MY DEAR FRIEND,

Lord Hervey and Captain Barnard, who have had the goodness to accompany us thus far, being about to leave us, I embrace this opportunity of sending you a continuation of my Journal; a form of writing, which, in conformity to your wishes, I shall always prefer whenever we are at sea.

Friday, September 28th.

At four o'clock, yesterday afternoon, we got under way, in order to pay the King of Naples a visit at Castello Mare. We were becalmed all night; and his Majesty, being apprized of our approach, came out to meet us at day-break, this morning. He was in a man of war brig of fourteen guns, attended by another of the same force. As soon as he was within about two miles, he got into his barge, and, there being but little wind, rowed on board us. We received him with a royal salute.

His Majesty went all over the ship, praised every part of her, seemed much pleased, and, with a most engaging condescension, thanked us for the honor we did him, and invited the principal persons on board to dine at his casino. On leaving the ship, he was again saluted with twenty-one guns.

Immediately afterwards his Majesty sent the officers a present of some very fine fish of his own catching, and in the afternoon rowed out again to take another view of the ship.

Castello Mare is the King's dockyard. Every thing is in high order; but it is entirely defenceless, and does not give an Englishman a very formidable idea of the Neapolitan Navy.

There is a village adjoining, above which the King has built a small palace, or casino, in a most charming situation, with a full view of the bay. Here his Majesty generally spends great part of the summer, and enjoys his favorite amusements of fishing and shooting, water parties, and ship-building.

The King of Naples is thirty-six years old, well made, and rather tall; lean enough to enjoy all his diversions, of a fair complexion, light hair, and an affable, open countenance.

Notwithstanding the heavy taxes requisite to the support of his navy and army, he is adored by his subjects, from the confidence he reposes in them, and because, in affairs of state, he is always their champion. But if he has sometimes suffered his partiality for the Queen to get the better of his judgment, his people are sensible that love always predominates in the most generous breasts.

Her Majesty is a year younger than her husband. She is sister to the Emperor of Germany, and to the Queen of France, and is accused of being extremely ambitious, which the King's easy temper, by giving her the ascendency in politics, rather increases. In her youth she must have been amazingly handsome; for notwithstanding her having eight children living, there is still something very striking about her; and her charms, it is said, are as powerful as ever on the King. There is no believing half the stories one hears; and when they tend to scandal or immorality, it is unjust to repeat any on mere report.

In the evening we got under way, and with a light breeze sailed out of the Bay of Naples, between Capria and Cape Gampenela.

September 29th.

Becalmed on the coast of Salerno. Nothing can be more beautifully picturesque. From the water's edge to the tops of the mountains, not a vacant spot is to be seen. The whole face of the country is covered with vines, trees, and houses, mixed together in the prettiest confusion imaginable.

In the afternoon we landed; but the people being suspicious of us, we could not gain admittance to any of their houses for a considerable time. At length a priest, after having carefully examined us from his miranda, opened his doors, treated us with great hospitality, and laughed at the ignorance of his people.

September 30th.

The Island of Capria is still in sight. Passed the Bay of Salerno, and the wind being light and contrary, brought to off Pestum. Went on shore to examine the ruins.

This ancient city, which flourished before the foundation of Rome, was destroyed by the Goths on the decline of the Roman Empire, and in their zeal for the christian religion, these fierce barbarians overturned every place of Pagan worship exposed to their ravages.

The arch of the east gate of the town is still standing. But of a multitude of beautiful temples, not a column of any one is left, except of three, which being composed of common stone, the barbarians were satisfied with destroying the roofs. Two of these are close to each other. The one has nine columns in front, and eighteen on each side; the other has six by fourteen. Each of the columns is six feet in diameter, and the space between them is eight feet. Both of these temples are of the Doric order. The third is of the Corinthian. They are all three noble edifices, and the columns, with a great part of the entablature, are still perfect. Signor Pitelli, a painter whom we brought from Naples, is busily employed in taking plans of them.

The walls of the city are above two miles in circumference, and eighteen feet thick, and are easily traced, as well as the mole, which the sea by an earthquake has left dry.

In the middle of the town there was a famous amphitheatre, one hundred and twenty-eight feet in length. Enough of the ground work is left to give a just idea of its construction; and the entrance, with arched passages on each side for the wild beasts, is still tolerably perfect.

October 1st.

Signor Pitelli not having finished the plans, and the wind continuing contrary, we carried him on shore again to-day. Here, in a farm-house, amidst these ruins of antiquity, we saw the modern method of drying figs, and making raisins. The operation is very simple. Expose the fruit to the sun for eight or ten days, then bake it, and when packing up, sprinkle a little flour between the layers.

Pestum was founded by one of those Grecian colonies, who, in the early ages, established themselves in Italy, whence this country derived the appellation of Magna Grecia.