LETTER XXI.

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TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Leghorn, March 10th, 1788.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

On the 9th of February we sailed from the PyrÆus, but the next morning a violent gale rising up against us, we were obliged to take shelter in our old port at Idra. During the night the wind changed, and at day-break on the 11th we again got under way, and sailing along the coast of Mycene and Argos, the kingdoms of Agamemnon and Menelaus, reached Cape Angelo at sunset; and standing to the westward, we passed between Servi and the island of Venus; and thus, for the present, took leave of the Archipelago. We saw no remains of antiquity on that part of Peloponnesus which we have coasted.

At day-break on the 14th, we were in sight of Mount Ætna, but the wind not permitting us to fetch Messina, we stood towards Syracuse, and in the evening tacked near the little island of Ortygia, which furnished the poets, with the fable of Alpheus and Arethusa.

The next day was almost a calm, but at sunset a light breeze springing up in our favor, we entered the straits of Scylla and Charybdis, and anchored at Messina on the 16th. Here we intended to have performed our quarantine, but as it has been the custom at this place ever since the dreadful plague in 1743, not to receive vessels from any port actually infected; and a lying report being raised, that the plague was then raging in the environs of Smyrna, the Health Office refused to admit us, notwithstanding or bringing a clean bill of health. We therefore put to sea the following evening, and had scarce passed Charybdis, and got out of the straits, before we were attacked by a violent storm. We were now on a lee-shore, and the darkness of the night made our situation still more unpleasant. But at the moment we were most apprehensive, the wind favored us several points. The next morning the gale abated, and in the evening the wind became quite fair; there was, however, so little of it, that we were all this and the next day in sight of the burning island of Strombolo. In the night of the 19th, the breeze freshened, and carrying us 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 knots an hour, we saw Corsica soon after day-light on the 21st, and at five the same afternoon anchored in Leghorn roads. Lord Hervey, who has succeeded Sir Horace Mann, as Ambassador at Florence, happening to be at Leghorn, interested himself in our favor; in consequence of which our quarantine was only fifteen days, and we got prattick the day before yesterday.

The town is well fortified both by sea and land, and, on account of its advantageous situation for trade, and its being a free port, it is filled with merchants of every class and persuasion.

Corsica being in sight of Leghorn, it forms one of the passes that intercept the trade of the Mediterranean, and is consequently an excellent station for a squadron in time of war. The road, indeed, is open, and in winter dangerous; but this evil is, in some measure, remedied by two capacious moles, deep enough for trading vessels and small frigates. And by means of a canal which communicates with the Arno, it has water carriage even beyond Florence. I shall set out for that celebrated capital, as soon as I am a little collected after the voyage.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

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