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| CHAPTER I. |
| A WINTER VOYAGE ON THE BALTIC |
| Embarking at LÜbeck—Put into a Hut—The Company on Board—Night on the Baltic—Ystad—A Life Lost—Stopped by Ice—A Gale—The Swedish Coast—Arrival at DalarÖ—Conscientious Custom-House Officer | 13 |
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| CHAPTER II. |
| STOCKHOLM—PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH. |
Departure in Sleds—A Meteor—Winter Scenery—Swedish Post- Stations
—View of Stockholm—Arrival—Stockholm Weather—Swedish Ignorance of the North—Funds—Equipment | 21 |
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| CHAPTER III. |
| FIRST EXPERIENCES OF NORTHERN TRAVEL. |
A Swedish Diligence—Aspect of the Country—Upsala—A Fellow- Passenger—The Northern Gods—Scenery—Churches—Peasant's Houses—Arrival at Gefle—FÖrbud Papers—Speaking Swedish
—Daylight at Gefle—A Cold Italian—Experience of Skjuts and FÖrbud—We reach Snow—Night Travel—An Arabic Landlord—A Midnight Chase—Quarters at Bro—The Second Day—We reach Sundsvall | 27 |
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| CHAPTER IV. |
| A SLEIGH RIDE THROUGH NORRLAND. |
| Sundsvall and the Norrlanders—Purchase Sleighs—Start again— Driving on the Ice—Breakfast at FjÄl—Twilight Hymn—Angermannland —A Bleak Day—Scenery of Norrland—Postillions—Increase of Cold —Dark Travel—The Norrland People—The Country and its Products —Northern Thanks—UmeÅ—The Inn at Innertafle | 39 |
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| CHAPTER V. |
| PROGRESS NORTHWARD—A STORM. |
| Christmas Temperature—First Experience of intense Cold—Phenomena thereof—Arctic Travel—Splendour of the Scenery—The Northern Nature—Gross Appetites—My Nose and the Mercury Frozen—Dreary Travel—SkellefteÅ and its Temple—A Winter Storm—The Landlady at Abyn—Ploughing out—Travelling in a Tempest—Reach PiteÅ. | 50 |
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| CHAPTER VI. |
| JOURNEY FROM PITEÅ TO HAPARANDA. |
| Torment—Under the Aurora Borealis—A Dismal Night—Around the Bothnian Gulf—Forest Scenery—MÅnsbyn—The Suspicious Iron-Master —Brother Horton and the Cold—A Trial of Languages—Another Storm—New Year's Day—Entrance into Finland—The Finns—Haparanda | 62 |
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| CHAPTER VII. |
| CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. |
| Medical Treatment—The Kind Fredrika—Morals in the North—Our Quarters at Haparanda—Vain Questions—Start for Lapland—Arctic Daylight—Campbell's TorneÅ—A Finnish Inn—Colours of the Arctic Sky—Approach to Avasaxa—Crossing the Arctic Circle—An Afternoon Sunset—Reception at Juoxengi | 72 |
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| CHAPTER VIII. |
| ADVENTURES AMONG THE FINNS. |
| Journey up the TorneÅ—Wonders of the Winter Woods—Lapps and Reindeer—My Finnish Vocabulary—A Night Journey—Reception at Kengis—Continue the Journey—Finnish Sleds—A Hard Day—The Inn at Jokijalka—Its Inmates—Life in a Finnish Hut—An Arctic Picture—A Frozen Country—Kihlangi—A Polar Night—Parkajoki—We reach Muoniovara. | 83 |
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| CHAPTER IX. |
| LIFE IN LAPLAND. |
| Reception at Muoniovara—Mr. Wolley—Our Lapland Home—A Finnish Bath—Send for Reindeer—A Finnish House—Stables—The Reindeer Pulk—My first Attempt at driving Reindeer—Failure and Success —Muonioniska—View from the Hill—Fears of an old Finn—The Discovery of America—A Lapp Witch—Reindeer Accident | 98 |
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| CHAPTER X. |
| A REINDEER JOURNEY ACROSS LAPLAND. |
Preparations for the Journey—Departure—A lazy Deer—"Long Isaac"—An Auroral Spectacle—A Night at Palajoki—The Table-Land of Lapland
—Sagacity of the Deer—Driving a wild Reindeer—Polar Poetry—
LippajÄrvi—Picture of a Lapp—The Night—A Phantom Journey—The Track lost—A Lapp Encampment—Two Hours in a Lapp Tent—We start again—Descent into Norway—Heavy Travel—Lapp Hut in Siepe—A Fractious Reindeer—Drive to Kautokeino | 101 |
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| CHAPTER XI. |
| KAUTOKEINO—A DAY WITHOUT A SUN. |
Lapland Etiquette—The Inn—Quarters at the LÄnsman's—Situation of Kautokeino—Climate—Life—Habits of the Population—Approach of Sunrise—Church Service in Lapland—Cold Religion—Noonday without Sunrise—The North and the South—A Vision—Visits of the Lapps—Lars Kaino—A Field for Portrait-painting—Character of the Lapp Race—
Their present Condition—The religious Outbreak at Kautokeino—
Pastor Hvoslef—A Piano in Lapland—The Schools—Visit to a Gamme | 126 |
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| CHAPTER XII. |
| THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA. |
