The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) / A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest / Peak in North America

ILLUSTRATIONS

Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the upper or Harper Glacier
discharges into the lower or Muldrow Glacier (photogravure)	Frontispiece
	FACING PAGE
The author and Mr. H. P. Karstens	4

Tatum, Esaias, Karstens, Johnny, and Walter, at the Clearwater Camp	8

Striking across from the Tanana to the Kantishna	12

One of the abandoned mining towns in the Kantishna	14

Denali from the McKinley fork of the Kantishna River	16

Entering the range by Cache Creek	18

The base camp at about 4,000 feet on Cache Creek	20

Some heads of game killed at the base camp	22

The Muldrow Glacier. Karstens in the foreground	26

Ascension Day, 1913	30

Bridging a crevasse on the Muldrow Glacier	32

Hard work for dogs as well as men on the Muldrow Glacier	34

The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912	40

Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the shattered ridge	52

The shattered Northeast Ridge	56

Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge	60

A dangerous passage	64

The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the Parker Pass at 15,000 feet	72

Above all the range except Denali and Denali’s Wife	76

Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter the Grand Basin	82

First camp in the Grand Basin—16,000 feet, looking up	84

Second camp in the Grand Basin—looking down, 16,500	86

Third camp in the Grand Basin—17,000 feet, showing the shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake	88

The North Peak, 20,000 feet high	90

The South Peak from about 18,000 feet	94

The climbing-irons	98

Denali’s Wife from the summit of Denali (photogravure)	102

Robert Tatum raising the Stars and Stripes on the highest point in North America	104

The saying of the Te Deum	106

Beginning the descent of the ridge; looking down 4,000 feet upon the Muldrow Glacier	122

Johnny Fred, who kept the base camp and fed the dogs and would not touch the sugar	128

“Muk,” the author’s pet malamute	136

Approaching the range	164

Map showing route of the Stuck-Karstens expedition to the summit of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley)	End of volume

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