MY DEAR FRIEND,

An unexpected opportunity having offered to carry us to Constantinople, we set sail for the Dardanelles on the 25th Oct. having previously sent to desire an express might meet us there, with the Grand Signior's permission to pass the forts, and go up to his capital. A favor, which, through the interest of Sir Robert Ainslie, our Ambassador, the Porte very readily granted.

This permission, however, is a compliment seldom or ever paid to a man of war of any nation, except when she has an Ambassador on board; and it was the more flattering to us, because L'Iris, a French frigate, commanded by the Viscount D'Orleans, which was lying close to us, applied for it in vain at the moment we gained it. To add to the compliment, the Governor of the forts which command the pass, promised to salute us.

Nothing could be more delightful than our voyage through these straits. The country on each side is beautifully picturesque, and the situation in itself highly interesting. The Dardanelles, you recollect, are the ancient Hellespont, and the spots on which the forts stand, are famous for the loves of Hero and Leander. Behind us were the Tomb of Achilles, the Semois and Scamander, the celebrated rivers of Troy, and every point brought an interesting character to our view.

The day was most heavenly; and our ship, elegantly painted, and all her appointments in the highest order, formed in herself a most beautiful object. Every sail was set, and the breeze had just strength enough to enable her to overcome the force of the current. This occasional slowness of her motion, added to the majesty of her appearance, and one might almost have fancied that she herself was conscious of the compliments she was receiving from the mouths of the cannon of Europe and Asia.

The Turks at the Dardanelles always salute with ball, and the nearer they go to the vessel, the greater the compliment. Each fort fired seventeen guns; their cannon are monstrous, and the shot flying en ricochet along the smooth surface of the water across our bows, from Europe and Asia alternately, and throwing up the sand on the opposite shores, while shouts of applause from the admiring multitude, hailed us on our returning their salute, crowned this charming morning.

It was near dusk when we got to Galipoli, where the straits open into the sea of Marmora, and on the 15th of November we arrived here.

The approach to Constantinople by sea is thought superior to that of Naples, or Messina, and of course the finest in the world; we missed seeing it, by entering at night--a loss we hope to compensate on our departure.

Travellers in general express great disappointment when they get into the town; and in comparison of European capitals, the streets are certainly miserable, and the buildings in general but paltry; but as they are much superior to any I have seen in the Turkish dominions, I confess that they have exceeded my expectations.

Some of the Mosques are tolerable edifices, however different from our taste in the ornamental part of architecture. To these Christians are prohibited access; but the Turks, like other people, are not always proof against bribery. I have been shewn several, and among the rest, the celebrated one of St. Sophia, supposed to have been built by Constantine the Great. But in which I was very much disappointed. The dome only is tolerable. It is supported by two tier of columns of verde antique. From this style of architecture, and the value of the marble, one would expect a rich and elegant appearance, but the magnificent effect of the double tier of columns, is lost by the entablature being supported by arches, which reduces the columns to mere piers; and thus, in comparison of other works of the ancients, the design becomes poor and inelegant. The capitals are by no means chaste, and the architecture throughout is very indifferently executed.

The Navy Hospital, though small, would do credit to any nation; and some of the Grand Signior's summer palaces, constructed in the Chinese style, display an elegant neatness which could not be surpassed, even by that ingenious people. But the Seraglio, as far as I was admitted, has nothing to boast of. I have been through most parts of the first court on the inside, which contain the Mint, and some other public offices, and have once or twice been just within the gate of the Seraglio gardens; but to the inner court no common bribe will gain a Christian admittance, except when an Ambassador has an audience of the Sultan, and this happens but once during his residence; for Foreign Ministers transact no business with the Grand Signior in person, and never visit him but on their arrival, to deliver their credentials.

We are lucky enough to be here at such a moment, for the new Venetian Ambassador is to have his audience of introduction in a few days, and has promised to take me in his suite. On this occasion, I shall have the honor of dining with the Reis Effendi, and the other Grand Officers of State, in the interior part of the Seraglio.

I have already seen the Grand Signior several times, for he goes publicly to Mosque every Friday; and I attended the Prussian Envoy when he had his audience of the Caimacan, or acting Grand Vizir, from whom I had the honor of receiving a muslin handkerchief. It is not very fine, being only intended as a mark of amity, for the Turks strictly adhere to the Oriental custom of giving presents, and their government seems to retain much of its primitive institution. Civil and religious law, as in the days of the Patriarchs, form but one code. The Coran is the book, and the Mufti the head of both. Like the practice of earlier ages, also, he who rules the state in time of peace, leads her armies in time of war. Thus the Grand Vizir is at once Prime Minister, as well as Captain-General, and Commander in Chief of the forces. The police of the town resembles the discipline of a camp; the people retire at dusk, patroles are established, and in case of fire, or any other alarm, the Grand Signior himself, and all the Great Officers are immediately abroad. Were the Sovereign to neglect appearing on occasions of this kind, it would be thought as great a reflection on him, as if, as a General, he remained in his tent when his camp was attacked.

Immense as the Ottoman Empire is, the whole number of those troops that, from being constantly embodied, can be called regulars, amount to but about twenty-six thousand foot, and a few thousand horse. Among the former are a corps of Gardeners, (Bostangi) and another of Porters (Capigi) and these are part of the Sultan's body guards. The head gardener (Bostangi Bashaw) is, by virtue of his employment, Governor of all the forts on the Bosphorus, commonly called the Canal of the Black Sea, and the first of the Black Eunuchs, is also by his Office, Governor and Commander in Chief of the Seraglio, or Grand Palace and Citadel of Constantinople.

The canal, including its windings, is about twenty miles in length, and in most parts not more than a mile wide, which defends the capital against an attack by shipping from the Black Sea, whilst the Dardanelles, although an hundred miles distant, protect it against men of war from the Mediterranean. The last of these straits, at the points on which the old castles stand, are only about 1300 yards wide; and although they expand immediately, yet for the course of forty miles a ship can seldom be out of gunshot from one or other side.

A strong north wind blows all summer, which renders it impossible for vessels to force their way up at that season, and the current at all times sets so strong, that even with a fair wind, they must be exposed for several hours to a very hot fire. The castles are close to the water's edge; they have each two tier of guns, many of the lower carry balls of eighteen inches diameter, and when an enemy is in force in the Mediterranean, the whole extent of the Dardanelles is lined with batteries.

The town properly called Constantinople, is a kind of Peninsula, in the form of a triangle, one side of which is washed by the sea of Marmora, at the north end of which it stands; the second by the harbour, on which the canal opens; this side fronts the north, and, except the Seraglio, which forms the east salient angle, is entirely open. There is nothing towards the sea of Marmora, except a dead wall, the Turks trusting to the defences I have already mentioned, against an attack by sea. Neither do they seem more apprehensive on the third, or land side, for the ancient triple wall, which, by running across from the bottom of the harbour to the sea of Marmora, cuts the town from the country, is falling to decay. I found it to be near five miles in length, and the only part of it kept in repair, is the Castle of the Seven Towers, now converted into a state prison. English artillery would lay both it and the Seraglio in ashes in half an hour.

Besides the triangle I have just described, the populous towns of Pera, Galata, and Tophana, which run into each other on the opposite side of the harbour, are also included in what is commonly called Constantinople. Galata contains the dockyard and naval arsenal; Tophana the ordnance and foundry, and Pera is the residence of the Foreign Ministers. No part of these three towns have even a mud wall to defend them.

The Janizaries form the chief part of the standing army. They are still highly respected both by the court and the people, but have lost so much of their former consequence, that at the commencement of the present war, the Grand Vizir broke a whole chamber, or regiment of them, for showing a spirit of discontent. A severity, which though just, none of his predecessors, nor even the Sultans themselves dared ever attempt.

Abdoul Hamet, the Grand Signior, is upwards of sixty years old; but he possesses an engaging, benevolent countenance; and I like him the more from his attention to his wives; for although he may have as many of the most beautiful women as he pleases, yet he has attached himself to one. His happy favorite is now pregnant for the fourth time, and such is the attention paid her, that the vessels in the harbour are obliged to suspend the regular method of carrying on duty, and are not permitted to fire a musket, nor to strike the bell, nor even to give the word of command in a loud voice. By which you will perceive, that the invisible chains of the fair are as powerful in Turkey as in our blessed island; and that the rude Turk, and the generous Englishman, though different in manners, are alike sensible of the respect due to gentleness and beauty.