve as you narrow so as not to get it too tight at any point.

3. Change to triple cross-stitch by winding once across the rake and back, to make three threads around each nail before lifting the lower thread over the upper two and off.

4. Knit 3 inches of triple cross-stitch for the cuff.

5. Cast the knitting off the rake.

6. Sew up the seam of the sleeve, and sew the sleeve in the armhole of the sweater so that the seam in the sleeve and the side seam of the sweater come together. (See section 7 of Chapter 4 for directions for sewing.)

7. Make other sleeve to match.

To Make Collar and the Bands for Down the Front.

Two styles of collar are shown by Figs. 50 and 51.

Double Collar and Bands.

1. Cast stitches on 32 nails, sixteen in each row, to make AB, Fig. 50.

2. Knit 3 inches of triple cross-stitch.

3. Change to single stitch.4. Measure the edge of one of the front pieces of the sweater to find out how long the bands (BC) must be. Decide how far apart the buttonholes are to come. To make the buttonholes, cast off stitches on nails, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,—22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and add them again on the next winding.

5. When the band is long enough, increase the width of the knitting to make the collar by adding one nail at each end on every sixth or seventh row of knitting until the distance C D, Fig. 50, measures the same as the side E F of the V neck of the sweater front shown in Fig. 48.6. Knit straight for about 10 inches, which is usually the distance around the neck of the sweater, measured from point E in Fig. 48 on one side, to the same point on the other.

7. Cast stitch off one nail at each end on every sixth or seventh row of knitting, reversing what you did in section 5 above, until there are again only 32 nails in use.

8. Knit the second band, omitting the buttonholes. Make the last 3 inches with triple cross-stitch.

9. Cast knitting from the rake.

10. Take up the loose stitches at the beginning of the first band.

11. Double the collar and bands along the dotted line, being sure that the two parts of the buttonholes come together. Sew to the body of the sweater as indicated in the diagram, finding the exact center of the collar and of the sweater, and sewing from the center to the fronts.

12. Crochet the buttonholes, or finish them with a buttonhole stitch, using a single strand of yarn.

Single Collar and Bands.

1. Knit band on sixteen nails, eight in each row. Cast stitches off nails 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and add them again on the next winding, to make the buttonholes. Knit the first 3 inches with triple cross-stitch, and then change to single stitch.2. When the band is long enough, as described in section 4, for the double collar, increase the width of the knitting to form the collar by adding one nail on the right only every five or six rows, until the collar is wide enough.

3. Knit the collar straight for about 10 inches, as described in section 6, for the double collar.

To be sure of your measurements, lay the collar and band along the edge to which it is to be sewed, noting that with this single collar and bands, it is the straight edge which comes next to the body of the sweater.

4. Cast stitches off the nails added above, one nail every five or six rows, reversing what you did in section 2, until only sixteen nails remain in use.

5. Knit the second band, omitting the buttonholes. Knit the last 3 inches with triple cross-stitch.

6. Cast knitting from the rake.

7. Take up the loose stitches at the beginning of the first band.

8. Sew the long, straight edge of bands and collar to the body of the sweater, and fold the collar back along the dotted line.

Pockets.

1. For a pocket 5 inches wide, cast on about 70 stitches, 35 nails in each row.

2. Knit 3½ inches single stitch.

3. Knit 1 inch triple cross-stitch.

4. Cast knitting from the rake.

5. Sew pockets to the front of the sweater just above the band of triple cross-stitch.

SWEATER NO. 2.

This sweater is of the slipover style, with sleeves and a collar.

Follow the foregoing directions for sweater No. 1, with the following changes:

1. When the two parts of the front have come together in the center, after shaping the V neck, drop one ball of yarn when winding brings it to the armhole. Continue knitting the full width of the front with the other ball.

2. To make a double collar, omit the bands and cast on eight stitches, four in each row, and knit as directed for the double collar, ending with eight nails. Cast knitting from the rake.

To make a single collar, cast stitches on only four nails and proceed as for the single collar in Style No. 2, ending with four nails. Cast knitting from the rake.

Crochet around the outer edge of all single collars, using a single stitch.

SWEATER NO. 3.

This sleeveless slipover sweater is made just like the boy’s slipover sweater described in Chapter 8, but the measurements given in Figs. 47 and 48 are used.