  BOOK I.—THE COAST. CHAPTER I.—BORDEAUX.—ROY AN...................003 “ II.—LES LANDES.—BAYONNE..............012 “ III.—BIARRITZ.—SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ.....035 BOOK II.—THE VALLEY OF OSSAU. CHAPTER I. —DAX.—OR THEZ.....................057 “ II.—PAU.............................085 “ III.—EAUX-BONNES...................117 “ IV.—LANDSCAPES.....................138 “ V.—EAUX-CHAUDES...................169 “ VI.—THE INHABITANTS.................186 BOOK III.—THE VALLEY OF LUZ. CHAPTER I.—ON THE WAY TO LUZ.................225 “ II.—LUZ..............................250 “ III.—SAINT-SAUVEUR.—BAREGES.........266 “ IV.—CAUTERE..........................290 “ V.—SAINT-SATIN.......................315 “ VI.—GAVARNIE.........................326 “ VII.—THE BERGONZ.—THE PIC DU MIDI...352 “ VIII.—PLANTS AND ANIMALS.............367 BOOK. IV.—BAGNÈRES AND LUCHON. CHAPTER I.—FROM LUZ TO BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE...389 “ II.—BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE..............412 “ III.—THE PEOPLE......................420 “ IV—THE ROAD TO BAGNÈRES-DE-LUCHON....468 “ V—LUCHON.............................485 “ VI.—TOULOUSE.........................509 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE PINES.....................................003 THE RIVER AFTER A STORM.......................004 THE PINES NEAR ROYAN..........................007 THE BROAD RIVER...............................009 BORDEAUX......................................010 TAIL-PIECE....................................011 LES LANDES....................................012 LES LANDES (SECOND VIEW)......................014 TAIL-PIECE....................................016 A STREET IN BAYONNE...........................018 BAYONNE HARBOR................................019 PÉ DE PUYANE..................................022 THE BURNING CASTLE............................025 HEAD-PIECE....................................035 THE PIERCED ROCK..............................036 TAIL-PIECE....................................039 THE VILLA EUGENIE.............................040 CLIFFS NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ.................042 COAST NEAR SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ..................045 TAIL-PIECE....................................046 LOUIS XIV. AND ANNE OF AUSTRIA................047 THE POLITENESS OF TO-DAY......................048 THE POLITENESS OF OTHER DAYS..................049 “JE VOUS LE RENDS.”...........................053 A SPLENDID CREATION...........................054 DAX...........................................057 CASTLE OF ORTHEZ..............................061 FROISSART.....................................062 “THAT STOUT CORNIFIC DOCTOR”........ 342 THE MOUNTAIN SIDE.............................343 THE FRECHE DE ROLAND..........................344 THE AMPHITHEATRE NEAR GAVARNIE................346 “THE THIRTEENTH CASCADE ON THE LEFT”..........347 THE CASCADE AS SEEN FROM THE INN..............349 RECIPROCITY...................................351 THE APPRECIATIVE..............................352 ASCENT OF THE BERGONZ.........................354 THE EAGLES....................................355 MONT PERDU....................................359 AN EARLY INHABITANT...........................362 SCENERY DURING AN ASCENT......................365 “ALLEZ DOUCEMENT; ALLEZ TOUJOURS”.............366 A STIMULATING DREAM...........................367 THE PINES.....................................369 A SHOWER IN A FOREST OF BRUSH-FIRS............373 CONTEMPLATION.................................376 A POOR DANCER.................................377 “THE ISARD DWELLS ABOVE THE BEAR”.............378 AN ARGUMENT...................................379 A HERD OF GOATS...............................381 “THE HAPPIEST ANIMAL IN CREATION”.............383 DISTINGUISHED NATIVES.........................386 IN MOUNT CAMPANA..............................389 DE BÉNAC IN EGYPT.............................390 “THEY TRAVERSED A WALL OF CLOUDS”.............395 “MORNING DAWNED”..............................396 “THE HALL WAS FULL”...........................398 “STRANGE IMAGES ROSE IN HIS BRAIN”............399 BÉNAC A HERMIT................................403 BEYOND LOURDES................................404 CITY OF TORBES................................406 MEPHISTOPHELES................................411 BAGNÈRES DE-BIGORRE...........................412 ONE OF THE FIRST PATRONS......................419 SOCIETY.......................................420 AN OLD CAMPAIGNER.............................422 A YOUNG CAMPAIGNER............................422 A MAN OF PEACE................................422 A MODEL MAN...................................423 IN DANGER.............................:.......424 VARIOUS TOURISTS..............................428 THE LAC D’OO..................................431 TOURISTS COMME IL FAUT........................434 FAMILY TOURISTS...............................435 DINING TOURISTS...............................436 LEARNED TOURISTS..............................438 A MAN OF ESPRIT...............................444 CONNOISSEURS..................................446 BEETHOVEN.....................................447 A SERENADER...................................454 A HISTORIAN...................................456 A PROFESSIONAL CHARACTER......................This, my dear Marcelin, is a trip to the Pyrenees; I have been there, and that is a praiseworthy circumstance; many writers, including some of the longest-winded, have described these scenes without leaving home. And yet I have serious shortcomings to confess, and am deeply humbled thereat. I have not been the first to scale any inaccessible mountain; I have broken neither leg nor arm; I have not been eaten by the bears; I have neither saved any English heiress from being swept away by the Gave, nor yet have I married one; I have not been present at a single duel; my experiences include no tragic encounter with brigands or smugglers. I have walked much, and talked a little, and now I recount the pleasures of my eyes and ears. What sort of a man can he be who comes home from a long absence bringing all his limbs with him, is not the least in the world a hero, and yet does not blush to confess it? In this book I have talked as if with thee. There is a Marcelin whom the public knows, a shrewd critic, a caustic wit, the lover and delineator of every worldly elegance; there is another Marcelin, known to but three or four, a learned and thoughtful man. If there are any good ideas in this work, half of them belong to him; to him, then, I restore them. H. TAINE.
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